R56 start up after refuel......
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1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 13
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start up after refuel......
Hello everyone, Newbie here. I just got a 2008 Cooper S for my daily 100 mile commute. Its a pretty high mileage car, but I LOVE it!!
Runs great, but a couple of things I wanted to get advice on.
1) I drive through the Bronx, NY everyday - lots of potholes, when I go over a bump or repaired strip, if I'm accelerating the car seems to jump a bit to one side or other (depending on camber etc) is it normal? and can it be cured or minimized?
2) When I fill the car - (I'm using 89 Oct is that correct?) and go to start it, it almost seems like it wont fire, then stumbles a bit and fires right up.
its the only time this happens, never happens any other start.... any advice or thoughts?
Thanks,
Matt
Runs great, but a couple of things I wanted to get advice on.
1) I drive through the Bronx, NY everyday - lots of potholes, when I go over a bump or repaired strip, if I'm accelerating the car seems to jump a bit to one side or other (depending on camber etc) is it normal? and can it be cured or minimized?
2) When I fill the car - (I'm using 89 Oct is that correct?) and go to start it, it almost seems like it wont fire, then stumbles a bit and fires right up.
its the only time this happens, never happens any other start.... any advice or thoughts?
Thanks,
Matt
3rd Gear
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
Hello everyone, Newbie here. I just got a 2008 Cooper S for my daily 100 mile commute. Its a pretty high mileage car ..
.. if I'm accelerating the car seems to jump a bit to one side or other (depending on camber etc) is it normal? and can it be cured or minimized?
2) When I fill the car - (I'm using 89 Oct is that correct?) ..
Thanks,
Matt
.. if I'm accelerating the car seems to jump a bit to one side or other (depending on camber etc) is it normal? and can it be cured or minimized?
2) When I fill the car - (I'm using 89 Oct is that correct?) ..
Thanks,
Matt
I had an Acura TSX before this car and it had the exact same "jumping around" feeling that you describe. It felt much better after I got an alignment and wheel balance, but it still wasn't 100%. Start with the easiest things first - wheel alignment and balance. After that, it could be several difference things - struts, springs, lower ball joints, tie rod.
As for the gas, you absolutely MUST MUST MUST use a premium fuel!!!
I just had to pick up my jaw off the ground when I read you've been using standard 89 octane fuel. Holy moly.
FUEL MATTERS! I am picky about my gas, and I only use Chevron. If no Chevron, then Shell or BP. Fill up with 91 or 93 next time around and see what happens. Hopefully it resolves the issue, and the hesitation was just your MINI yelling at you for giving it terrible gas.
You may also be interested in checking out these threads for common issues on the R56 Cooper S.
Carbon Build-up
Timing Chain/Tensioner Campaign
Turbo Heat Shield Recall
.. and all of the Stock Problems/Issues Forum
Last edited by babysarah; Nov 11, 2013 at 07:55 AM.
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 750
Likes: 2
From: Orange County, NY
Just to piggyback (I agree with everything you said), in our area (I'm in Manhattan), 91 Octane is usually the highest you'll find. Only a few have 93. I wish 93 were more readily available...it would allow for a more aggressive tune.
And to Englaish Matt, congrats and don't forget to wave....especially to me because we're neighbors
And to Englaish Matt, congrats and don't forget to wave....especially to me because we're neighbors
Congrats on joining the MINI world. First and foremost, I hope you researched the R56 S before making your purchase. With that being said, I wish you the best of luck in owning a high mileage MINI S with such a long daily commute.
I had an Acura TSX before this car and it had the exact same "jumping around" feeling that you describe. It felt much better after I got an alignment and wheel balance, but it still wasn't 100%. Start with the easiest things first - wheel alignment and balance. After that, it could be several difference things - struts, springs, lower ball joints, tie rod.
As for the gas, you absolutely MUST MUST MUST use 93 octane!!!
I just had to pick up my jaw off the ground when I read you've been using standard 89 octane fuel. Holy moly.
FUEL MATTERS! I am picky about my gas, and I only use Chevron. If no Chevron, then Shell or BP. No matter what, always a 93 octane. Fill up with 93 next time around and see what happens. Hopefully it resolves the issue, and the hesitation was just your MINI yelling at you for giving it terrible gas.
You may also be interested in checking out these threads for common issues on the R56 Cooper S.
Carbon Build-up
Timing Chain/Tensioner Campaign
Turbo Heat Shield Recall
.. and all of the Stock Problems/Issues Forum
I had an Acura TSX before this car and it had the exact same "jumping around" feeling that you describe. It felt much better after I got an alignment and wheel balance, but it still wasn't 100%. Start with the easiest things first - wheel alignment and balance. After that, it could be several difference things - struts, springs, lower ball joints, tie rod.
As for the gas, you absolutely MUST MUST MUST use 93 octane!!!
I just had to pick up my jaw off the ground when I read you've been using standard 89 octane fuel. Holy moly.
