Mark's post above is an excellent synopsis of what one could learn from visiting www.bobistheoilguy.com Thanks so much for taking the time to post all of that information while remaining objective about it at the same time. Something about these oil base stock discussions brings out the worst in people sometimes...

My experience with the castrol is that my car used to burn it but doesn't burn RL 5-30. Also, when I'm on the track and my oil temps are getting near 180 celsius, I'm glad I've got RL in there.

mb

 

I always thought that:

1. The additives got used up before the oil broke down, and that's why oil should be changed. (at least with synthetics)

2. That typically the filter needed changing more frequently than the oil (I believe an Amsoil claim that you could leave the same oil in your engine for 100,000 miles if you changed the filter regularly)

3. That Mercedes was working on a sealed engine that never needed an oil change at all.

This has been an interesting discussion, and it would be great if they took a fleet of R56's and drove them at the same speed and temp for 100,000 miles each with a different oil and filter, and then took them apart to see which showed more wear. But that probably won't happen, so I think I'll just stick with my plan of at least once a year or every 5,000 miles (with one earlier change).

A manufacturer cannot deny a warranty for a filter unless they provide it for free, which maybe is the reason for free maintenance during the warranty period. So I'll stick with MINI's filter till the warranty runs out.

I'll likely be driving a different car long before any of this comes into play anyway.

Thanks for the responses.

 

There is an error in that link. The correct link is:

http://www.psa-peugeot-citroen.com/d...1103281940.pdf

 

The MINI branded Castrol 5-30w that you get at the MINI dealer says, "Made in U.S. from domestic and imported components".

The remaining question in my mind has to do with oil weight ratings. It has been said that USA 5-30 is thinner than the European 5-30 that is recommended for the MINI. It has also been said that USA 0-40 is the approximate equivalent to European 5-30. I'd like to know if this is true.

Also, since the MINI branded oil is made in the USA, is it to USA 5-30 or European 5-30?

Boggled minds want to know.

 

And I just threw away 5 quarts of the crap, and bought 53 airline tickets to Germany (only 3 ounces allowed on carryon).

 

Robin,

I'd be willing to bet that MINI 5-30 is simply USA made Castrol 5-30 in a MINI bottle. I haven't priced MINI oil at the dealer, but I'm also willing to go out on a limb and bet that it is more expensive that Castrol 5-30. I have not heard of there being a difference in weights between European oils and USA oil. I believe that they use the same standard. I do know there is a viscosity range for each grade and that therefore some 5-30s are 'thicker' than others. However, since chemical engineer types have defined the grades I don't think I'd sweat which end of the range an oil was at.

When I was a teenager I had a friend who had a 1968 Plymouth RoadRunner with a 383 V8 that had somewhere between 100K and 200K very hard miles on it - many at the drag strip. He used to change his oil with the used oil from his father's pickup. His father ran his pickup on good old 10-30 Pennzoil Dino and changed it every 6,000 miles. Now you may cringe at this practice, but hey it was much better than not changing his oil with used oil since the oil that was in the car had already had 'double' usage from the last time he graced it with his father's ex-pick oil!

The old RoadRunner ran fine without smoking for about three years and was running especially well the night it rolled over! (Unfortunately its strong point was not turning.)

So my point is (yes I do have a point) that even "chunky" style old school cira 1968 motor oil is "adequate" for some applications. Then again a 1968 RoadRunner Magnum 383 may have more in common with a Model T engine than the direct injected turbo MCS engine. For one thing I think the tolerances are a might tighter in the MCS engine, but boy could that old 383 smoke it's bias ply tires!

There's a thought - once we are tired of debating the merits of 'real' synthetic oil vs. 'fake' synthetic oil we can rehash the merits of radial vs bias tires!

Mark

 

If the bottle doesn't indicate ACEA A3/B3 & BMW LL-01 specs, don't buy it! The German oil is rated for both.

 

And the German Castrol is indeed a full synthetic as the US made material has a processed dino oil for a base. To completely different processes.

 

This was posted months ago, but time to bring it up to date with the latest info we have gleaned. Even though both are blended in the USA, MINI 5W-30 is not the same as the USA 5W-30 Castrol Syntec you would find in auto supply and discount stores in the USA. The MINI 5W-30 has an ACEA A3/B3 rating which is a higher viscosity at operating temp than the USA Syntec with an ACEA A1/A5 B1/B5 rating. Also, USA 5W-30 Syntec lacks the BMW LL-01 rating for long life.

There is a USA 0W-30 Syntec that meets ACEA A3/B3 & BMW LL-01, but be sure to check the label before buying.

You are comparing very different engines. There are vast differences between a Mid-Century V8 and a turbocharged direct injection 1.6 liter engine from the 21st Century.

