R56 layman explanations of upgrades
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1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
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layman explanations of upgrades
hi there,
I am recent to getting a mini and for the first time I would like to do some upgrades for the car. the problem is I don't really know much about cars in general so while I can see what people are doing, it's like a different language.
I was wondering if some of y'all would be interested in explaining what the upgrade actually does to the car and what kind of gains they yield, or if the upgrade is really worth it. maybe which ones are a good one to get would be cool too.
I've done plenty of reading over the forum but I haven't come across much in layman terms.
the ones that I'd love explaining on are:
Cold Air Intake
Cat back system
intercoolers(FMIC?)
blow off valve
sway bars
difference between exhaust systems
I am recent to getting a mini and for the first time I would like to do some upgrades for the car. the problem is I don't really know much about cars in general so while I can see what people are doing, it's like a different language.
I was wondering if some of y'all would be interested in explaining what the upgrade actually does to the car and what kind of gains they yield, or if the upgrade is really worth it. maybe which ones are a good one to get would be cool too.
I've done plenty of reading over the forum but I haven't come across much in layman terms.
the ones that I'd love explaining on are:
Cold Air Intake
Cat back system
intercoolers(FMIC?)
blow off valve
sway bars
difference between exhaust systems
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 152
Likes: 2
I'll do my best.
Cold air intake-Changes the intake to higher flowing capacity so your car will be more able to suck in needed air. It's mostly just a noise difference in our cars. If you get one you will be able to hear the BOV better. But performance gains are minimal if at all until you get pretty extreme.
Catback exhaust- Bigger diameter exhaust with less restrictive muffler. Getting exhast out more efficiently allows engine to work better, allows turbo to spoll faster. However like the cold air intake, in our cars it's more of a noise maker. Unless you are changing the downpipe to make your exhaust open from the turbo back, your only getting minimal gains.
Blow off valve- my experience is with the newer N18 motors which actually use a recirculating valve. When you build bost from the turbo you are building excess pressure in your intake manifold, and therefore in your cylinder's. When you let off the gas the excess pressure needs to go somewhere, so it is routed out the BOV (or recirculating valve). It's more of a device to protect your engine and doesn't give you any horsepower. Some people will argue that an aftermarket one can allow your turbo to spool faster. Unless your pushing much higher than stock boost, you really don't worry about upgrading this.
Sway bar- no personal experience, someone else can explain.
Cold air intake-Changes the intake to higher flowing capacity so your car will be more able to suck in needed air. It's mostly just a noise difference in our cars. If you get one you will be able to hear the BOV better. But performance gains are minimal if at all until you get pretty extreme.
Catback exhaust- Bigger diameter exhaust with less restrictive muffler. Getting exhast out more efficiently allows engine to work better, allows turbo to spoll faster. However like the cold air intake, in our cars it's more of a noise maker. Unless you are changing the downpipe to make your exhaust open from the turbo back, your only getting minimal gains.
Blow off valve- my experience is with the newer N18 motors which actually use a recirculating valve. When you build bost from the turbo you are building excess pressure in your intake manifold, and therefore in your cylinder's. When you let off the gas the excess pressure needs to go somewhere, so it is routed out the BOV (or recirculating valve). It's more of a device to protect your engine and doesn't give you any horsepower. Some people will argue that an aftermarket one can allow your turbo to spool faster. Unless your pushing much higher than stock boost, you really don't worry about upgrading this.
Sway bar- no personal experience, someone else can explain.
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
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but with almost every mini I see on here has a cai. I was looking at the AEM cai and the website gains say up to 14 hp @5600 rpm.
also, the additions I plan on getting at the moment in this order are:
cai, manic tune, exhaust, and fmic(though I'm insure between the last two). is there something you would suggest getting over any of those? part of this is a learning experiance for me to understand how care work and to get used to working on them. I'm hoping to do it all myself.
also, the additions I plan on getting at the moment in this order are:
cai, manic tune, exhaust, and fmic(though I'm insure between the last two). is there something you would suggest getting over any of those? part of this is a learning experiance for me to understand how care work and to get used to working on them. I'm hoping to do it all myself.
hi there,
I am recent to getting a mini and for the first time I would like to do some upgrades for the car. the problem is I don't really know much about cars in general so while I can see what people are doing, it's like a different language.
