Trying to wrap my head around this - Although 'I think' I may suspect the (unfortunate) answer.

The short version:
With the clutch pedal depressed and in gear - the car does not roll freely. It almost feels like the front brakes are applied.
Interestingly; It does not inch/pull forward as if clutch has been released while pedal is depressed (as if failing clutch?).
When the clutch pedal is not depressed and in gear/driving - the car rolls/drives normally. Gears are difficult to engage. No unusual or "tell tale" noise.

The long version:
My Mini has been running and driving fine. No more unusual vibration after discovering and remedy of "less than tight" passenger side CV carrier bracket bolts.
However; I have to give more credence to what @Daftlad had suggested in an earlier post.
I digress.

This morning the car was performing and shifting fine as usual. After a quick, mild 12mi drive, while exiting off the expressway, the shifter had become stuck in 6th gear.
No amount of force applied would disengage/move the shifter out of gear = clutch in/clutch out - car running or car off. I was stuck/disabled on the off ramp.
Depressing the clutch pedal = the car started normally as expected. Clutch pedal feels normal with good pressure and rebound.

After 15 minutes with the car off; I managed to finally free the shifter from 6th into 3rd or neutral with a little force. Although, it seems more difficult than usual to move the shifter into 1st & 2nd gear whether the car was off or running. Even with the clutch pedal depressed.
The car has no problem starting (with the clutch pedal depressed or in neutral).

After finally making it "home", driving in 2nd gear, I noticed that even though I can now engage (with difficulty) into gear - with the clutch pedal depressed = the car does not roll freely as it normally should. As described above - It almost feels like the front brakes are applied when in gear and clutch pedal is depressed. With the clutch pedal up/not depressed the car rolls/drives easy and freely. Yet finding gears still remains a bit of a challenge.

Understandably; I assume/imagine the short answer is = "you need a new clutch"(?)

However I was hoping that someone could shed some light/pin point what's actually happening with the clutch/drivetrane here or what may possibly be causing this behavior.
I'm pretty mechanically inclined but not as well experienced in hydraulic or otherwise clutch issues.

My apology for the redundancy of my post.

Thanks.

'note' = pre-facelift '04 R53

 

To me, it sounds like it might "just" be the throwout bearing that's bad. If it's halfway destroyed, you might not be able to fully release the clutch, thus explaining the symptoms.

Unfortunately, the only way to be really sure it's "just" that is to remove the gearbox, at which point you might as well replace the clutch "while you're in there". Sure, you go from "just" a < $100 part to a $400/500 kit, but dropping the gearbox is an involved job, and you don't want to change just the throwout bearing and have to change the clutch in one or two years anyway.

Plus if you have the kit, no matter if it's only the throwout bearing or the clutch, both will be addressed at the same time.

 

Hmm. Is it possible you have more than one issue?

It’s curious that you were unable to pull the shifter out of sixth. I would expect that to be fairly easy to do without touching the clutch as long as you were off the throttle.

edit: On further reflection, potential linkage issue? But the not rolling freely bit gives me pause and makes me wonder if it’s something internal to the trans if it isn’t just the clutch not fully disengaging.

 

Yes - to both replies.
The whole car not rolling freely with the clutch pedal depressed (while car is running), and not inching forward has me a bit perplexed to say the least.
I would lean towards Fradow's thoughts as replacing all the clutch components/clutch kit as well as rear main seal. This is a job I am ill equip to perform in an apartment environment and would have to have a shop do the R&R ($$).
I have to concede.

To Deepgrey's points - You're absolutely correct. I suspect there maybe more going on here than (perhaps?) just the clutch.
After allowing the car to cool down awhile; I went back out to run through the gears with the car parked..
With the engine off.
1_Shifting the lever smoothly into each gear was hit or miss. Some up and down shifting went smooth. While other times shifting was near impossible to get into 5th & 6th.
Occasionally the shift lever seized and locked into gear(?) and had to be forcefully dislodged by aggressively jiggling the shift lever. Again this was with the engine off and clutch pedal not depressed.
With the engine running (still parked):
2_While depressing the clutch pedal, shifting from neutral into 1st - the idle speed/rpms dropped as if the drivetane was under load (as if the clutch pedal was poised to being released). Same also occurred in shifting from neutral to 3rd.
Again there was not even the slightest bit of forward movement while depressing the clutch pedal (and as if the brakes were applied). Attempting to move the shift lever normally into 5th & 6th was near impossible.
A little jostling of the shift lever could sometimes find and engage 5th gear but would often get stuck.

