My cooper S will switch on the EML light after approx 10 min driven, The light goes out after restart and I have found out that the error code is P1498. What does this code means

 

What year is your MINI?

P1498 Voltage Problem In EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit (Acura, Honda)
P1498 High speed Rad Fan Ground CTRL Rly Circuit (Chrysler, Jeep)
P1498 EGR Valve Motor Coil '3 Open or Shorted (Mazda)

See also
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co....php?p=1413076
see post #13

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co....php?p=1476837

 

It is produced 6/2005 and with CVT automatic transmission

 

check your purge valve connector/hoses.

 

P1498 has something to do with emissions I believe. We got that code Monday swapping out my DFIC for the stock IC and it threw an EML/SEL and came up with 1498. Secondary Emissions control system malfunction. We traced the problem to the intercooler boot. It turns out part was tucked under the clasp, and it was leaking boost. I'd imagine since the boost is less than expected (Leaking) the system has a heart attack over it and says the emissions system isn't working properly.

 

I still have this "big" problem (for me). I have pulled off the front of the vehicle and checked for some leaks in the area around the compressor, but there is no problem there, I think. I can drive approx 5 miles before the EML light comes and the " Engine service soon " light also comes. The car is driven without any problems, but that P1498 error is beginning to give me headpain. Someone says that I shall check the EGR valve, but I can´t find such valve on my Cooper S Automatic, 6/2005. Can anyone help me.

 

I doubt you'd have a leak at the compressor. Did you check the rubber boots on either end of the intercooler? If the brackets that hold them in place are not tight enough (or come loose) you'll get a pressure leak. Not too uncommon. Loosen the bolts and retighten them to the factory recommended torque.

 

I have checked them very serious, because other have told me that they are a big problem. But ttey seems ok. I am a mechanic myself at a Nissan Garage, so I know something about cars, but not this problem.

 

I have checked them very serious, because other have told me that they are a big problem. But ttey seems ok. I am a mechanic myself at a Nissan Garage, so I know something about cars, but not this problem.

 

I have noticed that the error always( P1498) comes, when the car is slowing down in speed and comes when the engine speed is only 1000-1700 RPM and the engine has no load from the speeder. When the car is going in normal speed and under acceleration there is no problem.

 

I've had the code show up at low speeds and at 70mph. My car just shuts down and go's into the limp mode. I can reset it by turning the car off and restarting it, but that gets a little tricky going down the freeway in traffic.I'm replaceing the pipe between the s/c and the intake manifold. I'll let you know if that fixs the problem.

 

Any work done on the horns from the SC to the IC or from the IC to the manifold? The gaskets can be kinda finicky and if you have a leak there you could throw a 1498 from that. Just thinking out loud......

 

Oh yes please let me know if your P1498 is fixed. I have spend so much time on this error, but with no success. It is nearly driving me crazy. I have been on a BMW dealer to let them tell me the problem, but they could not help, only that their computer tells them that there is a "leak after compressor"

 

My car is going back togather today, and should be on the road for a test drive tonight. I'll let you know as soon as they call.

 

It looks likes the code P1498 has been taken care of. Now i have a new one. P1698. They tell me i need to have my ECU adjusted.

 

And what have they done to fix the 1498 error?? Is your an automatic version and what year.

 

Yes it's an 05 automatic. They replaced the pipe or tube between the s/c and the t/b. Their's a plastic weld that can leaks vacuum. As soon as i get the bill I'll let you know the part number for the item if you like. How i have a different code P1698. I think i have to many mods for the ECU.

 

Is it this part you mean: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...35&hg=17&fg=05 and number 15 at the picture.

 

Thats it ,but i think the part number that they show is for a stick not an automatic. Check with the dealer

 

oops i didn't slide the frame down far enough. I see they have the automatic listed below.

 

Sorensen, if your a Tech do you have a smoke machine in the shop? If there is an induction leak, you'll find it.

 

They could not find my leak with a smoke machine. The smoke machine only has about 1 lb of pressure and the S/c about 14lb. It seems the leak in my car would only show up when driving a little hard.

 

This one hit me today too. 1st the EML came on this AM pulled over and shutdown car and started back up...only for the light to come back about 5 min later. Coming home from Work IML light was on then eventually the Service Engine light. Pulled codes with my Android Phone and BlueTooth OBDII adapter and got P1498 code.

Anyway to visibly inspect if there is a crack in the plastic inlet duct at the supercharger w/o tearing the car apart? Part 15

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...35&hg=17&fg=05

http://minicooperforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85

Dont have a rough idle..only 1st thing in the AM right after start..but goes away nearly immediately.

Also how hard is this to replace?

Thx

cp

 

So far I am leaning towards intercooler boots leaking/ajar. Fixed those up last night and "so far" no more codes.

 

Have had the same intemittent problems resulting in fault 1498 codes. Local mechanic replaced sensor 2x; problem returned. Went to dealer; blamed local mechanic for using non-Mini sensor. Had local guy replace with Mini sensor; problem reappeared. Said battery was outputting low voltage, possibly causing problem. Replaced battery. Problem returned. Back to dealer, ran smoke test; said thermostat was bad; replaced it under warranty as it was the third one. Problem returned. Back to dealer, who said they found two small leaks, one around tube from supercharger to valve cover, one from gasket between supercharger and black intake tube. Dealer said the work would cost 3040.00. I said, "not today, please put it back together". Idiot lights have only returned once, briefly, on a very cold day. So, what should this really cost to fix, and should I really worry? Car, fortunately, runs fine.