I was wondering if some of y'all would be interested in explaining what the upgrade actually does to the car and what kind of gains they yield, or if the upgrade is really worth it. maybe which ones are a good one to get would be cool too.
I've done plenty of reading over the forum but I haven't come across much in layman terms.
the ones that I'd love explaining on are:
Cold Air Intake
Cat back system
intercoolers(FMIC?)
blow off valve
sway bars
difference between exhaust systems
I am recent to getting a mini and for the first time I would like to do some upgrades for the car. the problem is I don't really know much about cars in general so while I can see what people are doing, it's like a different language.
I was wondering if some of y'all would be interested in explaining what the upgrade actually does to the car and what kind of gains they yield, or if the upgrade is really worth it. maybe which ones are a good one to get would be cool too.
I've done plenty of reading over the forum but I haven't come across much in layman terms.
the ones that I'd love explaining on are:
Cold Air Intake
Cat back system
intercoolers(FMIC?)
blow off valve
sway bars
difference between exhaust systems
Drive the car for at least 3 months, then see what you want.
The S is sporty enough left well enough alone!!
3rd Gear
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 201
Likes: 1
From: Seattle, Wa.
Spend your $$$
but with almost every mini I see on here has a cai. I was looking at the AEM cai and the website gains say up to 14 hp @5600 rpm.
also, the additions I plan on getting at the moment in this order are:
cai, manic tune, exhaust, and fmic(though I'm insure between the last two). is there something you would suggest getting over any of those? part of this is a learning experiance for me to understand how care work and to get used to working on them. I'm hoping to do it all myself.
also, the additions I plan on getting at the moment in this order are:
cai, manic tune, exhaust, and fmic(though I'm insure between the last two). is there something you would suggest getting over any of those? part of this is a learning experiance for me to understand how care work and to get used to working on them. I'm hoping to do it all myself.
Moire, tell us about your car and your driving habits. What year and model is it, is it a daily driver, are you going to race it, etc.... If you are driving an older MINI, 2001-06/7 and it's an S model you will have a supercharger. Newer models will have a turbo charger. That will help with which mods to the engine people will suggest.
The CAI seem to have more effect on a naturally aspirated engine more so than on a forced air engine. But they sound really cool on our cars... but that's my opinion, I could be wrong.
The CAI seem to have more effect on a naturally aspirated engine more so than on a forced air engine. But they sound really cool on our cars... but that's my opinion, I could be wrong.
OVERDRIVE
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,233
Likes: 127
From: San Francisco
Regarding cold air intake...
In general, aftermarket intakes are designed to allow higher airflow than the original intake. They are also typically designed to allow a louder sportier sound (by less muffling of engine noise).
There are hot air intakes and cold air intakes. A hot air intake draws air from inside the engine compartment. It can be very simple, such as a free flowing cone filter sitting out in the open in the engine compartment. A cold air intake includes ductwork to draw air from outside the car (from the front of the car or hood scoop). They are generally more expensive because of the additional parts.
Colder, denser air produces more power, and in theory a cold air intake should have an advantage over a hot air intake. In practice, the air will still become heated by compression from the turbo, so the difference is mitigated between hot vs cold intake.
In general, aftermarket intakes are designed to allow higher airflow than the original intake. They are also typically designed to allow a louder sportier sound (by less muffling of engine noise).
There are hot air intakes and cold air intakes. A hot air intake draws air from inside the engine compartment. It can be very simple, such as a free flowing cone filter sitting out in the open in the engine compartment. A cold air intake includes ductwork to draw air from outside the car (from the front of the car or hood scoop). They are generally more expensive because of the additional parts.
Colder, denser air produces more power, and in theory a cold air intake should have an advantage over a hot air intake. In practice, the air will still become heated by compression from the turbo, so the difference is mitigated between hot vs cold intake.
