Awhile ago I started a thread about a replacement alternator not matching the one that was in my car. (https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...h-mystery.html) It never got solved and there seemed to be a number of people stumped by this same thing. Now I have more info and more pointed questions; maybe this could help someone to better answer this. Just seems like starting anew is the way to go.
Long/Short: The alternator that came of out my 2004 base mini was a 14V / 50-110A (7559223). The replacement I got from ebay is a 12V / 68-120A (every local part store offered this same one as well). On this new one the bolts were longer and the harness clip was a little different but the pulley lined up perfectly with the belt/engine.
I decided not to put the new one in after my original post because I wasn't sure if it would mess with my electrical system. but recently I had some repairs that gave easy access to the alternator so i just did it. I found longer bolts and had to Dremel the electric connector but it fit fine.
All was fine for two weeks (roughly 250 miles of driving) and then two days ago the battery light would turn on and off. Btw my battery is only 6 months old. The Battery Light would come on when accelerating or revving the engine and if I was able to let off the gas long enough it would go off after a few moments. The next day (yesterday) the power steering pump went out and some dash lights were lit but I was still able to drive home albeit the corners took some effort.
After shutting it off i restarted to drive it onto some ramps and the pump was working but I don't trust it to drive. I have to assume it will go out again.
I've been researching the compatibility with each of these alternators and it seems that the one that came out of my 2004 Mini is what you'd find in 2006-2008 models. While the second, lower voltage one, is more compatible with most models.
So a couple questions.
Can anyone definitive say whether or not the second alternator is bad for my car?
And Is this what might have fried my PSP?
I'm going to the junk yard today to pull a PSP. Scoped it out a decent looking candidate yesterday, they were about to close so I couldn't snag it.
I'm afraid of going through all this work just to fry another one...
plus i'm driving halfway across the country in 2 weeks and obviously want this all smoothed out with enough time to test.
PS - i've run the VIN and checked the door plates. My car is definitely a 2004 base model and there has never been an engine swap. I know the original owner.
I read your other thread on this topic and thought I'd share my experience for a point of data:
I replaced my alternator last summer for no reason other than I was diagnosing a noise in the engine compartment, someone suggested the alternator might be the source, so I replaced it as a long shot (was not the source of my noise) and for the simple reason that it was the original alternator my car came with in 2003. I figured it wouldn't hurt to throw a new one in.
I bought it from FCP Euro - I have no idea the voltage specs on it because it doesn't say on their website and I didn't look before I put it on. All I can say is that it fit perfectly and is working perfectly.
Just to add another piece of information - I recently installed a used engine in my 2003 R53. The engine I installed came out of a 2006 R52. There was no fitment issues, belt alignment issues or connector fitment issues.
I'm going to bet that your PS pump is fine.
The pump receives a wake-up signal from the alternator so that it never draws current directly from the battery. If the alternator isn't putting out the correct voltage then the pump will not engage.
Thank you all for the input and links.
There was a wealth of into in those links (thank you @ECSTunig !) for anyone trying to wrap their head around this stupidity
Glad to see i'm not the only one massively confused by this...
And just to tie a bow on this for folks in the future.
I replaced the PS Pump and @mrbean is no doubt correct that the old was fine but I did it before seeing all the above links and was on a tear to get my daily driver back.
Anyways after changing the pump the battery light was coming on again so out of (unfounded) fear that it would destroy the new pump i swapped back in the old 110a/12v alternator that came out of it and there was no more battery light. So the recommended 14v/120a alternator definitively DOES NOT WORK on a 2004 base model as all the parts catalogues seem to think it will.
The Manufactures part number for the one that works is AL0840N. There's a few on ebay for around $150 and all the typical parts stores have them as well.
Thanks again for all the feedback. Really love this forum.
