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So I started diagnosing the issues on my new project 06' cooper S automatic. I bought it sight unseen with a rough running engine and when driving " the car would get louder but not go faster" which I assumed was a slipping Trans.
so I get the engine up and running perfect with my spare parts I had and inpa. Then I get to the transmission.
when I checked with inpa ,surprisingly there were NO Transmission codes present or lights illuminated on the dash. So I then go take it for a test drive once I let it fully cool down a few hours and it shifts just fine BUT the second the fluid began to warm up about 1mile away and a few stops it began to slip. It will only get up to 30mph and it begins to slip , it will literally come out of gear and once I slow down it find a lower gear and the process resumes.
p.o said she had the transmission flushed ( I HATE when people do that to high mile trans) and that's when it would no longer accelerate correctly and got the symptoms it has. She had it flushed because it was high miles and was having occasional harsh shifts..
what exactly should I do or look for to confirm that it has a wonky valvebody ?
I'd check the fluid but it's been recently flushed so I don't think that's going to tell me much but if I'm wrong lmk and I will check it..
Not sure if I would trust that the transmission was flushed... maybe the fluid was changed, but I haven't really heard of these being flushed as it's hard enough to find someone who doesn't tell you it has lifetime fluid and don't really even want to change the fluid. There's a specific process to filling these transmissions and it's very possible the fluid level is not correct after the work the previous owner had done. The level is temperature dependent because the fluid expands with temp and this could be the reason your trans is having issues after warming up.
I would drain the fluid to check the condition of it and do a refill using the proper procedure with regards to fluid temp. A drain without dropping the pan will only get about 75% of the fluid out so it usually takes at least 3 drains and refills to get most of it changed. Dropping the pan doesn't increase this too much as a lot of fluid is still stuck in the torque converter. Knowing this, even if the previous owner had the fluid changed, did the shop change it multiple times and get the fluid level correct the last time? Because the fluid level relies on overflowing the stand pipe, too low of temp and the trans will be overfilled, too high will result in an under filled transmission.
If it were my car I would drop the pan for the first drain and change the strainer/filter and gasket, then just use the drain plug for the other drain/refills. Remember to remove the standpipe when draining the fluid, make sure the fluid in the trans is in the required temp range when setting the level, and take a short drive between each change to mix up the fluid. Don't over tighten the standpipe as it's just plastic.
Because of the previous work, you might be able to just set the fluid level with the proper fluid temp, but I would do at least one change. Also, notice how many times fluid temp was mentioned? Yes, it's that important in getting the correct amount of fluid into these autos.
Also, make sure to use JWS3309 spec'd fluid. Aisin is owned by Toyota so using JWS3309 fluid from a Toyota dealer at around 40% of the cost of the MINI fluid is probably fine.
Not sure if I would trust that the transmission was flushed... maybe the fluid was changed, but I haven't really heard of these being flushed as it's hard enough to find someone who doesn't tell you it has lifetime fluid and don't really even want to change the fluid. There's a specific process to filling these transmissions and it's very possible the fluid level is not correct after the work the previous owner had done. The level is temperature dependent because the fluid expands with temp and this could be the reason your trans is having issues after warming up.
I would drain the fluid to check the condition of it and do a refill using the proper procedure with regards to fluid temp. A drain without dropping the pan will only get about 75% of the fluid out so it usually takes at least 3 drains and refills to get most of it changed. Dropping the pan doesn't increase this too much as a lot of fluid is still stuck in the torque converter. Knowing this, even if the previous owner had the fluid changed, did the shop change it multiple times and get the fluid level correct the last time? Because the fluid level relies on overflowing the stand pipe, too low of temp and the trans will be overfilled, too high will result in an under filled transmission.
If it were my car I would drop the pan for the first drain and change the strainer/filter and gasket, then just use the drain plug for the other drain/refills. Remember to remove the standpipe when draining the fluid, make sure the fluid in the trans is in the required temp range when setting the level, and take a short drive between each change to mix up the fluid. Don't over tighten the standpipe as it's just plastic.
Because of the previous work, you might be able to just set the fluid level with the proper fluid temp, but I would do at least one change. Also, notice how many times fluid temp was mentioned? Yes, it's that important in getting the correct amount of fluid into these autos.
Also, make sure to use JWS3309 spec'd fluid. Aisin is owned by Toyota so using JWS3309 fluid from a Toyota dealer at around 40% of the cost of the MINI fluid is probably fine.
She had it serviced at a bmw service center . So I'm guessing when she said flush it was just a fluid change and fill. She was having slipping issues prior, once the new fluid went in it got way worse. I seen this happen 3x to freinds PERSONALLY who didn't listen. Had cars in excess of 75k miles and I warned them when they have it changed only do a 50/50 fluid change and new filter..New fluid is too clean you could say and once the worn clutch pack material is gone from the fluid it actually causes it to blow past solenoid seals or causes excess slippage of the clutchpacks and bye-bye trans..
I guess I don't have too much to loose by 2x checking that the fluid is correct amount but I highly highly doubt that's the issue.
the chic I got the car was by no means just trying to make a sale , she was 100% honest with me and already had a new car and just wanted this car out of her way.
lol others trash is always treasures for me it seems.
I WAS WRONG , INPA READ A P0700 trans solenoid something or nother so I'm really hoping it's the valvebody.
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Jan 4, 2022 at 05:19 PM.
