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R56 cylinder head rebuild

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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 05:47 PM
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shanksamillion
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cylinder head rebuild

What size pilot do I need for grinding valve seats? What are the angles? Is it a 3 angle for both intake and exhaust? Other than the pilot and cam timing kit is there anything else I need to do the job? I was told valve guides can't be replaced and that they are integrated into cylinder head. Is this true? Or can I order new guides and replace, if so where?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by shanksamillion
What size pilot do I need for grinding valve seats? What are the angles? Is it a 3 angle for both intake and exhaust? Other than the pilot and cam timing kit is there anything else I need to do the job? I was told valve guides can't be replaced and that they are integrated into cylinder head. Is this true? Or can I order new guides and replace, if so where?
Your in major luck. I just bought all the tools to do that.
You need a MM pilot.
You need the stones that the pilot is for.
You need the grinder or drill looking tool that drives the stones.
You need the valve grinding machine to grind the valves.
The valve job can be any angle you choose. But there are some specifics that work best best for these heads.
Valve guides can be replaced. But if there not worn. Don't touch them.
3 angles is best for these heads cause the seats and valves are so small.
However, if your good at doing this and have done it before you can get a 5-6 angle job on them.
As far as radiused seats. Good luck getting a cutter givin how close the roof of the port is to the seats. And it's really thin there so grinding material away from that area is not advised. The equipment total cost can be found for about 2 grand used. The stone diameter needed needs to be 1" diameter or less or you stand a serious chance of cutting into the sides of the chambers and exposing the cylinder head to the combustion flame therefore burning the head gasket. And if you sink the valve in the seats to far, that means the stem goes up into the rocker, then the rocker pushes on the lifter. There's only so much room. You can sink the valve to deep and the hydraulic lift will now become a solid lifter and or hold the valve open. SO !! If you've never done this job before, this should not be the first head you should learn on. The smaller ports make it harder to do.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 06:05 PM
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Sorry, we're it says MM PILOT, it should say
5 MM PILOT.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by SPRINTCARS
Sorry, we're it says MM PILOT, it should say 5 MM PILOT.
damn it !! Made another typo, when grinding the seat if the cutter is to big it hit the sides of the chamber exposing the head gasket to the combustion flame. Therefore increasing the chances of burning the head gasket significantly.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 07:41 PM
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Cool! So will 60°-45°-30° work? What is factory spec? I bought a 5 mm pilot last summer to do a standard 3 angle grind on an Acura. I got the drill and stones, a valve grinder, a nice lathe (won't need that for this job) a parts wash basin, a stand to set cyl head on when working, a valve spring compressor, and two big sheds full of tools. I might need a new stone or two. I do need to get cam timing kit though. Where did you get the valve stem seals? I might need a new valve or two. Where can I get the valves?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 07:54 PM
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We replace the exhaust valve guides on almost every head we rebuild
R56 Valve Guides


For Valves we use these
http://www.waymotorworks.com/mini-co...7-r58-r59.html

And you for sure will need cam timing tool kit as there is no way to do it right without the kit
http://www.waymotorworks.com/timing-...7-r58-r60.html
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 08:30 PM
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5mm does make it a bit more work. My machinist groaned a little when he saw the small valve stems.

As for the valve guides, I had ordered up exhaust valves and all the guides. After test-fitting the new guides, my machinist stayed with the existing ones. I didn't complain as it saved me a couple of hundred dollars I had already allotted, and he felt the original guides were a better fit most all the exhaust valves. Your motor may vary. I was just lucky (as long as you don't count me having to pull a head at 100k because of a burned valve).
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 08:41 PM
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If you go with new guides. Gotta get the reamer too. There on eBay. I got one I didn't need. 185k on mine. I'm leaving them. I'll deal with slightly loose. Little tight and hot from extra boost and running hard I can't. When you do that guide replacement. Sometimes all guides are the same. Such as centers. Although you think they would be. Your only talking 2 thou maybe. But it makes the cutter sit goofy in the seat. Then you gotta make it a circle again relative to the new guide. It doesn't happen all the time but it does happen. You just need to be aware and ready for it if it does.
 
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