Going to do an intake cleaning and wondering the best way to turn the rotating assembly. I was thinking of using my starter switch but my main concern is the starting sequence how it continues to spin after you pushed the button once and not holding it. Is there a way to disable that or would the hand held starter switch bypass those electronics?

Or a way to do it by hand, however I'm sure the crank is impossible to get to.

 

So the method I went was to remove the inner fender liner and rotate the crank by hand. By logic this seems like a good way to do it as long as its in the correct rotation. Does this seem right?

I'm a little worried the timing is off. I cleaned my valves and it initially ran a bit rough but has smoothed out since. Guessing maybe blowing out the rest of the junk and regathering data as it ran.

Is there a way to verify the timing?

 

ONLY TURN BY HAND! You can snake in a 18mm socket on a ratchet just fine after you take off the splash guard from underneath the serpentine belt.

Clockwise if you're looking at the front of the engine crankshaft pulley only.

If you didn't touch the engine's timing assembly at all there is no reason to check the timing. The N14 usually runs a little rough the first minute and then smooths out. If you made the unwise choice to start taking apart your timing chain, then you automatically elected to buy the BMW special tools to set timing. A $300+ mistake. Using the BMW tools is the only way since there are no timing marks like many old domestic inline 4-bangers.

 

If it is has a manual transmission, you could take the spark plugs out and put the car in fifth or sixth gear and just roll it back and forth to turn the engine.

Dave

 

Good to hear. Its my first time doing "engine work" on a OHC engine. So just looking for some reassurance it was the correct procedure. I took out the fender liner and just got an 18mm on it from there, took out the plugs so it was easier to turn. And when I say it ran rough, it was rough. Not a normal start up. Then after I shut it down, then restarted it was just turn over and over. Removed intake again, checked everything, put it back on and it started but ran rough again, checked the faults and had some misfires but it eventually started smoothing out. Changed plugs after driving it around a bit and haven't had any fault codes yet. Powers good so thinking timing is ok. Didn't take the valve cover off or start disassembling the timing chain parts.

Would the timing being off even just a little like skipping a tooth cause a CEL or noticeable change in performance?

I did check out the camshaft locking tools as I was looking for the tension measuring tool. Hopefully won't need them in the future but will get the one to check the chain slack.

Thanks!

 

I would expect some kind of disagreement between the cam position sensor and crankshaft position sensor. I'm not a MINI ECU guru so I'm not sure what codes would populate. You would definitely notice a performance issue.

 

It's possible the rough start was just the MINI burning off some cleaned-out junk that made it into the combustion chamber. Long story (search my username) but I had my MINI towed after cleaning the valves because I'd gunked up the works.

 

Ah, yes. I did run across yours when I was searching for some answers. Probably something similar. I walnut blasted mine though. I did spray some TB cleaner in just to see if it puddled to verify the valves were closed, then mopped it out. I think after I blasted here was some looser stuff and when I cranked it it went into the cylinders. Old plugs were noticeably nastier. Did he say what he cleaned yours out with? I'd like to add something to hopefully clean off the pistons.

I started a thread, but I guess it hasn't been approved yet...
Before


After


Once it all seemed to blow out its been a blast to drive. Will probably give some good hard runs every week or so. If I keep it longer than the summer I'll add a catch can and spray it out one more time. But I'm thinking of starting a E30 project for a DD.

Next will get the timing chain tensioner tool to see what my chain slack is and get a new tensioner (hopefully thats all) and see if that clears up some of the rattle in the top end.

 

Congrats on getting it done yourself. I've seen some chatter about preventing build-up with hard driving. I don't think that that will do a thing to prevent build-up. One thing I am sure of is that catch cans don't help either.

 

Yea, the hard driving is probably just more of a mental fix. If anything its a good reason too.

What makes you sure that catch can's don't work? Or atleast minimize the build up.