R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Dorky cheapskate modification

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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 11:24 AM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by DixonL2
Oh - I also bought some space blue vinyl and stitched up a new boot and e-brake cover - with silver piping, no less!. Unfortunately, it got brittle in the cold and cracked... but it still looks cool.

Where did you get the space blue vinyl? It looks pretty close to the checkmate leather in your photo and although I don't have the checkmate package, I do want to bring a little body color into the interior of the car.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 01:48 PM
  #177  
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Got it at JoAnn Fabrics. I actually took my headrest off and brought it into the store with me!

To be honest, its a "looks great, but isn't". While it's a near-perfect color match and looks even better in person than the digicam flash makes it look... it's that thinner tablecloth-like stuff, with the flocked backing. That didn't bother me too much, since I was going for appearance and intended to treat it gently, but it gets brittle when cold and has already cracked in a couple places where the vinyl folds or crinkles when flexed. It doesn't show in the photo since I took that just after the install, and isn't yet obvious, but likely will be.

I have to find a source for either matching THIN leather or better vinyl in the same color. I'd LOVE to find some "space cloth" in silver (or something really close) and do a 4-panel in alternating colors. If I find it I'd be glad to make a few.

On the plus side, I found I'm not half-bad at tailoring shift boots and e-brake covers, and actually made up a great way of making matching silver piping using ribbon sewn around string. For a 47 y/o dad, that passes as creative!

Note: It needs to be thin fabric or leather, and fitting the boots without breaking plastic tabs is a chore! Another pic...

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Last edited by DixonL2; Mar 2, 2009 at 01:50 PM. Reason: add pic
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 01:56 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by DixonL2

what is that button you have to the left of the hand brake?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 02:07 PM
  #179  
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From: Southern IL
Originally Posted by DixonL2
Got it at JoAnn Fabrics. I actually took my headrest off and brought it into the store with me!

To be honest, its a "looks great, but isn't". While it's a near-perfect color match and looks even better in person than the digicam flash makes it look... it's that thinner tablecloth-like stuff, with the flocked backing. That didn't bother me too much, since I was going for appearance and intended to treat it gently, but it gets brittle when cold and has already cracked in a couple places where the vinyl folds or crinkles when flexed. It doesn't show in the photo since I took that just after the install, and isn't yet obvious, but likely will be.

I have to find a source for either matching THIN leather or better vinyl in the same color. I'd LOVE to find some "space cloth" in silver (or something really close) and do a 4-panel in alternating colors. If I find it I'd be glad to make a few.

On the plus side, I found I'm not half-bad at tailoring shift boots and e-brake covers, and actually made up a great way of making matching silver piping using ribbon sewn around string. For a 47 y/o dad, that passes as creative!

Note: It needs to be thin fabric or leather, and fitting the boots without breaking plastic tabs is a chore! Another pic...
That's cool, I was actually thinking of wrapping the alloy patina look dash I have with the stuff so it being thin helps and hopefully the solid plastic backing will reinforce it enough. That is unless I can get a complete set of Space-blue door hoops and three-piece dash off a Checkmate. My shift/e-brake boots, downtubes, door pulls and armrests are all wrapped in suede so I'm happy with those for now.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 02:30 PM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by hockeyman
I did the same thing with cardboard and then traced.

I used a very flimsy piece of aluminum and will plastidip it tonight......but I wondered why you want something more stout? Did you bolt yours on? Doesn't it rest nicely on the AC condenser? (I think that's what it is) The piece I used is 1/32 or something REALLY narrow.

Hmmm, we are talking about a different diverter. Mine is like this M7 diverter plate http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjGiNPCBwMA
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 02:38 PM
  #181  
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adrianr: The button on the bottom in the pic (passenger side) is the low-tire-reset button, stock in that position on the '05-06. The red-covered arming switch on the top in the pic (driver's side) is going to remain my little secret (see post 172 of this thread). Think of what you might do when someone stops in a merging lane... Bond, James Bond...

