R56 Thinking of Getting This R56
Thinking of Getting This R56
My first post...I am thinking of purchasing the R56 Mini Cooper S 2007 with 81,000 miles. First walk around check reveals dinged up rim and broken air scoop...see picture. During the test drive, I noticed the brake light stayed on...figured it might be just low on brake fluid.
I want to negotiate a decent price noting that I have about a year left on the tires and an upcoming timing chain replacement. Before I make an offer, what other things I should check (all)? It seems to me that the car might not have had TLC.
My intent is to modify for autocross as well as spirited daily ride
I want to negotiate a decent price noting that I have about a year left on the tires and an upcoming timing chain replacement. Before I make an offer, what other things I should check (all)? It seems to me that the car might not have had TLC.
My intent is to modify for autocross as well as spirited daily ride
Last edited by NolliMini; Jun 14, 2014 at 06:59 PM.
More than likely t he light either means front and rear sensors are bad or it needs brakes. Seems like a fairly rough car. Any oil around the F I hoses or any where else.. oil leaks are fairly common and will or can lead to lots if pricey problems. I would have a skilled mini mechanic give it a thorough inspection
Well if you have been looking around on this site you will find the many common problems with this type of car. But get a list from all the prior things that have been done to it. A MINI dealer should be able to give you a print out. Also check and see if there is any other paper work on what might have been done to the car by non MINI dealerships. Then go from there! Timing chain is def. one thing you want to check, also see if it ever had a carbon cleaning. Just remember it is a used car and MINIs do require TLC . If the last owner wasn't doing that great of a job I would be cautious. But I will say this! They are a fun car! Im on my 3rd one!
Get a leakdown test, that will tell you more than any amount of paperwork will! Unless you're looking forward to rebuilding the engine, from one that owns an 07 MCS be sure and be careful!
Thanks folks for responding...I appreciate the input. After studying the photos, I realize that the tires might not be runflat as well as the rim are eighteen inches ones. The tires are continental tires; however, I haven't seen SSR on the tire...will look some more. Forgot to mention earlier that there is a rattle in pax door inside handle when riding on rough surface.
I am thinking of offering $7,200 if the compression test pass...fair!
I am thinking of offering $7,200 if the compression test pass...fair!
Last edited by NolliMini; Jun 14, 2014 at 11:52 PM.
If you are serious about buying this MINI I would still check out what prior fixes have been done. A leak down test will at least tell you if its worth sticking money into.. If this hasn't been cared for I would run the other way.. This is a MINI not a Honda! Good luck with what ever you do.
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Can you do your own repair work? Basically after the warranty runs out they are expensive to maintain. Problems include: major oil consumption, timing chain, carbon buildup, and expensive run flat tires. Plus the numerous check engine lights you will experience. The MINI is fun to drive, but the car you're looking at is a lemon (after 50k miles) and the current owner knows this. It will be very hard for him/her to sell it!
Don't pay more than $1,500 to $2,000 for the car...I'm serious about the price because you're going spend thousands of dollars to get new tires, the brake problem fixed, and of course the notorious timing chain replacement.
Make them an offer in the price range I mentioned and let us know what happens. The seller will laugh at first and then eventually (maybe a day or two later) your offer will be accepted. Good luck
PS - maybe - $2,500 max, if there is no rust and the body is in good shape.
Reading material for you: http://editorial.autos.msn.com/10-used-cars-to-avoid#8
Don't pay more than $1,500 to $2,000 for the car...I'm serious about the price because you're going spend thousands of dollars to get new tires, the brake problem fixed, and of course the notorious timing chain replacement.
Make them an offer in the price range I mentioned and let us know what happens. The seller will laugh at first and then eventually (maybe a day or two later) your offer will be accepted. Good luck
PS - maybe - $2,500 max, if there is no rust and the body is in good shape.
Reading material for you: http://editorial.autos.msn.com/10-used-cars-to-avoid#8
Last edited by Mini3333; Jun 15, 2014 at 07:57 AM. Reason: add space
With all the problems and defects that came with the new gen2 S models it would be smart to just walk away unless you can perform the repairs yourself! Why should you listen to me, have a look at my signature, bought it at 45k and have 53k now. In the last year $6000 has been spent in a year of ownership, I haven't spent this much combine for all of the cars I have ever owned in 28 years of driving. I speak from experience and I have almost half the mileage of the car you're looking at, follow your gut instinct and not your heart! You're buying someone else's headache.
Can you do your own repair work? Basically after the warranty runs out they are expensive to maintain. Problems include: major oil consumption, timing chain, carbon buildup, and expensive run flat tires. Plus the numerous check engine lights you will experience. The MINI is fun to drive, but the car you're looking at is a lemon (after 50k miles) and the current owner knows this. It will be very hard for him/her to sell it!
Don't pay more than $1,500 to $2,000 for the car...I'm serious about the price because you're going spend thousands of dollars to get new tires, the brake problem fixed, and of course the notorious timing chain replacement.
Make them an offer in the price range I mentioned and let us know what happens. The seller will laugh at first and then eventually (maybe a day or two later) your offer will be accepted. Good luck
PS - maybe - $2,500 max, if there is no rust and the body is in good shape.
