It's my understanding the later builds (2011 and beyond) MINI Cooper S's are more reliable. Is there a certain production date (month/year) that is recommended? How easy are these guys to perform your own maintenance. I like to be able to change my own oil/filter as well as spark plugs, etc.. when the time comes.

Finally, is there anything I need to look out for? I had a early model 2005 build R53 and was hit with the power steering failure as well as mushroom'd shock towers. I'd love to know I'm making a good decision if I find a 2011/2012.

Thank you!

 

Am sure others will chime in, I think '11 was the beginning of the n18 engine. They are supposed to be more reliable than the n14 engine. Time will tell as they are only a couple years on the road. I have a '12 MCS, so far has been a rock after a couple of cross country trips. Normal maintenance on these is pretty much the same process as any other Mini..

 

Appreciate you chiming in. Is there a build date to know if you're looking at an N14 or N18, or are all 2011+ N18 engines?

Thanks again.

 

The 2011 - 2013 MINI Cooper S models have the N18 engine. The exception is the JCW, it used the N14 engine through 2012.

 

If you find a car that you like, plug the VIN in here and it will tell you the engine type: http://www.bmwarchive.org/vin/bmw-vin-decoder.html

 

2010 n14S just under 50,000 miles, no real problems. It just had the HPFP (high pressure fuel pump) replaced yesterday, covered by MINI even though I'm a year out of warranty. They did charge me a 1\2 hour labor to remove/replace the JCW strut brace and the oil catch can. (Aftermarket parts, not covered by MINI)

That's ok, $63 instead of $500...

I wouldn't hesatate buying a late model N14 car.

 

Oops, someone beat me to the BMW decoder..

 

hey we're on the same wavelength!

 

LOL, I posted the decoder. Then when the page refreshed, saw you beat me too it so I edited my post. Dang..

 

My 2011 MCS N18 6 manual has 31k, nothing wrong that the factory warranty hasn't covered so far. As far as I have researched, the N18 seems to be more reliable, and has not shown itself to be an oil-ingesting, timing-chain blowing, parts-eating engine. And I do run mine quite hard at times. The oil change can be a messy affair, and the filter housing itself is not especially easy to get at. Move the coolant surge tank out of the way, and it's still a bit hard to get at without the proper socket and extension. Once you have it all figured out, it becomes easier. Spark plug changes are no real issue, as long as you take your time, and follow the write-ups here. I am LOVING my car so far, and I would not hesitate to recommend it to someone with some mechanical experience looking for a serious bang-for-the-buck little hot rod, with handling that is exceptional. That being said, Mini's are not Honda or Toyota-like as far as maintenance goes. You really need to stay on top of these Mini's, or you will not likely be a happy Mini owner. 5000 mile oil changes are a GREAT idea, even if you use Mobil 1 0w40, as I do. I burn through about 1/2 quart in 5000 miles, so far. Check you oil level frequently, and KNOW what you are looking at on the dipstick. I will burn through tires in 10-12k, if my current pace keeps up. Keep in mind that this is a high-performance car, and not your average, everyday grocery-getter. Mods are not cheap, but give fantastic results. The greatest thing EVER about owning a Mini? You are not likely to end up at a stoplight with another "jelly-bean" car just like yours next to you! I just love seeing 2 Honda Accords next to each other, or next to another jelly-bean, and both are the same color, same everything! I like to be different. And when/if you get next to another Mini at a stoplight, you can exchange smiles and thumbs-up! We know what the Mini is...other jelly-bean drivers are pretty much clueless!

 

Thanks for sharing. I'm pretty religious with my oil changes (I currently own a German car). I miss my old R53 and loved the thrill of pushing it around the back roads near my home. If it were a bit more reliable, I would have kept it longer. Hoping the 11-12 R56s are more reliable for me.

 

The vin decoder is a great resource to find information on a car. I just went through the same process and ended up settling on an 2011 MCS N18. The N18 showed up on the dealer "spec" list so that was an easy thing to identify for me, but I used the vin decoder on almost all the cars that I looked at - even if I didn't entertain the idea of buying the car. I used a slightly different vin site so I'll link it here for easy access for you

http://www.bmwarchiv.de/vin/bmw-vin-decoder.html

 

2012 MCS here with ~29k miles that has been rock-solid except for a service bulletin / recall (coolant temp sensor), warranty repairs (thermostat, squeaky moonroof, oil pump solenoid / DME harness) and regular service (oil change every 7500 miles, tire rotation, etc.)

I did toss the run-flats at ~20k miles and put proper tires (Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3) on the vehicle which has made a substantial change in the ride and performance.

Unsure what longer term use bodes for this vintage but I would not hesitate recommend purchasing one that has been loved and well cared.

Good luck in your search!

 

2011 R56 MCS with 43k and I haven't had any non-recall related issues other than a leaking water pump. Stay on top of the fluid levels and scheduled maintenance and you will be fine. I change the oil every 5k and will say that after the recall to address the oil pump solenoid, oil changes got a bit harder due to a relocation/addition of hoses.

Although still young, mine still runs like the day it came off the showroom floor.

 

2012 MCS here with 42k miles.
Had the service bulletin / recall (coolant temp sensor), warranty repairs (thermostat, oil pump solenoid / DME harness) done and the passenger vanity mirror/visor replaced.

Now some of the interior lights are not working.

 

How do you handle flats now that you're no longer on runflats? AAA to nearest garage and wait for a new tire to be put on?

 

My suggestion is to have a $25 cigarette lighter air pump in the car along with a can of Fix-A-Flat. The Fix-A-Flat should be your last resort.

 

I store a can of slime in the MCS (and C4S) but I have no intention to use it and instead prefer to use AAA (extended) for a flatbed to the most appropriate place for repair / replacement.

 

[quote=Xymox;4013869]
The same way you should plan to handle RFT flats - the range of 50 miles and getting stranded for a few days waiting for a replacement hard to find over-priced tire is not much of a comfort.

I always carry a (1) repair kit, and a (2) DynPlug in all my cars that don't have a full sized spare:

http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/...nce+and+Safety

 

Actually, HPFP is under extended MINI warranty of 10 years or 120K miles:
http://www.*********************/forums/attachments/cooper-s/682d1281729299-r56-high-pressure-fuel-pump-warranty-extension-r56-high-pressure-fuel-pump.jpg

(this forum stubbornly replaced _Motoringalience.com_ with ***)


I would NEVER advise a friend to buy an N14 engine car.
Between excessive carbon deposits on intake valves, occasionally self-destructing exhaust valves on cylinder 4, and numerous oil leaks (turbo oil line, oil filter housing, valve cover PCV, etc) end 60K disposable engine timing chain, that engine is an embarrassment to the MINI brand.

This is coming from a guy who had all of the above, and DIY swapped N14s with a new one from the factory (cyl 4 exhaust valve disintegrated at 56K miles).

YMMV,
a