R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 hard to engage first gear?

Old Jan 17, 2006 | 07:56 PM
  #1  
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hard to engage first gear?

I've tried searching for something/anything that could help me out on the boards, but I never find exactly what I'm looking for.

Sometimes it is very difficult to engage into first gear on my '06 MCS 6spd with only 500 miles. If I'm sitting in traffic, etc, I'll get it moving by using first gear and then take it out of gear and let it sit in neutral until I have to get it going again to save wear on throwout bearing/clutch/whatever. I did this earlier today and it seemed like when I wanted to put it back into first, it did not go all the way in. I slip it into neutral again, and tried to pop it back into first gear. It slips into first, but doesn't fully engage.

I thought maybe it was just my mind playing tricks on me so I try to give it a little gas to get it going, and it pops back into neutral. However when I try this time, it slips into first gear effortlessly.

Is this something I should be concerned about? It's happened twice in the last two days, and yes, my car sleeps outside in the winter cold since I'm in the progess of relocating.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 08:08 PM
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I had the same thing happen in my '05 MC. I found I could get around it by double-clutching and slipping it a little into second, then shifting to first. MINI replaced the transmission, clutch, and clutch cylinder. When I picked it up, they said the real problem was a missing clip on the clutch cylinder. Now it is starting to do the same thing on the new transmission, but with reverse. I'm moving to Florida at the end of the month, so they don't have time to fix it here, but if it gets worse, I'm going to take it in. At least its logged in MINI's database that I complained about it quickly after the transmission and clutch were replaced.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 09:14 PM
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i would give it another 500miles or so. new MT's are sometimes stubborn.

i also recommend double clutching as above.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 11:47 PM
  #4  
tattman23
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I have a 2005 MCS, though I've driven/owned only manual transmission cars for a good long time, though not all of them were purchased new. You guys that know I got a Caravan just shush, it's the "other" car.

And I don't know if this is a contribution or not but, I have noticed that though I'm a quick study, I still missed the occasional shift by just a little. I chalked it up to "figuring out" the transmission/shifts, etc - AND that there is sometimes (more so when I was in the passenger seat letting enthusiast friends drive the new MCS) a little 2nd "shove" needed to seat it in 1st. Once you are accustomed, it likely won't happen.

Prediction: 500 miles from now you'll be saying you have successfully "learned" the MCS transmission (but I do still notice when I have to "knock" the shift lever an extra time, when I'm distracted in traffic)

Kinda Wish I had an '06,
Tatt
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 03:15 AM
  #5  
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Rev. Limiter
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Suggest you give it a little time (miles). Mine was tight for the first 1k - 2k miles, but everything loosened up nicely.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 05:26 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Nics
Sometimes it is very difficult to engage into first gear on my '06 MCS 6spd with only 500 miles. If I'm sitting in traffic, etc, I'll get it moving by using first gear and then take it out of gear and let it sit in neutral until I have to get it going again to save wear on throwout bearing/clutch/whatever. I did this earlier today and it seemed like when I wanted to put it back into first, it did not go all the way in. I slip it into neutral again, and tried to pop it back into first gear. It slips into first, but doesn't fully engage.
I've never had mine pop out of 1st, but I have found it difficult to engage in the manner you describe (at a stoplight). Double-clutching usually gets things back in sync. I drove an '02 Jetta that also had this problem. I reported both problems to their respective dealership service departments, and both times they were unable to reproduce the problem. However, I found out that the Jetta (which we sold to a friend) needed to have a new clutch. That clutch *never* felt quite right.

I'd recommend you give it some time, pay attention to when and how it happens, and have the service department take a look at it. At the very least it's on your car's "permanent record". :-) It's probably nothing, but, like they say, just because you're not paranoid doesn't mean they're not after you.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 05:36 AM
  #7  
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and they did make reverse purposefully difficult to avoid accidents. . . .
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 06:00 AM
  #8  
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Couple of tips:
1. Apply light pressure and shift into 1st gear while the car is rolling at about 10mph

2. If you're shifting into 1st from a dead stop, try going into 2nd (with cluch disengaged) and then go into 1st. So clutch pressed, N, 2nd, 1st.

And the gear box does take a little while to loosen up, I say atleast 2000 miles or so before mine felt "normal".
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 12:00 PM
  #9  
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It's a synchro issue and is common amongst many cars with manual transmissions. First gear is generally a bit harder to get into...especially in my other car. However, the MINI's will loosen up a bit as it breaks in. So give it a few hundred more miles. I don't generally have the problem with my MCS anymore though first gear is still more difficult than getting into second or third gear.