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1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
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thanks for all the replies!
I am driving a 2011 Mini Cooper S. it is my only car I drive but I live within 5 miles from where I work. I almost always take the backroads wherever I go, for the fun of it. I often take joy rides. around round I drive pretty normal but I do really enjoy pushing the car to it's potential. it seems from driving it that it really has a lot more untapped power in it that I am hoping to unlock.
I am driving a 2011 Mini Cooper S. it is my only car I drive but I live within 5 miles from where I work. I almost always take the backroads wherever I go, for the fun of it. I often take joy rides. around round I drive pretty normal but I do really enjoy pushing the car to it's potential. it seems from driving it that it really has a lot more untapped power in it that I am hoping to unlock.
3rd Gear
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 201
Likes: 1
From: Seattle, Wa.
If you like to drive the twisties! Suspension, suspension, suspension! Peruse the for mini parts marketplace….Timing is everything! Parts are availabe… I working an another project… I have really nice Milltek Cat back Exhaust, that should coming off the car, within the month -- As soon as the new DP arrives -- and it will be for sale…
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,064
Likes: 15
From: Silly-con Valley
Note that ZERO horsepower does fit into "up to 14 HP"...
I'll try to tackle the sway bars one.. When the car leans in a turn, the wheel on the outside goes up, and the wheel on the inside goes down. A sway bar acts as a spring connecting the two wheels on one end of the car together, so the wheel being pushed up will tend to push the other wheel up as well, and the inside one being pushed down will tend to push the other one down.
It helps the car to lean less in the turns. That in turn can help the tires grip the road better. A larger-diameter bar acts as a stiffer spring, further limiting the body lean on that end of the car. One odd thing, though: The lean is reduced at the expense of extra loading on the outside tire. So the grip of the car improves overall, but the end with the stiffer bar does not improve as much as the other end. So it seems like the end you change gets worse...
Almost every car these days is set up to understeer--the front end will lose grip and the car won't want to turn. Putting a larger rear sway bar will help reduce that, and may make the car oversteer at times, where the rear of the car wants to "step out" and pass the front of the car... Which is fun if you are expecting it and can deal with it, but can be rather too exciting if you're not.
I echo the advice above about driving the car for a while before deciding what the car needs. I also suggest taking it to do a bunch of different things. Take it for a cruise, drive around some nice twisty roads, get to a drag-strip and see how fast you can pedal it down the 1320, head to a Cars and Coffee meet, find a local autocross group and take your car out among the cones.
Figure out what you like about the car, and what you don't like. Aim to improve the things you like, and to mitigate the things you don't like. But evaluate the car for what it is--don't take our word on what it needs!!
I'll try to tackle the sway bars one.. When the car leans in a turn, the wheel on the outside goes up, and the wheel on the inside goes down. A sway bar acts as a spring connecting the two wheels on one end of the car together, so the wheel being pushed up will tend to push the other wheel up as well, and the inside one being pushed down will tend to push the other one down.
It helps the car to lean less in the turns. That in turn can help the tires grip the road better. A larger-diameter bar acts as a stiffer spring, further limiting the body lean on that end of the car. One odd thing, though: The lean is reduced at the expense of extra loading on the outside tire. So the grip of the car improves overall, but the end with the stiffer bar does not improve as much as the other end. So it seems like the end you change gets worse...
Almost every car these days is set up to understeer--the front end will lose grip and the car won't want to turn. Putting a larger rear sway bar will help reduce that, and may make the car oversteer at times, where the rear of the car wants to "step out" and pass the front of the car... Which is fun if you are expecting it and can deal with it, but can be rather too exciting if you're not.
I echo the advice above about driving the car for a while before deciding what the car needs. I also suggest taking it to do a bunch of different things. Take it for a cruise, drive around some nice twisty roads, get to a drag-strip and see how fast you can pedal it down the 1320, head to a Cars and Coffee meet, find a local autocross group and take your car out among the cones.
