R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 [Edited] The Berkeley Cooper S Rebuild

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Old Oct 3, 2022 | 06:46 PM
  #26  
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Engine is in!

I got the engine mounted! Yahooo!! It was much more work than I expected.

First I had trouble aligning the exhaust, so tonight I removed the CEBT (center exhaust bracket thingy), and that did the trick. Then the engine wouldn’t go far enough back, so I lowered the subframe. I forgot to loosen the steering link so I raised it again to loosen it. I hope I didn’t do any damage.

With the subframe lowered, I lowered the engine WAY down and got the shift links connected. They were a bear. Attaching them to the little ball joints was easy, no tools, but getting the sleeves to fit in the transmission bracket was quite difficult for me. But I got that done, the exhaust was attached and I finally got the mounts attached on both sides, and off came the hoist.

I still have a lot of work ahead of me, but I’m pretty certain there’s more work behind than ahead. Time for a well-earned cappuccino.




 
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Old Oct 4, 2022 | 12:16 AM
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Yay !! You will be driving her in no time.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2022 | 05:08 PM
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Congratulations, great work.

I think it would take me longer to make a cappuccino look like that than to install the engine.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2022 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by dmath
Congratulations, great work.

I think it would take me longer to make a cappuccino look like that than to install the engine.
Come on by, I’ve got plenty of coffee!
 
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Old Oct 18, 2022 | 08:16 AM
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Latest Update

Since my throngs of adoring fans (all two of you), are clamoring for an update, here goes:

I’ve reattached all engine electrical connectors, the axles, filled the transmission with fluid, everything behind and below the engine is perfect, installed the intake and the throttle body. The throttle body was filthy and got half a can of throttle body cleaner, which helped a lot.

Engine-wise, I only need to replace the intercooler, air intake, and the radiator/condenser. Then fill it with motor oil, coolant and power steering fluid. Not much at all!

On top of that, still need to reattach the subframe once the new bolts show up, attach all the suspension stuff, replace the shocks and brake pads/rotors, and flush the brakes and clutch. Maybe I’ll do the brakes before I put the radiator back on, to make clutch bleeding easier.



 
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Old Oct 18, 2022 | 08:35 AM
  #31  
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That looks super clean!!
You will have it together and driving it soon. I have started my cold weather not working on cars slow down; I don't like working outside in the cold. I collect parts over the winter and start again in the spring.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2022 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ChiefM
That looks super clean!!
You will have it together and driving it soon. I have started my cold weather not working on cars slow down; I don't like working outside in the cold. I collect parts over the winter and start again in the spring.
That’s how I work on cars; I clean everything. I steam cleaned the engine bay when the engine was out, and I scrubbed every part. That engine was truly caked in grease. I doused it in degreaser and steam cleaned it, which helped a lot. It was mostly that transmission bell housing that I worked in a lot because I didn’t want grease getting on the clutch.

I thought of using engine paint on a few of the components, but doing it right is an incredible amount of work.
 

Last edited by Rebound; Oct 19, 2022 at 04:07 AM.
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Old Oct 19, 2022 | 05:33 PM
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I agree with ChiefM, looks great. Outstanding work! I want to do similar to my engine bay but figure I should wait until I need to pull the engine for some other reason. Unfortunately (or fortunately, I guess), no such reason has presented itself so far.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2022 | 07:54 PM
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Today I put the intercooler on and started to put the air cleaner box back in.

I cleaned off the top of the intercooler for about 20 minutes. Then I put it on, and it wouldn’t fit, and finally I realized that I did a great job cleaning the bottom of the intercooler. Another 20 minutes cleaning the top.

Then got the air cleaner plastic parts and cleaned them up and there was a little metal bracket laying with the air cleaner parts. Hmm… Where’s that go?

It was a small bracket that bolts to the transmission and supports the throttle body. And it wasn’t going on easily, so off comes the intercooler and off comes the intake pipe and in goes the bracket and back on with the intake and back with the intercooler.

 

Last edited by Rebound; Oct 19, 2022 at 11:56 PM.
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Old Oct 20, 2022 | 01:29 AM
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Don't beat yourself up, I've done it 100 times. It's better than getting the car back together and asking now where in the heck does this thing go!!
 
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Old Oct 20, 2022 | 12:10 PM
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Airbox is back in and the coolant hoses attached.
Everything is all buttoned up topside.

I still need to put the subframe back on. I’m waiting on new bolts but I can put it back on and replace the bolts later. The axles are in, so I just need to bolt the suspension back together, replace the other three shocks and do all the brakes. And all the fluids… I put new trans fluid in, but still need to do the brake fluid/flush, steering fluid, motor oil and coolant. Pretty trivial, given everything else.


I’m hoping to turn the key this Sunday.


 
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Old Oct 20, 2022 | 01:15 PM
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You are chugging right away! Can't wait to see how the first start and drive goes.
I am in a parts hold right now. The new gromets should be delivered today and I'll do the valve cover gasket this weekend, I should have everything in so I can do the rear suspension stuff next weekend.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2022 | 07:27 PM
  #38  
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I’ll start the car tomorrow!

This is exciting! I had a very productive day!

First I drained power steering as best as I could. Then I put the subframe back on and installed the outer ball joints. Torqued everything to spec, which was fairly difficult with many bolts because it’s necessary to hold the bolt with an Allen wrench while torquing the nut. For most, I used a torque wrench with a crow foot.

Both front struts installed. Replaced the front brake rotors and pads. Put the radiator and AC condenser back on. Filled the oil and coolant. Tomorrow I’ll add more coolant and the power steering fluid, put the battery back in and see if she starts up.

