R56 N18 Oil consumption
N18 Oil consumption
I had heard that the older MINI's had issues with oil consumption. So I was hopeful that they had gotten a little better with the N18 motor. I had been changing the oil every 4K and never noticed it used very much, but I missed the mark on the last 8K period so I decided to just wait till the counter expired and just let the dealer do it.
So it was about 8200 miles since the last change and it was dead center between the two marks on the (crappy) dipstick....
Seems pretty good to me. . . I guess I broke her in pretty good... LOL
So it was about 8200 miles since the last change and it was dead center between the two marks on the (crappy) dipstick....
Seems pretty good to me. . . I guess I broke her in pretty good... LOL
I had heard that the older MINI's had issues with oil consumption. So I was hopeful that they had gotten a little better with the N18 motor. I had been changing the oil every 4K and never noticed it used very much, but I missed the mark on the last 8K period so I decided to just wait till the counter expired and just let the dealer do it.
So it was about 8200 miles since the last change and it was dead center between the two marks on the (crappy) dipstick....
Seems pretty good to me. . . I guess I broke her in pretty good... LOL
So it was about 8200 miles since the last change and it was dead center between the two marks on the (crappy) dipstick....
Seems pretty good to me. . . I guess I broke her in pretty good... LOL
FWIW, MINI does not claims any expected oil consumption levels, but BMW has always advertised "1 quart per 1K miles is within norm" position. All of my previous bimmers used either no oil, or at most 1 quart per 5K.
YMMV,
a
You think you have it bad, I need to add 1/2 quart of oil every 800--1000 miles (N14)! Darn that PCV system!
oil comsumption
on the 2007-2010 check the vacuum pump {on the vacuum hose side} for oil- if it shows any sign of oil- replace the vacuum pump immediately.
this has been known to cause catostraphic engine failure{s} by sucking all the oil out and burning it - then the pump seizes - locks up the cam
- you may not see any external leak - remove the vacuum hose {gingerly} if you see oil you have a problem.
this has been known to cause catostraphic engine failure{s} by sucking all the oil out and burning it - then the pump seizes - locks up the cam
- you may not see any external leak - remove the vacuum hose {gingerly} if you see oil you have a problem.
38k miles on mine, no appreciable oil consumption. from reading the forums i was paranoid and carried a bottle of oil in my car for the first months of having my car. thankfully it seems mini fixed/improved the engine
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I went years without needing oil between changes (about every 8k miles). But this year I needed total 3 quarts between changes (about once a year I don't drive much). Go figure. I've got 60k miles on my 2007 now.
I've had my 2009 MCS since 2/2013. The dealer records showed that the "Complementary Oil Change" occurred at 28,XXX miles. I bought the car at ~30,000 miles, and did an oil change then. Between 31,000 to 35,000 I did not see any consumption of oil. My driving was all 30-45 minute drives on highway (approximately 50 miles / day).
Two weeks ago I took the car in for an oil change at the dealership @ 35,000. Since then, I added 1,100 miles. 1,000 of which came from a trip I took this weekend. All highway miles at average speed of 70-75 MPH.
I checked the oil today, and it seems to be about 1/4 (or a bit more) down from the top marker.
Quite unusual in comparison to my first 5,000 miles.
Can anyone tell me where the vacuum pump /hose that is referenced in the post above is located? I want to see if there is a problem.
I'm thinking of going back to the dealership and inquiring as to the sudden oil "gone missing".
Two weeks ago I took the car in for an oil change at the dealership @ 35,000. Since then, I added 1,100 miles. 1,000 of which came from a trip I took this weekend. All highway miles at average speed of 70-75 MPH.
I checked the oil today, and it seems to be about 1/4 (or a bit more) down from the top marker.
Quite unusual in comparison to my first 5,000 miles.
Can anyone tell me where the vacuum pump /hose that is referenced in the post above is located? I want to see if there is a problem.
I'm thinking of going back to the dealership and inquiring as to the sudden oil "gone missing".
Resurrecting as since I got my 2012 MCS N18 (41k miles on the clock), made exactly 1000 miles after purchase, just checked the oil level and the car hasn't used any. I know that the dipstick design is extremely stupid, but is it possible that the "1-quart-every-1000-miles" does not apply here?