Figure out what you like about the car, and what you don't like. Aim to improve the things you like, and to mitigate the things you don't like. But evaluate the car for what it is--don't take our word on what it needs!!
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 152
Likes: 2
but with almost every mini I see on here has a cai. I was looking at the AEM cai and the website gains say up to 14 hp @5600 rpm.
also, the additions I plan on getting at the moment in this order are:
cai, manic tune, exhaust, and fmic(though I'm insure between the last two). is there something you would suggest getting over any of those? part of this is a learning experiance for me to understand how care work and to get used to working on them. I'm hoping to do it all myself.
also, the additions I plan on getting at the moment in this order are:
cai, manic tune, exhaust, and fmic(though I'm insure between the last two). is there something you would suggest getting over any of those? part of this is a learning experiance for me to understand how care work and to get used to working on them. I'm hoping to do it all myself.
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,064
Likes: 15
From: Silly-con Valley
Oh, intercoolers:
Colder air is denser, warmer air is less dense. Dense air means you can add more fuel, burn it completely, and make more power.
The turbocharger on the S cars squeezes the air, compressing it. That also heats it up--and the turbo gets pretty hot because it has exhaust gases running through it as well. So it's a good idea to cool down the compressed air, and that's what the intercooler does. A particularly large one may add to the turbo lag (how long after putting your foot down it takes for the power to really build) but that would be pretty unusual.
An aftermarket cooler would be larger or more efficient than the stock one, or at least it should be if it is worthwhile. It can allow you to make a little more power, since the air will be cooler, but it can also allow you to change the turbocharger to one that makes more boost, or to change the tune (the computer control) to allow more boost to build.
Colder air is denser, warmer air is less dense. Dense air means you can add more fuel, burn it completely, and make more power.
The turbocharger on the S cars squeezes the air, compressing it. That also heats it up--and the turbo gets pretty hot because it has exhaust gases running through it as well. So it's a good idea to cool down the compressed air, and that's what the intercooler does. A particularly large one may add to the turbo lag (how long after putting your foot down it takes for the power to really build) but that would be pretty unusual.
An aftermarket cooler would be larger or more efficient than the stock one, or at least it should be if it is worthwhile. It can allow you to make a little more power, since the air will be cooler, but it can also allow you to change the turbocharger to one that makes more boost, or to change the tune (the computer control) to allow more boost to build.
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1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
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what fmic do you suggest on a budget?
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 37
From: Mission Viejo, CA
The Forge FMIC is a great buy and excellent quality, you really should get the tune after your CAI, FMIC, exhaust etc. The tune will be modified around whatever mods you have or don't have. I drove my Mini around for few months and decided my first mod would be the H-Sport 25.5mm rear sway bar which has three settings, soft, stiff and stiffer. Before the RSB when circling onto the freeway onramps my Mini felt like it was fighting with me to turn (understeer).
So I purchased the H-Sport 25.5mm RSB and used the middle setting and after that my Mini was turning more easily, now I can go faster around the same freeway onramps with less lean. Now I have more traction, it transformed into a car that had excellent cornering even at high speeds. There a drawback though, the rear end will be a bit stiffer so when you hit pot holes you'll feel it a bit more, it's not as bad as it sounds. The best money spent with a huge outcome, they run you about $200-$220. Cheaper compared to all other mods.
So I purchased the H-Sport 25.5mm RSB and used the middle setting and after that my Mini was turning more easily, now I can go faster around the same freeway onramps with less lean. Now I have more traction, it transformed into a car that had excellent cornering even at high speeds. There a drawback though, the rear end will be a bit stiffer so when you hit pot holes you'll feel it a bit more, it's not as bad as it sounds. The best money spent with a huge outcome, they run you about $200-$220. Cheaper compared to all other mods.
Does the bigger rsb make for a more "skippy" ride in the ***-end? I like oversteer, but I drive on rough roads. Just concerned that a larger rsb may lead to less control. Rotation is good, but not at the extreme.
Ok, here's my $0.02...
