Cold Engine Rattle/Knock but NOT timing chain tensioner
Cold Engine Rattle/Knock but NOT timing chain tensioner
Again, this is NOT another timing chain tensioner thread, I know all about that issue, have had the issue, heard the rattle by the timing chain, and had it replaced under TSB/warranty, and has been quiet ever since.
I noticed this new sound a week ago, sounds just like the cold start rattle from the TC tensioner, but its clear when you put your ear up to it that its coming from the cylinder section of the engine, not at the passenger side end where you normally hear the TC. Its between cylinder 2/3, so its one of the two. I'll take a stethiscope to it at some point and find out just which one it is. But anyhow, its a very clear and distinct rattle/knock sound, occuring consistently with the idling, 800 RPMs or so?
At first I thought the engine was low on oil since it started consuming a quart in 1.5ish-2k miles (wasn't looking too closely at this point), but I had checked and it was on the closer to full line side. Regardless I was due for an oil chance so yesterday I changed the oil in hoping it'd remedy the issue. Topped it off to the full line on the dipstick, fired her up, same issue. My thoughts initially were that it was the lifters, and possibly the cam follower? But being full of oil made me doubt the lifters, though its still possible.
The two times I inspected this, (yesterday and last week), the engine was semi cold (sat for a few hours after being at operating temps), though, ambient lately has been 35-50*F (new england). Today, I drove 100 miles for work and when I got there I got out and listened, and all was quiet, no knocking. So once the oil is warmed up, its lubricating properly and not causing noises. At least so I think its the oil.
Has anyone had issues with the lifters or cam follower, or had these symptoms and not have it be the timing chain tensioner?
With the consumption of oil and a tiny bit of coolant (but coolant has been doing this since new and dealer said normal), I thought maybe my piston ring/skirt was going. I'm at 62k now so out of warranty.
Ideas would be great, thanks.
I noticed this new sound a week ago, sounds just like the cold start rattle from the TC tensioner, but its clear when you put your ear up to it that its coming from the cylinder section of the engine, not at the passenger side end where you normally hear the TC. Its between cylinder 2/3, so its one of the two. I'll take a stethiscope to it at some point and find out just which one it is. But anyhow, its a very clear and distinct rattle/knock sound, occuring consistently with the idling, 800 RPMs or so?
At first I thought the engine was low on oil since it started consuming a quart in 1.5ish-2k miles (wasn't looking too closely at this point), but I had checked and it was on the closer to full line side. Regardless I was due for an oil chance so yesterday I changed the oil in hoping it'd remedy the issue. Topped it off to the full line on the dipstick, fired her up, same issue. My thoughts initially were that it was the lifters, and possibly the cam follower? But being full of oil made me doubt the lifters, though its still possible.
The two times I inspected this, (yesterday and last week), the engine was semi cold (sat for a few hours after being at operating temps), though, ambient lately has been 35-50*F (new england). Today, I drove 100 miles for work and when I got there I got out and listened, and all was quiet, no knocking. So once the oil is warmed up, its lubricating properly and not causing noises. At least so I think its the oil.
Has anyone had issues with the lifters or cam follower, or had these symptoms and not have it be the timing chain tensioner?
With the consumption of oil and a tiny bit of coolant (but coolant has been doing this since new and dealer said normal), I thought maybe my piston ring/skirt was going. I'm at 62k now so out of warranty.
Ideas would be great, thanks.
Neutral
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
I had my 2002 "S" have a loud knock like someone hammering inside the engine
with a ball peen hammer. Turns out they pulled the oil pan and a big end bearing
had lost its oiling and burnt out from what they think was possibly the previous
owners not using good oil or not changing oil. The engine needs replacement I am
still trying to decide what to do.
with a ball peen hammer. Turns out they pulled the oil pan and a big end bearing
had lost its oiling and burnt out from what they think was possibly the previous
owners not using good oil or not changing oil. The engine needs replacement I am
still trying to decide what to do.
@etalij, yes. you can put your ear right up by the coils and hear it. gets noticeably louder over the middle cylinders compared to the outer ones, thus making it sound like its somewhere within the cylinder/piston itself.
@Bob, did your car still run OK? Once fully warm I still have full power and doesn't hesitate to get up to speed and or accelerate briskly.
I had attributed the sudden 2-3mpg drop in gas mileage due to the changeover in gas blend for the winter (again, new england), and i'm hoping its still true but I won't really find out till the spring...
