My car has been leaking oil for quite a while now, but I figured no biggy because it is kind of a slow leak. Things are starting to get pretty gunked up now, and I was informed I need a new front crank seal (was also told I need a new tensioner and friction wheel because they are dirty but I think a good cleaning will help that). I'm getting some mixed information when browsing. It was my understanding that you just remove the three bolts on the crank pulley, use a pic to get the seal out, gently tap in the new seal (with a small rubber hammer I'm assuming?), and replace the pulley. I was informed that as long as that middle bolt isn't removed, timing should remain in tact. However, on the Pelican Parts forum about removing the pulley, I was told that it's behind the timing components and it's not as easy as described here. Any insight on which is correct or any special tools? I didn't think I had to mess with any of the timing.

We tried to get to it when replacing the drive belt/water pump, but chickened out because I wanted more information before just unbolting things. I'm assuming it's ok if the crank turns a little while you are loosening the three (not the main middle bolt) bolts since that's pretty much turning the entire engine.

 

What engine? What year? Cooper S? If you can get to the seal, you may be able to pull it out and tap in the new one as you describe. I haven't done the MINI yet, but with most cars it just sits in the timing cover.

 

Sorry..07 r56. I didn't think it should be too difficult. Is there a special tool to tap in it with?

 

There are special tools for installing crank/cam seals; they can be pretty expensive.
I have always used a socket approximately the same size as the seal and used that to tap the seal in.

 

Thanks for that suggestion. This might be kind of a stupid question but I'm going to ask it anyway...Any idea how far you usually have to tap it in? Or will it just stop at some point?

 

No problem. Where the seal sits is generally just slightly deeper than the thickness of the seal itself.

 

Awesome. I'll give this a shot. Another inexperienced question, when removing the 3 bolts that remove the pulley, and keeping the main middle pulley in tact, the engine is ok to spin a bit, as long as that middle bolt doesn't get pulled or loosened? The comment from Pelican kind of makes me nervous.

 

Also take note of the location of the old one before you remove it.

 

Yeah I was planning on taking a picture before removing. Good advice

The only thing really making me nervous is the damn pulley removal. I don't want to mess it up, but don't want to pay a few hundred bucks to change out a $20-$30 part.

 

Yep look at the old one to see how far it is driven in. Some seals you can bottom them out and others you aren't supposed to drive them in that far. You can also use a piece of PVC to drive a seal in if you can get it in the right size.

If you don't loosen the center crank bolt then the timing won't be affected.

 

Awesome, so if the pulley turns a bit while loosening the 3 bolts, I should be good?

-Water pump, no problem
-cleaning the carbon from the valves..sure!
-crank pulley removal to get to a seal...uh..

 

Do you have a link to the DIY for this? I'd like to look at it to see what it is you are confused about.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...irst-post.html

That's the one I've been looking into.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

At the bottom of that one is of them where I ask a question as Shirk which is what is causing me some confusion.


I'm not so confused about the job itself. It's more about making sure nothing I'm going to do is going to mess up the timing. Like when loosening the three little bolts, if the crank moves while turning the bolts, it shouldn't change the timing at all since that crank bolt is still in place. That is what I'm most curious about. tech's answer.

 

oops..double post.

 

Ok what I gather from those threads is that you will need special tools. I'm assuming one to hold the crank and probably another to lock the cams.

I would contact pelican parts like they suggested and get the special tools, or go to your local sub-forum and see if anyone has them to loan or give you a hand.

You don't want to chance throwing off your timing and ruining your engine when you try to start it back up.

 

That's what I am most afraid of. The NAM post didn't seem to talk about tools except for when he removed the center hub bolt. And if you check out the seal itself of waymotorworks.com, it doesn't say anything about needing special tools, but Pelican does, which is what is causing some confusion here. It might be worth just calling my local shop to schedule to have it done.

 

Yeah after looking at both I'm confused too!! The pelican parts pictures definitely show the center bolt removed; but it also says not to or risk throwing off timing... Then I see a pic of them reinstalling the crank pulley by using the center bolt to pull the pulley onto the crank shaft...

I'm hoping someone chimes in that has done this job before and can clarify the process!

 

$300 dollars to get it done right is a small price to pay considering the risk!

 

The pelican is a little misleading since it has mostly the r52/r53 setup. The r56 is the very last part/very last picture shown, but it only really talks about the pulley removal, which I know is the first step of getting to the seal. I thought the seal would sit right behind the pulley, not behind any of the timing elements. I didn't think it would mess with any of the timing, but that's why I thought I'd bring it up here in case anyone knew.

Systemlord - I'm calling the shop after work to see about what it will cost me exactly.

edit: Just talked to a sales specialist at Pelican - he stated no extra parts are needed to change the seal....

 

Well if you do attempt the job yourself, post some pics!!! GL

 

ha. Thanks. I'll see how brave I'm feeling Saturday morning when doing some cleaning from the leak.

 

This thread is getting ridiculous. Just buy the Bentley manual and then you don't have to ask all these questions...

Straight from the Bentley... Remove pulley, remove seal, reinstall seal with BMW special tool

 

Sorry you feel it got out of hand here. But thanks for the picture.

 

Apply light "COAL" of engine oil to seal lip----

Come on Bentley-

 

lol. Didn't even notice that.