Thanks Bryan. I'm pretty sure it's going to be related to the line from the valve cover to the SC. I didn't have the code until after I replaced the valve cover. I already had the new IC on the way, so I was waiting until after I installed that before I dug further.

If that doesn't do it I may have to assume it's the charge pipe, and replace it with one of these

https://www.outmotoring.com/intake-m...xxx524439.html

 

WOW.... that's a pretty heafty price.... should be plenty of good used ones out there...

Bryan

 

That's a custom made charge pipe. Not going to find any used ones. Details here: https://www.tpeprecision.com/post/pr...harge-pipe-kit

I watched, the thread here on NAM where these guys developed this. I found the, whole process interesting. The price is high, but I understand why.

I seriously considered buying it when I was putting this together but had already spent so much that I could not justify it if my original was working. But now that it's maybe not working... 😁

They're developing an intake that I would be REALLY interested in, but it isn't in production yet. https://www.tpeprecision.com/post/on...take-manifolds

 

Since you’re neck deep in your rebuild, happen to come across replacements for the red snap grommets (that hold the tubes in the intake pipe)? I don’t know the actual name, I just know mine are toast. I’m pulling the head and SC off today to make a long list of parts needed

 

Do you still have a hood blanket? If so, is the blanket necessary to properly seal the top part of the IC to the scoop? If not, how good is the seal between the IC and scoop/hood underside?

 

Believe it or not, mine survived all the install /removals. At least, I think they did - - who knows, that may be where my leak is. 🤣

 

I still have the hood blanket. I don't think it's necessary to get a good seal-the plastic portion of the scoop under the hood comes off, and the seal matches up to the bottom of the hood.

I think it's good?

It's kinda hard to tell with the hood fully closed and latched. I guess I could snake my fiber optic lens in there to see, but I haven't been that curious.

 

Update:

IC seals tight to hood. Almost too tight. Had to reshape the rear IC brackets to get it to sit a little lower.

Did that while I had the IC off, to fix my vacuum leak. Lots of different possible sources for P1498. In my case it became highly probable that it was coming from the vacuum line that runs from the fuel pressure regulator to the nipple on the intake manifold when I found the vacuum line under a rag on my workbench. 🤬

Fixed that, reassembled everything, then drained the break in oil. Pulled the filter canister, installed a new filter, and could not get the canister to thread back on. That's when I discovered that my drain valve was missing the tab from all 3 of the prongs that hold it in. 🤬🤬🤬

That was Saturday. I ordered 2 drain valves and paid second day air to get it here Wednesday. Put everything together, filled the oil, and went for a test drive.

Wowza! 🤩

Car is running strong! No codes, no lights, 16# of boost. Very happy!

 

Glad you got the vacuum leak figured out.

You are getting only 16lbs of boost? I was getting 18+lbs with my R53 with only a 15% pulley on the supercharger.... wonder why you are getting less boost?
Glad it's running great for you

Bryan

 

That's what my Torque app is reading. 🤷

It makes sense theoretically. I increased volume of the air chambers downstream of, the SC with ported head and intake, with only a minor increase in SC rpm from the 2% crank pulley. Should be flowing more air but at aower pressure.

 

I had an actual mechanical vacuum-boost gauge connected to the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line under the intercooler.

Would be interesting to put one on your car to see if the readings for both are the same. Probably too much work though.

I'm going to install the boost gauge on my R52 over the winter. Plus a few other items as well.

Bryan

 

Add me to the list of raving @adriancl fans. As I was coming home Friday night my CEL came on again. Po172 Power Train System too rich. Makes sense-I had been runningn with a vacuum leak allowing unmetered air into the intake. Once that was resolved, the intake air volume reduced, so running rich.

I messaged Adrian and he wrote back that night (Saturday morning in his world). He offered to jump on the computer and fix it right then (not saying you're always going to get that quick of a response. The guy does have a life!). Took me almost as long to get my computer set up in the garage as it did for him to go through and make some tweaks (have to steal the router from the house, which shuts down TV service for the house, so time is of the esssence!).

Quick, helpful, knowledgeable, and great service. The guy should charge more than he does, but if he's happy with the pricing, then I'm not going to complain.

Car is running very well. I had a guy in a Challenger try to roll on me Saturday night on the way to the rink. I jumped on it when I heard him hit it (he had at least an exhaust), and stayed next to him... He lifted, probably thinking he'd left me, and I ended up doing a tuner fly-by. He nailed it again and couldn't reel me in before we both hit traffic in the lanes in front of us. Pretty impressive 30-80+ pull.

I'm too old for that stuff, but sometimes my foot thinks faster than my brain.

Time to quit messing with the Mini and get back to work on the Mustang.

 

So, here is the top of my block. I ran a hone over it (90 degree crosshatch pattern) then hit it w wire brush. Moved to sanding block w 320 (plus wd 40). Finished w red scotch bright pad. I don’t think I can do any more with it. The places where you still see dark spots (near water jackets) are extremely shallow areas of pitting. I can just barely even feel them, but the game is measured in thousandths.

so what are the thoughts about copper spray? I have seen and read that it is NOT recommended for modern viton coated gaskets but I’ve read posts from people on this sight that supports using it.

I have a new viton coated gasket in the garage. Should I just slap it on and torque it down? Add the spray? Or source a non coated gasket and use that w spray?

let the debate begin!!

 

If you're asking me, you're gonna get more questions than answers. I'm not an expert. I'm also not a fan of tearing things down twice. What's your ratio of tolerance for pain to budget?

I'd be concerned that would leak and I'd, be tearing it down again, and, then pulling it to get it machined. You can tell from my "while I'm at it" list that I don't have a lot of hope in things going my way. I bought a new short block rather than replace a rod bearing because I expect to be unlucky. I'd pull the engine and get it to a machine shop.

 

Well, another “while I’m at it” item for the list when you’re doing a HG; CHANGE YOUR SC OIL!

Ordered a couple of bottles from Amazon so I could freshen up the oil. Front oil was nasty. Rear was empty! Car has 115 k. Doubt it’s ever been serviced