I have looked but have not found a DIY on how to change the timing tensioner. Can anyone point me in the direction of one or a step-by-step to do this. Are there any precautions I should take before starting it? Basically any input would be awesome.

 

If you search on YouTube there is a video of how to do it. It is very straight forward just make sure you tighten the bolt enough in the video they give the wrong torque spec. I believe the correct torque is 50' lbs but mine still leaked a little oil and I had to tighten it a bit more.

 

This is about the closest to a DIY here on the site:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tensioner.html

Having done it myself and looking back on those directions, I'm not sure how helpful they are. Basically all you need to do is remove the airbox and one hose to access the tensioner. Take it out, put the new one in, then replace everything. I think it only took me about 45 minutes and most of that time was spent trying to loosen the tubes where they connected to get them free.

You'll need a 27mm socket which I believe is the same size as the oil filter housing, so if you are doing your own oil changes, you should have all the tools you need (assuming you have a torque wrench as well).

 

cool, thanks guys. I started taking off all the pipes and hoses etc as i will have the new tensioner tomorrow. i am also going to do the noise maker delete while i'm in there.

 

I was going to avoid the R56 altogether until I saw how cheap and easy the tensioner is to replace. I now have restored faith, and this will be the first thing I do when I buy mine!

 

If this is really such a quick easy job, why the big fuss about having the dealer replace it? Is it because there is usually other damage, or does the dealer replace the timing chain as well?

 

If all the dealer does is replace the tensioner, then it is relatively cheap. Part is $60+/- and then an hour labor. However, usually the problem manifests itself as a rattling noise. The diagnosis process includes a measurement of the chain and if it is beyond a certain length, the entire timing chain, gears, guides, etc., have to be replaced. That is about a $1,500 - $2,000 job (depends on the dealer for actual price).

 

Just finished installing the new tensioner. It's the same length as what's in there but stiffer. After install, there was no "diesel" sound, It's cold where I'm at, leading me to think that the tensioner is the cause of the cold start rattle. My thinking is if the chain were out of spec the equal length replacement tensioner would not stop the rattling. I'll report if the rattle goes away after tomorrow morning. It's supposed to get cold again tonight.