Does anyone else have a squeeking problem when putting the top back up?

After a few K, mine started squeeking alot when I closed the top, so when I went to Global for other problems, I told them about it and they apparently lubed it and it temporarily stopped. Pretty soon, it started all over again and has been doing it ever since, and I don't want to deal with a service appointment to temporarily solve it again.

 

Sometimes I notice mine squeeks when I put the top up, usually after it's been down for a while. It doesn't really bother me since it's always when I'm done driving! There have been a couple threads about fixing it yourself, do a search for convertible squeek.

 

Not so much of a squeak but a haunted house moan and creak. Scared the crap out of me the first time I heard it, but everything seems to be working ok. Mine usually after its been down for a while.

 

It is mainly the fact that tops is down for a period of time, if yiu cycle it a few times it will stop.

 

The dealer "lubed" mine, but it still squeeks. The Tech said it's "just the way it is". I agree with him. Sometimes it squeeks, sometimes it doesn't. what can you do... For all the fun we have topless I'll deal with the 15 seconds of ear piercing squeal.

 

Mine squeaks I'm used to it. To me it's just a reminder that the Mini wants to have it's top down & all times & is fighting with you when you try to put it up

 

Well i know the problem and I can tell you how to fix.
First, when the top is up and you push on one side where the top rail meets above the glass, that where it makes the noise all the MINI dealers will do is lub it, which does not work.
What you will have to do, is take off with top up the plastic cover coving the rear rail, thats where the bend is and makes a noise due to the gap between the two joint( bad design) . You will have to have a rubber washer that will go between the two rail joints wher you take it apart and the washer has to be flat not thick where it will inhibit the summer postion.
Taking the washer and putting inbetween makes up for the gap(usally on the rear drivers side. The desing of the joint is it has a notch when extended in summer postion, the notch meets the stop bar on the bend joint that is the problem the washer does not allow the metal on metal noise when the top jostels back and forth. After you boalt it back you will have to snap the plastic back and your done. This is done by mvng the top back half way to reach the joint after you remove the panel.
Thats it.
By no way is this BMW MINI offical fix, and i pose no warrenty on work. Which heans its up to you. If you are not used to working on BMWs and MINIs dont try this.

 

Mike, could you edit your response so that we can decipher the steps you're trying to tell us? Sorry but what you wrote is very confusing. There's something there that we really want to try and understand. Thanks

 

Its not in simple term, you have to figure I have been working on BMWs way before the NEW MINI was in the states. In this figure you will find the top.
On part #1 , driver side(this is for the top rattle noise when closed), on the 3rd joint (which is where the top bend above the rear glass) is where the rattle happens. If you look close you can see the notch and bar discussed.
I wish i had a better pic.
The rest refer to before.

 

Oh, we thought you were talking about the squeaking noise that happens as the top is being put up.

 

postion. The squeeling pig sound as I like to call it in the same joints but due to the type of nylon plastic which dries causes the plastis rubbing on metal sound, most of the joints do this, i think gummyfledge would work but i have heard wd40 and some silcone lubs would do the job better then just the spray lube the dealer is using (which is some type of silcone spray). The up and down method works also, after its been down for a while.

 

So exactly where in your diagram would you apply one of these lubes? TIA!!!

 

its easy.
You can hear were it makes the noise.