Also, side note I change every 5k with M1 0W40
@Bob, did your car still run OK? Once fully warm I still have full power and doesn't hesitate to get up to speed and or accelerate briskly.
I had attributed the sudden 2-3mpg drop in gas mileage due to the changeover in gas blend for the winter (again, new england), and i'm hoping its still true but I won't really find out till the spring...
Also, side note I change every 5k with M1 0W40
I had my 2002 "S" have a loud knock like someone hammering inside the engine
with a ball peen hammer. Turns out they pulled the oil pan and a big end bearing
had lost its oiling and burnt out from what they think was possibly the previous
owners not using good oil or not changing oil. The engine needs replacement I am
still trying to decide what to do.
with a ball peen hammer. Turns out they pulled the oil pan and a big end bearing
had lost its oiling and burnt out from what they think was possibly the previous
owners not using good oil or not changing oil. The engine needs replacement I am
still trying to decide what to do.
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,808
Likes: 3
@etalij, yes. you can put your ear right up by the coils and hear it. gets noticeably louder over the middle cylinders compared to the outer ones, thus making it sound like its somewhere within the cylinder/piston itself.
@Bob, did your car still run OK? Once fully warm I still have full power and doesn't hesitate to get up to speed and or accelerate briskly.
I had attributed the sudden 2-3mpg drop in gas mileage due to the changeover in gas blend for the winter (again, new england), and i'm hoping its still true but I won't really find out till the spring...
Also, side note I change every 5k with M1 0W40
@Bob, did your car still run OK? Once fully warm I still have full power and doesn't hesitate to get up to speed and or accelerate briskly.
I had attributed the sudden 2-3mpg drop in gas mileage due to the changeover in gas blend for the winter (again, new england), and i'm hoping its still true but I won't really find out till the spring...
Also, side note I change every 5k with M1 0W40
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
It's because the Prince engine is a piece of ****. If I had known it was a Prince engine in the R56 instead of a BMW engine... I would have passed.
You likely damaged the cylinder at some point, the timing chain like to rip teeth off, and dump them into the oil pan.
You likely damaged the cylinder at some point, the timing chain like to rip teeth off, and dump them into the oil pan.
6th Gear
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,790
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City
He said he's hearing it in the valve area of the head, not down in the block - I doubt it's anything but lifters taking a little longer to pump up. Worst case scenario, replace the lifters....
Does it go away when you rev it up, or follow the engine RPMs?
It does go away after driving a bit, right?
If those are the case, it's probably not a piston or rod, Usually a worn piston skirt will make noise when cold, but go away as it warms up as the piston heats up and reduces the clearance to the side walls of the cylinder. A bad rod will knock on every revolution and will not go away, in fact it will get louder as the engine revs up, and there will be a noticeable loss of performance, especially as it continues to get worse.
Back in the 80's, when Porsche 944's and Audi 5000's first came out with hydraulic lifters, once in a while you'd get one that would tap like mad on cold starts, sometimes it was just due to bleed down and they'd "fix" themselves after driving some more, sometimes you had to replace the lifters themselves.
I think you're hearing lifter noise, and I'd go ahead and keep driving it unless it gets a lot louder/worse.....
Does it go away when you rev it up, or follow the engine RPMs?
It does go away after driving a bit, right?
If those are the case, it's probably not a piston or rod, Usually a worn piston skirt will make noise when cold, but go away as it warms up as the piston heats up and reduces the clearance to the side walls of the cylinder. A bad rod will knock on every revolution and will not go away, in fact it will get louder as the engine revs up, and there will be a noticeable loss of performance, especially as it continues to get worse.
Back in the 80's, when Porsche 944's and Audi 5000's first came out with hydraulic lifters, once in a while you'd get one that would tap like mad on cold starts, sometimes it was just due to bleed down and they'd "fix" themselves after driving some more, sometimes you had to replace the lifters themselves.
I think you're hearing lifter noise, and I'd go ahead and keep driving it unless it gets a lot louder/worse.....
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Right, its not down in the block-- I'm steering away from the timing chain issue everyone else is talking about, since I've experienced this and had it replaced already I know what the difference there is.
I have to check with the following RPMs, but I do know once oil gets up to temp it does go away. I'm also pretty sure this only came about when temps started dropping, thus, colder oil... worse lubrication. As for you saying if those are the cases, its probably not a piston or rod, as the piston skirt will stop making noise with thermal expansion of the metal... aren't you contradicting yourself?
I was afraid of this, since I know these skirts are known for collapsing with the carbon and high boost combos.