I drive around like a crazy person with a quart of oil in the trunk just in case it needs a top up - or does it apply only to N14? Thanks!
I drive around like a crazy person with a quart of oil in the trunk just in case it needs a top up - or does it apply only to N14? Thanks!
We have a 15 Roadster with the N-18 (bought new)
I have NEVER had to add oil between changes .... and I do changes BY THE COMPUTER INTERVAL . . . approaching 50,000 miles
and yes, I check it regularly ....
I have NEVER had to add oil between changes .... and I do changes BY THE COMPUTER INTERVAL . . . approaching 50,000 miles
and yes, I check it regularly ....
Resurrecting as since I got my 2012 MCS N18 (41k miles on the clock), made exactly 1000 miles after purchase, just checked the oil level and the car hasn't used any. I know that the dipstick design is extremely stupid, but is it possible that the "1-quart-every-1000-miles" does not apply here?
I drive around like a crazy person with a quart of oil in the trunk just in case it needs a top up - or does it apply only to N14? Thanks!
I drive around like a crazy person with a quart of oil in the trunk just in case it needs a top up - or does it apply only to N14? Thanks!
From an automotive oil consumption standpoint that's pretty minimal. But even just doing 5K oil changes I'd be down over a quart if I didn't top it off, and a quart is a LOT in a car that only holds about ~4 qts total. So it's pretty important to check oil levels regularly in these cars.
I really honestly think the oil you use has something to do with this as well. I have been using Castrol edge 5w-40 for pretty much the whole year I have owned the car, and yes N14 here. Depending on how it was driven I would burn 1qt 1000 to 1500. I did a liqui moly engine flush and swapped in their 5w-40 and motor oil saver. 2200 miles later and I’m down 1.25 qts, so far so good with the liqui moly.
Resurecting this again for a quick sanity check - have done 2800 miles since my last oil change (the chain tensioner was replaced as well).
The oil level is slightly above the half mark on the dipstick. Is this fine or excessive? I drive the car mostly on open roads and highways, almost no city driving. Do like to stretch it's legs every once and a while
I plan to change oil every 5.5k miles.
The oil level is slightly above the half mark on the dipstick. Is this fine or excessive? I drive the car mostly on open roads and highways, almost no city driving. Do like to stretch it's legs every once and a while

I plan to change oil every 5.5k miles.
So, what is the agreed upon cause for most cases of oil consumption on the N18? My M54 (2002 BMW 530i) has a known issue with low tension piston rings that get carbon fouled after time. I've come up with a fuel treatment regimen that has significantly slowed that consumption and am wondering if most cases of N18 oil consumption are also piston ring related.
Update - I've driven the car for a bit longer (the last time I checked the oil it was a trip of 10-15 miles) and it appears that the oil level is just above full now. What the heck?
One thing though, I did park it nose first, the last time it was reverse. But it couldn't possibly be the change in elevation as the incline is like 1%. Or could be?
One thing though, I did park it nose first, the last time it was reverse. But it couldn't possibly be the change in elevation as the incline is like 1%. Or could be?
Oil weight and volatility has a lot to do with it... If you live in a warm environment... go with a 10W-30 oil and the NOACK numbers (an indicator of evaporative loss) will drop....
OR... Stick with a 5W-30 with great NOACK numbers like Redline or Amsoil...
It will make a difference in oil consumption...
0W oils like 0W-30 or 0W-20... Will get you a lot of evaporative loss and 'oil consumption'...I'd only use them in Super-Arctic temps.
I think oil choice with good spec is important...
.
OR... Stick with a 5W-30 with great NOACK numbers like Redline or Amsoil...
It will make a difference in oil consumption...
0W oils like 0W-30 or 0W-20... Will get you a lot of evaporative loss and 'oil consumption'...I'd only use them in Super-Arctic temps.
I think oil choice with good spec is important...
.
Last edited by mountainhorse; May 10, 2021 at 09:13 PM.
Again...the evaporative loss is a pretty big deal on ANY GDI engine... and most engines in general...
