Just got my R52 Mini and I have a few limited records of the service history on it. It appears on the previous oil change the garage used 0W-20. Any issues leaving this in until the next change? Mini appears to recommend 5W-30.

Side note, I thought about just changing it myself since I have the oil, but the drain plug is completely rounded off...

 

Bump...

 

Probably not that big of a deal but I would change it.

 

Yeah, I tried to change it again this weekend but the stinking drain plug is nearly impossible to remove. Either that's the way the rubberized plugs are or the shop that did the oil change (like only 500 miles ago before I got the car) must have impacted it on there.
Next step - rounded bolt extractor and Fumoto valve. Thanks.

 

Depends on where you live, how hard you drive the car, and when the last change was.

Because of what time of year it is, if you're in a warm climate, I'd change it. If you're in cool/cold climate, you'll probably be ok, as long as you change at the shortest recommended interval, or by Spring. (If it were Spring or Summer, i'd say change it right away)
But all of this is dependant on how hard you're going to drive the car. If you're going to be in boost (assuming it's the S/C model) or the upper RPM'S often, I'd change it right away. (Before you have too much fun)

​​​​​​Also, if it's been more than 5k miles, I'd also change it. (Many of us don't follow the recommended oil change interval, we like to change around 5k)

Pick up a new drain plug and sealing washer, and remember to use a 6 point socket from here on out, if you are going to do it yourself. (If not, it would be a good recommendation to give to your mechanic,) Also use recommended torque specs in the plug as well, our plugs are notoriously difficult to remove, even following recommended specs.

Esp. if it's an S/C car, 0 or 5 w20 is just not heavy enough for the amount of heat generated in the engine to give proper bearing lubrication.

Posting overlap edit:
You can try some heat on the plug to see if it will loosen up, since you're replacing it anyway.

 

Change when you can - mine has 5/30 or 5/40 Mobil 1 since 15K dealer service - now at 175k. 2/25 is 20 years.

 

Man my R52 drain plug seems welded on from prior owner and have similar plans to you. Meanwhile on first change I used an extractor pump through the dipstick sigh..

 

Can do it from dipstick tube, not hard to do. Then you can work on that drain bolt without the fear of 4-5 qts coming at you. I change mine every 3k, and I suck it out every other change. When I do drain, new plug, and I haven’t noticed any sludge going on, usually just starting to get black and you can usually see through it. We live in townhouse that have shared public parking, so I try to make it quick and as clean as possible. When I do drain it, use the car port, put plenty of plastic and cardboard down, jic. Can’t wait till we get to Florida, townhouse has a 2 car garage, no more worrying about door dings and others wondering what I’m doing 😁

 

Someone cranked that on. I have done all mine never an issue - use a six point socket. Get a new OE plug.

 

Part Number: 11137513050 - Screw Plug with Gasket Ring or if you have the Oil Temp Gauge then it is Part Number: 82940004581 - Oil temperature sensorLots of places have them various prices shop around.

 

Just to close the loop on this...bought a set of rounded bolt remover sockets from Home Depot. These:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-M...ACT5/300703144

I used the largest of the set, the 1/2" size, with a 2 foot breaker bar. Let me tell you, that sucker was TIGHT. The head was totally mangled. But I got it off, dumped the oil, installed a new standard drain bolt with 16mm hex head, and an aluminum crush washer, then filled up with synthetic 5W-30. I didn't bother changing the filter as I can't see how that would be affected. And now I won't be concerned about what oil is in it!

 

Old mechanic trick: I always coat the threads of the drain plug with wheel bearing grease. Insurance against galling and acts as a barrier to potential drips.