Even though I had recently replaced the shift weight bushings 3 or 4 months ago (which worked wonders), and inspected the shift cables and bushings (all seemed fine at the time) ;I went ahead and pulled the airbox to investigate any potential problems with the
previously installed shift weight bushings and/ or shift linkage bushings/balljoints. Although in my novice experience - I didn't notice anything too unusual or concerning. Perhaps the shift linkage/cables have crapped out as well?
There was a slight bit of slop in the shifter lever ball socket (under the boot) - more specifically the white center carrier ring, when observed (attempting) to move the lever into each gear. It was well lubed and saw no visible cracks. Since the ring isn't cracked or broken - I'm not sure if this slight amount of movement is normal.

My '04 R53 pre-facelift (10.'03) curiously appears to have the facelift shifter box (black not white), but I can't say for sure now, since I don't (can't) see a cylindrical "weight" strung through a cable like the facelift's have.

Its a holiday weekend and I'm still stuck as to where to start.

 

That's a job I did in a driveway (not mine) with a helper in 2 days (short of actually changing the clutch, because my problem was the gearbox itself, but that's about the same time).

If you do go through a shop and pay labor, yeah the parts cost difference is going to be negligible compared to labor, and any competent shop will do a few things "while in there", including indeed the rear main seal.

If you can, have someone go through the gears while you're inspecting motion of the shift linkage and see if the issue seem to come from the linkage being loose or gears not going in the gearbox.

According to the "Fixing the weak link" PDF, they are Condition A (white) and Condition B (black). I don't think which one you have is really linked to pre/post-facelift, as no parts site will tell you the version according to your build date.

 

Thanks.
Bravo!
Yeah - I've seen videos and the whole ordeal looks like it could be a nightmare (especially in a parking lot) for a (Mini) novice like myself. I sometimes have fond memories of my old Porsche powered VWs.
Dropping the engine to replace a clutch was just 4) bolts, 1) cable and 2) wires. The entire 2liter engine weighed 75# and could be lifted out by hand and rolled away on a small floor jack No need to dismantle half the engine compartment was nice too.

I have a reputable Mini shop in mind. Although, I suspect it maybe a repair expense I am unprepared for. The benefit of knowing this shop will do the job right is a comfort. Being my only form of transportation is more of a psychological trauma..

I did take a video and photographed the shiftweight / linkage position in each gear but I'm not certain as to what I can make of it. Reviewing the video kinda leads me to believe, (if there is a linkage issue), it would most likely stem from the linkage directly at the shifter/box.
From my understanding the pre July '04 R53 came with an older style (white box) shifter assembly while the later '04's had a new improved design cable and balljoints.
Looks like I'll have to drop the exhaust to get in there to really know.

Any more insights are greatly appreciated.

 

If the throwout bearing was seized or nearly so, could applying the clutch pedal (to disengage the transmission from the motor) artificially and temporarily 'lock up' the transmission and therefore the wheels, indeed as if applying brakes? Then releasing the clutch pedal (engaging the transmission to the motor) the resistance of the failing bearing overcome by engine torque, so the car drives as it should?

If so from the sound of things in your description; would suspect the primary issue is the clutch / throwout bearing (one or both gone). Possible secondary issue of shift linkage damage at the console end and/or the transmission end, brought on and/or aggravated by having to wrestle the car in and out of gear as a result of the failing clutch / throwout bearing. As for which linkage is / should be in the car (assuming it does in fact require replacement) believe most of the vendors here can help you if you provide them the VIN: ECS Tuning, Outmotoring, WMW etc.

Before borrowing trouble on internal gear box damage, would drain gear oil and look for shavings / flakes / particulates, keeping in mind it's going to get drained anyway with a clutch job. If you have the clutch done (or do it yourself) and/or replace the linkage would see how things shake out after that before considering a gear box tear down or replacement. The Getrags were one of the things BMW seemed to get right on these cars; pretty stout and forgiving for the most part.