FUEL MATTERS! I am picky about my gas, and I only use Chevron. If no Chevron, then Shell or BP. No matter what, always a 93 octane. Fill up with 93 next time around and see what happens. Hopefully it resolves the issue, and the hesitation was just your MINI yelling at you for giving it terrible gas.
You may also be interested in checking out these threads for common issues on the R56 Cooper S.
Carbon Build-up
Timing Chain/Tensioner Campaign
Turbo Heat Shield Recall
.. and all of the Stock Problems/Issues Forum
Last edited by DTH2CHRM; Nov 8, 2013 at 02:20 PM.
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 37
From: Mission Viejo, CA
Great timing because the most notorious issues 2007+ MCS have is the timing chain components, Mini USA is taking care of anyone who has the startup rattling mostly heard the first few seconds and thereafter sometimes lasting indefinitely. Expect to pay for a carbon blasting every 35-50k miles, it's braces of the direct injection. The intake valves never see any of that fuel cleaning chemicals. You don't have to go to the dealer to do it, dealer charges way too much!
Happy motoring.
Happy motoring.
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,963
Likes: 393
From: In the here and now, for now.
+1 on the 91 to 93 octane. You will, or should, see an improvement in mileage. As for the potholes, go to Way Motor Works (vendor directory) for a pair of M7 strut tower plates. They are a simple 10 minute install. The retaining nuts do need torqued, BTW.
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere in the Burbs of NY.
Welcome
Welcome to NAM!
This community is no joke....seems like you picked up the car before joining, which is probably what most do. Never fret, you're in good hands...
If you see me cruising down the Hutch, wave at me too.
"Let's Motor"
This community is no joke....seems like you picked up the car before joining, which is probably what most do. Never fret, you're in good hands...
If you see me cruising down the Hutch, wave at me too.
"Let's Motor"
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 37
From: Mission Viejo, CA
Is there a fuel additive to increase the octane rating that is safe for those without access to anything higher than 91 octane?
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3rd Gear
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
To my knowledge, they don't seem to be worth it. From what I understand, they only bring your octane up about 4-5 points .. so 0.??? something. Not enough, in my opinion, to see a big difference. I used to use one every fill up on my Cobra that I had years ago, never really saw a difference so that was the end of so-called "boosters."
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,963
Likes: 393
From: In the here and now, for now.
Just make sure you are getting it from one of the 'Top Tier' vendors.
http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html
4th Gear
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 375
Likes: 87
On my R56 the octane requirement in the filler cap is 89. So even midgrade should be fine for the N18, not sure if the earlier engines were different. You're not hurting anything if you go with 93, but probably not helping anything either.
Damn near all modern cars (I assume the Mini included) have a knock sensor. So even if you go too low on fuel octane it won't damage anything, you'll just lose a little power because the car will retard the timing.
Pour in octane boosters are absolutely not worth it. The "points" they refer to on the bottle are tenths of an octane number, so "raises octane by up to five points!" equates to 0.5 octane. Big whoop. Also some of them contain manganese compounds (the less toxic modern equivalent of tetraethyl lead) which isn't good for your spark plugs or cat converter.
TLDR: just go with the manufacturer's listed octane or higher and you'll be fine.
(For the record, I'm a Chem E and worked in the refining industry for a few years.)
Damn near all modern cars (I assume the Mini included) have a knock sensor. So even if you go too low on fuel octane it won't damage anything, you'll just lose a little power because the car will retard the timing.
Pour in octane boosters are absolutely not worth it. The "points" they refer to on the bottle are tenths of an octane number, so "raises octane by up to five points!" equates to 0.5 octane. Big whoop. Also some of them contain manganese compounds (the less toxic modern equivalent of tetraethyl lead) which isn't good for your spark plugs or cat converter.
TLDR: just go with the manufacturer's listed octane or higher and you'll be fine.
(For the record, I'm a Chem E and worked in the refining industry for a few years.)
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 13
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Thanks so much everyone for the feed back! I do cruise along the Hutch! I travel every day from SW Fairfield county (Weston)on the Merritt Parkway, Hutch Or Cross Bronx Expressway to the south Bronx. With some of the potholes, its like getting hit with an IED ! I love this car, I'm going to start a blog, Just getting back on my feet after losing my job earlier this year, and I am going slowly and carefully. got the car for a fantastic price, Just got a K&N Typhoon kit for $175, so it going to be my low budget buzbomb! His name is Jarvis, silver with a black roof ( just like my hair) and an incredibly well looked after red leather interior. I'll post some pics soon.
Matt
Matt
3rd Gear
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
For your '12 MCS, your owners manual says that 91 is the "highly recommended" minimum octane. 89 is simply the minimum usable octane. There is a huge difference. As per your manual ..
The minimum AKI Rating is:
- Cooper S: 91 John Cooper Works: 93
- Cooper: 89
4th Gear
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 375
Likes: 87
Yep, you're correct, Sarah: N18 manual says 91 is "highly recommended", didn't see that. However, right below that the minimum required for '12 Cooper S/JCW is listed as 89, not 91/93, and that's what it says on the fuel lid.
