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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
Getting the 08 MCS back running. R56/N14 A/T w/120k. Did a bunch of stuff to it after buying it with a known bad head gasket, basically the timing kit, detroit tuned upgrades, plus head work while it was out. Put it back together and had low compression on one cylinder (#4), through the car ran pretty smoothly on 3 cylinders (quietly too). Pulled the head off again, and about 2" of piston lands were detached on the #4 cylinder. No damage to the cylinder wall. Replaced the piston with good used, honed the cylinders, and rings all the way around. Cycled the engine through multiple times while doing that work with no weird sounds. I think I got it right.
Putting everything back together today. Timing casette in, hub bolt in and torqued, cam sprockets in and torqued. Timing is spot on when re-checked after multiple revolutions. Installed the HPFP and thermostat housing as well. But I get a "tick" from the passenger/#1 cylinder side of the engine, 4 times per intake cam revolution. It actually seems to knock right when the semi-circle shape of the VANOS sprocket hits 12:00 (see pic below). I'm turning the car over manually, not running it. There is no oil in the car, and I have not re-installed the VANOS solenoid. The VANOS was sitting for about 2 months out of the car. From underneath, the sound comes from above. From above, the sound comes from the left (and probably back) but I can't narrow it down any more than while running it with one wife-power at the crank.
Any idea what could be causing it? I think the VANOS is supposed to be filled with oil, so my hope is this is what it sounds like when it's drained, but I had it out for a year when I did the work the first time and it didn't sound like this. I'm stumped, and more than a little frustrated. Ideas?
seem to get the tick right when the 4 semi-circles come up to the 12:00 position....
[stock photo sprocket, not mine]
I am stumped as to what would make a sound four times per revolution. (dont the cams spin at 1/2 the crankshaft speed?) I know when I did mine, it turned over quietly, or I would have been very sheepish about running it. I have done stupid stuff like hit pistons to valves with mis timed engines.
I hate to be 'that guy' but are you sure INTAKE and EXHAUST are face up on the cams? also, once I had a problem with the pin from the timing tool fitting loosely in the crankcase pulley, because there were two holes that the pin fit in, that's why I use straws to see if the pistons are where they should be.
I am stumped as to what would make a sound four times per revolution. (dont the cams spin at 1/2 the crankshaft speed?) I know when I did mine, it turned over quietly, or I would have been very sheepish about running it. I have done stupid stuff like hit pistons to valves with mis timed engines.
I hate to be 'that guy' but are you sure INTAKE and EXHAUST are face up on the cams? also, once I had a problem with the pin from the timing tool fitting loosely in the crankcase pulley, because there were two holes that the pin fit in, that's why I use straws to see if the pistons are where they should be.
Just trying to help...
I ordered the new torx bolts so I'll re-run the procedure by the book this time and see if it's something I missed or did wrong. And I'll confirm the cylinders are all at 90 degrees but the timing does appear to be exactly correct with the marks straight up and the pin slipping in with the cams like that. I'd be shocked if I got that wrong, and also if they had another hole in the flywheel, but hey, stranger things have happened. Thanks for the feedback.
@MiniToBe I only had the tensioner threaded slightly when I did the initial assembly, it is now fully in and tight to the head. The first time I had done this job, it was incredibly difficult to start the threads with the chain in place because you have to compress the spring in a couple inches before the threads catch. I was trying to avoid that. But I removed the guide on top/between the sprockets and backed off the tensioner while troubleshooting and it didn't make any difference.
Once I have the chain off again I'll spin the cam independently to see if it's coming from the cam , VANOS, or valves. Thanks all for the input, the extra eyes help.
would it be possible to turn everything independantly and see what is making the noise? turn the crank with no head on, then put the head on and turn one cam with the pistons in a safe spot, then the other cam...
Just to close the loop on this thread, I did get new cam bolts and re-time everything very carefully per the Bentley. It was no different, still 4 knocks for every revolution on the cam. Seems like it may have been generated by the cam lobe peaking on the roller but hard to say. Having no other options other than tearing into the head again, I completed assembly and it fired up. Seems to run super strong and no loud noises from the engine I can hear. It's my first time driving a Mini so I can't say definitively it's as quiet as they come, but it's a lot quieter than my e90. I hear some tapping but I'm being super sensitive to it and I think it's just the DI doing its thing.
Anyway, thanks for the views and advice. Super happy to have this one completed. It's been a long strange trip.