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Front Control arm bushings are worn. Looking do refresh as much as possible while the subframe is dropped.
Already picked up:
Powerflex control arm bushings in bracket
Powerflex Front swaybar bushings
Powerflex steering rack bushing
OEM Outer Ball joints
Lemforder tie rod ends
Seems I cant find OEM inner ball joints, so I'm looking for a good option there, any ideas?
Is there anything else that would be recommended to replace?
Additional question.
The JCW springs I have on my struts are old, worn and starting to rust. Previous owner bought Bilstein b6's and put them in last year but kept the old springs. Im considering changing out the springs, Ideally for stock non JCW mini springs as I wouldnt mind a bit more comfortable ride. Is there any reason that would be a bad idea? (aside from softer handling) Also does anyone know where I could locate those? I think I've found some one Ebay, however some have 2 orange lines, while others have 2 pink lines, not sure how to make sense of the markings.
I'm located in Canada, so the closer to here the better.
If you're looking for a better ride quality check out Monroe QuickStruts. They come as complete units - springs, struts, mounts, etc. I have them on my '04 S and love them. Softer ride but still handles really well.
[QUOTE=MoveQuick;4690151]Front Control arm bushings are worn. Looking do refresh as much as possible while the subframe is dropped.
Already picked up:
Powerflex control arm bushings in bracket
Powerflex Front swaybar bushings
Powerflex steering rack bushing
OEM Outer Ball joints
Lemforder tie rod ends
Seems I cant find OEM inner ball joints, so I'm looking for a good option there,
I recently went through the front end of my ‘06 JCW And went with Delphi ball joints and tie rod ends. They are made in Turkey and very cost effective. While the subframe is out, additional items you might need:
Inner tie rod ends, mine had 90k on them and had no friction.
Power steering hoses. They get weepy.
Also replace motor mount and bolt. Mod Mini has a video on this. Mine was dry and the bolt rusted on a rust free car. I got a cheap Uro dog bone mount for the lower since it’s easy to access.
I decided to use rubber sway bar bushings to keep things quiet.
The Powerflex control arm bushings are smooth and quiet so far! The harshness is gone! I was considering new springs too but with all these items replaced and new Conti Extreme Contact tires I’m loving it!
+1 on Delphi ball joints, cost effective option especially being Canadian also. Lemforder is the OEM manufacturer of the inner ball joints. Part # 31106779438 for right side (germanparts.ca). But for the price you can swap Delphi's in twice if not 3x.... us Canadians get hosed for auto parts!
Front Control arm bushings are worn. Looking do refresh as much as possible while the subframe is dropped.
Already picked up:
Powerflex control arm bushings in bracket
Powerflex Front swaybar bushings
Powerflex steering rack bushing
OEM Outer Ball joints
Lemforder tie rod ends
Seems I cant find OEM inner ball joints, so I'm looking for a good option there,
I recently went through the front end of my ‘06 JCW And went with Delphi ball joints and tie rod ends. They are made in Turkey and very cost effective. While the subframe is out, additional items you might need:
Inner tie rod ends, mine had 90k on them and had no friction.
Power steering hoses. They get weepy.
Also replace motor mount and bolt. Mod Mini has a video on this. Mine was dry and the bolt rusted on a rust free car. I got a cheap Uro dog bone mount for the lower since it’s easy to access.
I decided to use rubber sway bar bushings to keep things quiet.
The Powerflex control arm bushings are smooth and quiet so far! The harshness is gone! I was considering new springs too but with all these items replaced and new Conti Extreme Contact tires I’m loving it!
Kurt
Hoses and Engine mounts were done not too long ago so I'm all good on that front, just knocking out the suspension at the moment. Thanks for the info though!
+1 on Delphi ball joints, cost effective option especially being Canadian also. Lemforder is the OEM manufacturer of the inner ball joints. Part # 31106779438 for right side (germanparts.ca). But for the price you can swap Delphi's in twice if not 3x.... us Canadians get hosed for auto parts!
Thanks so much for the info!! I didn't know about that website, suuuuuper helpful. I'll probably still go with the lemforder's as I don't mind paying more for longevity.
Last edited by MoveQuick; Jan 30, 2025 at 02:44 PM.
I thought about OEM longevity and you’ll never see Japanese bushings failing at 90k. I would never buy OEM rubber products if non-Chinese alternatives are available.
Lol @Krunch2020 well said, I would have to agree. Japanese vehicles are the highest KM vehicles on the road for a reason. The so many "common" failures on these cars is rather entertaining, and subaru is picked on for its head gasket issue almost soley lol.