On my other car, if it doesn't go into first gear, I go into second and then into first. Going into second usually opens up the gate (stops the synchro gear from spinning? I feel something rubbing usually and going into second stops it from moving). It's just a quick flick of the wrist.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 08:34 PM
  #10  
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Thanks for the input guys. I guess if it persists after break in, I'll let the dealer look at it. But lucky me, it didn't happen today. Maybe it's because it was like 70 degrees.

Oh and yes, I do double clutch.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 08:38 PM
  #11  
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Good point about the temperature. It is more difficult in cold weather until the transmission fluid warms up a bit. . .
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 08:51 PM
  #12  
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It seems to me it is easier to accidentally hit the reverse gear "detent" when going into first in my '05 MCS than it was in my '04 MCS.

Last year, a few months into ownership, I experienced a similar situation where the tranny refused to engaged into 1st gear at a traffic light. But that has been the only incident so far and like I said happened more than 10 months ago. It seemed that the tranny "believed" that I was attempting to engage reverse while at the same time wanting to go into 1st.

Today my MCS has 8,600 miles and the gearstick engages buttery smooth.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 08:52 PM
  #13  
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Also on the other hand, when I first got my '04 MCS, it was kinda hard getting into reverse, but after 1K or so miles that situation went away.

My '05 MCS has always engaged reverse easily since day 1.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 09:01 PM
  #14  
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Well, it might have been due to the temp being warmer today, but the previous days were about 50's and it's always been difficult to engage even after driving around for about half an hour or so.

Maybe I'm a weakling, but I have to use both hands to get my little Cherise into reverse.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 09:18 PM
  #15  
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Nics, seating position goes a long way in ensuring driving comfort and smooth shifts. Make sure you can comfortably reach the pedals and when you press the clutch all the way to the floor, you still have a slight bend in your knee.

In my experience, a lot of people that experience problems shifting while driving manual cars is due to improper seat adjustments and incorrect driving posture. People have this tendency to drive in the "race" car posture, that is, arms and legs fully stretched and a fairly reclined seating posture. Driving in such a manner is simply incompatible with the ergonomics of our cars.

Try adjusting your seating posture as follows:

1) Make sure your hand wrists comfortably reach the TOP of your steering wheel with your arms stretched, without lifting your upper back from the actual seatback. This ensures a slight bend at both of your elbow points when you grab the steering wheel at the 3' oclock and 9 'oclock positions. The slight elbow bend ensures good range of motion

2) Make sure you drive in an UPRIGHT seating position. Your back needs to make good contact with your entire seatback surface. This position not only ensures comfort but also increases your ability to control the car as you will feel what is doing.

3) Make sure you can reach all 3 pedals comfortably and when all of them, paying attention to the clutch pedal, are fully depressed, you will still have a slight bent at the knee. If you are fully stretching your legs, you are seating too far.

4) Your knee caps should not be touching the steering wheel or any other part of the dashboard. Give then several inches of clearance

5) Pay attention to how comfortably you can shift from 2nd to 3rd gear.

6) VERY IMPORTANT: When you shift avoid the following:

a) Grabbing the gearstick like if you were choking a chicken
b) leaving your hand in the gearstick right after shifting. It should go back immediately to the steering wheel.

Shift with an OPEN hand PALM and grabe the gearstick handle FROM THE TOP. Position your hand like if you were going to give a strong hand shake. An open hand palm makes engaging into reverse so much easier!

And always remember to FULLY press the clutch pedal ALL THE WAT TO THE FLOOR before each shift. This ensures a smooth shifting quality and avoids annoying gear "grinding".

Driving a manual car requires major adjustments in habits from driving an automatic car.

Try them!
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 09:21 PM
  #16  
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There are no guidelines for seat and steering wheel HEIGHT adjustments. However, depending on your body height, you should always ensure that you have a free and clear view of the road ahead by seeing above the top of the steering wheel and the base of the windshield.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 09:32 PM
  #17  
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Last but not least... Make sure you leave at least 10-12 inches distance between your chest and the steering wheel's center hub located airbag.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 05:53 AM
  #18  
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Thanks for the seating tips. I think I got it mostly set up correctly, other than the sitting up right since I'm a sloucher. And no, I'm not a "fast and furious" shifter, haha. I take my time shifting and I hate leaving my hand on the shifter if I'm not shifting. Maybe I'm weird like that.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 10:19 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Nics
I've tried searching for something/anything that could help me out on the boards, but I never find exactly what I'm looking for.

