I am relatively new to driving a manual transmission. I "learned" about a year and a half ago on an old F-150, but havn't driven a stick shift since, until yesterday (2007 Scion tC). I am by no means bad, let's just say not all of my stop-to-first shifts are butter-smooth.
Anyway, I know every transmission is different, and was just wondering how an seasoned stick driver would characterize the MC tranny. I've heard it has one of the smoothest clutches out there, but curious as to how it compares to others (longer/shorter throws, more/less gas into first, etc).
I know the only way to really get a feel for it is to DRIVE it, but my NFR/B comes in less than two weeks, and I just wanted a little mental preparation.
(Yes, I blind-ordered a 6-speed after test driving the auto because I was more comfortable grinding my friends gears than the dealers!)
Anything helps, thanks!

 

I believe most will agree that without sport mode on, you will need to give it some gas (more so than you're used to) to get it going in first gear. With the AC on, I've come close to stalling (and I've been driving stick for 15 years). It shifts quite smoothly through the rest of the gears, but just getting it up and going (without sport mode) can be a little tricky.

Tony

 

Once you get the 6 Speed Manual, you'll get so used to it that you will not even think about shifting. It will become instinctive and you'll love how it enhances the driving experience. We have had manual tranmissions in almost all of our cars, including the 1992 and 2008 Corvettes we currently own. The 6 Speed in the Mini S we test drove felt smooth to me for a front-drive car. The throw felt a bit long for what I'm used to, but not in a bad way. All in all I liked what we test drove and expect our new MCS to be another fun 6 Speed tranny.

Take it from an old gearhead - in the '60s we used to say: "I'd Rather Eat Worms Than Drive An Automatic". Not really, but we do prefer manual transmissions.

 

As long as you understand how driving a manual transmission works, you should be good. You've got some experience. It'll take you a little while to find the friction point and to get used to how much gas to give it and how many RPMs you're at at a certain speed and gear. Other than that, though, you should be fine.

 

Interesting thread. I was just talking about this yesterday to a friend. We were wonder how people learn to drive stick these days when most cars now come in automatic.

I've driven two vehicles on a regular basis that were manual, a small mazda truck and a toyota paseo. Neither of those were sporty by any means of the stretch of the imagaination. Having only test driven the MCS, I'd say it's much easier to drive the MCS because there's a wider range of speed in each gear. I didn't have any trouble starting from a stop. Once you get the hang of it, it's like riding a bike.

I'm coming from driving an automatic on a 4runner. Now I'm driving my wife's old paseo to "practice" so I'll be an expert when my MCS comes in.

Also, I found some good videos on youtube demonstrating how to drive stick, both for beginner and advance techniques. The one I watched was actually driving a Mini! Just do a search.

 

If you are almost stalling the car (with or without the Sport Button on), then there is a problem with the car, or there is a problem with your driving... I haven't yet received my MINI, but both times that I went for lengthy test drives, I didn't experience anything like that (and this was mostly with the button off).

I really think people are over-thinking what that button does. It just reduces the amount of help on the steering, and makes the accelerator more "twitchy."

 

This is an intersting and timely thread. I was just thinking about this as well after driving manual my entire life, up until recently where I was driving an SMG. I didn't test drive a manual MCS, but the auto. How embarassing would it be I go and pick up T-Rex and can't even get it home and stall it at the dealer as everyone is watching!

Better go and practice on a rental!

 

I know!!!
This is what worries me...

 

I'll agree with "Roadtrip" that the throw seems a little longer than I'm used to (probably because both my Mustangs have short-shifters ), but that it was very easy to drive.

Granted, I probably gave it a little extra gas at the start simply to avoid stalling, sputtering, etc, so you wouldn't want to do that for months (for clutch-wear reasons), but as you get used to the car, you'll be more and more "in-sync" with the amount of throttle it takes to take off, and you won't need that extra rpm to get going without stalling, etc.

So, if you want to avoid stalling as you're learning (and most importantly, as the dealer is waving goodbye haha), just give it a little extra rpm to work with, and then bring the launch rpm down as you get used to it. No one can just hop in a manual car and seem like they've been driving THAT car for years, simply because the "catch point" of the clutch is different in every car. So, just play it on the safe side, and go with a little extra rpm.

 

Good thread. I'll let the other smarter people talk about the technical side of stickshifting. I WILL say, though, after "teaching" a potential buyer of my '04 MCS 6-speed how to drive a stick, the MINI is a VERY VERY forgiving car.

I wasn't allowed to get my official license (per dad) until I learned how to drive not just the automatic beater car ('84 Buick Century - what a boat!!) but a manual trans, too. My truck is an auto - for the utility of the towing pkg - but I don't think I could ever bring myself to drive an automatic car ever ever ever again. I like feeling like a real race-car driver w/my 6 speed!!

 

What I said earlier was "with AC on, I've almost stalled". There have been other threads where others have reported on this as well, so I'm not unique. You're right, it does come down to driving, as it IS drivable with the AC on. It's just that the sport button tightens the throttle response and compensates for the drop in power due to the AC.

When I went on my test drive, it was a nice spring day with no need for the AC. It was only after I drove my own car in the middle of summer, with the AC blasting, that felt this "shuddering" at take off. Using sport mode helped.

Mine is a justacooper. Perhaps the S is different.

My 2cents.
Tony

 

I've got no advice, just wanted to comment on the fact that you picked a great color Mini.

 

Dumb question: Is "throw" the gap between the floor and the catch point of the clutch? I am pretty much teaching myself to drive the manual on my new MCS. Its doable but not always pretty.

 

I stalled out on the test drive and when i picked it up... not a problem anymore though.

