If you're as cheap as I am, you look for every deal you can get. Advance Auto Parts has Castrol 5w30 on sale for about $4.65 a quart until 10/27. It's the full synthetic recommended by MINI for the R56. Advance has lots of stores east of the Mississippi. Not so many west of it.

Not affiliated with Advance or Castrol, just passing along the info.

 

I get 5qrt jugs for $19.99 at Walmart. I end up wasting 1 quart but it is still a deal.

 

Doesn't the R56 take 4 1/2 quarts?

 

I thought MINI recommended the European Castrol 5-30w; which a number of people have said is different than the USA off-the-shelf Castrol 5-30w.

 

This is not the right oil

 

Oil doesn't drain completely. From my experience on other cars I have done oil change at home none drained completely.

 

well then, I'll be using the wrong oil. No intention of going 15,000 miles between, so shouldn't be a big deal.

What's the difference?

 

The US spec Castrol is not a "true" synthetic. The German born stuff is. Just look for "Made in Germany"

 

"True synthetic"? Sounds like an oxymoron to me. If it's not a true synthetic, then what's a synthetic blend? Is the German stuff more fake than US fake?

I'll ask again. What's the difference, except what's printed on the label?

 

The US oil companies were able to get the "definition" of synthetic changed to include a bit of dino oil that has been manipulated to meet the same spec's as a true synthetic. Thus the difference.

 

So, maybe I should be using Amsoil (I do in my Harley). They claim to be superior to all other oils. Seems like kind of a waste if I'm going to be changing my oil and filter every 5,000 miles.

All oils are going to gather contaminants and deplete the additives, and the filter will need changing no matter how good the oil is, so the benefits of more expensive oils is only a small part of the equation.

I think the quality of the filter is more important than the difference between oils.

I hope you're not going to tell me that the OEM MINI filters I just bought have a superior German counterpart.

 

You are right.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...tentId=6003468
Base is dyno oil according to Castrol.com.

 

Of course there are better German filters........that's how it works isn't it? Buy something and then find out there is a better product for less money......!

Redline, Amsoil, Royal Purple, and German Castrol are the most popular true synthetics. Will you go wrong buying the "other" synthetics......not in my opinion as long as you follow the recommended oil change intervals. I change mine twice a year, but I don't put a lot of miles on my MINI, about 6-7 K a year.

 

Amsoil and Royal purple maybe true synthetic but how much research and developement do they do compared to Castrol? What if they build up gunk and not get rid of it like Castrol syntec does as claimed at Castrol.com?
I agree with you guys about "as long as we change oil regularly and frequently....." the engine wear will be the last thing that will give us headaches.

 

I used to put <5,000 miles in my car a year, but now that I have a MINI that will probably go up (I used to ride my cycle more). My intention is to change my oil now (at about 3,000 miles). I intended to do it sooner, but didn't get it together. That should get me through the winter. I bought my car at the end of March, so the next one will be part of scheduled maintenance, so I'll get the MINI branded Castrol. Next year, I'll do the same. But I fear that MINI will only do a change based on time rather than mileage in the first year, so will revisit the situation next fall and see how things go.

Thanks for the explanation. But from what I remember the biggest culprit is the myth that all the oil goes through the filter, which is just that, a myth.

Jas.

 

First I've heard of this - can you give some specific examples (other than a clogged oil filter) where oil bypasses the filter?

On my old MGB, if the oil pressure was above about 45psi (which was most of the time if the engine was above idle), a spring-operated poppet diverted oil from the output of the oil pump back into the oil pan, but I can't think of an example where unfiltered oil would actually make it to the bearings/drivetrain/cylinder walls.

 

The strength of the spring that holds the bypass closed? I can't give you a specific example, but I used to drive a Miata so I can only assume it was related to that. Maybe Harley Davidson.

AFAIK, there is only one way into and one way out of most filters so that bypassed oil will not necessarily avoid the drivetrain. And doesn't the oil from the pan provide much of the lubrication (e.g. to cylinder walls) despite that it may not be through the oil passages?

Here's one site that gives something of an explanation:

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html

 

The oil in the pan doesn't provide any significant lubrication. The crankshaft main and rod bearings are fed with pressurized oil through a central hole drilled through the crankshaft that is then fed through holes into the bearing surfaces. A little oil splashes up onto the cylinder walls, but it's not really needed for lubrication. In the 'S' engine, I think there are oil sprayers to cool the underside of the pistons, but that comes from pressurized "squirters", so that oil goes through the oil pump and the filter.

I guess there's always a chance that the oil could pick up metal particles from one part of the engine and deposit them somewhere else that they could do harm before the oil gets back to the filter, but if that's happening, the damage would be done even if you had brand-new oil in the engine.

 

Synergyn is a very high quality full synthetic oil I have used for years in all our vehicles, great guys too. www.synergynracing.com

Now about those better high quality filters ...how about some more info.

 

If the crankshaft is dipping into the oil pan and picking up oil, you have over-filled it and the oil can be frothed up by the action of the crank. This is why one shouldn't over-fill an engine with oil.

