R50/53 [Edited] The Berkeley Cooper S Rebuild
I’m narrowing it down.
I swapped the starter and AC relays. Two loud clicks, and in the third time, it started!!! It started!!! And it ran!
But I shut it down and it would not restart. This is making me think I need to check the cable to the starter solenoid.
I swapped the starter and AC relays. Two loud clicks, and in the third time, it started!!! It started!!! And it ran!
But I shut it down and it would not restart. This is making me think I need to check the cable to the starter solenoid.
Problem Solved!
Tested battery voltage first. Then tried a jump pack for extra power. No go.
Swapped relays, it started exactly once.
Checked voltage at starter, it was good.
Then, I brushed my hand over one of the nuts on the starter solenoid, and something moved! Aha! There are three nut/bolts: 12V power from battery, 12V trigger from the relay inside fuse box, and a cable between solenoid and starter (no external cable,). It was this third bolt that was missing a nut. Must have removed it when the starter was off the car. I threaded a bolt and tightened it up, then re-attached the battery. That was it!
I ran a scan tool and I have just one error:
P1.1234 DME: Fuel-Pump Relay, Primary Circuit - Input Low
Swapped relays, it started exactly once.
Checked voltage at starter, it was good.
Then, I brushed my hand over one of the nuts on the starter solenoid, and something moved! Aha! There are three nut/bolts: 12V power from battery, 12V trigger from the relay inside fuse box, and a cable between solenoid and starter (no external cable,). It was this third bolt that was missing a nut. Must have removed it when the starter was off the car. I threaded a bolt and tightened it up, then re-attached the battery. That was it!
I ran a scan tool and I have just one error:
P1.1234 DME: Fuel-Pump Relay, Primary Circuit - Input Low
Last edited by Rebound; Nov 1, 2022 at 09:12 PM.
Test drive will go terribly, if I don’t bleed those brakes first!
Thank you so much for your enthusiasm and support! You helped a lot!
Thank you so much for your enthusiasm and support! You helped a lot!
I thought I’d be driving the Mini today. I have very little left. I compressed the clutch slave cylinder and then attached a pressure bleeder and pumped it up. I set a five minute timer, and it dropped two PSI. Then I found brake fluid on the floor.
Bummer. So I order a new master cylinder plastic reservoir, which is probably the culprit. I’ll finish the other odds and ends this week, the reservoir arrives Wednesday or Thursday, and then I’ll bleed the system and wrap this thing up, assuming it’s the reservoir that gave up.
Bummer. So I order a new master cylinder plastic reservoir, which is probably the culprit. I’ll finish the other odds and ends this week, the reservoir arrives Wednesday or Thursday, and then I’ll bleed the system and wrap this thing up, assuming it’s the reservoir that gave up.
But I’m only going to replace the plastic reservoir, not the whole master cylinder. Like all things BMW/Mini, it’s usually the plastic. BMW plastic just isn’t very good for some reason.
Quitting is not an option.
Drove it!
She runs! It was dark and raining, so I just took a quick driveway test to shift gears and try out the steering and brakes. It goes, it stops, it steers!!!
Tomorrow is the shakedown drive, then I’ll get the inspection sticker.
Tomorrow is the shakedown drive, then I’ll get the inspection sticker.
We had a nice long drive. It passed inspection. I replaced a broken window regulator, so now the passenger window works. I still need to fix the leaking antenna base, and the power steering does not seem to be working. I’m going to get it fixed under the recall.
Not sure how much extra it would cost, but I regret not having them install new lines when I had my PS service done while they were in there. I can always do them when I drop the front subframe next year to clean/restore it and replace the oil pan gasket.
What would new lines do?
Mine were leaking and got worse over time (2months). Nearly 3-4 oz a day! New to working on my Mini - I eventually mustered the nerve to do the repulsive job of repair/replacement.
I purchased a pair if no-name-brand PS lines and preformed the installation (2.5hrs). The lines cost me $28 which included heatsheilds, crush washer & 2wo worm clamps. That was back in 2018. Hasn't leaked a drop since.
I purchased a pair if no-name-brand PS lines and preformed the installation (2.5hrs). The lines cost me $28 which included heatsheilds, crush washer & 2wo worm clamps. That was back in 2018. Hasn't leaked a drop since.
Update
It’s running great, and it’s a blast! I’ve put over 150 miles on so far. Very fun car!
I only have one fault code, P1234, and it doesn’t seem to be affecting the car, but I ordered a new fuel pump anyway. And the power steering gave up, so I’ll sort that out.
When I bought new tires, the installer told me that one of the wheels was slightly bent and needed to be double balanced. The car shimmies a bit at 90mph, so I’ll probably replace the wheels in the spring. I’ll keep an eye out for a good set.
After that, I’ll deal with the cosmetics.
I only have one fault code, P1234, and it doesn’t seem to be affecting the car, but I ordered a new fuel pump anyway. And the power steering gave up, so I’ll sort that out.
When I bought new tires, the installer told me that one of the wheels was slightly bent and needed to be double balanced. The car shimmies a bit at 90mph, so I’ll probably replace the wheels in the spring. I’ll keep an eye out for a good set.
After that, I’ll deal with the cosmetics.
Last edited by Rebound; Nov 18, 2022 at 05:50 AM.
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