Don't be tempted to go with any 0W oil unless you live in the Arctic... or run sub -20˚-F all the time.
Low NOACK numbers are a good indication of that volatility or propensity for evaporative loss of the oil... The evaporative loss WILL be sucked back into the engine... coating the intake valves (that are not 'washed' with gas from port injection)... and into the combustion chambers.
Also, this evaporative loss will change the lubricity and chemical properties as the oil 'thickens' from loosing this component of the oil that 'boils' off first. (think of an overcooked soup
)
NOACK numbers in the sub 7% will give you some great results if the properties of the oil are good to start with.... Redline, Amsoil and some others come to mind.
A $50 tag on oil for your oil change should be considered a good investment IMO.... less deposits, better long term stability of the oil as a lubricant, and a cleaner engine....
Just something to "chew on".
.
Don't be tempted to go with any 0W oil unless you live in the Arctic... or run sub -20˚-F all the time.
Low NOACK numbers are a good indication of that volatility or propensity for evaporative loss of the oil... The evaporative loss WILL be sucked back into the engine... coating the intake valves (that are not 'washed' with gas from port injection)... and into the combustion chambers.
Also, this evaporative loss will change the lubricity and chemical properties as the oil 'thickens' from loosing this component of the oil that 'boils' off first. (think of an overcooked soup
)NOACK numbers in the sub 7% will give you some great results if the properties of the oil are good to start with.... Redline, Amsoil and some others come to mind.
A $50 tag on oil for your oil change should be considered a good investment IMO.... less deposits, better long term stability of the oil as a lubricant, and a cleaner engine....
Just something to "chew on".
.
Again...the evaporative loss is a pretty big deal on ANY GDI engine... and most engines in general...
Don't be tempted to go with any 0W oil unless you live in the Arctic... or run sub -20˚-F all the time.
Low NOACK numbers are a good indication of that volatility or propensity for evaporative loss of the oil... The evaporative loss WILL be sucked back into the engine... coating the intake valves (that are not 'washed' with gas from port injection)... and into the combustion chambers.
Also, this evaporative loss will change the lubricity and chemical properties as the oil 'thickens' from loosing this component of the oil that 'boils' off first. (think of an overcooked soup
)
NOACK numbers in the sub 7% will give you some great results if the properties of the oil are good to start with.... Redline, Amsoil and some others come to mind.
A $50 tag on oil for your oil change should be considered a good investment IMO.... less deposits, better long term stability of the oil as a lubricant, and a cleaner engine....
Just something to "chew on".
.
Don't be tempted to go with any 0W oil unless you live in the Arctic... or run sub -20˚-F all the time.
Low NOACK numbers are a good indication of that volatility or propensity for evaporative loss of the oil... The evaporative loss WILL be sucked back into the engine... coating the intake valves (that are not 'washed' with gas from port injection)... and into the combustion chambers.
Also, this evaporative loss will change the lubricity and chemical properties as the oil 'thickens' from loosing this component of the oil that 'boils' off first. (think of an overcooked soup
)NOACK numbers in the sub 7% will give you some great results if the properties of the oil are good to start with.... Redline, Amsoil and some others come to mind.
A $50 tag on oil for your oil change should be considered a good investment IMO.... less deposits, better long term stability of the oil as a lubricant, and a cleaner engine....
Just something to "chew on".
.
The owners manual says that Mobile 1 0w40 is tested and certified for the N18 engine.
It's easier to get ahold of.
Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 was also on the list in the manual.
Project Farm on Youtube tested this oil to flow extremely well at cold temperatures and cook off even less than the Mobile 1.
I've always used Mobile 1 Full Synthetic in all of my vehicles without any issues whatsoever.
BUT, maybe I'll give the PenzPlat a try with my Countryman S....
It's easier to get ahold of.
Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 was also on the list in the manual.
Project Farm on Youtube tested this oil to flow extremely well at cold temperatures and cook off even less than the Mobile 1.
I've always used Mobile 1 Full Synthetic in all of my vehicles without any issues whatsoever.
BUT, maybe I'll give the PenzPlat a try with my Countryman S....