I'll report back about the RPM's, when I have someone else aroudn to listen. You can't really hear it from the drive seat or even standing outside the driver door.. you really gotta get up next to the hood and turn your ear. Though, its mainly because these DI engines make so much noise as it is lol.
As for the 5000's, my father had one for 10 years, thing was beastly. We've had a string of audi's in the family now, '87 5000, '95 90*, '97 A6Avant*, '05 A4 1.8T, '07 S4 4.2LV8, '07 A4 2.0T*, '11 A6 3.0(T)S/C*, '11 A4 2.0T*
The (*) means still own/drive. Half of those are/were my brother's though, who is an audi maniac. the '97 A6 was my previous car, now my younger brother's.
Back on topic, so if the lifters are the culprit (assuming I continue driving and nothing gets worse), they're OK to leave as is unless they get worse, right? (This is what I've known about them, but never encountered it myself so this would be a first for me).
Thanks
I have to check with the following RPMs, but I do know once oil gets up to temp it does go away. I'm also pretty sure this only came about when temps started dropping, thus, colder oil... worse lubrication. As for you saying if those are the cases, its probably not a piston or rod, as the piston skirt will stop making noise with thermal expansion of the metal... aren't you contradicting yourself?
I was afraid of this, since I know these skirts are known for collapsing with the carbon and high boost combos.
I'll report back about the RPM's, when I have someone else aroudn to listen. You can't really hear it from the drive seat or even standing outside the driver door.. you really gotta get up next to the hood and turn your ear. Though, its mainly because these DI engines make so much noise as it is lol.
As for the 5000's, my father had one for 10 years, thing was beastly. We've had a string of audi's in the family now, '87 5000, '95 90*, '97 A6Avant*, '05 A4 1.8T, '07 S4 4.2LV8, '07 A4 2.0T*, '11 A6 3.0(T)S/C*, '11 A4 2.0T*
The (*) means still own/drive. Half of those are/were my brother's though, who is an audi maniac. the '97 A6 was my previous car, now my younger brother's.
Back on topic, so if the lifters are the culprit (assuming I continue driving and nothing gets worse), they're OK to leave as is unless they get worse, right? (This is what I've known about them, but never encountered it myself so this would be a first for me).
Thanks
He said he's hearing it in the valve area of the head, not down in the block - I doubt it's anything but lifters taking a little longer to pump up. Worst case scenario, replace the lifters....
Does it go away when you rev it up, or follow the engine RPMs?
It does go away after driving a bit, right?
If those are the case, it's probably not a piston or rod, Usually a worn piston skirt will make noise when cold, but go away as it warms up as the piston heats up and reduces the clearance to the side walls of the cylinder. A bad rod will knock on every revolution and will not go away, in fact it will get louder as the engine revs up, and there will be a noticeable loss of performance, especially as it continues to get worse.
Back in the 80's, when Porsche 944's and Audi 5000's first came out with hydraulic lifters, once in a while you'd get one that would tap like mad on cold starts, sometimes it was just due to bleed down and they'd "fix" themselves after driving some more, sometimes you had to replace the lifters themselves.
I think you're hearing lifter noise, and I'd go ahead and keep driving it unless it gets a lot louder/worse.....
Does it go away when you rev it up, or follow the engine RPMs?
It does go away after driving a bit, right?
If those are the case, it's probably not a piston or rod, Usually a worn piston skirt will make noise when cold, but go away as it warms up as the piston heats up and reduces the clearance to the side walls of the cylinder. A bad rod will knock on every revolution and will not go away, in fact it will get louder as the engine revs up, and there will be a noticeable loss of performance, especially as it continues to get worse.
Back in the 80's, when Porsche 944's and Audi 5000's first came out with hydraulic lifters, once in a while you'd get one that would tap like mad on cold starts, sometimes it was just due to bleed down and they'd "fix" themselves after driving some more, sometimes you had to replace the lifters themselves.
I think you're hearing lifter noise, and I'd go ahead and keep driving it unless it gets a lot louder/worse.....
6th Gear
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,790
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City
Well. it's OK to let it go within reason....how long do you have to drive it before it gets better?
If you determine that's where the problem is, why not go ahead and fix it?
I would imagine that if it's tapping lifters and you let it go you'd have increased wear on the cam lobes from the extra clearance. I'm not saying it definitely is the lifters, especially as you say you can't hear it from inside the car. Are you sure you're not just hearing injector noise? Mine (injectors) are fairly noisey on my '09 till it warms up a bit...
