R56 Timing Chain has 126k miles
Timing Chain has 126k miles
I'm trying to decide if I should replace my timing chain, water pump, etc. before or after the holidays. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
-2009 S - original owner
-126,000 miles - my commute is 72 miles per day, mostly at about 75 mph
-oil changes at 5,000 miles, with regular top-ups between changes
-I don't drive it hard - no track days
-The original timing chain, guides, water pump, etc. still hard at work
-I just measured the chain slack and it's at 68mm. I put in the longer tensioner. The original tensioner was replaced under warranty at about 20k due to the death rattle.
-There is more noise than I'd like, but there is no death rattle
-I just replaced the thermostat housing, replaced the valve cover at about 115k, still on the original turbo oil line
The family needs to take a trip over the holidays, and I'm thinking that I should go through and replace the timing chain "kit" (including the sprockets, crank seal, guide rails, etc), water pump, friction wheel, serpentine belt, and serpentine belt tensioner now. Am I living on borrowed time?!
-2009 S - original owner
-126,000 miles - my commute is 72 miles per day, mostly at about 75 mph
-oil changes at 5,000 miles, with regular top-ups between changes
-I don't drive it hard - no track days
-The original timing chain, guides, water pump, etc. still hard at work
-I just measured the chain slack and it's at 68mm. I put in the longer tensioner. The original tensioner was replaced under warranty at about 20k due to the death rattle.
-There is more noise than I'd like, but there is no death rattle
-I just replaced the thermostat housing, replaced the valve cover at about 115k, still on the original turbo oil line
The family needs to take a trip over the holidays, and I'm thinking that I should go through and replace the timing chain "kit" (including the sprockets, crank seal, guide rails, etc), water pump, friction wheel, serpentine belt, and serpentine belt tensioner now. Am I living on borrowed time?!
I'm trying to decide if I should replace my timing chain, water pump, etc. before or after the holidays. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
-2009 S - original owner
-126,000 miles - my commute is 72 miles per day, mostly at about 75 mph
-oil changes at 5,000 miles, with regular top-ups between changes
-I don't drive it hard - no track days
-The original timing chain, guides, water pump, etc. still hard at work
-I just measured the chain slack and it's at 68mm. I put in the longer tensioner. The original tensioner was replaced under warranty at about 20k due to the death rattle.
-There is more noise than I'd like, but there is no death rattle
-I just replaced the thermostat housing, replaced the valve cover at about 115k, still on the original turbo oil line
The family needs to take a trip over the holidays, and I'm thinking that I should go through and replace the timing chain "kit" (including the sprockets, crank seal, guide rails, etc), water pump, friction wheel, serpentine belt, and serpentine belt tensioner now. Am I living on borrowed time?!
-2009 S - original owner
-126,000 miles - my commute is 72 miles per day, mostly at about 75 mph
-oil changes at 5,000 miles, with regular top-ups between changes
-I don't drive it hard - no track days
-The original timing chain, guides, water pump, etc. still hard at work
-I just measured the chain slack and it's at 68mm. I put in the longer tensioner. The original tensioner was replaced under warranty at about 20k due to the death rattle.
-There is more noise than I'd like, but there is no death rattle
-I just replaced the thermostat housing, replaced the valve cover at about 115k, still on the original turbo oil line
The family needs to take a trip over the holidays, and I'm thinking that I should go through and replace the timing chain "kit" (including the sprockets, crank seal, guide rails, etc), water pump, friction wheel, serpentine belt, and serpentine belt tensioner now. Am I living on borrowed time?!
Your preventative maintenance has definitely helped the chain and guides last this long, though - the 5k oil changes and tensioner replacement are key.
It doesn't cost much to change your oil ($25 Mobil 1 Walmart/oil filter OEM $9) these days especially if you do it yourself. I have a marine pump that sucks all the oil through the oil dip stick tube into a storage container that holds up to 6 quarts.
Cheap insurance.
^^^^
It doesn't cost much to change your oil ($25 Mobil 1 Walmart/oil filter OEM $9) these days especially if you do it yourself. I have a marine pump that sucks all the oil through the oil dip stick tube into a storage container that holds up to 6 quarts.
Cheap insurance.
It doesn't cost much to change your oil ($25 Mobil 1 Walmart/oil filter OEM $9) these days especially if you do it yourself. I have a marine pump that sucks all the oil through the oil dip stick tube into a storage container that holds up to 6 quarts.
Cheap insurance.
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5k oil changes and only 68mm deflection would make me keep going. I see no reason to replace anything, unless it makes you feel better. That being said, I feel better when I can't quite get to 5000 miles, and change my oil and filter just because it's close! My Mini should last for a long time, and whoever buys it used someday will get one sweet little "babied" car!
More noise than normal? That might concern me some. But knowing that direct-injection is noisy, no worries! Just maybe "you", looking for problems? I know that I do NOT like the direct-injection noise, but have come to accept it as normal.
Decided to make the change
Thanks for all the input. I decided to make the change. I had my indy BMW/MINI mechanic listen to it and he said that the timing chain was making more noise than it should but it didn't sound horrible. I decided to play it safe.
I have no idea if changing the oil every 5k helps with the timing chain, but there is no way that I'm ever going much longer than that before changing my oil....I intend to keep this car for awhile.
I have no idea if changing the oil every 5k helps with the timing chain, but there is no way that I'm ever going much longer than that before changing my oil....I intend to keep this car for awhile.
I had planned on doing it (bought the tools), but after talking to Chad at Detroit Tuned I decided that I'd play it safe and have it done professionally. I'll post the costs and results when it's done.
^^^^
It doesn't cost much to change your oil ($25 Mobil 1 Walmart/oil filter OEM $9) these days especially if you do it yourself. I have a marine pump that sucks all the oil through the oil dip stick tube into a storage container that holds up to 6 quarts.
Cheap insurance.
It doesn't cost much to change your oil ($25 Mobil 1 Walmart/oil filter OEM $9) these days especially if you do it yourself. I have a marine pump that sucks all the oil through the oil dip stick tube into a storage container that holds up to 6 quarts.
Cheap insurance.
I believe the N18 had the updated timing chain cassette and tensioner to adress the horrible noise and possible timing jumping.
We've done a couple here at the shop and both were N14 engines.
I tell ya, when the timing jumps, it ain't pretty....or cheap.
We've done a couple here at the shop and both were N14 engines.
I tell ya, when the timing jumps, it ain't pretty....or cheap.
Grade to hear that.
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