Sometimes it is very difficult to engage into first gear on my '06 MCS 6spd with only 500 miles. If I'm sitting in traffic, etc, I'll get it moving by using first gear and then take it out of gear and let it sit in neutral until I have to get it going again to save wear on throwout bearing/clutch/whatever. I did this earlier today and it seemed like when I wanted to put it back into first, it did not go all the way in. I slip it into neutral again, and tried to pop it back into first gear. It slips into first, but doesn't fully engage.

I thought maybe it was just my mind playing tricks on me so I try to give it a little gas to get it going, and it pops back into neutral. However when I try this time, it slips into first gear effortlessly.

Is this something I should be concerned about? It's happened twice in the last two days, and yes, my car sleeps outside in the winter cold since I'm in the progess of relocating.
Hey Nics,
A suggestion and my experience in driving manual/stick shift cars for the last 45+ years. Yikes! That is scary.
Suggestion: look up posts on the Whalen Shift Machine. Getting one makes the manual experience better. This may be sacreligious(sp?) but I switched from a regular Whalen to a billiard ball Whalen--and like it better. Check them out.

My experience with stick shift: I never put the gear/stick in neutral, unless it is a long stop. I downshift prior to every stop--except taking immediate evasive action and I have never burned out/worn out a clutch. My cars have ranged from an old '51 Dodge through old VW Bugs, MGA, MG Midget, VWGTI, 911 Porshe, 5.0 Mustang, Z28 Camaro, and a C5 Vette. Oh, and a SWEET '65 Chevelle Malibu. I agree that as you get some miles on you will get more use to the gear box. Enjoy.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 10:25 AM
  #20  
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I always coast to stop.Brakes are cheaper to replace than clutch and throw out bearings.Just keep eye on your rear mirror at stop that way no surprises,
 
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 10:38 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by pooch1
I always coast to stop.Brakes are cheaper to replace than clutch and throw out bearings.Just keep eye on your rear mirror at stop that way no surprises,
Haha, that's what I usually do. And then rev match if I need to get going again.

Thanks for all the advice/input so far. I'll admit this is my first manual tranny car that I've owned, but I've driven around older VW GTI's and an s2k, not for long periods of time though, so I never get to experience their own quirks.

It seemed like my car was doing it again today, but I nudged a little harder and it actually engaged all the way into first gear. Maybe my problem is that I'm not shifting hard enough? It usually only happens at traffic lights though, where I sit still for 30 seconds or so.

I'd love to try out a Whalen but I've got no money for one (perhaps I'll try a used one), and I just want to keep my car factory stock for a few years since I modded my last car, and that seemed to cause more headaches than funfactor.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 11:17 AM
  #22  
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Like other said, I think it will loosen up. I got the same 1st gear problem also from time to time. What I do and it helps is don't force it, go back to neutral, wiggle it left and right couple of times, then try again. It works for me.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 11:30 AM
  #23  
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I remember experiencing the same 1st-gear lock-out in my Jetta, and hoped it would be gone in the MINI. It's not, and it's still there after 42K miles and 2 transmissions.

Last month, I read an enormous article (I think on wikipedia) about synchros and transmissions and drive-lines, and that article explained what was already stated above: that this is a common issue due to synchro timing. Double-clutching helps because you are spinning both "ends" of the transmission prior to engaging the synchros.

I'll have to go back and try to find that article again. It's huge, very dense, and very enlightening.

But don't worry: you're not alone. Just use the N-2-1 shift technique, and you'll get 1st easily almost every time.

As for down-shifting to stop, I've never seen the harm in engine-braking. It's foolish to do so into 1st gear, as that can wear out the synchros quickly, due to the tall gearing (and some vehicles actually have a PLASTIC 1st gear!!), but 4th - 3rd - 2nd while light braking is quite a lot of fun. It's even more fun on the racetrack.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 12:02 PM
  #24  
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^^^ This does make me feel a little better, I wasn't sure if it was because I sucked at driving stick or what. I guess I'll have to try the 2-n-1 thing next time I get stuck.

And, well, I hope the mini gets to see some track time after a few thousand miles.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 12:08 PM
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I also seem to have diminished this problem by not taking the tranny out of first gear until the car's at a complete stop. Double-clutching, N-2-1, and goosing the throttle a little while moving the shifter into 1st are all little things I do now and haven't had a problem lately. :-)
 
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