Originally Posted by Greatbear

The brake light is also the taillight, so trying to find a dual filament LED equivalent becomes even tougher.

Originally Posted by chows4us

Considering this thread https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...477#post823477
thats probably a non-starter

Originally Posted by not-so-rednwhitecooper

If stage I or II is installed by the dealer, it is covered under the standard warranty.

Stage III is the only SRT4 package that isnt covered under any warranty and is NOT a dealer installed option. You have to get the parts an have someone else install them for you!

Originally Posted by thedoctorisin

i think my best recommendation would be to get another opinion if you feel the dealer the car has been taken to is not accurate in their diag or determination of coverage. pay 1 hr checkout (which should be credited to the repair if you return there) and take your car elsewhere. if determined by another dealer to be warranty, go ask for your money back for the diag. it does not matter if they ordered a BC1, these are not coded to your particular vehicle and can be used for most other cars. if 2 dealers say the same thing, then make your move from there. if they differ in their findings, ask them to sort it out w/ MINIUSA. i honestly would rather be able to have repairs be warranty than not. if the dealer can just go ahead and fix your car w/o having to call for a $ authorization, it's easier. not to mention how many service advisors have surveys hanging over their head when they are fixing your car. so many people slam the advisor on the survey just because they had to pay for somehting they feel they shouldn't. some people always fight the dealer when they have to pay for anything; the prices are what they are, it is not "Let's Make A Deal"....HOWEVER, the relationship you foster with the dealer can help save you money over time. a cust who has always been difficult and unaccomodating (and probably gave low survey scores) will never be offered goodwill on a repair when their car is just out of warranty...they will not be offered a loaner car for an extended down-time on their car (at least not for free)....they will always pay the full price for anything not covered...
this is not an attempt to say that there are not service personnel out there that will try to rip you off or avoid covering an item which may be borderline for coverage. i can tell you this though, people that treat me well get better treatment than those that act like i have to answer to them. the guy that gives the perfect surveys and takes care of his car is more likely to get the h/l bulb replaced n/c once out of warranty than the guy that always gives the terrible survey scores and acts like somebody is trying to steal a kidney from him every time you recommend he buy something...imagine if you got surveyed at your job by every customer you dealt with. would you change the way that you handle them? you have to do your best for everybody. most svc advisors work about 12 hrs a day. that is a hell of a lot of stress to deal with. every cust that decides to make a huge ordeal out of something minor(not to downplay a $1300 estimate by any means), takes away from the level of customer service that is able to be provided to fellow MINI owners. be considerate to your dealership (if they are being considerate of you) and other MINI owners. if the dealer has determined something is not to be covered and they submit it for reimbursement anyway, they have to pay for it. did anyone really pay that much for their car that they feel the dealership fixing it should foot the bill? did they cut into wiring and install an unauthorized mod? not if they have a clue they didn't. these type of things being drawn out excessively makes the cars cost more, and the service too. you catch more flies w/ honey... if you do not trust a dealer to tell you something is not covered and give you an estimate, take your car out of there and do not go back. at that point you have already slapped them in the face. take that as good or bad. if you did not trust them, why would you take your car there in the first place? if you did trust them, why not now?
is it because you (despite knowing what you have done to your car) feel that something should be covered? try looking at it from the other side. of course, there always 2 sides to every argument
several people have put a lot of time into this thread to provide very high-quality info...maybe this can help you achieve what you need...unfortunately, posts on a website can not be used as fact, just opinion. however, the tech info provided here should provide an excellent point of reference to plead your case.

Originally Posted by kristina

I don't think that it's as simple as the turn signal/parking light feature. The right tail light was on, then after a few hours, the front right round light (driving light?) came on.

Here's a question. As I said before, I had the hazards on for 10-15 minutes prior to this whole thing happening. Does the brake light mod affect how the hazard lights flash. Could this have overloaded the BC1?

I'm really at a loss about this. Mini of SF has already ordered the BC1 to install. To add insult to injury, they are also charging me for a new battery. I simply lack the technical knowledge to argue my case properly, if I even have a case.

Originally Posted by mattcoon

I had the same thing happen. i was driving home and had my right blinker on to make a turn, as i hit the brake, the blinking doubled in speed. I figured the lamp blew, but when i got home, the right side lights would not turn off, even with the lights off and everything locked. i left it as i was late for something. when i came back there was a terrible electronic burning smell. i pulled the fuses so the bc1 would stop the direct short to ground, removed the brake light mod, and the IanCull autoup circuit. The next morning i drove to the dealer and it was replaced under warranty. I put the autoup back in, but the brake mod must be very marginal to the output drivers on the BC1 and once in a while or over time cause the output driver to fail.

Originally Posted by chrisneal

i know i'm responding to an old post but i just wanted to say wow, did anyone actually read this post? because i find it very very hard to read a thousand word long post when the person doesn't use any capital letters or paragraphs and goes with the stream of consciousness approach versus actually organizing their thoughts into a cohesive response. this must have taken a while to write, so personally i would try to organize it in such a way that people might actually read it. when it really comes down to it, it doesn't seem like the moss-magnusson act is worth the paper it's written on, dealers can basically make any claim they want to and take advantage of situations where someone needs their car back asap and doesn't have a wealth fo technical knowledge to draw upon to refute the dealer's claim.

Originally Posted by thedoctorisin

it's a shame you could not make a response, just an attack. if you can't figure it out, just say so. try to actually supply some info if you actually want to help somebody.
where's your caps? hypocrite and no useful input. hmmm...
enough of that.
HEY, DID ANYBODY READ THAT LITTLE STICKER THAT WAS AT THE TOP OF THE WINDSHIELD ON THE DRIVER SIDE WHEN THEY BOUGHT THE CAR???

Originally Posted by thedoctorisin

and for the guy who said his friend at another dealer covered the repair to the bc1, congrats! not everybody out there seems to realize that being nice goes a long way in terms of getting help when they need itso many people seem like they are automatically against the dealer, like they are trying to "get" them at every chance. you catch more flies w/ honey...
but then again, some dealers can be extremely shady (not intended as a reference to any particular dealer of any manufacturer)...
service is only as good as the people who provide it....

Originally Posted by cristo

I did the brake light mod a while back, and although I had no problems,
I decided to change my 1156 fog bulbs to the 1156-24R narrow led bulbs
from http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html after reading this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=50441
They're not nearly as bright as the regular bulbs, but they only draw about 1 watt
versus 21W for the stock 1156's. Also, when a conventional bulb first turns
on, it draws a lot more current the first fraction of a second until the
filament warms up, which happens every time you step on the brakes.
I wouldn't put led bulbs in the main brake light, and they're probably not
bright enough to be good fog light bulbs either, but they do a good job of
augmenting the main brake lights giving me a little more visibility to other
cars when braking. The 24 bulb leds fit in the stock tail light assembly
just fine, but the 30 bulb ones are said to be to big in diameter to fit.
Interstingly, the 19 bulb (all 19 face rearward) ones have a smidge more
axial brightness than the 24 bulb ones (which have 18 rearward pointing leds
and 6 sideways pointing ones).