Those words have specific meaning with regards to octane. "Recommended" means you can run lower without damage, but may lose a bit of power due to the retarded timing. If the manual says "required" there is the risk of engine damage. So just keep it above the minimum and nothing will a'splode.
Anyway, my point was that saying you "must must must run 93" is incorrect, so don't scare the kid. No car sold in the US requires 93, because 93 isn't available everywhere (max in CA is pretty much 91). Go by what the manual says and you'll be fine.
Those words have specific meaning with regards to octane. "Recommended" means you can run lower without damage, but may lose a bit of power due to the retarded timing. If the manual says "required" there is the risk of engine damage. So just keep it above the minimum and nothing will a'splode.
Anyway, my point was that saying you "must must must run 93" is incorrect, so don't scare the kid. No car sold in the US requires 93, because 93 isn't available everywhere (max in CA is pretty much 91). Go by what the manual says and you'll be fine.
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 37
From: Mission Viejo, CA
On my R56 the octane requirement in the filler cap is 89. So even midgrade should be fine for the N18, not sure if the earlier engines were different. You're not hurting anything if you go with 93, but probably not helping anything either.
Damn near all modern cars (I assume the Mini included) have a knock sensor. So even if you go too low on fuel octane it won't damage anything, you'll just lose a little power because the car will retard the timing.
Pour in octane boosters are absolutely not worth it. The "points" they refer to on the bottle are tenths of an octane number, so "raises octane by up to five points!" equates to 0.5 octane. Big whoop. Also some of them contain manganese compounds (the less toxic modern equivalent of tetraethyl lead) which isn't good for your spark plugs or cat converter.
TLDR: just go with the manufacturer's listed octane or higher and you'll be fine.
(For the record, I'm a Chem E and worked in the refining industry for a few years.)
Damn near all modern cars (I assume the Mini included) have a knock sensor. So even if you go too low on fuel octane it won't damage anything, you'll just lose a little power because the car will retard the timing.
Pour in octane boosters are absolutely not worth it. The "points" they refer to on the bottle are tenths of an octane number, so "raises octane by up to five points!" equates to 0.5 octane. Big whoop. Also some of them contain manganese compounds (the less toxic modern equivalent of tetraethyl lead) which isn't good for your spark plugs or cat converter.
TLDR: just go with the manufacturer's listed octane or higher and you'll be fine.
(For the record, I'm a Chem E and worked in the refining industry for a few years.)
4th Gear
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 375
Likes: 87
Per the Bentley service manual, the R56 knock sensor is "bolted to the rear of the engine block near the starter motor". So yeah, looks like you should have one, just not where you're looking.
Shot in the dark guess on that would be a clogged fuel filter? That would cause the pump to strain and could theoretically cause lean running under load, which could result in detonation. However, one would think that would throw a check engine code.
Really just a guess, though.
Shot in the dark guess on that would be a clogged fuel filter? That would cause the pump to strain and could theoretically cause lean running under load, which could result in detonation. However, one would think that would throw a check engine code.
Really just a guess, though.
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,963
Likes: 393
From: In the here and now, for now.
You touched upon big pot holes again. Again, don't overlook the front strut tower defenders. WMW carries the M7 models, very easy to install, remove 3 nuts, lay the plate in place and replace the nuts, torque to 25#.
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 37
From: Mission Viejo, CA
Per the Bentley service manual, the R56 knock sensor is "bolted to the rear of the engine block near the starter motor". So yeah, looks like you should have one, just not where you're looking.
Shot in the dark guess on that would be a clogged fuel filter? That would cause the pump to strain and could theoretically cause lean running under load, which could result in detonation. However, one would think that would throw a check engine code.
Really just a guess, though.
Shot in the dark guess on that would be a clogged fuel filter? That would cause the pump to strain and could theoretically cause lean running under load, which could result in detonation. However, one would think that would throw a check engine code.
Really just a guess, though.
3rd Gear
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
I forgot that a lot of states don't have access to 93 as much as they do 91. Finding 91 is rare here in Florida, so when my cars say "use premium" I automatically think of 93. Except Wawa, they have 92. 
6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 57
From: Scottsdale, AZ
These fuel filters are good for 100k, I hear that they are huge in size. Interesting is my in-tank fuel pump is starting to whine a bit more than usual, like a harmonic high frequency whistle. Can these fuel filters be accessed via underneath the rear seats or do I have to drop the gas tank?
1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
2) When I fill the car - (I'm using 89 Oct is that correct?) and go to start it, it almost seems like it wont fire, then stumbles a bit and fires right up.
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 37
From: Mission Viejo, CA
Do you remember where this thread was located? On NAM?
6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 57
From: Scottsdale, AZ
The thread is here -
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...er-change.html
The DIY with pics is here -
http://www.minicooperspeed.com/fuel-filter-change/
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...er-change.html
The DIY with pics is here -
http://www.minicooperspeed.com/fuel-filter-change/
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