Have you had it by the dealer for their most experienced tech to have a listen? Even if you have to leave it overnight to get cold - it could save you some money if they decide it's nothing to worry about.
As you can see from my sig, I'm an Audi owner too, and have owned many Audis over the years, I also worked at P+A dealers for about 17 years.....
If you determine that's where the problem is, why not go ahead and fix it?
I would imagine that if it's tapping lifters and you let it go you'd have increased wear on the cam lobes from the extra clearance. I'm not saying it definitely is the lifters, especially as you say you can't hear it from inside the car. Are you sure you're not just hearing injector noise? Mine (injectors) are fairly noisey on my '09 till it warms up a bit...
Have you had it by the dealer for their most experienced tech to have a listen? Even if you have to leave it overnight to get cold - it could save you some money if they decide it's nothing to worry about.
As you can see from my sig, I'm an Audi owner too, and have owned many Audis over the years, I also worked at P+A dealers for about 17 years.....
See responses:
Well. it's OK to let it go within reason....how long do you have to drive it before it gets better? Once water temp reaches op temp, or close, say 180F+
If you determine that's where the problem is, why not go ahead and fix it? Sure, this is true, I want to be pretty sure before tearing it apart though.
I would imagine that if it's tapping lifters and you let it go you'd have increased wear on the cam lobes from the extra clearance. I'm not saying it definitely is the lifters, especially as you say you can't hear it from inside the car. Are you sure you're not just hearing injector noise? Mine (injectors) are fairly noisey on my '09 till it warms up a bit... The injector noise is definitely different, and I can still hear it, as I have from day 1, this is a very distinct noise that towers over all other noises this dam engine makes lol
Have you had it by the dealer for their most experienced tech to have a listen? Even if you have to leave it overnight to get cold - it could save you some money if they decide it's nothing to worry about. Out of warranty, but am pretty good with the service manager. I've thought about it and may just suck up the diagnostic fee for peace of mind to figure it out. Though, many times their techs are pretty eh anyways haha.
As you can see from my sig, I'm an Audi owner too, and have owned many Audis over the years, I also worked at P+A dealers for about 17 years.....
If you determine that's where the problem is, why not go ahead and fix it? Sure, this is true, I want to be pretty sure before tearing it apart though.
I would imagine that if it's tapping lifters and you let it go you'd have increased wear on the cam lobes from the extra clearance. I'm not saying it definitely is the lifters, especially as you say you can't hear it from inside the car. Are you sure you're not just hearing injector noise? Mine (injectors) are fairly noisey on my '09 till it warms up a bit... The injector noise is definitely different, and I can still hear it, as I have from day 1, this is a very distinct noise that towers over all other noises this dam engine makes lol
Have you had it by the dealer for their most experienced tech to have a listen? Even if you have to leave it overnight to get cold - it could save you some money if they decide it's nothing to worry about. Out of warranty, but am pretty good with the service manager. I've thought about it and may just suck up the diagnostic fee for peace of mind to figure it out. Though, many times their techs are pretty eh anyways haha.
As you can see from my sig, I'm an Audi owner too, and have owned many Audis over the years, I also worked at P+A dealers for about 17 years.....
6th Gear
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,790
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City
Well, if you think the techs will be indifferent about the diagnosis, I wouldn't bother either.
You can buy an inexpensive stethescope from places like Harbor Freight, then take a good listen around the area on a cold engine, it might give you a more accurate diagnosis. Also, maybe pull the valve cover and check the bolts that hold the cam gears on to see if they're loose, and take a look at the vacuum pump as well, look for anything that looks worn.
Still, if it goes away when warm, I think I'd go back to sticky lifters.
One more possibility, does it sound like multiple taps from several sources, or a single tap from one source? If the latter, it could be an exhaust leak that closes up with expansion of the metal as the temperature goes up.
Lots of possibilities, it would be good to get an expert to listen to it....
You can buy an inexpensive stethescope from places like Harbor Freight, then take a good listen around the area on a cold engine, it might give you a more accurate diagnosis. Also, maybe pull the valve cover and check the bolts that hold the cam gears on to see if they're loose, and take a look at the vacuum pump as well, look for anything that looks worn.
Still, if it goes away when warm, I think I'd go back to sticky lifters.
One more possibility, does it sound like multiple taps from several sources, or a single tap from one source? If the latter, it could be an exhaust leak that closes up with expansion of the metal as the temperature goes up.
Lots of possibilities, it would be good to get an expert to listen to it....