In reference to how much gas it needs, I have put it into first a few time using no gas at all, just letting the clutch out slowly. I know slipping it causes more wear, I was just curious.

 

The button makes the accelerator behave properly. I have problems if sport mode is off, I press the accelerator to where the engine should be at take off speed and nothing happens, then when you let out the clutch you don't have enough revs. Its just aweful.

I have more years driving stick than I care to contemplate (27) and I very seldom think about shifting, it just happens. So I'd say its just fine.

 

My dad took me to the steepest hill in the country and put the car in N with E-brake set and that was my intro. into a 5 sp. man. After that it was all cake.

The biggest adjustment I had, during my test drive my car comes in within the next few days , was driving a 6spd. My past car was a 5spd and the shift pattern was different. When leaving the dealer I was a little worried that I would go the wrong way, especially b/c it was first time driving a cooper S so I was giving it a little extra gas not to stall it in dealer lot. But after a little playing around it is really hard to mistake 1st for R.

 

Shifter throw is typically referring to the distance one has to move the actual shifter when shifting gears, such as when you go from first gear to second gear, for instance.

A vehicle with a "short throw" would be a Miata, because you physically move the shifter just a few inches. A "long throw" would be a pickup truck with a floor mount shifter where you literally move the shift **** a foot or so when going from 1st to 2nd.


As far as the "gap between the floor and the catch point of the clutch"... the difference in that "gap" when driving different cars is why it takes a few minutes, at least, for even an experienced manual driver to "get the feel for" driving a new car.

 

The Mini is the easiest manual trans car I have driven, easy clutch, the gears fall into place. And dont worry about stalling it, everyone who has driven a manual has done the same thing. I have a little experience... about 35+ years worth. If you want to appreciate the Mini clutch and trans. get in a 20yr old 911 and you will se what I'm talking about.

for me shifting is half the fun

KC

 

smooth.

 

I've been driving my MCS for about a month now and I have to say it is a great car for a first manual transmission. The hill assist feature that comes with the DSC is very helpful for what is probably the most intimidating part of learning to drive a manual - starting on a hill.

I do have a couple of questions though that maybe someone on here could answer:

1) i couldn't find speed ranges for each gear in the owner's manual. are there recommended ranges out there? i've just been shifting at around 2000-2500 rpm, which puts me at 1st: 0-15 mph, 2nd: 3-30 mph, 3rd: 20-45 mph, 4: 30-60 mph, 5: 60+ mph , 6: 65+ mph.

2) i did notice that the owner's manual also recommends downshifting to save the brakepads. does anyone do this regularly? i've heard that unless you rev-match each downshift, you can damage the clutch/transmission, so it is better to just use the brake because it is cheaper to replace brake pads than the drivetrain.

 

Think they are referring to downshifting to save on break pads when you are on an incline. Instead of breaking all the way down and include, maybe in the mountains, you set your gear to that which will allow you to maintain your speed, but not plummet to your death and have to use a run-a-way truck pit.

 

I let a friend of mine, drive my car a couple of weeks ago. She had not driven a manual transmission since she lived in India 10 years ago. She drove the car very well, and never stalled it. So, I guess it's a pretty easy manual to drive.

 

+1
my Porsche 930 is one of the most challenging transmissions out there. It's extremely precise, yet once you master shifting it provides one of the best driving experiences available. Really, shifting is a serious art w/ the older 911's/930's. -Truly meant for racing not grocery shopping.

 

I'll try to provide some input here and I am sure you will get others who will provide feedback as well.

1) Some vehicle owner's manuals provide speed ranges for shifting, but IMO the RPM range is more important. The optimum shift point is different for various engines (4cyl, 6cyl, 8cyl, etc.) and has a lot to do with the torque curve (power) of the engine. Without getting to technical, the shift point should be at a high enough RPM so the engine will not be strained ("lugged" or "bogged" down). Which is to say - not allow the engine to struggle or buck when the clutch is released.

You will get a good feel for this, since it is very easy to "lug" a 4cyl engine because they generally have less low end torque (power at low RPM's). It sounds like your method is working or you would notice the engine "lugging". On the other hand, you do not want to "over-rev" the engine which is to accelerate to a higher RPM than the engine will take. Over-reving the engine can cause serious damage. Since the "redline" or "rev-limit" is quite a bit higher (around 6500+ RPM if I recall) you are at the low end and within the RPM range of the engine.

2) Downshifting to slow the car will save on brake pads, but IMO it is not a good way to slow down because it can cause excessive wear on the clutch and strain on the transmission. Brake pads and a brake job are cheaper maintenance than a new clutch and installation.

When downshifting, you do want to rev-match the engine to the transmission to prevent extra strain on the clutch and transmission. Once the engine is rev-matched and the clutch is engaged, you can backoff the accelerator to allow the engine RPM to drop as you continue to engage the brakes.

If you simply downshift without rev-matching, it can cause an abrupt, jerky slowing of the car which is very hard on the clutch/transmission and can be unsafe as to the reaction of the car. Apply the brakes, rev-match the engine, then downshift, and continue to brake (unless you are racing and need to accelerate into the next turn)....

Hope this helps!

 

Definitely, the tach's there for a reason. You should shift up before you hit the rev limiter. How far before the rev limiter depend on how much performance, or how much economy you want. Best performance is if you shift up a tick before you hit the red line, I'm not the best person to talk about economy, but lower is probably better as long as you don't end up at too low revs in the higher gear. The MC seems to like keeping it above about 2k.

If you want to land in the higher gear at 2k revs, the shift points would be approx:
1st 3600 (19mph)
2nd 3000 (27)
3rd 2600 (35)
4th 2300 (42)
5th 2300 (48)