Edit: remind us again have you ruled out hydraulics already i.e. slave / master failure or line union leaks?

 

The biggest cost is going to be your labor cost. Looking about 1600 to 2000 bucks for a shop to do it.
If you car is super charged the cost will be higher do to the dual mass flywheel a clutch.
It not that bad of a job to do if you have the correct tools. Plus do to the weight of the 6 speed a trying to stab the input shaft to the crank can be a real ***. It much easier to just pull the engine out. That what I did.

 

I spent most of the day yesterday: Reading, youtubing, pulling parts in an effort to find a hint of resolve to this perplexing problem = linkage vs clutch. Or both?

Well I can pretty much confirm it is most definitely the clutch.
I hadn't driven the car since I arrived back to the complex yesterday morning.
I just went out and tried to drive the car for a short loop around the parking lot. After starting the car in neutral, I did eventually manage to gently force the shifter into 1st gear (never any grinding).
I park backed in on a slight 3°-5° decline. With the clutch pedal depressed I would expect, as gravity would have it, to be gradually, freely rolling forward. The car did not move (felt like the brakes were depressed).
Having sat there for a while with the clutch pedal depressed; sure enough the car started moving forward seemingly under power as if I was letting out the clutch. So I let out the clutch to drive it through the lot for a few hundred feet.
Well even in 1st gear these little cars are quick - I pushed in the clutch pedal in preparation to slow down. Nope - the little bastard just kept pulling forward under power regardless of the clutch pedal being depressed.

I momentarily had flashbacks to 40years ago - the day when one of my beetle's clutch had failed.
Same scenario.

Yeah - the cost for the clutch replacement has left me feeling a bit numb. To put it mildly.

Will update with additional findings and / or when repairs are underway.

Thanks!

 

That sucks.

 

Seconded

 

Thanks guys.
I'm not sure if you had caught my previous unedited reply.
My extraneous personal issues (edited out) should have had no place regarding the mechanical issues with my Mini.

Thank you just the same.

 

Where (general area) are you located, if the HOA / property management Karens won't allow car work, even the clearly emergent kind like this, maybe someone on this board nearby could lend a hand and/or a driveway to help do the job(?)

Also, apparently there are apps / websites now for renting out wrenching space:

https://www.motorbiscuit.com/rent-diy-garage/

 

Thanks @Daftlad - I'm stuck here in the metro Atlanta, GA area.
I really don't know anyone out here. I live in an apt complex. It is a common (literally ) every weekend sight to see me working on my Mini in the lot.
I've gotten away with doing some pretty extensive work on my car in the parking lot with absolutely no complaints. However, dropping the subframe and transmission is without question - drawing the line .
I would also prefer and don't think it's an ideal environment to perform this level of work.
I have watched ModMini's video on clutch R&R. Although it's a lot of work - Having to drop the subframe anyway in order to pull the trans = It only makes some sense to me since; I've had nearly $2,000 in new front end parts that have been sitting in my livingroom in anticipation for a complete front end refresh (ball joints, axles, pre-pressed PF CA bushings, coilovers, top hat/strut bearings, SB/bushings, tie rods, etc...).
I do have access to a relative's garage 80miles North (near the mountains) but getting the car there and having the time to do the job will undoubtedly cost me my job given the workload they have planned. Renting a Uhaul (van?) and a trailer maybe a (logical?) option if I don't run the risk of losing employment.
I followed the link to the site you referred to. Honestly - I am totally confused. I couldn't seem to find a link on that site that relates to short term garage space rental. I'm still googling the keyword for short term rental space within my metro area.

I'm currently waiting to receive a response from a reputable shop here in hopes to schedule an appointment and projected time frame. They are a busy shop so my chances of getting in soon are pretty slim. I imagine.

 

This site might be better:
https://www.neighbor.com/garages-nea...eorgia/atlanta

Anyway agree the apartment parking lot is not the ideal environment, if for no other reason than the summer heat. Hopefully this new shop can cut you a good deal on a clutch job.

