R56 Driver's side Inner Tie Rod End Removal? (steering)
Driver's side Inner Tie Rod End Removal? (steering)
Wassup guys,
I have the subframe down on my 2008 Cooper S and have new Febi Bilstein tie rod assembies in hand. The passenger side inner tie rod end has plenty of access for a wrench, plenty of "flats" to grab onto with a 38mm open ended wrench
The driver's side tie rod end is recessed into the steering rack and if my memory serves me, none of those "flats" are accessible with a wrench.
Does anyone know if a generic inner tie rod end tool will work on the driver's side inner? Something like this:

Im afraid this tool wont access the flats either.
BTW I don't think its possible to get the end's off wit the subframe down as the entire steering rack is dangling and applying force is not effective nor likley good for the rack.
Your thoughts are appreciated.
I have the subframe down on my 2008 Cooper S and have new Febi Bilstein tie rod assembies in hand. The passenger side inner tie rod end has plenty of access for a wrench, plenty of "flats" to grab onto with a 38mm open ended wrench
The driver's side tie rod end is recessed into the steering rack and if my memory serves me, none of those "flats" are accessible with a wrench.

Does anyone know if a generic inner tie rod end tool will work on the driver's side inner? Something like this:

Im afraid this tool wont access the flats either.
BTW I don't think its possible to get the end's off wit the subframe down as the entire steering rack is dangling and applying force is not effective nor likley good for the rack.
Your thoughts are appreciated.
This is an R56? You removed the subframe without removing the steering rack? Normally you just undo the pinch bolt at the end of the steering column and drop the steering rack and the subframe together. I hope you didn't remove the subframe just to replace the inner tie rods. If the subframe already out why not just drop the steering rack to the floor so you have room to work on it? With it off the car you should be able to easily get a wrench on the inner tie rod.
Unfortunately this is the only picture I have but you might be able to see that there is definitely access for a wrench with the subframe out of the car.
Unfortunately this is the only picture I have but you might be able to see that there is definitely access for a wrench with the subframe out of the car.
Thanks for responding my bro.
Yes R56. 2008 S.
Nope I removed the subframe to change out the control arms, new bushings and new inner and outer ball joints and sway bar bushings. 140k miles on the car so I want to change out the tie rod assemblies as well.
Its my first time ever working on a Mini and I didnt consider letting the steering rack down...silly me!
I dont think a wrench has anything to grip onto on the drivers side inner tie rod end as it is recessed into the rack housing. I THINK. It certainly does not protrude out like the passenger side does.
BTW I dont know how the HELL anyone could get the front swaybar bushings off without dropping the subframe...I had a powerful impact gun on one of the 4 bolts and it didnt budge...had to use a 3 foot breaker bar...no way I could have done that with the subframe in place.
I also managed to break every plastic clip holding the front black plastic fender covers in place....haha...oh my oh my!
Yes R56. 2008 S.
Nope I removed the subframe to change out the control arms, new bushings and new inner and outer ball joints and sway bar bushings. 140k miles on the car so I want to change out the tie rod assemblies as well.
Its my first time ever working on a Mini and I didnt consider letting the steering rack down...silly me!
I dont think a wrench has anything to grip onto on the drivers side inner tie rod end as it is recessed into the rack housing. I THINK. It certainly does not protrude out like the passenger side does.
BTW I dont know how the HELL anyone could get the front swaybar bushings off without dropping the subframe...I had a powerful impact gun on one of the 4 bolts and it didnt budge...had to use a 3 foot breaker bar...no way I could have done that with the subframe in place.
I also managed to break every plastic clip holding the front black plastic fender covers in place....haha...oh my oh my!
I realize how idiotic a question this was when I R&Red the inners last night.
Each inner tie rod end will recess itself into the rack depending on how the steering wheel is turned. The DS (driver's side) much more so than the PS (passenger). So when I turned the steering wheel right, the DS the DS inner exposed its "flats" so I could get a grip on it.
Note however that without a specialized inner tie rod tool listed above you cannot tighten to specifications. I suppose you could use a crow's foot and make the mathematical adjustment...if you have a crow's foot.
Sorry to bother you guys.
Each inner tie rod end will recess itself into the rack depending on how the steering wheel is turned. The DS (driver's side) much more so than the PS (passenger). So when I turned the steering wheel right, the DS the DS inner exposed its "flats" so I could get a grip on it. Note however that without a specialized inner tie rod tool listed above you cannot tighten to specifications. I suppose you could use a crow's foot and make the mathematical adjustment...if you have a crow's foot.
Sorry to bother you guys.
Hey v10climber,
When you drop the subframe how far do you drop the frame before you reach up and in to disconnect the 3 connectors from the electric rack before your drop the entire frame?
In the pic you posted I see some wires coming out of the rack....I never released the pinch bolt or tie rod ends so the steering rack was still connected to the car and hanging from the pinch bolt and tie rod ends when I dropped the subframe. I think I may have damaged one of the connectors. I need to drop it again and check and want to know your technique.
I am getting the yellow brake light and DSC light error. I pulled codes and got a bunch of faults.
