How do I get Brigid on jack stands

where do i place my floor jack to get the stands under the jack points

 

There is a circular dimple about 4in inboard just in front of the A panel door panel seem I jack up there and put the stands under the chalks. When you put the stands under just put them perpendicular to the chalk and you should be set.

Some people doa 2x4 between the chalks jack it up and slip the stands under if you search you may find some more info on it, also a few of the how-tos int he sticky in the preformance mod section have photos and a slightly different method.

 

Yeah - I started off jacking on the "bumps" to the inside front of the front jack point - but noticed that one of mine has distorted a bit.

So now I'm using a piece of 2x4 about 3 feet long right under the flat part of the skirt between the jack points - with my race jack under the middle of that... I like this way much better personally - very fast, very easy, no problems so far...

 

I use the same method

 

so are you guys saying you put the 2x4 on your jack points, jack the car up in the middle of the 2x4, and then put the jack stands under the 2x4?? Can the 2x4 really hold the weight of the car?

 

I think what they are trying to say is

Cut a piece of 2x4 the length of the space between your stock jack points.

Now, place the 2x4 between the jack points.

jack it in the middle using the 2x4 to distribute the weight of the car betwwen the space between jack points.

Take jack stands and place them underneath the stock jack points.

lower slowly.

 

Exactly. So the 2x4 distributes the load along the bottom of the side near the seam.

 

That's a GREAT idea... I was wondering how to do this as well - I;ll need to get the car up on stands in the spring for a project I'm working on and was wondering. So there's solid metal under the plastic trim between the jack points, I take it? Never seen the trim panels off the car so I'm not 100% sure.

Thanks!!

 

get the car high, use a jack stand at the rear jack point and under a hardpoint on the subframe. I'll be using the 2x4 method as I need to drop the subframe.

Matt

 

Yeah, I started the 2x4 method just because I was mushing my frame... but now I LOVE it - it is SOOOOO much easier and faster than the old way I used to jack it - I don't have to look under the car and try to find the right spot - and it goes up nice and even, instead of higher in the front than the rear...

I'm a little cautious, because I guess theoretically the car COULD slip off the 2x4 as you get it pretty high and the angle of the sill on the 2x4 is changing - but I watch it carefully and I have the stands ready and at the right height - so I can quickly slip them under (without getting any of my body parts in a risky position) then lower onto the stands - but really, so far I haven't seen any sign of it shifting on the jack or on the 2x4... I'm probably just being paranoid.

 

I'd call that being safe!

 

^^ better safe than sorry ^^

 

Blimey, have you ever jacked up BOTH sides with this method? How was jacking the second side (after one side was secure on stands) while using the 2X4 method?

Thanks again!!

 

Yes. Just be carefull and watch out for any shifting on the other side while jacking it up.

that goes for any method.

 

Yep. Did it last weekend to get on 4 stands for brake pad install and wheel rotation. Easy, easy, easy. Just works. I can literally take my car from the ground to 4 stands in 2 minutes and be safe while doing it. I could do it in under a minute if there was money riding on it...

 

So, just to be 100% clear on this, the 2X4 ends are not resting on the jack points, but between them and the weight is distributed evenly along the body seam. Correct? Does anyone have pics for those of us who are paranoid and visually-challenged? Thanks!

 

You are correct. My 2x4 is probably a 9-12" shorter than the distance between the jack points. It just slides right under the black plastic cover on the sill. Near the back it actually hits some part under there that keeps it from sliding 100% of the way under - but it goes 100% under near the front and about 90% under near the back jack point. Race jack with large pad goes under the middle of the 2x4 and up she goes.

 

Excellent!! Many thanks to all for good advice!!

 

I also use the 2x4 method - but unlike Blimey I got scared when jacking both sides. Instead of jacking it all at once I alternated between sides - just a 4-step process instead of 2.

T

 

Thanks for the information! I have been using my jack points to lift up the vehicle, but this takes some time.

 

You know, now that I think about it, the car actually gets *more* level on the 2x4 the higher you jack the second side - so it may actually be less risky on the second side than it is on the first...

 

wow you guys are grate, thanks for the info

will the 2X4 method work with the MINI aero kit? i think it will but not suer

 

Ok, if I'm understanding this right, you're not using the car jack but a floor jack? I went to try to rotate my tires for the first time. . and forgot I don't have a spare. I don't have a floor jack, and I don't see a good spot for jack stands at the back- and they barely fit under the stiffening bar that runs diagonally to the back center of the car (this is on a cabrio, not sure if that bar is on the coupe).

So, any ideas for doing tire rotation using the standard MINI car jack? I can't see paying someone to do it, seems like the additional tire life I get will be mostly if not all offset by the cost of paying for the rotation. I just went out and looked and see a frame member just behind the front jacking point that I might be able to get the jack stand under. Anyone used it?

 

To do just a front/rear tire rotation, the front jack point will lift both wheels on one side of the car. I'd prefer to do a proper criss-cross rotation but this is really easy so I don't procrastinate about getting it done.

I don't trust the flimsy plastic jack points. There have been several accounts of the plastic block breaking off while lifting, and the side skirt damaged as it hits the jack. I put a piece of 2x4 just behind the jack point to distribute the load and use it for both the jack and the stand.

 

With modern tires a "Criss-Cross" rotation is not recomended. The tires are directional and should be rotated front-to-back only.

Using the 2x4 lifting method you can use the jack-point for a jack-stand.

Remember to "crack" the lug bolts while the tires are still on the ground, raise the car up, install (2) jack-stands, lower car onto the stands and have fun rotating your tires. Final torque of your lug nuts should be done with your tires back on the ground.

T