Hi everyone,

I have a 2011 mcs and I am wondering if anyone can give mme advice as to what I can next to mod my mcs performance wise that will not void my warranty. I have a DDM cai so far... Does anyone know of any soft tunes where I can switch the ecu back when I need warranty work? Is there anything else I can use for performance gains that I can easily switch back for warranty work. Should I just wait until my warranty expires in 2015?

 

The Alta Access Port is the best thing to get. You can bring the ECU back to stock settings when you bring your MCS to the dealer. I've done it quite a few times.

 

Since the 2011+ 'S'-models have the N18 engine, the AccessPORT is NOT an available option.
Read up on the following for engine tuning for the N18 engine:
* https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n18-minis.html

- Erik

 

Yeah I know but is there nothing I can do for that n18 engine lol

 

Most bolt-on mods will not void your warranty. It really can depend on your dealer tho.

Two popular bolt-on options would be. Downpipe and a FMIC. I notice huge performance gains imediately after installing my Akrapovic DP so I would suggest that firstly. It's also relatively easy to replace yourself by putting the front of the car up on jack stands.

I went with the NM tune because it can be un-tuned and re-tuned for dealer warranty work for $50.

I've done quite a bit to my car and I don't foresee any warranty issues.

 

Questions:
1. For the dp, will I get a cel after awhile or when paired with the NM tune do the new maps prevent this?

2. The FMIC can be bolted off correct because it goes over the stock Intercooler?

3. If I want to "un-tune" the ecu do I have to send in my ecu or just reflash it myself?

I'm just a little confused, thanks

 

1.
Yes. You will get a CEL from any DP. NM will not turn off the CEL with a tune because they are based out of California and can be heavily fined if they do. Search on NAM for how to turn off the CEL. The easiest method is with the Akrapovic Delete-R that Way sells.

2.
I bought a Forge FMIC because I got a good deal on it. Any aftermatket FMIC that I know about replaces the OEM one entirely. Id really only get a FMIC if you're going to tune. Otherwise you gain no power from it unless you're really pushing the car for a long time. It's been said that you actually lose a few HP with an aftermarket IC and no tune.

3.
You can't do anything yourself to your ECU. Anything and everything you want to do to it requires that it be removed. So to un-tune, you'll need to take or send your ECU to the tuner.


Skim thru the "Always Up-To-Date Thread on N18 Tuning" thread and that will answer every question you might have about the tune. Also try to call the tuners directly. Most of them are small companies with awesome customer service and will be happy to explain their procedures to you.

 

Another thing you might try is a SprintBooster. Search for that an you an get an idea of what it does. I *believe* it works with an N18. It'll give you better throttle response and just plugs into the OBDII port and is much easier to remove than a tune.

It's not as good as a tune but its at least something. But check if it'll work with your car first.

 

An upgraded intercooler, without any upgraded ECU programming, does work well in keeping the intake air temperature cooler than the OEM plastic unit.
Not only is the surface area greater for larger convection of heat-transfer, but the smoothed end tanks help with flow.
The OEM unit can easily heat soak, especially in hot stop-and-go traffic; just use a IR temperature gauge and see / feel.

It actually installs between the throttle pedal assembly electrical connector, and the wiring harness to the ECU.
Some people swear by it, but it seems extremely overpriced for what the "Sport" button and my foot can already do.

- Erik

 

Thanks for the info! After reading much of the almost never ending n18 tune thread, I was torn between NM and Renntech! But I've decided to go with NM because of the price and reflash ability. The cel will bother the heck outta me so when I decide to get it I will definitely look for options to eliminate it. I'll also talk to my dealer to check their stance on mods. I'm wondering tho if I should an I/c or exhaust first before the nm tune?

 

Definitely get your exhaust system and I/C before you tune. But depends what your doing to your exhaust!

 

Technically, according to NM-Engineering, adding a downpipe and intercooler would allow running the Stage 2 programming.
Consult with NM to determine how to obtain / change between programs if you do or do not have the appropriate matching hardware to support.

- Erik

 

Meh the 2011+ is just to locked down to really matter with any mods.

 

Contrary opinion here...

It's a Mini. It's NEVER going to be a fast straight line car. Ever! (yet another catless rant coming)

For the relatively small amount of power you get from removing the catted downpipe, you risk fines, possible impound of your car, grossly pollute everybody's air, your car smells like azz, and it's still not a fast car.

The best thing you could do is modify and upgrade the nut behind the wheel. There is nothing more satisfying than schooling somebody that has a highly modified car in something that is supposed to be "slower".

Ok, that said... A FMIC does not make any power, it lets engine make the power it's supposed to have longer and more consistently. The stock IC is really small. Even when you aren't pushing it, on a hot day in traffic, the intake temps will really get high. The higher the intake temp, the more the ECU cuts power in order to protect the engine. You can see what's happening if you have a Scangauge or anything else that allows you to monitor real time engine parameters. (just a few seconds in boost and the intake temp can easily be 150F+, if not more.) With a FMIC the increase is barely above ambiant, and the recovery is much quicker. So a stockish car with a fmic will be faster than a modified one without.

 

I got ahead of myself lol I don't think I'll get an I/c or dp until after the warranty expires. I think I'll just keep my car stock with my intake and the nm tune in stage 1 (although i wish they would've made an OBD tool available for the n18). That way I can steer clear of any warranty questions etc.

 

Do you have an Android based phone? If so, get this
and
http://torque-bhp.com/

That right there is roughly $20 for everything a Scangauge can do and what an AP can do minus the tuning aspect.