1.) Tires. The single biggest bang for your buck addition. All season tires don't do anything well, they do everything mediocre. And that's ok if you are like 99% of all American drivers. (because they are mediocre drivers at best) If you seriously like driving, and like to have fun, buy really good tires. If you live where it's cold, and it snows, buy another set of wheels and some real SNOW tires. Yes, you can probably exist with all season tires, but you really are just missing out... Let's not even talk about runflats... (ok, they suck... that's enough)
2.) Intercooler. The MINI's intercooler really is mini. It's tiny...
The hot turbo actually doesn't heat the intake air very much. The air is moving at fairly high speed, and isn't in contact with the turbo long enough to transfer much heat. It's the work of compression that heats the air, and it's a lot. Before I got my intercooler, I'd seen intake temps >100F more than ambient when romping on it. You can really feel the power loss. The engine just can't make the same power when the air is that hot. The ECU pulls timing, and adds more fuel in an effort to keep the engine alive. And even when you stop romping on it, intake temps took a long time for it to recover. With a larger intercooler, I don't think I've seen >20F above ambient, and recovery is very fast.
This doesn't mean an intercooler makes any power. But, it does allow the engine to make the most that it can, for far longer, and recover more quickly. (Yes, even a stock tune...)
3.) Suspension. In stock form, a MINI understeers. meaning you get to see what you are going to crash into...lol With oversteer, you crash backwards looking in the rearview mirror.
Too much of either is bad. Again for 99% of drivers understeer is much safer, more predictable, and what they have always known. That's why manufacturers build it in.
So, unless I'm doing an autocross when I want to rotate the car with the throttle and brakes, a neutral to a little understeer is what I want. I don't want what the factory gave me, which was a LOT of understeer, (push)... A RSB allows me to tune the car to get what I want and like. And I haven't even mentioned shocks and springs...
Digest the first part and I'll be back...
1.) Tires. The single biggest bang for your buck addition. All season tires don't do anything well, they do everything mediocre. And that's ok if you are like 99% of all American drivers. (because they are mediocre drivers at best) If you seriously like driving, and like to have fun, buy really good tires. If you live where it's cold, and it snows, buy another set of wheels and some real SNOW tires. Yes, you can probably exist with all season tires, but you really are just missing out... Let's not even talk about runflats... (ok, they suck... that's enough)
2.) Intercooler. The MINI's intercooler really is mini. It's tiny...
The hot turbo actually doesn't heat the intake air very much. The air is moving at fairly high speed, and isn't in contact with the turbo long enough to transfer much heat. It's the work of compression that heats the air, and it's a lot. Before I got my intercooler, I'd seen intake temps >100F more than ambient when romping on it. You can really feel the power loss. The engine just can't make the same power when the air is that hot. The ECU pulls timing, and adds more fuel in an effort to keep the engine alive. And even when you stop romping on it, intake temps took a long time for it to recover. With a larger intercooler, I don't think I've seen >20F above ambient, and recovery is very fast.
This doesn't mean an intercooler makes any power. But, it does allow the engine to make the most that it can, for far longer, and recover more quickly. (Yes, even a stock tune...)
3.) Suspension. In stock form, a MINI understeers. meaning you get to see what you are going to crash into...lol With oversteer, you crash backwards looking in the rearview mirror.
Too much of either is bad. Again for 99% of drivers understeer is much safer, more predictable, and what they have always known. That's why manufacturers build it in.
So, unless I'm doing an autocross when I want to rotate the car with the throttle and brakes, a neutral to a little understeer is what I want. I don't want what the factory gave me, which was a LOT of understeer, (push)... A RSB allows me to tune the car to get what I want and like. And I haven't even mentioned shocks and springs...
Digest the first part and I'll be back...
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,894
Likes: 8
From: Philly PA
NM "Torque Mount" aka "Motor Mounts".
What it does is prevent the engine from moving excessively in the engine bay. When you drive the car, and accelerate, the engine moves in the mounts before it transfers power to the wheels. By adding a stiffener (mount) you limit the range of motion and get a quicker response from the drivetrain. Power gets sent to the wheels sooner rather than wasting the energy to move the engine on its mount.