Last I looked, the MINI was not a motorcycle. I think I read somewhere that the Prince engine has an oil-on-demand system of some type. So, to understand what part the filter plays in the Prince, one really needs to understand the design of the oil system in this engine. Assumptions based on Miatas or MGs may not be applicable.

 

I wasn't claiming that the MINI's oiling system was anything like my MG's - I was just pointing out that even if an oiling system has built-in bypasses, that doesn't necessarily mean that the bypassed oil is used to lubricate the engine.

And I'm fairly certain that the MINI has an oil-on-demand system, since virtually all cars do. If you have an oil pressure gauge, watch it as you increase the engine speed. Once the oil reaches a certain pressure, it stops increasing, even as the engine speed continues to rise. Since the oil pump is driven by the engine, the only way this can happen is if the excess pressure is being relieved by porting some of the oil back to the pan without going through the engine.

EDIT - I guess you could regulate oil pressure without bypass valves if you put some kind of a gearbox on the oil pump so that the pump speed stays constant regardless of engine speed, but I can't think of any cars offhand that have such a system.

 

Here's the deal. Some 0-30 Castrol sold in the U.S.A. is "made in Germany" and the label states that on the back. Some says it is "made in U.S. from domestic and imported components". ALL other weights sold in the U.S.A. have the same statement about domestic and imported components. The only place I have found the German made 0-30 is Autozone, but it may be sold other places as well. To complicate things Autozone some times has the German variety, sometimes the U.S.A. variety, and sometimes there are both kinds on the rack! BOTH German and U.S.A. oils state that they meet the requirements of BMW, Porsche, Mercedes Benz, etc. From this I would surmise that U.S.A. Castrol 5-30 or 5-40 fulfill Mini warranty requirements along with the fact that you can not get German 5-30 or 5-40 from USA retailers.

Only the German made oil is 'fully' synthetic by some definitions. Here's the simple non-scientific explanation. (I'd give you the scientific explanation, but hey I'm a banker not a chemist.)

Some synthetic oil is made by creating a 'base stock' - the majority of the oil less the additive package- from scratch with chemicals. A purist would call this 'fully' synthetic or a real synthetic oil. This is how German Castrol is made.

Other synthetic oil is made from a base stock that originates as regular crude oil or 'dino'. They just refine the HELL out of it.

So, you say, what is difference Mr. Wizard. Well I'll tell you Jimmy. 'Fully synthetic' oil is made with only the chemicals that the maker wants in the base stock so it is pure. 'Dino' oil is refined to take most the impurities out and leave in only what the maker wants. The synthetic oil that is made with a 'dino' base stock has a much, much, lower level of impurities than regular non-synthetic 'dino' oil due to the aforementioned 'refine the HELL out of it' process.

Mobil 1 used to be 'fully' synthetic and sued Castrol to try to make them stop labeling their USA oil as synthetic since is was derived from 'dino' oil. Mobil 1 lost the case. This lead to many oils being labeled synthetic even though they were derived from 'dino' oil. Mobil 1 claimed that 'real' , 'fully', synthetic oil was superior and belonged in a class of its own. Interestingly Mobil 1 has switched some or all of its oils to a 'dino' base stock. They did this without announcing it to anyone. They still haven't admitted to it, but when asked point blank that won't deny it and use 'weasel' language that rivals politicians. Apparently Amsoil has all now switched some or all of its oils to a 'dino' base stock as well. Redline is still fully synthetic, but they do not go through American Petroleum Institute (API) testing (They grade oil and put their seal on the oil they test). Speculation is that they use too much of additives like zinc which is a good additive engine wearwise, but not so good emmissionswise.

I quit using Mobil 1 once I found out about the switch since it is more expensive than other commonly available synthetics and apparently is only more expensive due to superior marketing and not a superior product.

It is debatable if 'fully' synthetic oil is any better than synthetic that is derived from 'dino' oil. Apparently synthetic made from 'dino' oil is cheaper however.

If you have a day or two to surf go to www.bobistheoilguy.com. This is a surprisingly wonderful site relating to all things oil! They have huge forums with worthwhile information from ordinary drivers and some professionals. Oil filters have been tested for both filtration and flow. There are posts with analysis of virgin and used oil. The virgin analysis shows what different brands of oil have as additive packages. The used oil analysis shows how different oils have held up over various mileages and times in a huge variety of vehicles. Many of the posters are attempting to go as long as possible before changing oil. It is surprising that it is possible to go 20K miles sometimes. I have seen posts of Porches with their factory fill going 20K miles and the oil is still adequate. Of course their capacity greatly exceeds the 4.5 quarts Minis have. The forums show that many posters have had very good results (analysis) of German Castrol and Pennzoil Platinum.

The posters there probably spend as much on oil analysis as they do on oil and filters. They are truely oil geeks if there really are such people! As a practical matter they would be better off just spending the oil analysis money on more frequent oil changes! That, however, apparently wouldn't be as much fun and fortunately for us they have provided a lot of information.