Reading material for you: http://editorial.autos.msn.com/10-used-cars-to-avoid#8
Don't pay more than $1,500 to $2,000 for the car...I'm serious about the price because you're going spend thousands of dollars to get new tires, the brake problem fixed, and of course the notorious timing chain replacement.
Make them an offer in the price range I mentioned and let us know what happens. The seller will laugh at first and then eventually (maybe a day or two later) your offer will be accepted. Good luck
PS - maybe - $2,500 max, if there is no rust and the body is in good shape.
Reading material for you: http://editorial.autos.msn.com/10-used-cars-to-avoid#8
I have been wanting to set up a Mini Cooper S since high school...now is my chance. My spirit is screaming take a chance once I laid eyes on the above Mini. However, I knew I would need to negotiate a fair price...of course leading towards my pocket depth.
The Carfax claimed it had eighteen (18) added history reports however, I wanted to get feedback from the forum first before I get the report. I learned a lot when I spent all afternoon yesterday going through the forum, then became a member so I could pose any questions.
One thing I have learned from traveling is when others tell me not to go over there...that's exactly where I want to go. My hope is that the Mini Cooper S above may be where I want to go also.
I have seen videos of some using Seafoam, I guess to resolve the carbon build up...have folks here had luck going that direction?
Please keep in mind that I am trying to help you avoid the costly mistake that I made – owning a MINI. You do have a huge advantage over me in that you can perform your own repairs.
In regards to the Seafoam...my service garage recently added it or something similar into my 2008 MINI Cooper S for the carbon, and the check engine light went away.
If you can do your own work...then the 2007 S model is right up your alley. Lots of breakdowns and opportunities for you to get your hands dirty. I'm glad to hear that you have the passion for performing your own maintenance.
With that said $7,200 is still way too much...again $2,500 max. The current owner will accept your offer because with all of the problems you mentioned it will cost upwards of $4,000 for them to have it fixed at an import shop or dealer. I am not kidding!
Enjoy your new MINI! Keep in mind that you're buying a "project" ...Kelly Blue Book price does not apply to this purchase.
In regards to the Seafoam...my service garage recently added it or something similar into my 2008 MINI Cooper S for the carbon, and the check engine light went away.
If you can do your own work...then the 2007 S model is right up your alley. Lots of breakdowns and opportunities for you to get your hands dirty. I'm glad to hear that you have the passion for performing your own maintenance.
With that said $7,200 is still way too much...again $2,500 max. The current owner will accept your offer because with all of the problems you mentioned it will cost upwards of $4,000 for them to have it fixed at an import shop or dealer. I am not kidding!
Enjoy your new MINI! Keep in mind that you're buying a "project" ...Kelly Blue Book price does not apply to this purchase.
Please keep in mind that I am trying to help you avoid the costly mistake that I made – owning a MINI. You do have a huge advantage over me in that you can perform your own repairs.
In regards to the Seafoam...my service garage recently added it or something similar into my 2008 MINI Cooper S for the carbon, and the check engine light went away.
If you can do your own work...then the 2007 S model is right up your alley. Lots of breakdowns and opportunities for you to get your hands dirty. I'm glad to hear that you have the passion for performing your own maintenance.
With that said $7,200 is still way too much...again $2,500 max. The current owner will accept your offer because with all of the problems you mentioned it will cost upwards of $4,000 for them to have it fixed at an import shop or dealer. I am not kidding!
Enjoy your new MINI! Keep in mind that you're buying a "project" ...Kelly Blue Book price does not apply to this purchase.
In regards to the Seafoam...my service garage recently added it or something similar into my 2008 MINI Cooper S for the carbon, and the check engine light went away.
If you can do your own work...then the 2007 S model is right up your alley. Lots of breakdowns and opportunities for you to get your hands dirty. I'm glad to hear that you have the passion for performing your own maintenance.
With that said $7,200 is still way too much...again $2,500 max. The current owner will accept your offer because with all of the problems you mentioned it will cost upwards of $4,000 for them to have it fixed at an import shop or dealer. I am not kidding!
Enjoy your new MINI! Keep in mind that you're buying a "project" ...Kelly Blue Book price does not apply to this purchase.
This is the first time I have told anybody including my family members, right before I signed on the dotted line to purchase my MCS an overseer or manager whatever you want to call him told me that these Mini Cooper S models do have their problems and he asked me if I understood this, I said I understand what you're telling me, he needed a yes or no answer. Then I asked him why he waited till the last minute to tell me this, he said he was just doing his job. Basically what he really meant was why in the world would I tell you this the moment you looked interested in the MCS, you would have lost interest immediately.
The 'Italian tune-up' goes a long way. I use it on my VW. 3000+rpm for 30 min of driving will burn off much of the carbon buildup. To my knowledge, the Mini has never had a carbon cleaning at 100k. I think these cars can be reliable, but if you trust the dealer to do all the service you will be broke fast.
Last edited by zrickety; Jun 17, 2014 at 05:42 AM.
