After seeing the process involved w/replacing these, has anyone considered filling them w/polyurethane instead? This is typically done as a budget measure to stiffen up engine mounts for performance applications. Maybe there's just no access to get to the voids but was wondering if anyone's considered it. If I'm preaching to the choir, please direct me on thread of how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fpm-EzlRvks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_0BYvTkZ0o

 

it can be done though the material that guys uses is incorrect. You need a higher durometer material as that stuff is extremely rubbery and soft.
The material you would need is a liquid type urethane and a stronger poly bonding material.
I believe window weld is a little higher that’s that roof seal crap, but it is still only around 50.
liquid urethane will cost about as much as poly mounts when all is said and done.

 

It's not so much the cost as the man hours involved. Yes, I had seen window polyurethane used (3M, 30$), this is just a vid of the process. Durometers are cheap so one could measure the shore hardness of a cured roofing/window polyurethane sample I suppose. Most polyurethanes I've come across are still harder than bushing rubber tbh. The idea's to get close to OEM and/or slightly higher stiffness to avoid replacement more than anything.

The only pitfall I can see is getting the indexing of the bushing just right. It looks to me like the bushing's dead center and not offset. If the bushing's badly damaged, it may prove challenging floating the sleeve inside just right. Might need to use a jack or c-clamps.

edit:
Looks like it's all online and the roofing stuff isn't as hard as bushing rubber while the 3M window stuff may be

 

Get ready for noise and vibration.

 

The old bushings are easy enough to remove, just need the correct tool. Not sure how good the bearing is on this one... but something like this.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...xoCIc0QAvD_BwE

I have not used this method, but I have seen this method used and works slick as grease.

 

Just make sure to buy a decent one and lube the bearing - the cheaper ones tend to bust the bearing nut right out. I suppose you only really need it for 2 removals though. When I do mine, I may buy the cheap one on amazon just to report back to the community whether the 40 dollar one that amazon has will hold together for 2 removal or not without snapping.

 

it's the getting the bushing out that's the struggle....I'd just buy the whole carrier. I've done frame bushings before, Not worth rescuing the metal piece. Maybe I wasn't clear as it was implied. You'd do this while the bushing's installed, filling in the bushing cavities accessible from under the vehicle.

would be no worse than Polyurethane bushings honestly. Would probably be better than a busted one clunking around.

 

I’ve replaced bushing while the brackets are bolted in place….. not too bad, I basically cut out the old sleeve with a small sawzall, then used a threaded bearing price type tool to press in the poly bushings.

I have also dropped the entire subframe and replaced the bushings after removing the carriers using a 12 ton press.
dropping the subframe is quite easy. I was a bit nervous at first but it was honestly the best thing I could’ve done. I replaced so many other things while it was off


as far as vibration, it won’t be any worse than straight poly bushings. And if you are really concerned you can put straws in a row to leave little air gaps that will allow some give
in the poly but I don’t think it’s worth it