Thanks for the continued input. I am planning to take apart the valve cover this long weekend to see if I can reveal anything. Its one tap from one location, around cyl 2/3 area, always the same.
Side note I know my PCV valve was leaking on the driver side onto the valve cover for some time, but has seemed to stop. Wondering if a clogged valve may have anything to do with it while cold.
Side note I know my PCV valve was leaking on the driver side onto the valve cover for some time, but has seemed to stop. Wondering if a clogged valve may have anything to do with it while cold.
Well, if you think the techs will be indifferent about the diagnosis, I wouldn't bother either.
You can buy an inexpensive stethescope from places like Harbor Freight, then take a good listen around the area on a cold engine, it might give you a more accurate diagnosis. Also, maybe pull the valve cover and check the bolts that hold the cam gears on to see if they're loose, and take a look at the vacuum pump as well, look for anything that looks worn.
Still, if it goes away when warm, I think I'd go back to sticky lifters.
One more possibility, does it sound like multiple taps from several sources, or a single tap from one source? If the latter, it could be an exhaust leak that closes up with expansion of the metal as the temperature goes up.
Lots of possibilities, it would be good to get an expert to listen to it....
You can buy an inexpensive stethescope from places like Harbor Freight, then take a good listen around the area on a cold engine, it might give you a more accurate diagnosis. Also, maybe pull the valve cover and check the bolts that hold the cam gears on to see if they're loose, and take a look at the vacuum pump as well, look for anything that looks worn.
Still, if it goes away when warm, I think I'd go back to sticky lifters.
One more possibility, does it sound like multiple taps from several sources, or a single tap from one source? If the latter, it could be an exhaust leak that closes up with expansion of the metal as the temperature goes up.
Lots of possibilities, it would be good to get an expert to listen to it....
2nd Gear
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 99
Likes: 2
I have the same issue, had it for a long time now. Sounds like valve clatter between the 2 and 3 cylinders. Goes away after oil temp is normal. Doesn't seem to affect performance and it has done it for around 30k now
2nd Gear
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 99
Likes: 2
Hey Erik, I know its a little off topic but i was wondering what your oil temps are? The reason I'm asking is that i switched to the 0w40 about 1500 miles ago and noticed my temps have been 10-15 degrees higher than they were previously. When the thermostat was stuck open the water temp would be like 165 and oil temp went from low 200s to like 210-212. Now that the coolant temp is higher (normal) the oils been like 220-225 which is a bit more noticable
Pink, I don't have an oil temp sensor, so I am not sure. Water runs normal 215-220 though. I do run 0w-40 however...
Wanted to throw in a quick update though. Was at my brother's audi mechanic (who is a good friend) this weekend, and since my car got cold while I was hanging out, I decided to have him listen to the engine when I started it. The noise was there and he immediately pointed to the HPFP. He says hes heard the same noise before, and when I explained how mini extended the warranty for the HPFP, he was convinced that was causing it, and likely not the lifters.
This may also explain the stumbling I get during the first 20 seconds of driving (which I used to think was my HPFP going, but wasn't really the same symptoms others have seen). While lightly on the throttle in 1st/2nd when taking off after a cold start, the car stumbles and jerks as though the cyl is not getting enough fuel. You can fight through it and eventually it will go away within 10-20 seconds of driving, but its repeatable. Pink, are you having this issue as well? This happened with ambient temps from 35-75F, so it seems independent of ambient temps.
Wanted to throw in a quick update though. Was at my brother's audi mechanic (who is a good friend) this weekend, and since my car got cold while I was hanging out, I decided to have him listen to the engine when I started it. The noise was there and he immediately pointed to the HPFP. He says hes heard the same noise before, and when I explained how mini extended the warranty for the HPFP, he was convinced that was causing it, and likely not the lifters.
This may also explain the stumbling I get during the first 20 seconds of driving (which I used to think was my HPFP going, but wasn't really the same symptoms others have seen). While lightly on the throttle in 1st/2nd when taking off after a cold start, the car stumbles and jerks as though the cyl is not getting enough fuel. You can fight through it and eventually it will go away within 10-20 seconds of driving, but its repeatable. Pink, are you having this issue as well? This happened with ambient temps from 35-75F, so it seems independent of ambient temps.
6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,961
Likes: 0
From: Robertsdale, Alabama
I have an 07, never had the TC tensioner issue (at least as of yet), but this morning it was 45 degrees F and car sat part day Saturday and all day Sunday. Opened bonnet and started car. Fairly loud clicking noise but it went away after about 2 minutes of warm up. Never hear it other than at cold start up.
