So I'm at 2160 and did my first oil change. Used 5 qts of Mobil 1 0w40 and the whole job took about an hour and a half.

First thing I noticed was how small the Mini oil filter was!!! I traded in a GMC 2500HD CC LB w/ Duramax/Allison for my Mini and the filters on that thing were huge compared to this. I thought I had the wrong filter at first but it was correct (heck, the fuel filter on the truck was way bigger as well!). First problem I had was getting the coolant tank to stay up and to the left. I figured that out easily enough but kinda a PITA. Then I was a little concerned that it took so many turns to release the seal on the filter housing. It's a very snug fit from the factory (note: when putting it back on it has a positive stop, so it's easy to tell when to stop tightening).

Next issue was figuring out how to jack it up with only the supplied jack. I used jack stands but had to jack up the front first, as far as it would go, using the cleat. Put a jack stand under the frame rail. Then moved to the back and did the same thing. Tried doing the 2x4 method but that will definitely jack your trim (I nicked mine just a little bit but hardly noticeable). Car jacked, I went for the drain plug.

Draining was as easy as expected. I let it drain quite a bit, noticed just a little oil had run down onto the floor from the filter housing and wiped that up easily. Used a tiny eyeglass screwdriver to pry off the old compressing ring from the plug, put the new one in and tightened by hand. I don't have an allen socket for my torque wrench so I just got it good and tight without going nuts.

Filter housing was a no brainer too. no oil came gushing out like I'm used to on other cars I've had, which was nice. The filter clips into the housing too, so you kinda have to pull the old one out (it doesn't just drop out, making it convenient when removing the housing). Oil the new gasket and snap the new filter into the housing and tighten by hand as far as I could, then used the socket to carefully tighten the rest of the way. Like I said earlier, there's a positive stop so it's easy to know how far to tighten.

Started her up, let it run, checked the oil like 8 times, figured it had to be right with all 5 qts in it, so I closed it up and took it for a spin. Holy Cow! Is it me or is the car *way* faster now with new oil!!! I'd be afraid to wash it *and* do the oil at the same time!

Anyway, pretty easy. Thanks to everyone here for all the great information!

[edit]
Spent 20 minutes looking for a @#$% 8mm socket for the water tank!!! Can you believe I have every size on either side of 8mm in both standard and deep sockets, but no 8's?!?!? Pisser!!! Used a 5/16 instead and it was close enough. I think it's time to do a tool inventory!

 

What's the recommended / required oil weight and brand?
Isn't Castrol suggested for use as well?

- Erik

 

My Mini dealer says there is synthetic oil in it.

Dave

 

Most all the European cars recommend, even require synthetic oils, otherwise, they couldn't go the 10 - 15K between oil changes. I am not 100% certain, but I believe that BMW/MINI requires 5 w 30wt in synthetic.

 

Yes there is and it is required. In fact most "synthetic" oils on the US market do not even meet the requirements that MINI/BMW put on the required oils to be used.

There is a lot of info on this in many thread here on NAM.

 

*The oils listed below meet MINI’s Long-life rating and are acceptable for use in MINIs in the US market with gasoline engines.

Long-life rating LL-01 Approved Synthetic Oils for the US Market
- Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30
- Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
- Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
- Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30

*This data is from:MINI Owners Lounge then --- WARRANTY / MAINTENANCE / ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE
https://ol.miniusa.com/auth/Warranty.aspx
Log-in required

 

Thanks Ron-s mini! Nice to have the info in one place. I plan to change my oil soon and that list will come in handy!

 

I have a 2009 Clubman S and am attempting an oil change...have lots of experience doing BMW 3 series changes. BUT, this drain plug is ODD! It seems to be tapered hex of some type...8 mm hex seems slighly small and 10 mm hex is too large...some special hex needed?
Thanks muchly.
HDS

 

Mine takes an 8mm hex - I use a socket so I can use either a big ratchet or breaker bar - it was in there tight, but not a problem. If your 8mm seems loose, try a 5/16 to see if it's any tighter fit. Also, if you're worried it may have been buggered up, buy a new drain plug. If you buy your filter at the dealer it will come with a new o-ring for the cannister and a new seal for the drain plug.

I don't raise my car up, my drain pan fits under the sump easily. I break the plug loose, slip the pan under and take the plug out by hand. I get a little hot oil on my hand, but it's not a problem. If you're worried about getting burned, wear a latex glove or use a shop rag around your hand to protect it.

I also put a shop rag under the filter to catch what little oil comes out, that way I don't have to clean up the mess....

 

I took my 2009 Cooper S to my MINI dealer this past week (the high pressure fuel pump crapped out at 6250 miles--that's another post). Anyways, the head mechanic talked to me for about 15 minutes about best practices. He said to use fully synthetic 5W-30, either Castrol of Mobile1.

He also said that MINIs really burn through the oil and the best thing you can do for your car is to change the oil at least once between dealer maintenance visits. He recommended changing it every 5000 miles. Also, use MINI parts, no knock-offs. They may be a tad more expensive but there will be no warranty issues if you have to take your car in for other issues.

 

Interesting that you got that 5k oil change advice from a mechanic at the dealer. It does fit with many of the discussions on this board about oil changes. Lots of folks think that 15k is way too long between oil changes.

 

For those of us who don't want to change it ourselves and live a long way from a dealer (125 miles) any suggestions. If I just buy some filters from Mini wouldn't someone like Jiffy Lube have Sythetic oil (Castrol) if I took it there or should I buy the oil as well and take it with me.

 

If you don't want to do it yourself, I wouldn't bring it to Jiffy Lube, I'd find a mechanic nearby who you trust.

I personally haven't had good luck with drive through oilchange places, I've had them leave the oil cap off and the engine blew oil all over the engine bay, they've smeared gunk on my oil dipstick and tried to sell me an engine flush, They've told me that they couldn't turn off the "sevice engine" light (it indicates that an oil change is due) on my Volvo, when I'd called ahead and talked to the manager to make sure they had the special tool, he'd assured me that they had the tool, but wasn't there when I had my oil changed.

This has been at different oil change places, I won't go to one again.

Dave

 

So, I'm at 15,250 and took the Clubby in today. Dealer told me to come back next week as I was 4 days away from 1 year old and wouldn't do it now. Lame.

 

Jiffy Lube will probably not carry the correct oil for the Cooper. I would not go there to have them change it. Take it to a mechanic along the correct filter and oil.