This has been the biggest car project I’ve ever taken on by a long shot! My skill level has notched up a lot.




 
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Old Oct 23, 2022 | 03:19 AM
  #39  
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Looking good!!
Can't wait to hear about the first start and drive. If this is your first Mini it is going to be your favorite car pretty quickly.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2022 | 12:53 PM
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It Didn’t Start

All complete… or so I thought.
Attached the radiator, filled all the fluids and put the battery back in. The battery is new and has been on a tender all this time.

No start. I get electricity and the dashboard lights come up, the fuel pump makes its pumping sound, but the starter won’t fire at all. I’m not sure what to try next. I tried a jump pack, but it didn’t help. There was a few inches of water in the battery tray in the trunk before I began, so perhaps something shorted back there. I’m
pretty certain that I reconnected the starter correctly. I took a photo before disconnecting and followed it when I reconnected.

Any suggestions? Please?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2022 | 01:42 PM
  #41  
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Check the clutch pedal switch and your fuses. There are some in the engine compartment and some by your left foot in the driver's seat.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2022 | 02:34 PM
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Also check the passenger side ground cable to make sure the connections are clean and tight. Just don’t over tighten them as the studs or passenger motor mount casting sometimes snap.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 05:07 AM
  #43  
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If you changed the fuel filter, recheck the top of the filter housing. If it's not completely locked in place, your car will not start.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 05:45 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by cooper48
If you changed the fuel filter, recheck the top of the filter housing. If it's not completely locked in place, your car will not start.
Thank you!
I didn’t change the fuel filter, but I need every idea I can find.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 05:45 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by RB-MINI
Also check the passenger side ground cable to make sure the connections are clean and tight. Just don’t over tighten them as the studs or passenger motor mount casting sometimes snap.
I definitely re-attached that… the one on the engine mount, right?
But I’m open to every suggestion.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 05:49 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by ChiefM
Check the clutch pedal switch and your fuses. There are some in the engine compartment and some by your left foot in the driver's seat.
Where is the clutch pedal switch?
I checked all fuses in the engine bay but not in passenger footwell. And I haven’t tested the relays because I don’t know how (yet).

My first steps:
1) Attach to running vehicle with jumper cables. Make sure there’s enough power for sure.
2) There’s a small plastic module next to the battery in the hatch area. Checked it. It's just terminals for attaching jumper cables. No damage.
3) Check voltage on the 12V connector in the engine bay.
4) Try an OBD scanner. Report below. Could any of these errors cause the car to not turn the starter?

Vehicle Information
Make:BMW
Model:Cooper S
Year:2003.09
Odometer:129848 km

Inspection Result

ECM2 (Engine Control Module 2 - DME2) 1 problems exist

1.1234 DME: Fuel-Pump Relay, Primary Circuit - Input Low

ABS (Anti-Lock Braking System - DSC) 3 problems exist

1.5E5C ABS-DSC: Initialize Run Flat Indicator; See Owner's Handbook

2.5E19 ABS-DSC: CAN Data Error From DME/DDE (DSC Lamp On As Long As Error Is Present)

3.5E5D ABS-DSC: Level Sensor, Brake Fluid

SRS (Supplemental Inflatable Restraint System - AIRBAG/SGM-SIM) 1 problems

1.50 MRS: Power Supply

ZKE (Central Body Electronic) 8 problems exist

1.007B GM: License-Plate Light Or Open Circuit 2.003D GM: Unlocking Drive, Rear Lid, Or Open Circuit

3.008E GM: Heater Fan, Relay Activation, Or Open Circuit

4.003A GM: Relay, Headlight Pump, Open Circuit

5.00CB GM: LWR: Front Sensor Interruption (With Xenon Light Only)

6.00CC GM: LWR: Rear Sensor Interruption (With Xenon Light Only)

7.00C3 GM: Recirculated-Air Flap Drive Unit, Short Or Open Circuit

8.0090 GM: Info-Memory Entry: Open Circuit, Power Supply BC1

The following systems are OK: 1.EWS (Elec. Immobilize System)

2.LEW (Steering-Angle Sensor)
3.EHPS (Electrically Assisted Steering) 4.IC (Instrument Cluster - INSTR) 5.RAD (Radio)
6.AC (Air Conditioning - IHKA)
7.AIC (Automatic Interval Control) 8.SHD (Sliding/Tilting Sunroof)
9.MFL (Multi-Function Steering Wheel) 10.DSP (Digital Sound Processor)
 

Last edited by Rebound; Oct 24, 2022 at 08:19 AM.
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 10:36 AM
  #47  
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Did it run before you pulled the engine/transmission?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 10:47 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by ChiefM
Did it run before you pulled the engine/transmission?
Yes, it ran, although I had it towed to my home and I didn’t think to check it right before I began the work. No reason to suspect something happened.

I’m thinking:
1) Not enough power from battery
2) I didn’t reconnect the starter correctly
3) I didn’t reconnect something else correctly, like the fuse box or the ECU.

I am very thankful for all suggestions!
 

Last edited by Rebound; Oct 24, 2022 at 11:38 AM.
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 05:59 PM
  #49  
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I apologize if I missed this: does the starter click when you turn the key?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by dmath
I apologize if I missed this: does the starter click when you turn the key?
Thanks so much for helping! I appreciate everyone’s input.

First, I removed the fuel pump relay.
Then I tried turning the key four or five times. Each time, it made one click. Not click-click-click. Only one click.

Then I replaced the fuel pump relay and tried again. No click.
 
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