The issue isn't really "fake" synthetic vs. "true" synthetic. The issue is the specifications that are best for the MINI's engine, and they are ACEA A3/B3 & BMW LL-01.

 

Nope--you've got it wrong. It has to be packaged in 3 ounce containers, and all the containers have to fit in a quart size plastic bag, like a Ziplok.

Now that you've got extra airline tickets, how 'bout making a deal with me?


(There might be a haz-mat issue, though!)

 

I just did a search at Mobil 1 for the spec's mentioned and found out that the Mobil 1 0W-40 has these spec's. Funny that the 0W-30 doesn't.

And the European Castrol 0W-40 has the same rating but the US spec 0W-30 does not.

 

Yep, Mobil 1 0W-40 is the only flavor I've found that carries both of those specs. German Castrol 0W-30 also too. I lean towards the GC vs. Mobil 1. But both are fine oils. Specs don't lie!

don't let that 0W fool you. It's not a "thin" oil. good info here:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...643#Post718643

 

Mini USA recommended that exact oil when I talked to them 2 months ago.

 

They will recommend the European spec Castrol 0-30 oil, not the US spec.

 

That's not what they recommended at the time I called. It was just regular Castrol Syntec 5w 30 (the picture posted earlier in the thread).

 

The Castrol USA web site says that SAE 0W-30 Syntec:

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...tentId=6006933

 

This is a related question so here goes. I can't figure out my oil level and the picture in the manual does not match the actual dip stick. I have never had so much trouble on such a simple thing. I have a 2007 MCS. The actual dip stick has the long arrow head raised metal part, then a raised metal bead and then some more space and a second raised metal bead. In the manual, the arrow head is very short compared to mine but I get it. Just below the end of the arrow is a "min" arrow in the manual and is slightly above the 1st raised bead. My oil level is just beyond this and right on the first raised metal bead. The oil level is a inch away from the last raised metal bead further down the stick. The manual shows "max" and just before the last bead but only really shows the one bead but mine has two beads. Bottom line, I can't figure out if I am low or I might be just a hair over "max". Low makes more sense but I'm so confused and my digital camera is not working. Can any one relate or understand this post?.

 

Spot on Matey!

 

Don't you wish you had one of the newer BMWs without a dip stick at all?

I share your confusion--hope someone will enlighten us.

 

Then it sounds to me like the person you talked to wasn't up on the req'd spec's.

 

Ignore the "arrowhead". The space between the beads is where the oil level should be. For this discussion, consider the dipstick has the arrowhead pointed towards the ground and the handle is up.

I'm not sure whether the top or bottom of the beads are the indicator levels, but I think it is safe to consider the minimum to be at the top of the bottom bead, and the maximum to be at the bottom of the top bead. The ideal oil lever would be at the bottom of the top bead (the bead closes to the handle).

 

Where did you find that the Syntec 0W-30 didn't meet ACEA A3 and BMWLL-01? The Castro USA page says it does.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...tentId=6006933

 

So Robin, based on your detailed explanation and thank you very much, I am at minimum. Should I add some oil to get closer to maxium. If so and getting back on topic and since I am only adding a 1/2 quart or so, will the US Castrol 5 30 work and do I have to still look for the "German Specs" or something similar.

 

As has been described here and in several other threads, ACEA A3 oils are preferred. For top-ups, your owner's manual says any synthetic at API SH or better is sufficient. (SH is now an obsolete rating, the current API ratings are SJ, SL, and SM. I wouldn't use anything less than SM in an R56, SM is for 2004 or newer gasoline engines.)

 

If yours is at the minimum mark, you are down one qt. I believe you should add oil. With only 4.5 qts., that means you are running with only 78% of what you should have. If you are unsure about whether it is 1 qt. or 1/2 qt. add about 1/3 qt. and wait five minutes for it to all flow down to the sump. Then measure it again. If it a third of the way up to the max bead, you were about a qt. down. If it is more like 2/3 of the way up, you were down 1/2 qt. Try not to over-fill it, as that can damage the engine (according to the manual). Just how much overfill is required to cause damage is a subject of debate here. A tiny bit probably wont do any harm.

For myself, I would want to stick with ACEA A3, especially when adding a full qt. I would also want to stick to BMW LL-01 unless I was planning on doing an oil change soon. However, I tend to be more cautious on these things than others.

Edit: Castrol 5W-30 does not meet A3, but USA Castrol Syntec 0W-30 might. The Castrol web page says it does. If I couldn't get MINI brand, I'd look for that. If all else failed I'd consider Mobil 1 0W-40, or Valvoline Synthetic 5W-40, but I'd be sure to check the labels.