This thread may be better suited for some other area on NAM, but since I'm a DCMM'r, I'll just start here.

Today, I replaced the "utility box" underneath my dash. The AUX input was originally located here. Several months ago I moved the input to the Euro shelf and that left 3 holes that were quite an eyesore. The process of replacing this piece led to several discoveries about my '06.

I started by researching a few articles. MINI2 has a faq on removing "interior bits", and I also found the drawings on RealOEM helpful. (I"ll post URL's at the end)

The 2006 interior "bits", or at least my 2006, are different from everything I've seen. They've been redesigned in a more interlocked way. So, you can't remove one piece without removing practically everything else!!!

DOWNTUBES!!! There are a lot of instructions, but I haven't found any that are accurate for 2006. My downtubes DO NOT come out from the top and there are no foam inserts on the bottom. My downtubes are actually flared out along the bottom edge so as to make them too large to slide up through the holes. The entire piece that surrounds the shifter must be removed in order to pull the downtubes through from the bottom. The instructions on MINI2 do a good job of showing how to remove this part but I found the mirror adjuster/heated seat control to require a lot of effort to remove. Finally, I had to be real creative to slide the utility box out past the partially removed downtube. Sliding the new unit in was equally challenging.

CLIPS!!! Yeh, THOSE clips... the blue ones that fall off if you breath too closely. I broke one and it fell out. I fortunately had a spare.

I managed to get everything back in and the new piece looks as good as new!

I hope this information is helpful to other '06 owners. I wanted to add this to the collective knowledge that Edge, ssallykat, Paul! and I now have.

Does anyone else have something different they can report about their '06 (or late model '05)?

The URLs:
MINI2 - Removing the downtubes
RealOEM - Center Console

Peace

 

On my '06, the STP oil filter I bought at autozone didn't fit in the journal inside the cannister (had to be jammed on) and the O-ring that came with it was too big for its lip. I don't know if the STP filters fit earlier models, but they certainly don't fit mine. So I tossed it out. (but NAPA's filters are nice. Same price as the STP, half the price of Fram, and a good fit)

 

the last thing I'd ever try to save money on is an oil filter, just my opinion though

 

My 04 & 06 S use the same filter. I get OEM filters from the dealer for about $8. I don't see any reason to go second rate on them.

 

What makes you think an aftermarket filter, NAPA for example, would be inferior to an OEM one?

 

The downtubes were redesigned mid 2005, for some of '05 and all of '06 production - here's something that discusses it:
http://www.gbmini.net/mtblog/archive..._downtub.shtml

 

depends who's making the OEM one, but the construction varies from company to company quite a bit.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=6;t=002456

 

Excellent!

 

Good information in the supplied links. It confirmed my personal observations in that I avoid Fram like the plague and have been using Purolator for years with no issues.

 

who said anything about saving money? Near my house, there's a kragen and about 400 yards down the street, there's an autozone. I usually go to the autozone for the cheap, dispensible parts like filters and light bulbs and specialty cleaners and adhesives because they're usually well-stocked and polite, and slightly edge out kragen's prices for the same brands. For items that are less purely commodity in nature -- hoses, wires, etc. -- kragen is uaully better. Although now that I know there's a Napa distribution center just a few blocks past my costco, I'll probably go there more often now.

Anyway, between autozone, pep boys, kragen, super autobacs, and walmart, the STP filter was the only one in stock, and only at autozone. The fram filter was available through the auto parts stores, but at a price of $17 and with a 2-3 day wait. And regardless, I didn't know about it until after I'd already purchased the STP filter, since my first stop for commodities is/was autozone Even if I had, fram has never been my first choice (mostly because AC Delco had those nice double-capacity cannisters available for the chevy 350 I grew up driving).

But it all ended up alright because I found out that Napa is still in business in my area (I though they'd totally pulled out of the region when my local store closed) and frankly, their parts are usually better than OEM, with this case being no exception. The filter fits well, has heavy plastic endcaps on both sides, and plastic ribs and rings inside the filter, reinforcing the element. As far as the exterior construction is concerned, the OEM looked pretty the same as the STP, with a paper end cap, and a much less rigid structure and lighter feel than Napa's filter.

my 2 cents, FWIW anyway.

 

would be my problem. for $7 every 5,000 miles, i don't think its a great place to save $3 by going aftermarket for an oil filter..

 

Maybe I should read the links, I've been using mostly Fram, and still do, for over 40 years without a problem. Driven several cars in excess of 200,000 miles without any oil related problems.

I guess I'm just lucky.....and I really like Fram's easy grip coating. It allows my 62 year old hands to tighten and remove the throw away type filters without using a filter wrench.

 

--You know I read the same thing that Fram makes horrible oil filters. Yet I've been using Fram oil filters for over 10 years now and I've never had oil or oil pressure problems. I agree the easy grip coating is one of the coolest things added to oil filters.

I've also heard that Napa filters are supposed to be some of the best too. I haven't seen a comparison between BMW filters and other aftermarket ones, but I'd use a BMW filter because then they can't blame the oil filter as a reason to void your warranty should you have engine problems. Just mho.

~pyratio

 

[/LIST]It sure would be handy if the FAQs describing a method of taking something apart would reference the year model that they were working on. All so often, things change. Having a reference is great but when the reader has a clue that maybe, just maybe, it might be different for their model, the comfort level goes way up since you know you aren't just being stupid.

 

yes this is absoltuely fantastic I agree!

 

I have a November '05 build and I was able to get that console piece out without removing anything else, downtubes included. I just wiggled out behind the tubes.

 

Yeh, they should. Everyone? Did you get that?