Before I tear into the overhead console to find a power tap for my V1, has anyone done this and can describe which wires were tapped? I've done this to two of my other cars and would like to eliminate the dangling power cord. Here are a couple of pics of my current setup. It taps the power to the rearview mirror.

 

What I did (in my R53), and would recommend - install an add-a-circuit in the footwell fusebox, and run the wire up the A pillar and tuck into the headliner until you get to the RV mirror. That way there's no splicing, and you have a clean fused link to power.

 

And, it was easy to pull A pillar trim and get the Valentine supplied cable up to the unit.

 

This thread in the "how-to" section with 342 responses and nearly 40,00 views will answer all of your questions.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ew-mirror.html

 

Thanks, guys. That's the normal way of doing it I am trying to avoid. I've done lots of pretty major electrical mods to my cars in the past so splicing is nbd. I was hoping someone had a switched tap they already did this with in the overhead so I could replicate with no issues since I don't have the schematics for the MCS yet. I have extra Add-A-Circuits in case I need to go that route. Note that in the pics I posted above, no splicing was needed as I plugged the pins into the back of the connector.

 

Thanks - that's perfect.

 

Before I’d cut into the wiring, I’d use a telephone cord to plug into my radar detector and run it along the pillars down into the fuse panel. (that’s what I did with my last 3 minis) I’m still doing it now with this one except it sits just above the dash.

The only thing I’ve ever spliced into the factory wiring was for auto up windows.

Mark

 

The V1 hard wire power tap fits inside the foot well fuse box and from there you can run the wire for the V1 remote behind the dash to where ever you want easily. If you wire into the rearview mirror your V1 may stay on for a time after you turn off the ignition. Also, you will still probably want to run the remote wire down the pillar.

 

Thanks guys.

Today I mounted the V1 on the passenger side of the mirror using the original mounting clip along with the "hook" side of Velcro and found I coud slip the arm of the mounting clip between the headliner and roof. Very stealthy and solid and I can still pull it out and put it in one of my other cars if I need to. I ran the phone/power cord inside the headliner, down the passenger A-pillar and into the fuse panel in the passenger footwell. The V1 is powered only with the ignition on, exactly as I wanted it. It goes off instantly when I shut the car off.

 

Do we have a detailed guide with pictures and ect ect ect on how to run it down the A pillar and into the fuse box anywhere??

I had it the other way, above the mirror, on my last Mini. My V1 kit just came in today (left the other one in the old leased car) and I'm looking to install. It was fine with me the way it was done last time...but open to other options.

Best,
Gene

 

I don't have pictures of how I ran the cord (unusual for me as I usually take pics of everything as I do mods) but I can describe it to you in detail if you like.

Today I ran the wire for the remote display I bought recently and modified a bracket out of, of all things, a bracket for my V1 from my Vette that I had replaced with a different style. I will be doing the final mounting of the remote tomorrow - tested it this evening and it works. I just need to let the paint on the bracket dry and mount it.

 

Mounted the remote display this morning. Tried to keep it as stealthy as possible while still accessible. Works great.