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MCS 2004 DIY Lower Control Arm and LCA Bushing Replacement
Hello,
I decided to do DIY my MCS 2004's lower control arm bushings., my plan is I will not drop the subframe. Based on the research on many mini cooper forums not too many explained or warn how hard is it to replace and assemble back both LCA into the bushing while they are all up there attached to the subframe.
Here are my questions:
1. If I am going to use powerflex bushing do i need this tool to put in the lower control arm? is this usable when removing the lower control arm from the stock bushing?
On a nearly 20 year old car, what about the 2 ball joints on both control arms?
Having just replaced the rear bushings on both front control arms (with PowerFlex) along with the ball joints a few months ago, I don't think dipping the subframe to remove the control arms is that big a deal. Aside from dealing with the steering shaft coupler, which reconnecting it was a source of much frustration and cursing the last time I did it.
With the control arms off and secured in a vice, I was able to use a couple of pry bars to get the stock rear bushing off Mod Mini style without much difficulty.
With access to a press and some pressing tools, pressing out the old bushing and pressing in the Powerflex bushing was pretty easy.
Pressing the stock bushing out:
Pressing the Powerflex bushing in:
Powerflex bushing installed:
And on the control arm:
And I also installed the bushing support kit from ECS Tuning:
Although I used a press for this work, the press tool kit I have is designed to work with included all-thread rods to press the bushings in/out. It's a kit I found on Amazon for around $120 and I also used it to press the bushings out/in on the rear suspension as well.
And I also installed the bushing support kit from ECS Tuning:
Although I used a press for this work, the press tool kit I have is designed to work with included all-thread rods to press the bushings in/out. It's a kit I found on Amazon for around $120 and I also used it to press the bushings out/in on the rear suspension as well.
About the "bushing support" how does that work? is the control arm threaded? also what's the advantage of installing this? Powerflex bushing is not enough? aslo do you have any other alternative that is on par with Powerflex? PSB?
This is the reason why I don't want to deal with dropping the subframe.
Drop the subframe
Drop the subframe
Drop the subframe
You'll be able to tackle any other issues, and the job will be easier and take less time. Getting the bushings in/out is not hard, but time consuming with the brackets out of the car. I wouldn't even consider doing them in the car, and i've done ~ a dozen of them.
The steering U-joint can be difficult even for seasoned DIY'ers until my not patented technique is applied: Post describing foolproof technique
It took me a while to develop this technique on my first subframe drop, and since then its the easiest part of the job. If that's seriously all that is preventing you from doing this the right way....you're welcome
Years ago I did these bushings on an r53 I picked up on trade. Like you, I didn't want to drop the subframe, seemed like an unnecessary waste of time.
After two nights of fighting with it, I dropped.the subframe and had the bushings swapped in minutes.
Like the others have said, just drop the sub frame, it will make.your life a million times easier. I also didn't use power flex bushings, I used a generic version because they were red, and red parts on cars are always faster. Also, they were cheaper. I can't say if they're just as good or not, but they were nice and stiff and gave me no issues until I sold the car.
Drop the subframe
Drop the subframe
Drop the subframe
You'll be able to tackle any other issues, and the job will be easier and take less time. Getting the bushings in/out is not hard, but time consuming with the brackets out of the car. I wouldn't even consider doing them in the car, and i've done ~ a dozen of them.
The steering U-joint can be difficult even for seasoned DIY'ers until my not patented technique is applied: Post describing foolproof technique
It took me a while to develop this technique on my first subframe drop, and since then its the easiest part of the job. If that's seriously all that is preventing you from doing this the right way....you're welcome
Thanks man.
I will think about it., I just ordered those tools from ECS, I will try to fit them see if I have the angle to loosen them up.
About the "bushing support" how does that work? is the control arm threaded? also what's the advantage of installing this? Powerflex bushing is not enough? aslo do you have any other alternative that is on par with Powerflex? PSB?
The control arm is not threaded. I figured out the thread pitch and bolt diameter of the bolt in the kit and tapped the control arm to accept the bolt. Tapping that hole was somewhat difficult and tedious as I certainly did not want to break my tap off in that hole but I kept my patience and got it done. It was after the job was done that I learned that drilling that hole a little wider before tapping it is helpful. As far as advantages, I cannot say for certain but I saw the kit while shopping on their website and decided to give it a try.
This bushing was installed as part of my full suspension refresh on my 170k mile, 2003 R53. During this refresh, I went "full poly" - replacing all of my suspension bushings except the rear trailing arm bushing with polyurethane. With the exception of the rear upper control arm bushings, in which I installed Super Pro polyurethane bushings, I used PowerFlex bushings throughout. The reason I left the rear trailing arm bushings alone is because I installed R56 trailing arms and the rubber bushing that came with them were in perfect condition. It won't be too difficult for me to go back and replace those with polyurethane later on anyway.
About 3 months and maybe 2000 miles since this work I can report that I LOVE how my handles since the refresh. Firm and highly responsive are how I would describe how my car feels now.
The control arm is not threaded. I figured out the thread pitch and bolt diameter of the bolt in the kit and tapped the control arm to accept the bolt. Tapping that hole was somewhat difficult and tedious as I certainly did not want to break my tap off in that hole but I kept my patience and got it done. It was after the job was done that I learned that drilling that hole a little wider before tapping it is helpful. As far as advantages, I cannot say for certain but I saw the kit while shopping on their website and decided to give it a try.
