After many trips to the dealer and getting the run-around I decided to tackle this job myself. But before starting I wanted to be sure that it was the fuel pump before I spent $200 on a new one.

My problems only occurred after the car had been sitting for 3-4 hours. Long enough to cool off. Like in the morning, or when leaving work. It would barely start and stall a couple of times before finally running rough for a minute or so and work its way up to normal idle. The dealer would give me the run-around every time claiming that it wasn't a problem with the HPFP. They told me EVERYTIME that it was a carbon build-up issue. For those of you that don't know, that is a easy $700 for them every time, regardless if that was the problem. That is at the top of their checklist.

Example:

Mini Cooper S R56 Checklist For Dealership

1. Suggest Carbon Cleaning Issue (Easy $700)
2. Look for anything else to avoid replacing their fuel pump for free!


Yes that's right free. Because my Mini fell within the restrictions for getting the extended warranty. (10 years/120,000 miles) and I qualified. But getting them to diagnose and replace it seemed like it was going to require an act of God! So, like most things, if you want it done right, do it yourself went through my mind.

So I have a bluetooth obd2 connector like this


and the torque app that I use everyday. I started monitoring fuel rail pressure.

Using http://www.brrperformance.com/blog/?p=2420 I determined that the desired pressure at idle is 50 BAR or 725.19 PSI. When starting mine I was getting 120 PSI every time. I did this for weeks. Testing it every time after it had been sitting for 3-4 hours and I knew the problems were going to occur. That left me with only one conclusion, as it should have the dealership if they cared at all about their customers! The HPFP was failing! After that it was all easy work. I purchased mine for $200 plus shipping from

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2008-C...Pump/ES240641/

and used a great how-to here

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-r56-jcw.html

I made easy work of it. Now it runs like new and I didn't have to get the run-around at the stealership anymore.

Hope this helps everyone else that is tired of getting the run-around at the stealership and doesn't mind getting their hands a little dirty and doing it themselves.

 

Interesting. When mine was sputtering, took it to the dealership. They took it in for a few minutes of diagnosing. Came back and said it was HPFP (as I suspected) and that it was covered under warranty (which I knew). Replaced it while I waited. Easy-peasy.

 

That is interesting! It must be a dealership issue. I dont want to name names, but lets just say I wont be going back to a certain dealership in Arlington,TX ever again!



PS There is only one Mini dealership in arlington.

 

My 2009 Clubman S had the same symptoms (would stumble and stall when cold or sitting for about 2 hours or longer) but would also throw a check engine light. So my dealership in Camarillo, CA also said I need to clean the intake valves, and I explained I just had them cleaned at a Mini specialist shop (for a lot less than the dealership charges). The dealership did a diagnosis and could not find anything wrong, good fuel pressure, no specific HPFP codes, BUT they replaced the HPFP on good faith and the car's been running perfect ever since.

I did not realize I could use Torque to monitor fuel pressure, good info. If I realized that I would have taken a screenshot, photo or video in to the dealership and used it as evidence. They've been good about using video on other intermittent issues like the dual sunroofs not opening or closing properly and also timing chain rattle.

 

Yeah. The torque app is useful for alot of the info on the mini. I actually used it to test the lift pump(in tank pump) before i tested the HPFP. It sounds to me like every dealership is different and that you just got lucky with a good one. I presented my dealership with all of my info but they dismissed it and wanted their "technicians" to look at it. I previously posted how i did the carbon cleaning myself. So knowing that had been done I knew better than to let them talk me into it.

 

Sadly, this story is the typical MINI dealership practice. It's exactly what happened to me and many, many others (search the forum and you'll see). MINI's corrupt corporate directive (yes, I said that) is to try to charge owners for a carbon cleaning (first) to cover the cost of the HPFP. Frankly it's in bad faith and it's offensive. Glad the OP solved it.

 

No. No afilitiation to the dealer at all. I work in the oil field and do all of my own maintainence and repairs myself. I spend alot of time reading on this forum. Alot of useful info on here. Also alot of talk about some of the poor service at dealerships. Im not defending my dealership at all. Yeah they are all very courtious and professional but that dont mean squat if you are not helping me at all.

 

Hah. The part of my comment that you're responding to was meant to be directed to someone else (but it's since been deleted to avoid unnecessary conflict).

Yes, I understood your post and your position. Thanks for sharing it. Glad that you were able to resolve this, despite the dealership.

 

Glad you got it fixed and the DIY helped. Its a great DIY and very indepth.

 

I keep Torque running on an old cell phone mounted to my dash. I was on a road trip this summer when my HPFP died. I used torque to confirm that the pump was the problem and had the car towed to the nearest dealer (who had the part in stock) and was back on my way after an hour repair.

 

Installed in under an hour, impressive! Did Mini cover the cost of repair? Glad to hear some good news for a change.

 

I was impresses by the service. An hour after we rolled my car off the tow truck, I asked the service guy if the car would be ready the same day so I could make hotel plans. He said, "your car's ready. We're just washing it now." The repair was covered under warranty.

 

I suspect the hesitation on acceleration (on my 2007 R56) is the HPFP starting to fail, and also have Torque running on an old cell phone with an ELM327 blue tooth. But it does not want to show fuel pressure (Torque reports that parameter does not have data...). Is this only available on Torque Pro? (I have the free Torque app...)

 

Same place that gave me the user abuse crap when the wifes battery died, ended up getting a refund for the autozone battery I bought, free oil change, free battery registration and an apology from MINI.

The new Service Manager just got his promotion, so hopefully things will improve there, since I bought both my cars from them.

 

I had the one in Baltimore tell me the boost plausible code was showing up because of the 3700 dollar valve body in the Trans was leaking thru a wire harness. And using the wires to "wick" vertically up to the ECU. I Didn't know fluids can "wick" up a wire vertically. And they also said it only does it while running. That why there's never oil on the ground or being sprayed around that area. They really do think people are that stupid.

 

That is a known problem. It's a solenoid valve for engine oil. They leak slowly and wick up the wiring harness. Take a look under your car. It will be obvious.

 

It's not engine. There's not a valve in the engine with Trans fluid. There were no leaks when they tried to tell me this issue. I know my way around the car. If there was any kind of leak for anything I would have known. And fixed it.

 

Unplug the connector to the tranny and you'll see oil inside the plug. Won't see anything on the outside of tranny.

 

Ok

 

I had the exact same problem that the OP described in 2008. I live 100 miles from the dealer, so I put up with it until one morning it wouldn't start at all, it just sputtered weakly (like it wasn't getting any fuel, DOH). Called the North Scottsdale dealer, they arranged a flatbed tow the next morning. The OP got the typical sdealer routine. I remember some dealers trying to make owners pay for the HPFO when it failed because they put in "bad gas". They claimed to have "tested" the gas and it had too much ethanol in it or some bullcrap. Can you imagine? If you have to basically cheat people out of money a couple thousand at a time how can you stay in business? I'd never go back there for any reason.

 

Maybe we are talking about something different, but as I said there's a solenoid valve in the engine that controls oil flow. You will see that oil wicks up its wiring harness. It can eventually screw with the DME.