We have a kiddo so rear seat delete is a no-go. Perhaps sound deadening over the trunk and more in the hatch would help? I may give that a go.

 

Guys, just want to celebrate what a milestone this was. Beyond now harboring eternal hatred for BMW hose clamps, it wasn't that bad and I could go twice as fast round two. Now onto the fun stuff!!

 

if you don’t have a hatch cover, those make a big difference in sound.


also I put foam in the rear bumper vents you see in the trunk at bottom jsut above the floor on rear hatch trim.

And that helped a lot on the PW since it doesn’t have a cover.

 

^^ The fun begins!

x2 on the bumper vents. We also put sound deadener around the battery box and that little trunk area. It really helped to calm the sound in the interior.- And this is the car with the catless header and the resonated milltek.

 

And so its starts...

 

I don't have a hatch cover and lucky for me, a guy had one posted on ebay with local pick up, just 15 min away for $45. Jumped on the deal and got it this morning. Thanks for the tip on the foam.

 

Indeed!

 

Fun new toys in the mail this weekend.

@Jpoole gave me a deal on some mint PSS 10's and went with @Boostmaster inspired build mods on the Irish Engineering fixed camber plates from @WayMotorWorks (17% pulley too) - thanks fellas!

Can't wait to see how this rides and handles, but next need to research the best options for sway bar, bushings, motor mounts etc. for a daily driver up on a budget. Plus that pulled motor to upgrade before going anywhere! Weekends way are too short...

 

LSD arrived! Went Blackline as I've not see a bad review (here's hoping I'm not the exception) of this Quaife replica, to the extent it seems parts are interchangable. This was on sale in the UK and shipped to my house for under $600 - meaning budget remains for more fun to come. No instructions so I'll be FULLY dependent on forums and the wonders of YouTube for install guidance.

Next step is fun in the garage this weekend - family is away and I expect a lot will get done!

 

Super simple job- probably the easiest in this build. Lots of guides online. Just take your time. Feel free to ask any questions you may have. Good luck and enjoy the fun!

 

Thanks! And while I have you and others, a few restoration questions since you're fresh off the finish line on these:


Tears in the lower motor mount. I'll scour the board but if anyone has ideas for an all-temperature, daily drive lower mount that helps with performance, I'm all ears


Front of the engine after removing layer upon layer of muck and crud. Oil everywhere from the bottom half down, dry as a bone on top. I'm replacing oil pan gasket (should i do pan itself too?) and it appears oil was coming from the crank sensor as well - O-ring it is! I also wonder if superchanger leaks could contribute to the mess? Have a rebuid to install and new gaskets either way


Pretty clear on the back, though this photo is after I started degreasing. There's a definite leakage around the filter housing gasket.


After lots of scraping and wire brushing - the rust on the subframe isn't horrible, and I've already treated the bottom so I likely won't pull it. What about bushings, should I replace? And I assume I can rust treat the steering rack joint and call it a day, but please LMK if I'm missing something.

Finally, ordered a whiteline sway bar today - looks like a good balance for my needs. Noticed the end links on both sides have torn boots, so add that to the list as well....

 

In my opinion, based upon my experience, if you want to do this correctly, blast the engine with brake cleaner/gasoline and get everything clean. Paint the block when you're done. I would also recommend dropping the sub-frame. You're already in there and it's not much more work to drop it. Replace ALL the bushings and bearings. They are worn and it's simply easier to do it now. AND, you can clean and paint as you go. This will make it easier to work with and easier to deal with later as you continue on your journey.

Side note: my car ran and drove fine before I did anything. When I pulled the sub-frame, I discovered other issues AND discovered that the steering shaft was seized! Drop the sub-frame and redo everything. It's not much work or expense.

Trying to cut corners now is futile. Everything is worn. Presume prior owners cared for nothing. Make this as new as possible and you'll be ahead of the curve.

 

Ha, I know you're right. It's just every time I take the next step there's more money to spend! I want this as reliable as can be without coming back, and keeping my eye on new car prices (i.e. that GR86 I was eying) puts things into perspective - I'll drop that subframe tomorrow.

 

^^ I know the pain you feel. However, for the amount of money I spent to do mine, it would truly equate to a few months of car payments and full coverage insurance payments on a financed car. Besides, I prefer a car I can work on.

Trust me, you'll be glad you dropped the sub-frame. Gives you a chance to clean all the grease and grime that has accumulated, and you'll be able to make sure all the other goodies underneath are new and everything will be clean and SO much easier to work on.