Failing that - maybe give Way Motor Works a call; they're in/near Atlanta somewhere. Believe they work on cars in addition to selling parts, if they're too far or can't get to it right away perhaps they could recommend a place in your more immediate area and timeframe.

 

Question:
LUK or Valeo?
I'm thinking of staying with dual mass unless others here have an experienced opinion = brand, dual or single mass.

You guys have been of great help and insight.
Thanks once more for your kind attention.

 

I’m actually back in Atlanta, so depending on scheduling, I might be able to lend a hand. I have experience with pulling the subframe and other suspension bits, but I haven’t ever pulled a transmission.

Unfortunately, I don’t have garage space here to lend. I’m currently trying to figure out if I have any car guy friends in the ATL. Mine are mostly scattered across the nation at this point. I did just have the thought of throwing up a post on the GA MINIAC Facebook page to see if any of those guys could help. I don’t personally know any of them, but they seem like a good bunch.

 

@deepgrey - Wow man that is cool of you to reach out to try and help me like this.
Thank you!

This has got to be one of the most trying couple of days I've ever had.
I had spent hours last night trying to source a short term DIY rental garage that would allow working on cars.
I am sure there are HAS got to be one close by (especially where I live), but came to a dead end each time.

At 8:30 this morning - I had finally resided to have the Mini towed to a reputable shop.
However, (of course), things didn't exactly go as I planned.
Tow truck was scheduled to pick up and transport my Mini for drop off @10:30am, 17mi away to the Mini garage of choice.

The tow truck was a no-show until 3:45pm this afternoon. I was so exhausted from the constant back and forth with roadside assistance during the entire afternoon.
By then it was so late in the day, still not having transportation arranged to get to work tomorrow; I had to have the car dropped off at my second BMW mechanic choice. Closer to home.
Thank goodness for MARTA. I finally arrived back this evening just before 7:30pm.



As strange as it may sound - by that time I was almost looking forward to pulling the trans and doing clutch job myself. Yeah - and a clutch slave bleed too! . My day was that bad.
I'm almost certain it would've been less taxing on my nerves than what I just went through today.

My head still hurts.

 

Man. You should have brought it down on a Uhaul to Panama City beach. I could have knocked it out for you for cheap.

 

You are soooo right!
An 11hr day in hell - when I could have made it to the Gulf in just 5.

 

The alternate shop that I had to tow my Mini to insists that it isn't the clutch.
Avoiding any sort of uncomfortable debate -
I respectfully disagree.
But willing/reluctantly awaiting "their" diagnosis.
I hope they're right.

 

Just thinking out loud here. What about the axles? I seem to recall that someone had an issue with one not seating properly. As you've seen in my thread, both mine seemed perfectly fine until I went to remove them and they literally fell apart. Maybe just jamming up. Worth checking.

Side note: If you haven't already done so, "invest" in a AAA membership. I get the "plus" with the 200 miles of towing. It will pay for itself (ask me how I know) - and relieve some of the stress of towing (you still have to wait for them) - but I've not paid for a tow in years!

 

Let me first preface by saying : I am not in the habit of (or at least avoid) making disparaging remarks about people or companies. In fact I feel it is in poor taste. So I try not to.

Update:
Since I last posted; I had my Min towedi to a reputable BMW/Mini "repair shop".
6 days later and the most shocking, memorable (would prefer to forget) experience while riding the metro public transportation system, the garage ultimately failed to fix, let alone diagnose the main cause of the shifter, defunct clutch(?) or gearbox seizing problem.
1 step forward 2 steps back:
After an expensive long and fruitless wait, I retrieved my (still un-repaired) Mini from the aforementioned (will remain nameless) BMW/Mini repair shop.

Back home; Once again my Mini was pulled up on to a flatbed bound for it's next stop....



A 40 minute, 20 mile haul up the interstate....we made it here --->


^^^ ^^^ ^^^
It was time put my Mini into hands of this guy (coincidentally, my initial/first choice) to work his magic....
With high hopes he can make my Mini well and get my life back motoring again.

You'll never know how much you'll miss your Mini - Until you experience "public" transportation.

 

Way will get it right. May pay a little more. But it will be fixed promptly.

 

Look forward to hearing a resolution because it has me puzzled as well.