The NM mount goes around the factory mount rather than replace it. It only really "helps" under engine load (acceleration) rather than just being a stiff chunk of plastic that sends engine vibrations into the car.
While its not as "strong" as other mounts (BSH, Vibratechnics, Powerflex), its perfect for the person who just wants a little more performance, positive drivetrain engagement, and a mod that literally takes about 3 min to install.
As a owner of a stick shift N18 car, I say its a must. It eliminates the "rubber banding" of the engine swinging back and forth. I feel it makes driving the car easier in traffic or pulling away from a stop.
Installing a more "firm" mount delivers less rubber band action - but can lead to excessive vibration transferred into the passenger compartment. Picture a free foot massage at each stop light.
I added one as my first mod. Very much with it. ***** (5 stars) cost/install/results (its super easy to install)
I then added a rear sway bay SUPER worth it ***** (5 stars) cost/results **** (4 stars) for the install - takes 2 hours, not hard, but more complex then other cars
I then added my own K&N open air intake **** (4 stars) results, I like the sound, but I don't get "super power" ***** (5 stars) cost/install ease. ($40).
No way would I *ever* buy an over priced version of this, sorry folks, its an air cleaner. All your paying for is a name, and a metal bracket. For me, the big plus is hearing the intake noise, and blow off.
What it does is prevent the engine from moving excessively in the engine bay. When you drive the car, and accelerate, the engine moves in the mounts before it transfers power to the wheels. By adding a stiffener (mount) you limit the range of motion and get a quicker response from the drivetrain. Power gets sent to the wheels sooner rather than wasting the energy to move the engine on its mount.
The NM mount goes around the factory mount rather than replace it. It only really "helps" under engine load (acceleration) rather than just being a stiff chunk of plastic that sends engine vibrations into the car.
While its not as "strong" as other mounts (BSH, Vibratechnics, Powerflex), its perfect for the person who just wants a little more performance, positive drivetrain engagement, and a mod that literally takes about 3 min to install.
As a owner of a stick shift N18 car, I say its a must. It eliminates the "rubber banding" of the engine swinging back and forth. I feel it makes driving the car easier in traffic or pulling away from a stop.
Installing a more "firm" mount delivers less rubber band action - but can lead to excessive vibration transferred into the passenger compartment. Picture a free foot massage at each stop light.
I added one as my first mod. Very much with it. ***** (5 stars) cost/install/results (its super easy to install)
I then added a rear sway bay SUPER worth it ***** (5 stars) cost/results **** (4 stars) for the install - takes 2 hours, not hard, but more complex then other cars
I then added my own K&N open air intake **** (4 stars) results, I like the sound, but I don't get "super power" ***** (5 stars) cost/install ease. ($40).
No way would I *ever* buy an over priced version of this, sorry folks, its an air cleaner. All your paying for is a name, and a metal bracket. For me, the big plus is hearing the intake noise, and blow off.
Last edited by danjreed; Sep 7, 2014 at 05:59 AM.
3rd Gear
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 201
Likes: 1
When I dynoed my car in July, for S&G I ran with the stock airbox and then my Alta. Now with all my other mods, the difference was 7whp.......maybe my airbox was made of a Friday, but that is a big enough difference to me.
Just to echo some of what was said above:
1. Drive the car for a while, see what you like and what you want to improve. Handling, ride, HP/Torque, aesthetics
2. Everything happens through the tires. If your car still has the factory runflat tires, getting a set of performance summer tires is a good place to start. Get a bottle of slime or something like that because you don't have a spare. Probably looking at $500-$800 installed.
3. Aftermarket rear sway bar is nice because it is adjustable. You can have it installed for about $400-$500 (if you don't feel comfortable installing it yourself). There will be multiple holes for mounting the end links, which are adjustable without jacking up the car (crawl under the rear bumper) in about 10 minutes. This means that you can adjust the response of the car to steering inputs and general handling feel.