This bushing was installed as part of my full suspension refresh on my 170k mile, 2003 R53. During this refresh, I went "full poly" - replacing all of my suspension bushings except the rear trailing arm bushing with polyurethane. With the exception of the rear upper control arm bushings, in which I installed Super Pro polyurethane bushings, I used PowerFlex bushings throughout. The reason I left the rear trailing arm bushings alone is because I installed R56 trailing arms and the rubber bushing that came with them were in perfect condition. It won't be too difficult for me to go back and replace those with polyurethane later on anyway.
About 3 months and maybe 2000 miles since this work I can report that I LOVE how my handles since the refresh. Firm and highly responsive are how I would describe how my car feels now.
Ok thank you.
Here's my plan now, if I can't install the new bush while the subframe is up I will go for plan B drop the whole frame.
About poly bushes for MINI alot of people here prefer the Powerflex.... is PSB bush is on par o even better than powerflex?, or let's say is PSB up to the task with MINIs? reading from other forums the BMW, VW and Audi guys have good review with PSB
"Easy" is a relative term. Easier than cutting them out with a saws-all. Not really bad, just rather cramped for space. I'd say if you were going to consider installing poly sway bar bushings, go ahead and drop the subframe, then do everything at once.
" Not really bad, just rather cramped for space. I'd say if you were going to consider installing poly sway bar bushings, go ahead and drop the subframe, then do everything at once.
Okay Thank you
Naaaahhhh I just want to replace that crappy stock LCA Bushings, quick and proper way. Problem with my situation is I don't have a garage to work on.
And if I decided to do the "DROP THE SUBFRAME" method.... might as well do this what this guy did. Clean all, replace all worn parts.
But for now I just want the car safe to drive... I'm NY it's 36F right now., dropping the subframe is time consuming. Unless I have a garage with heater ON. lol.
Don't hate me for not being a well fortified mechanic. I live in an apartment.
Just an anecdote.
A little late and a bit unconventional perhaps but...
My initial plan was to purchase a pair of pre-pressed control arm brackets with Powerfex bushings inserted from WayMotorWorks = $85 w/core.
Way was out of stock (no one ever return's their old core).
I went to a salvage yard and dropped the subframe from a nearly gutted 05 R53 and unbolted the carriers/bushing brackets. $15 or $20 (?) cash & carry.
Purchased the poly bushings from Powerflex. Cult & pried the old bushings out (very easy). I didn't have the tool or a proper press.
I Improvised installation by pressing in the new bushings via, a 2" x 2" piece of pipe, flat metal plate and a 2ton floorjack placed underneath a large dumpster.
Yeah. I know ...but it went super easy and worked well.
My transmission suffered an untimely demise a few months later and the pre-pressed CAB were installed (since the subframe was out) while the transmission was being replaced by a skilled Mini shop.
Unfortunately I never had the joy of dropping the subframe to do the refresh (LCAB).
Believe it or not - I was really looking forward to it.
A little late and a bit unconventional perhaps but...
My initial plan was to purchase a pair of pre-pressed control arm brackets with Powerfex bushings inserted from WayMotorWorks = $85 w/core.
Way was out of stock (no one ever return's their old core).
I went to a salvage yard and dropped the subframe from a nearly gutted 05 R53 and unbolted the carriers/bushing brackets. $15 or $20 (?) cash & carry.
Purchased the poly bushings from Powerflex. Cult & pried the old bushings out (very easy). I didn't have the tool or a proper press.
I Improvised installation by pressing in the new bushings via, a 2" x 2" piece of pipe, flat metal plate and a 2ton floorjack placed underneath a large dumpster.
Yeah. I know ...but it went super easy and worked well.
My transmission suffered an untimely demise a few months later and the pre-pressed CAB were installed (since the subframe was out) while the transmission was being replaced by a skilled Mini shop.
Unfortunately I never had the joy of dropping the subframe to do the refresh (LCAB).
Believe it or not - I was really looking forward to it.
If workspace/tools are an issue, I have a set of pre-prepped brackets, and could install new ebay brand poly bushings for you. IE ready to bolt in and go.
Hell, where are you located? Come use my garage. We can have you in and out in a couple hours.
You need to find a kind soul like megaDan. Doing that job outside in cold weather that could change from bad to worse is a crap-shoot that I wouldn't want to take. You never know what kind of problem/s you might incur that might require a "Plan B". Find a neighbor or friend with a heated garage!
I agree with what track rat mentioned.
Rubber can be one tough monkey to work with in cold weather!
Again - best of luck and have a safe and happy holiday!
If workspace/tools are an issue, I have a set of pre-prepped brackets, and could install new ebay brand poly bushings for you. IE ready to bolt in and go.
Hell, where are you located? Come use my garage. We can have you in and out in a couple hours.
NYC! Thank you for the offer., let me find out first with my neighbor -- one time he offered me his also.
You need to find a kind soul like megaDan. Doing that job outside in cold weather that could change from bad to worse is a crap-shoot that I wouldn't want to take. You never know what kind of problem/s you might incur that might require a "Plan B". Find a neighbor or friend with a heated garage!
Yeah True! sometimes something else breaks, and I will be cursing all day.
I agree with what track rat mentioned.
Rubber can be one tough monkey to work with in cold weather!
Again - best of luck and have a safe and happy holiday!
yup I envy those guys in the south, with 1-2 car garages. then they even show you drinking their favorite serveza while working on the car... not in a hurry, relaxed wrenching away with "guns and roses" playing in the background.
...but it went super easy and worked well.