Once you have read a few hours worth of information there you'll have to decide what you want to do as to oil and oil changes.

Here is what I have concluded:

1) Synthetic oil is clearly better than conventional dino oil. It flows better at start up, it flows better at much lower temperatures, it hold up better under heat and stress, keeps your engines cleaner with less deposits, and it lubricates for more miles. That being said, most people will be perfectly fine with conventional, non-synthetic, oil if they change it and the filter every 5,000 miles.

2) There is little if any practical advantage to 'fully' synthetic oil vs synthetic oil that is derived from dino oil.

3) There is not a lot of difference between different brands of synthetic oil. Any 'name brand' will provide good results.

4) Extended oil change intervals such as the Mini calls for are OK.

5) Any oil filter is OK and they are much, much, less important than the type of oil used.

Even after knowing and/or believing all of the above this is what I do.

I do one oil and filter change in between warranty changes on my 07 MCS. I changed it the first time at about 5K miles and 3 months. I put in 0-30 Castrol. My first warranty change will be at 14K miles and 9 months (the oil will have 9K miles on it). The next oil change I do - next spring will be to Castrol 5-40 because I will be autocrossing and doing some track. 0-30 is likely fine, but 5-40 will make me 'feel' better.

For the other three cars in the family I buy whatever synthetic oil is on sale and or has a rebate. I have some Valvoline and NAPA synthetic in the garage now. NAPA oil is bottled by Valvoline. They likely have the same base stock, but the NAPA likely has less of an additive package. I paid $3.23 a quart for the NAPA oil and .99 for the Valvoline (rebate at Checker).

I have an 86 Mustang SVO that I put a few thousand miles on a year. I change the oil and filter every 12 to 15 months.

I also have an 04 Chevy Tracker V6 that is a daily commuter. I change the oil and filter about every 6 or 7 months with between 5K and 7K miles on the oil.

Finally, I have a 99 Trooper V6 with 137K miles on it. This particular vintage of Trooper engine has a design flaw were there are too few and/or to small of holes in the oil rings on the pistons which cause oil to be trapped and burned in combustion. It has always used a quart of oil every 500 to 700 miles since new. The Trooper has been a very good vehicle with very few problems. It's tough and overbuilt. I four 4 wheel it at over 13,000 feet in Colorado and take in on the rocks in Moab. I also pull a 22 foot travel trailer with it. On long steep pulls I have to use low range and pull at 45 mph and 5,000 rpms. Far from ideal, but it works! You will see lots of Troopers around with over 200K miles. You'll also see lots of Trooper with blow engines or new engines. This is due to their owners not regularly checking there oil and running them low enough that they seize up. I'm telling you this to help explain why I currently have 22K miles and 16 months since I changed it's oil. This seems like a lot, but due to burning oil I've put in over 30 quarts during that time, or six oil changes. I could just keep adding oil and not change it I suppose, but I want to change the filter. Since I have to get oily changing the filter I think I might as well do the oil too, especially since I have the next to free Valvoline around to put in it! In the past I've changed the oil on the Trooper between 6 months and 12 months.

Oh, for filters I use NAPA Gold most the time, but if there is a very good sale on something else I'll use them. NAPA Gold have a lot of filter media in them. You can readily feel the weight difference when you pick them up. They cost $5-$6 rather than the $10-$11 for Mobil 1 or K&N which are likely the best filters that are easily available.

OK, that's all I know/believe about oil and like I titled it - it's likely more than you ever wanted to know!

Mark

 

Actually, that's just what you've got in an R56:


From Here (PDF warning, but it is great, for a press release)
So, it really does seem that all the oil being cycled anywhere is being filtered in the 2007's and later. To be honest, the little advances like that peppered through this engine, and a lot of newer engines, made me a little ancy about buying a newer car. The water pump is on demand as well on this car, it is driven by a friction gear, eliminating the thermostat. Neither use a throttle plate, and from the PDF above, I believe the turbo motor does not have one. The normally aspirated one only uses it if the variable intake valve system fails. With all of the new tech in most of them, it is unlikely that they will all work for say, 200K miles. All new engines have these quirks, well designed and well tested ones usually do not have devastating ones. My hope is, that everyone figures out preventative maintenance and mechanical workarounds to mitigate any problems that occur.

The Peugeot 207 hotrods have had this engine since 2006, has anyone more lingually talented than I garnered any information from their boards?

 

Here's my take ,after alot of reading, the oil molecules in conventional oil are mixed with good and great and average performing oil molecules. That's because that's how the oil is configured naturally. The average ones break down sooner by heat and age.They aren't working anymore and are just taking up space so they reduce lube performance from the quantity left. They also contaminate the rest of the oil with broken molecule bodies. The synthetic oils are made with only great molecules so they all perform great and the quantity in your engine can last longer.Heres a shot of a bottle of good oil.

 

Nice summarization Mark. BTW, that's a great site for motorheads and non-motorheads alike. Great way to cut through the "market development" hype.