Have fun,
Mike
1. Drive the car for a while, see what you like and what you want to improve. Handling, ride, HP/Torque, aesthetics
2. Everything happens through the tires. If your car still has the factory runflat tires, getting a set of performance summer tires is a good place to start. Get a bottle of slime or something like that because you don't have a spare. Probably looking at $500-$800 installed.
3. Aftermarket rear sway bar is nice because it is adjustable. You can have it installed for about $400-$500 (if you don't feel comfortable installing it yourself). There will be multiple holes for mounting the end links, which are adjustable without jacking up the car (crawl under the rear bumper) in about 10 minutes. This means that you can adjust the response of the car to steering inputs and general handling feel.
Have fun,
Mike
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1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
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Thanks a bunch for the tips, danjreed that will definately be something i add to the list, seems like a great mod for the price.
the more y'all reply the more upgrades I want to get. thanks for all the input. so far this is what I've come up with, as what I want to get
AEM CAI
for exhaust I've looked at borla and milltek, but nothing real specific. if yall have a better suggestion i'd love to hear it.
for boost tubes I was going to use this alta boost tube
not sure for FMIC, only suggestion I've gotten is forge.
tune will be through manic mini.
how does that sound? and a few of you mentioned tires and suspension. do you have any specific ones you'd recommend? I'd probably wait to change the tires until the ones I have aren't any good anymore. I don't necessarily know if I need "all weather tires" as I live in Northern California and he weather is generally very mild.
the more y'all reply the more upgrades I want to get. thanks for all the input. so far this is what I've come up with, as what I want to get
AEM CAI
for exhaust I've looked at borla and milltek, but nothing real specific. if yall have a better suggestion i'd love to hear it.
for boost tubes I was going to use this alta boost tube
not sure for FMIC, only suggestion I've gotten is forge.
tune will be through manic mini.
how does that sound? and a few of you mentioned tires and suspension. do you have any specific ones you'd recommend? I'd probably wait to change the tires until the ones I have aren't any good anymore. I don't necessarily know if I need "all weather tires" as I live in Northern California and he weather is generally very mild.
Last edited by Moire; Sep 7, 2014 at 09:11 AM.
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,894
Likes: 8
From: Philly PA
Did you do the runs and mods at the dyne session or where they days apart?
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 37
From: Mission Viejo, CA
Thanks a bunch for the tips, danjreed that will definately be something i add to the list, seems like a great mod for the price.
the more y'all reply the more upgrades I want to get. thanks for all the input. so far this is what I've come up with, as what I want to get
AEM CAI
for exhaust I've looked at borla and milltek, but nothing real specific. if yall have a better suggestion i'd love to hear it.
for boost tubes I was going to use this alta boost tube
not sure for FMIC, only suggestion I've gotten is forge.
tune will be through manic mini.
how does that sound? and a few of you mentioned tires and suspension. do you have any specific ones you'd recommend? I'd probably wait to change the tires until the ones I have aren't any good anymore. I don't necessarily know if I need "all weather tires" as I live in Northern California and he weather is generally very mild.
the more y'all reply the more upgrades I want to get. thanks for all the input. so far this is what I've come up with, as what I want to get
AEM CAI
for exhaust I've looked at borla and milltek, but nothing real specific. if yall have a better suggestion i'd love to hear it.
for boost tubes I was going to use this alta boost tube
not sure for FMIC, only suggestion I've gotten is forge.
tune will be through manic mini.
how does that sound? and a few of you mentioned tires and suspension. do you have any specific ones you'd recommend? I'd probably wait to change the tires until the ones I have aren't any good anymore. I don't necessarily know if I need "all weather tires" as I live in Northern California and he weather is generally very mild.
The Borla S-Type exhaust is excellent for the money, but if you plan on removing the primary and secondary cats get a complete exhaust that includes DP, middle and muffler end sections. That's if you're alright with dismantling the exhaust every 2 years before your smog/inspection. Your state might not even care about removing the cats.
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