Deviant: I think that'd work well and look great, but recognize that (ahem) "inexpensive" vinyl does two things that don't work well in cars. One is that it doesn't behave in the cold, and doesn't age well. It gets brittle in cold, and also shrinks - both can lead to cracking and splitting if it's on there fairly tight. If you glue this stuff to the dash, the flocked backing will also eventually, and unfortunately, part ways with the vinyl overlay.

The second bad thing is off-gassing: Vinyl (really, polyvinylchloride or PVC) is a rigid plastic. It's the same stuff used to make pipes - that's what the plastic itself is like. It has plasticizers added (think "oil" and you're close) to make it flexible. These "gas off" over time, and can lead to fogged windows. Real OE car vinyl has longer-lasting and lower-temp rated plasticizers in it than this cheapie stuff. I think the physical property problem (stiff and cracking) is more of an issue than the off gassing though...

I really don't want to rain on your campfire because it sounds like it'd look super (really), but it'd be better to find a source of good vinyl or (better) real leather to make it work well. That, or paint it up.

(edit: If you can find a good sign shop, though, they may be able to put a vinyl film - sticker - wrap over the dash that'd look great and work better).
 

Last edited by DixonL2; Mar 2, 2009 at 02:48 PM.
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 03:05 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by thecigarman
Hmmm, we are talking about a different diverter. Mine is like this M7 diverter plate http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjGiNPCBwMA
Nope...that's exactly what I was referring to. I will take some pics of mine if the rain stops and I get a chance to finish it off. I cut and designed a piece of aluminum to look just like () the M7 one.There is one earlier in this thread too. I'll show ya.......
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 06:04 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by DixonL2

Deviant: I think that'd work well and look great, but recognize that (ahem) "inexpensive" vinyl does two things that don't work well in cars. One is that it doesn't behave in the cold, and doesn't age well. It gets brittle in cold, and also shrinks - both can lead to cracking and splitting if it's on there fairly tight. If you glue this stuff to the dash, the flocked backing will also eventually, and unfortunately, part ways with the vinyl overlay.
The off-gassing wouldn't be a problem so much and I would've removed it from it's backing before applying but I didn't think about the differing expansion and contraction properties, that can be a deal-killer for me unless they have something more lasting.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 06:29 PM
  #184  
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Yeah, its the cheap vinyl and I wouldn't want to see you putting a lot of effort in and only having it look good until the first cold snap when it cracks... the stuff is seriously what is used to make inexpensive flock-backed tablecloths.

Understood on of gassing, I got too techy/wordy in my explanation... sorry...

Now, if you used a vinyl "sticker" like from a sign shop or car graphics place, they can likely even wrap the parts for you and it'd look cool AND last long.

Good luck!
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 08:41 PM
  #185  
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Painted my rear view mirror to match the car, and it will get checkered stickers i got for cheap ant a sign shop. Not finished yet but so far i cost me no more than $30 and i will have checkered mirrors and sides like a check mate.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 09:27 AM
  #186  
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I completed most of the black out project. I am thinking of debadging the COOPER on the boot. The mask did not work well on the lettering. Any other ideas on blacking out the COOPER? more pics in the gallery if you're interested.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 11:14 AM
  #187  
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Hmmm, how about sanding just the top surface of the letters, then using a very firm paint roller (or ink roller) to black out just the letter's surface, leaving the chrome as a shadow effect??
 

Last edited by DixonL2; Mar 9, 2009 at 11:22 AM.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 11:43 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by DixonL2
Hmmm, how about sanding just the top surface of the letters, then using a very firm paint roller (or ink roller) to black out just the letter's surface, leaving the chrome as a shadow effect??
That is a great idea. It was my original goal over the weekend with the plasti-dip and I was about 80% successful when the corner of the R tore and I aborted the whole project. Same with the Mini badge under the rear wiper. I like the idea except it's a 'never go back' move really once you sand. Although, I may end up with a brushed look if it fails, which might be cool too?
Anyhow, I love the new look.

Thanks to those who gave the ideas, I have completed the following for those who care, about $60 bucks and a days worth of work. Happy to give my input or more details on any if you like.