Background...I am coming from the Miata NA posse and did all work on the car that includes Cold Air intake, autocross suspension system, full catback exhaust, high performance brakes with braided stainless steel lines, various body braces, performance sway bar with adjustable end links, etc. The car got hit while been parked, and the insurance totally wrote it off. The Miata is very sensitive but reliable if maintenance are kept up...believe the Mini might be that way too.
Suspension bolt ons are going to be about the same as far as level of difficulty. Engine bolt ons can be a bit more trouble due to cramped nature of FWD engine compartments and the fact that the MINI has a TON more electronic crap on it. Still manageable.
The expensive problems you're likely to run into on a MINI are largely due to the design of the engine. The ones I fear most are the timing chain tensioner and the vacuum pump, either of which can easily cost you your engine and neither of which are necessarily things you can overcome through any amount of proper maintenance. If you maintain a Miata and keep on top of things like the timing belt, follow proper torque procedures on the crankshaft bolt, etc. you're pretty much guaranteed to be problem free, and even if something does happen the engine is a non-interference design so you just slap a new belt on it or whatever and be on your way.
Something you might do / consider before making a purchase is test driving a first generation MINI Cooper S (R53) with the supercharger. Their quirks seem to be more things you can plan for and address ahead of time rather than the "ticking time bomb" sort of things you get with a 2nd generation S... Considerably more robust and Miata-like from that perspective.
Honestly if I'd been paying cash for the car I'd probably be in an '05-06 R53 right now instead of a 2nd generation. Unfortunately for me, it's more difficult to finance a car that's more than a couple of years old. It doesn't sound like you have that problem.
At least if the engine in the MINI goes I'll have the Miata to drive until I can get together enough cash for repairs. :D
Edit: Oh, and I didn't see anyone mention it, but the hood scoop in your pics appears to be melted - a fairly common problem on these cars. Do a search for "melted hood scoop".
NolliMini,
Grueinthebox has good advice.
I will tell you the MINI is fun to drive...and it makes weekends better! But please listen to his comment about the 2nd generation S. You don't owe the seller any more than $2,500-max for a car that is a "ticking time bomb", needs new tires, brakes, timing chain, TLC, and has a melted hood scoop!
I also like what grueinthebox says - look at the MINI Cooper S (R53) with the supercharger.
Also - Stupid question for you: In 2007 a lot of MINIs came with a lifetime subscription to Sirius Satellite Radio as an option...did the R56 you looked at have this?
Did you make an offer on the car?
Grueinthebox has good advice.
I will tell you the MINI is fun to drive...and it makes weekends better! But please listen to his comment about the 2nd generation S. You don't owe the seller any more than $2,500-max for a car that is a "ticking time bomb", needs new tires, brakes, timing chain, TLC, and has a melted hood scoop!
I also like what grueinthebox says - look at the MINI Cooper S (R53) with the supercharger.
Also - Stupid question for you: In 2007 a lot of MINIs came with a lifetime subscription to Sirius Satellite Radio as an option...did the R56 you looked at have this?
Did you make an offer on the car?
Last edited by Mini3333; Jun 16, 2014 at 03:20 PM.
My first post...I am thinking of purchasing the R56 Mini Cooper S 2007 with 81,000 miles. First walk around check reveals dinged up rim and broken air scoop...see picture. During the test drive, I noticed the brake light stayed on...figured it might be just low on brake fluid. I want to negotiate a decent price noting that I have about a year left on the tires and an upcoming timing chain replacement. Before I make an offer, what other things I should check (all)? It seems to me that the car might not have had TLC. My intent is to modify for autocross as well as spirited daily ride
Just keep looking and you'll be happy you did if you could find a great priced 2011 MCS on lots of websites. Good luck.
So far, I took a 2003 Mini Cooper for a ride just to get an idea of the first generation feel. Then, I took the above Cooper S for a drive today again to compare. The 2003 Mini Cooper is going for $7900; however, the above Cooper S is a better deal since I am interested in a Cooper S.
What I have noticed in the Mini Cooper S, JCW 2005 - 2006 as mentioned here, is sellers still want pretty dollars...the closest one to me asking $13500.
I noticed some oil leak but could not get a good shot of it (see pic) to tell if it just a valve cover gasket leak. I had also taken a video shot of the engine for the sound on start up...sadly it did not record even though indication claimed it was happening...camera battery could have been low. I might need to see whether the dealer will let me jack the car up and place it on stand. So, I have not made an offer yet.
If the car is at a dealer and has the brake light on it's almost certain that the fix is either expensive or difficult (or both). If it was cheap and easy the dealer would fix it themselves so as to not have it bringing down the value of the car.
At a minimum if you're determined to pursue this car spend a couple hundred bucks and get it looked over by a good independent mechanic who knows MINIs... They should be able to tell you the source of the leak, cause of the brake lights and probably some other stuff you haven't noticed yet. It'll be money well spent.
At a minimum if you're determined to pursue this car spend a couple hundred bucks and get it looked over by a good independent mechanic who knows MINIs... They should be able to tell you the source of the leak, cause of the brake lights and probably some other stuff you haven't noticed yet. It'll be money well spent.