My SA said it was just lifter/injector noise and it's common.
Let's hope so and really isn't a problem. Car runs great and my gas mileage is around 30 mpg mixed driving.
My SA said it was just lifter/injector noise and it's common.
Let's hope so and really isn't a problem. Car runs great and my gas mileage is around 30 mpg mixed driving.
Anyone seen a pending P0004 or P0001 code?
Quick google search shows both relating to fuel regulator/ voltage... Maybe this is a sign the hpfp going??
Stumbling is getting worse at start up
Quick google search shows both relating to fuel regulator/ voltage... Maybe this is a sign the hpfp going??
Stumbling is getting worse at start up
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 78
Likes: 2
Same problem with mine. 09 JCW, 32k miles. Right smack in the middle of the cam cover, exhaust cam seems to be the worst offender. Warms up, then everything works as normal.
I'm due an oil change in a few weeks, I'll likely have them address it at that point.
I'm due an oil change in a few weeks, I'll likely have them address it at that point.
Neutral
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Same engine noise...did u ever figure out what was wrong?...
Did u ever figure out what the noise was ...?..i have the same thing going on with
An 08 mini s..
An 08 mini s..
Again, this is NOT another timing chain tensioner thread, I know all about that issue, have had the issue, heard the rattle by the timing chain, and had it replaced under TSB/warranty, and has been quiet ever since.
I noticed this new sound a week ago, sounds just like the cold start rattle from the TC tensioner, but its clear when you put your ear up to it that its coming from the cylinder section of the engine, not at the passenger side end where you normally hear the TC. Its between cylinder 2/3, so its one of the two. I'll take a stethiscope to it at some point and find out just which one it is. But anyhow, its a very clear and distinct rattle/knock sound, occuring consistently with the idling, 800 RPMs or so?
At first I thought the engine was low on oil since it started consuming a quart in 1.5ish-2k miles (wasn't looking too closely at this point), but I had checked and it was on the closer to full line side. Regardless I was due for an oil chance so yesterday I changed the oil in hoping it'd remedy the issue. Topped it off to the full line on the dipstick, fired her up, same issue. My thoughts initially were that it was the lifters, and possibly the cam follower? But being full of oil made me doubt the lifters, though its still possible.
The two times I inspected this, (yesterday and last week), the engine was semi cold (sat for a few hours after being at operating temps), though, ambient lately has been 35-50*F (new england). Today, I drove 100 miles for work and when I got there I got out and listened, and all was quiet, no knocking. So once the oil is warmed up, its lubricating properly and not causing noises. At least so I think its the oil.
Has anyone had issues with the lifters or cam follower, or had these symptoms and not have it be the timing chain tensioner?
With the consumption of oil and a tiny bit of coolant (but coolant has been doing this since new and dealer said normal), I thought maybe my piston ring/skirt was going. I'm at 62k now so out of warranty.
Ideas would be great, thanks.
I noticed this new sound a week ago, sounds just like the cold start rattle from the TC tensioner, but its clear when you put your ear up to it that its coming from the cylinder section of the engine, not at the passenger side end where you normally hear the TC. Its between cylinder 2/3, so its one of the two. I'll take a stethiscope to it at some point and find out just which one it is. But anyhow, its a very clear and distinct rattle/knock sound, occuring consistently with the idling, 800 RPMs or so?
At first I thought the engine was low on oil since it started consuming a quart in 1.5ish-2k miles (wasn't looking too closely at this point), but I had checked and it was on the closer to full line side. Regardless I was due for an oil chance so yesterday I changed the oil in hoping it'd remedy the issue. Topped it off to the full line on the dipstick, fired her up, same issue. My thoughts initially were that it was the lifters, and possibly the cam follower? But being full of oil made me doubt the lifters, though its still possible.
The two times I inspected this, (yesterday and last week), the engine was semi cold (sat for a few hours after being at operating temps), though, ambient lately has been 35-50*F (new england). Today, I drove 100 miles for work and when I got there I got out and listened, and all was quiet, no knocking. So once the oil is warmed up, its lubricating properly and not causing noises. At least so I think its the oil.
Has anyone had issues with the lifters or cam follower, or had these symptoms and not have it be the timing chain tensioner?
With the consumption of oil and a tiny bit of coolant (but coolant has been doing this since new and dealer said normal), I thought maybe my piston ring/skirt was going. I'm at 62k now so out of warranty.
Ideas would be great, thanks.
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