Power Steering pump fan "grille" ~$4.00 20 mins
Door panel hole fill ~$10 with paint to match 20 mins -paint dry.
Air divertor (sp) ~$3 plus a coat of plasti-dip 2 hours template build and 2 attempts at the plate
Chrome Delete ~ $30 two rolls of +33 tape and 2 cans of plasti-dip about 4 hours with masking, drying and multi-coating.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 11:44 AM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by DixonL2
Hmmm, how about sanding just the top surface of the letters, then using a very firm paint roller (or ink roller) to black out just the letter's surface, leaving the chrome as a shadow effect??
By the way, it's hard to see in the pics, but the "S" of the side marker has the chrome on the sides still giving that cool effect you are talking about.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 01:37 PM
  #190  
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Not really a "never go back" move since you can get replacement letters pretty inexpensively... and, of course, spell something else with them if you really want!

By the way, looks great. I still am not tired of the full red/black, including wheels. Want to be really sinister, go with a red/black checkered roof... (as if you need more ideas...)
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 08:23 PM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by DixonL2
Not really a "never go back" move since you can get replacement letters pretty inexpensively... and, of course, spell something else with them if you really want!

By the way, looks great. I still am not tired of the full red/black, including wheels. Want to be really sinister, go with a red/black checkered roof... (as if you need more ideas...)


The air scoop is drying as I type.

The roof is a good idea, but I have never been one for the checkered. Although I did see a really nice one today. I love my color matched roof too much to mess with it.....plus it has sunroof. Thanks for the comments! I appreciate the ideas and feedback. Will take another pic and post in gallery once the scoop is dry.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 09:48 PM
  #192  
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Hockeyman, all you have to do is blackout the headlights! And you still need to do the sidelights.

It's great to see this thread is still alive.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 10:08 PM
  #193  
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This is why I don't have one tattoo......cuz I'd have 20. I do love the red/black contrast on the car with these changes. The non-committal part of it is great too. Want the chrome look again? Peel. I am not 100% satisfied with the scoop so I am going to re-do it. It will have to do for a couple days Even imperfect, it looks awesome in there!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 10:41 PM
  #194  
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Checkering out my car is finished for now. Cost me less than $30 and just a few hours of my time, i think it is all well spent.








 
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 11:05 PM
  #195  
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How difficult was it to remove the rearview mirror?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 12:17 AM
  #196  
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fairly easy, it just twists of, think you turn it left and it comes of. don't worry about breaking it , as it is very ovr engineered. just take the covers off, first the driver side for you and then the passenger side. they also just pop off.

then just unplug and its off. you can also remove the arm with ball joint. just disassemble the plug and pop out the ball. it makes it alot easyer to paint.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 03:27 AM
  #197  
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Originally Posted by hockeyman
Same with the Mini badge under the rear wiper. I like the idea except it's a 'never go back' move really once you sand. Although, I may end up with a brushed look if it fails, which might be cool too?
This may be your answer to the emblem. I just ordered a set for the front and rear badges in body colour. Hope its turns out looking sexy

http://www.aestheticreations.net/moldedparts.htm
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 07:58 AM
  #198  
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Thanks for the link. I found it also after doing 90% of my blackout. For $200 you can get the whole black out kit in snap on form I guess. But then that's not really "cheapskate upgrade" as much as it is snapping on stuff someone else made. (Although it does look like quality work)

Thanks for the compliment....I agree...it is a bit sexy, which is a heck of a lot better than cute! Of course, I was going for mean or evil, but sexy will do too!
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 07:44 PM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by Willy_sa
Painted my rear view mirror to match the car.
It looks awesome! I totally need to do that since I have white wheels and white side mirrors. What kind of paint did you use? Plasti Dip, spray, brush enamel?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 11:21 PM
  #200  
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Originally Posted by denny's mini
It looks awesome! I totally need to do that since I have white wheels and white side mirrors. What kind of paint did you use? Plasti Dip, spray, brush enamel?
I used normal plastic primer in a can, sprayed it on waited to dry and the you can use any spraycan paint. It is quite strong as it didn't come off wile i pealed off one of the vynil blocks.

This is the paint i used but you wont find it in the usa.

 
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