When you drop the subframe how far do you drop the frame before you reach up and in to disconnect the 3 connectors from the electric rack before your drop the entire frame?
In the pic you posted I see some wires coming out of the rack....I never released the pinch bolt or tie rod ends so the steering rack was still connected to the car and hanging from the pinch bolt and tie rod ends when I dropped the subframe. I think I may have damaged one of the connectors. I need to drop it again and check and want to know your technique.
I am getting the yellow brake light and DSC light error. I pulled codes and got a bunch of faults.
Hey v10climber,
When you drop the subframe how far do you drop the frame before you reach up and in to disconnect the 3 connectors from the electric rack before your drop the entire frame?
In the pic you posted I see some wires coming out of the rack....I never released the pinch bolt or tie rod ends so the steering rack was still connected to the car and hanging from the pinch bolt and tie rod ends when I dropped the subframe. I think I may have damaged one of the connectors. I need to drop it again and check and want to know your technique.
I am getting the yellow brake light and DSC light error. I pulled codes and got a bunch of faults.
When you drop the subframe how far do you drop the frame before you reach up and in to disconnect the 3 connectors from the electric rack before your drop the entire frame?
In the pic you posted I see some wires coming out of the rack....I never released the pinch bolt or tie rod ends so the steering rack was still connected to the car and hanging from the pinch bolt and tie rod ends when I dropped the subframe. I think I may have damaged one of the connectors. I need to drop it again and check and want to know your technique.
I am getting the yellow brake light and DSC light error. I pulled codes and got a bunch of faults.
Also, keep in mind you probably had to disconnect the brake sensor and wheel speed sensors to drop the subframe so make sure you connected those back up properly. 2 connectors in the drivers side wheel well and one in the passenger side. That could be where your faults are.
You can reach the steering rack connectors from inside the engine bay. No dropping the rack required. Make sure you disconnect the battery as one of them (I forget which) seems to be constantly powered so you'll throw some sparks if you're not careful.
Also, keep in mind you probably had to disconnect the brake sensor and wheel speed sensors to drop the subframe so make sure you connected those back up properly. 2 connectors in the drivers side wheel well and one in the passenger side. That could be where your faults are.
Also, keep in mind you probably had to disconnect the brake sensor and wheel speed sensors to drop the subframe so make sure you connected those back up properly. 2 connectors in the drivers side wheel well and one in the passenger side. That could be where your faults are.
V10Climber,
I used the AutoEnginuity version 13 (ST06) with Mini Extension (for the first time) and pulled the codes.
- DSC faults: Steering Sensor, Adjustment Error (5E34) and DSC Interface: SZL/LWS Signal Error (5DFB)
- Steering Column Module (SZL): 9E28 Control Unit - Internal Fault
- Electric Power Steering (EPS): 6111 EPS Steering Wheel Angle
- Enhanced Powertrain CAN: Unknown codes 2783,2777, 277F, 2773
This implies something is up with the electric steering rather than the wheel speed sensor no?
I'm gonna check the connections again for sure. I know that the tiny teeny weeny
plastic clip that engages the the large connector into the steering rack broke.
I hope I didnt stretch the wires in the process.I will disconnect the battery and check for strong connections again throughout.
This is what happens when a chick is distracting you while you work! uh!
Thanks so much for your support v10.
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Yeah it does sound like something more related to the steering angle sensor than a wheel speed sensor. Maybe when the rack was hanging by the pinch bolt it was pulling on the steering shaft and messed up the steering angle sensor? I believe there is a way to "recalibrate" the sensor somehow. Something like jack the car up and turn it on and turn the wheel all the way one way then the other a few times. I'm sure a search on the forum would turn up something helpful.
Unfortunately I don't see a steering angle sensor on realOEM. It's probably integrated into the switch unit on the steering column? Part #61319253769
Unfortunately I don't see a steering angle sensor on realOEM. It's probably integrated into the switch unit on the steering column? Part #61319253769
Oh I know its was pulling on the steering shaft. Perhaps its is unplugged from inside the steering wheel?
**** I hope I didnt break the sensor. Its only $625!
#1 in image.

I will check for a recalibration method. But before that I will make sure the SOB is plugged in.
Thanks v10.
**** I hope I didnt break the sensor. Its only $625!
#1 in image.

I will check for a recalibration method. But before that I will make sure the SOB is plugged in.
Thanks v10.
Last edited by Lex2008; Dec 18, 2014 at 11:09 AM.
V10,
Do you know where I could find out which fuse corresponds to the steering wheel angle sensor?
Id like to rule out a blown fuse or relay and then test for continuity from the 3 small connectors into the steering rack and make sure the connections are good before I try to diagnose the angle sensor itself.
Thanks,
a
Do you know where I could find out which fuse corresponds to the steering wheel angle sensor?
Id like to rule out a blown fuse or relay and then test for continuity from the 3 small connectors into the steering rack and make sure the connections are good before I try to diagnose the angle sensor itself.
Thanks,
a
Thanks, its right here for that part number listed above, but you need to know the options, like rain sensor . About ~391 right now.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/61319253769/ES2217858/
Thanks
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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