Lol @Krunch2020 well said, I would have to agree. Japanese vehicles are the highest KM vehicles on the road for a reason. The so many "common" failures on these cars is rather entertaining, and subaru is picked on for its head gasket issue almost soley lol.
Ha! Scoobies are great fun until the oil leaks and head gasket issues drive you away!
Rubber parts that have been around for 100 years should never fail. European manufacturers are selling garbage rubber parts forever. BMW, Ferrari, and Porsche are guilty of selling crap for excessive prices.
In your topic start you state you want a bit more comfortable ride and at the same time you are installing Powerflex bushings. I know there are purple and black Powerflex bushings, having a different degree of stiffness. I always thought polyurethane bushings like Powerflex are stiffer they just rubber.
In your topic start you state you want a bit more comfortable ride and at the same time you are installing Powerflex bushings. I know there are purple and black Powerflex bushings, having a different degree of stiffness. I always thought polyurethane bushings like Powerflex are stiffer they just rubber.
Have I been thought wrong by the internet?
These are fair questions haha!
Poly bushings are definitely more firm than rubber. My understanding was that in the applications that I've mentioned above, the increase to harshness is negligible while the increase to longevity is considerable. So that is why I went with them, however since I need to replace my coil springs, I figured going with an additional CM of height over the JCW might be a minor improvement, I'm not looking to turn it into a luxury vehicle or anything.
FWIW, JCW Sport Springs ("reds") only lowered the car by claimed 10mm, with differing P/Ns (standard MCS or JCW/GP1) meant to complement as-built weight of specific cars by VIN with weight-additive options such as the pano roof. I haven't found a complete P/N to stripe color code conversion chart, however this old topic son the MINI2 forum started 2003 and periodically updated contains a lot of information: MINI2 - Spring part numbers via ETK table:
In any case, a limited number of JCW reds were still available in a BMW Germany warehouse location 4 years ago when I bought a set to replace too stiff and low (for me) Bilstein lowering springs. ECS Tuning also listed those a few years ago but I haven't checked recently. As indicated by the above topic, the P/Ns I purchased for my lightly optioned MCS were actually those spec'd for GP1, which worked out well for my modified suspension in combo with Koni "yellows". Prices I paid back then were from an authorized BMW MINI dealership's online store.
FWIW, JCW Sport Springs ("reds") only lowered the car by claimed 10mm, with differing P/Ns (standard MCS or JCW/GP1) meant to complement as-built weight of specific cars by VIN with weight-additive options such as the pano roof. I haven't found a complete P/N to stripe color code conversion chart, however this old topic son the MINI2 forum started 2003 and periodically updated contains a lot of information: MINI2 - Spring part numbers via ETK table:
In any case, a limited number of JCW reds were still available in a BMW Germany warehouse location 4 years ago when I bought a set to replace too stiff and low (for me) Bilstein lowering springs. ECS Tuning also listed those a few years ago but I haven't checked recently. As indicated by the above topic, the P/Ns I purchased for my lightly optioned MCS were actually those spec'd for GP1, which worked out well for my modified suspension in combo with Koni "yellows". Prices I paid back then were from an authorized BMW MINI dealership's online store.
Ended up picking up some stock non JCW springs from ECS after they got me the part numbers. Expensive, but should last a long while with the increase in height I was hoping for.
Now I just have to decide whether I want to pair this all with an R56 Trailing arm swap. I have the arms because they came with the car, but the rest of the parts seem to come to like $950 USD (WITHOUT the wheel speed sensors) from ECS.
Anyone have a lead on where those parts can be found cheaper?
In the next month I’m planning to do a light rear suspension refresh with a Powerflex front trailing arm bushings, oem style control arms and, probably, a 19mm sway bar. I’ve toyed with the R56 trailing arm swap but for 10 lbs on the light end of the car it doesn’t seem worth it since it’s a street car. I’ve heard there’s some geometry correction but I haven’t looked into that.
Way Motor works has trailing arm conversion kit and can probably provide some guidance. They are used parts.
The factory trailing arms new are $$$, tried to get some in the aftermarket and no one carries good ones in aluminum. I know some people get them used but you have to watch the bottom bolt into the strut, those are self tapping into cast aluminum and they can strip out from wreaking yards and bad shops. I have seen a bunch of people that had to buy new as they were stripped/cross threaded. MINI should have used a bolt down their with a nut and not a self tapping large screw/bolt.