I covered mine with POR to hopefully stave off the rust issues and keep everything nice and clean. Might want to consider doing something similar as you have more salty roads than we do. Just future proofing as much as possible.

 

Done! The frame is really clean for Chicago roads. Inner ball joints look great and must have been recent. Don't want to rattle around in my car but I read great things about the powerflex control arm bushings - may give that a go but don't have a press... Gonna have a go at the sway bar bushings as well but will keep 'em stock.

 

I did stock bushings and ball joints. I usually use Lemforder brand (BMW stuff). Some of mine looked good but I did not want to have to do this again so I did all new all the way around. I've used the power flex on a couple cars now and they are great. It's ideal to have a press (standard 12 ton from Harbor Freight is like $170. - You won't use it all the time but it will always come in handy and save you a ton of money and time when you do need it). If you don't want to buy a press I think you can still do the power flex with some creative c- clamps and plates.

 

I have posted this in the past but searching it out would take a lot of time.

If you order though the .co.uk web site, even with the import tax, you will save money. They make road and competition versions of the upper and lower mounts. I got the upper mount for my R50. 3 day shipping, tax and retail price of the mount was still cheaper than the .com site. I do not know why, but it was.

https://www.vibra-technics.co.uk/min...53_12_03_07_06

 

Thanks for the lead. Vibra-technics seem the best all-around but damn they are pricey. I'm going to start with Rock Auto choices for mounts and Powerflex upper/lower inserts for about $300 less - with the theory that the inserts will reinforce a lower quality option. I know what to look for when mounts start to fail and I'll come back to this improved setup next time around.

UPDATE: couldn't find a single good review on Rock Auto options. Met in the middle and went OEM (Lemforder)

@Boostmaster how are the vibrations with those inserts in place? I believe you used them too. And good news, friend of a friend has a press for those control arm bushings, and they're coming in the mail.

 

A wire wheel uncovers a lot. Glad I caught that the ball joint mount on the left lower control arm has structural damage - seems dangerous. At least the other side looks fine and an OEM replacement is on the way.

 

Glad you dropped the sub frame! There's always hidden surprises. As for the inserts, it's not bad. The car does not really have much in the vibration dept as I used stock OE and Lemforder for most of the bits save for the upper strut mount, the inserts and some of the powerflex in the corners.

Do yourself a favor and replace all the ball joints and bushings. Many of mine looked decent but I figured for a few bucks more, I'd have all new bits and could now be able to know for 100% certain what was done and when.

 

Yep seen that on the salt belt MINIs. I would replace both lower arms. The front of the MINIs steel gets pretty rusty. Also the rear subframe rots out. I replaced mine and rebuilt the whole front suspension new. Salt in ohio year after year really beats them up.

 

^^ I'm sure that's not what he wanted to hear, but it was my initial concern and the reason for the recommendation. Sometimes it looks all good until you start cleaning and fiddling with some of these bits and then you discover more issues that you were unaware of. Also the reason I cleaned and put POR over all of it and then sprayed the underside with some protectant. I saw it here: Minute 13:00 is where he starts talking about the spray...

This guy was a city/county police motorpool shop foreman in Chicago- I'm sure he's seen some rust. So I did the same with my car. ( and have a few more cans to do the others)

Hope the rest of the frames are in good shape!

 

I'm dropping the rear subframe this weekend with hope a full replacement isn't required! The front one was easily removed surface rust so hoping I get lucky.

You're right on replacing both control arms (sigh). The mounting point on the right one looks fine but, with them being hollow and rust flakes ratting around inside, there's no telling what's hiding beneath.

@Boostmaster good insights on the vid you shared; I like the idea of a spray nozzle hose to get into said hollow control arms and other hard-to-reach places. Since I shamelessly steal your ideas, seems POR15 and Amzoil metal protector is the way to go.

 

Yep the rear sub has 4 main bolts that hold to the body. I got a new one as the old one was toast. The body itself was in good shape. All that black painted/coated steal was rusted bad. I could not even get the inner upper control arm bolt off, its was rusted solid. All new hardware also throughout the car as the old heads were rusted and pitted very bad. I cleaned them off with a wire brush , i just worried that i would spin one off.

On the fuel tank i replaced them with stainless steel hardware which we carry.

 

Steal away! It's why I posted so much info. No need to try and reinvent the wheel. Besides, I also had a ton of help and guidance from fellow board members.

We're in this together!!