I would like to know if the MM Lower Stress Bar for the MCS (R53) also fit on the MCSc (R52)? MM website doesn't mention R53. Thanks!

 

No reason Why it should not...If you call Mason Engineering, they are the OEM and can tell you. Ireland also sells the same one too!!
Nice effect from the couple of folks that I know that have it...They like it...the change is kinda subtle, but noticeable.
http://www.masonengineering.net/Subp...iCooperR53.htm

 

I thought it should fit but wanted to make sure. George from Mini Madness just confirmed that it does. My Cabrio hasn't any kind of chassis brace yet so this the first step. Hopefully it'll lessen some of the cowl shake.

 

The TSW X brace will do a whole lot more to eliminate cowl shake than this will.

 

When I installed the cabrio underhood oem braces on my hardtop it did...very noticable on railroad crossings, subtle most of the time. I think you will find the above brace "sharpens" up the car a bit...more than the omp, but less then the TSW x brace, that while nice, is said to add a bit nvh and reduce ground clearance a bit. I think the mason/mm brace is the best compermise of the bunch for a daily driver. As soon as I can save up a few $$, it is on my List".

 

Zippy - MM LSB is on sale right now... that's why I decided to get it.

MINI - X Brace is better but a bit expensive... 3x the MM LSB right now.

 

You get what you pay for. I challenge any customer to compare any brace to our X brace. You'll find the X brace works 3x as well.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/tsw-xbrace.html

 

Actually I got it from a higher authority that your brace works 10x better than any out there.

I know I'm getting junk... but sufficient for my need. thank you

 

Don't know why I waited this long to have the MM Lower Stress Bar installed. Car feels solid, AND NO MORE DASH SQUEEKS. I'm sure WMW X brace is a great product, but MM is down the street from me and George has treated me right.

 

I've had this on for a few years now and love it. It certainly does make a difference.

 

Will this bar fit my Mini GP? I think the X-brace is most suited for cars that see the track and convertibles, I think the MM bar is more within my needs for my DD GP (read, fits my budget).

BTW, the X-brace is nothing new. This was a BMW factory part on the E36 M3 convertible. I put one on my E36 M3 coupe and it added some peace of mind. I don't know if it helped my coupe as much, but I do know it helped reduce the cowl shake in the verts. So that much should tell you it does work. So applying the same design to the mini is nothing but a great idea!

 

Your JCW is a 1st gen, so yes, it will fit.

 

JT///MC
Yes this will fit on your GP. I have one on mine. The TSW X brace would not fit without modification of your underbody paneling on the GP.
I opted to also install the GTT mid brace along with the lower brace and IMHO think the combination works as well as the TSW X brace. The Mid brace bolts in four locations, not two like the X brace, and really stiffens up the middle of the car. I noticed a good improvement installing each of these seperately and believe that the sum of all the parts is the best application.
Steve

 

Thanks for confirming fitment Itch! Did it create more nvh or reduce the rattles? That is one thing that bothers me a bit about the R53 vs the wife's R56. Seems like her chasis is more rigid from the get go so there is a lot less rattling goig on over unsettling patches of road. But then again my GP is about 10x more fun to drive than her MCS lol!

 

Just placed order for a the MM bar! Yay!

 

BTW, just wanted to add that BMW employs very similar bracing structures in their M5, M6, and M3. And I have to say, their bracing is not all welded together. They actually have it modular. So to say that b/c its a 2 or 3 piece design is inferior, I'm not sure about that. They don't even employ a strut brace across the towers, but instead use two braces bolted from one tower to the middle of the firewall area. So I think any type of bracing helps.

Also wanted to add, and I'm not comparing b/c its apples to oranges, but the M5 is extremely structurally rigid. There is literally like no rattling that goes on when I hit major ruts in the road. Its quite amazing. When you go under the car, you will see a lot of undercarriage chasis bracing from the front to the rear. So naturally, I think we should employ the same logic here and brace our Minis. It could only help, not hurt.

 

JT///MC
Your welcome. All of the bracing that I have done have reduced rattles and have not added any NVH. I have worked out all the rattles in my car except a slight glove box rattle going over a severe bump. I'm still working on that one. With each step of bracing the car feels more planted and I believe is helping to allow the suspension to work properly. I am pretty particular and if something does not do what it is designed to do I will remove it and find something that works.
A quick note on the install of the lower strut brace. Take the hardware (if you get it) and throw it in the trash can. The lower controll arm bushing attachment bolt is a one time use bolt so you will need two replacement bolts from MINI. When you remove the existing bolts use those for the front mounting points. You will have to shorten these so they do not bottom out in the new location.
Steve

 

Thanks for the tips Steve. So basically toss the included hardware and get new stretch bolts from the dealer? And don't use the threaded inserts and nuts? Just wondering if there have been some bad experiences with the included hardware in other posts that I'm not aware of? I agree with not reusing the stretch bolts for the control arm mountig point but am not sure if I have the tools to cut them down to reuse for the front mounting points so unless there is a absolute reason not to use the threaded inserts and nuts, then I'm leaning towards using those in the included hardware.

Thanks for your advice and confirming the nvh. I'm lookin forward to working out all the minor details in my GP. It's an excellent little road car that's absolutely a blast to drive. All it needs is new tires and a tune and I'm done!

 

I had one of the bolts loosen on me. My mech just swapped it with a regular bolt and tightened it up. It hasn't loosened since.

 

Ok, sounds good. I'm sold on getting new stretch bolts then!

Thanks everyone!

 

JT///MC
Yes there are problems with the included hardware. If you do a search you will come up with info. I, along with others, had failures on the included threaded inserts and nuts. They did not supply plated hardware and it rusted instantly. I am not sure what grade it is but I had one of the front mounting studs shear off. All you need to shorten the original stretch bolts is a vise, hacksaw, and a file to redress the leading threads. Just measure the depth of the front mounts and make them slightly shorter. The stock stretch bolts are plated and of the correct grade and I have not had any problems with them since. It is also a good idea to re torque after going for a spin.
Steve

QUOTE=JT///MC;3366578]Thanks for the tips Steve. So basically toss the included hardware and get new stretch bolts from the dealer? And don't use the threaded inserts and nuts? Just wondering if there have been some bad experiences with the included hardware in other posts that I'm not aware of? I agree with not reusing the stretch bolts for the control arm mountig point but am not sure if I have the tools to cut them down to reuse for the front mounting points so unless there is a absolute reason not to use the threaded inserts and nuts, then I'm leaning towards using those in the included hardware.

Thanks for your advice and confirming the nvh. I'm lookin forward to working out all the minor details in my GP. It's an excellent little road car that's absolutely a blast to drive. All it needs is new tires and a tune and I'm done![/QUOTE]