The article linked above says to check the dipstick to see if the fluid level is correct, which a MINI doesn’t have, and also doesn’t mention anything about the fluid temp. The attached 38 minute video is pretty good, but there are a couple of things about it. First it says to make sure you can get to and loosen the fill plug which is a very good idea when draining anything, but it takes forever to fill the trans through the top plug. Most fill by pumping back through the drain tube, and he even ends up doing this at the end of the video when he gets frustrated trying to fill from the top. He also mentions temp and hooking up a scan tool, but never says what the temp is, and then just says operating temp. You can also see in the video how the drain hole is elevated on a ridge in the drain pan and keeps a good amount of fluid from draining without removing the pan.
AFAIK, the trans/fluid temp is not available on a 1st gen. It’s available on a 2nd gen and later using a scan tool or by accessing the diagnostics on the tach display, but not on the 1st gen. The specific temp range for setting the fluid level is 95-113F and has to be measured old school with a thermometer, or maybe with a laser type temp gun. Some people say to measure what came out and add the same back, but that would only work if the fluid level was correct to begin with. To refill from the bottom, you can use an adapter like this with a fluid pump:
Am I correct in thinking this is the valvebody I need ? Or if not can someone help me locate it or the correct part #
I keep seeing though they're all saying the car should be a 6spd blablabla.. IT ONLY IS A 5SPD . In sport mode gear selecting it only goes upto 5th gear... soooooo is there a 6spd and a 5spd version of these Trans?????? Ok I just read that in SD mode it will ONLY go upto 5th , is this true ? If so in leaning towards that'd the valvebody
That looks like the correct valve body but I'm not 100% sure I believe the Volkswagen ones are the same. But I will verify it defently is a 6 speed unit and like you mentioned in sport mode it locks out the 6th gear making it a 5 speed.
That looks like the correct valve body but I'm not 100% sure I believe the Volkswagen ones are the same. But I will verify it defiantly is a 6 speed unit and like you mentioned in sport mode it locks out the 6th gear making it a 5 speed.
worse comes to worse I will just have to get the old valvebody out for comparison then if I have to..though I hate to just have it sitting taking up my garage space in meantime, that's what I'm trying to avoid as I'm working on 2x coopers rite now..
Am I correct in thinking this is the valvebody I need ? Or if not can someone help me locate it or the correct part #
I keep seeing though they're all saying the car should be a 6spd blablabla.. IT ONLY IS A 5SPD . In sport mode gear selecting it only goes upto 5th gear... soooooo is there a 6spd and a 5spd version of these Trans?????? Ok I just read that in SD mode it will ONLY go upto 5th , is this true ? If so in leaning towards that'd the valvebody
That looks like the correct valve body but I'm not 100% sure I believe the Volkswagen ones are the same. But I will verify it defently is a 6 speed unit and like you mentioned in sport mode it locks out the 6th gear making it a 5 speed.
It sounds like your trans or TCU is messed up if you can’t manually shift into 6th. Where did you read it only goes to 5th in sport mode?
I drive my ‘05 auto in sport mode, manually shifting 99% of the time, and I’m usually in 6th gear on the freeway, with M6 showing in the speedo display. If you don’t manually shift in sport mode the display just shows SD for every forward gear. Once you manually shift in sport mode the trans locks into “manual” mode and the display stays in M(X) until the shift lever is taken out of sport and put back in. Once shifted manually, the trans will only shift automatically when approaching redline or coming to a stop. To get it back to full sport auto you have to shift the lever out and back into sport mode. If you manually shift when in regular mode it will only hold the gear while accelerating, or maybe while using engine braking down hill. Once the load is off the engine/trans, it reverts back to full auto mode.
What it does do, in both regular and sport mode, is only shift down to 2nd when coming to a complete stop. Maybe that’s what the people meant by it only being a 5 speed since it only normally uses 5 gears unless you manually shift it to 1st every time.
It sounds like your trans or TCU is messed up if you can’t manually shift into 6th. Where did you read it only goes to 5th in sport mode?
I drive my ‘05 auto in sport mode, manually shifting 99% of the time, and I’m usually in 6th gear on the freeway, with M6 showing in the speedo display. If you don’t manually shift in sport mode the display just shows SD for every forward gear. Once you manually shift in sport mode the trans locks into “manual” mode and the display stays in M(X) until the shift lever is taken out of sport and put back in. Once shifted manually, the trans will only shift automatically when approaching redline or coming to a stop. To get it back to full sport auto you have to shift the lever out and back into sport mode. If you manually shift when in regular mode it will only hold the gear while accelerating, or maybe while using engine braking down hill. Once the load is off the engine/trans, it reverts back to full auto mode.
What it does do, in both regular and sport mode, is only shift down to 2nd when coming to a complete stop. Maybe that’s what the people meant by it only being a 5 speed since it only normally uses 5 gears unless you manually shift it to 1st every time.
My car is in winter storage so I can't recall exactly but when your in SD the car doesn't shift into 6 automatically but of course you can manually shift it into gear. If I recall correctly it starts in 1st every time.
Since the shift points are a lot higher, around 4-4500 rpm, it might not shift to 6th in sport full auto/SD mode at legal speeds. Once a gear is pulled and the car goes into “full manual” sport mode, the trans will only automatically upshift around 6,000 rpm to keep the engine and trans from damage. I’m still wondering why they made the trans start in 2nd from a stop in both sport and regular modes when starting in 1st would be “sportier” for sport mode.
There’s an aftermarket module that’s supposed to “improve shift times and bypass the torque limiter”, but it’s like $5-600 with no refunds because it says it locks to your VIN at install. It also says it uploads new maps to the engine ECU and gearbox TCU, but doesn’t affect any existing ECU tunes and is not dealer traceable . I can’t find enough posts/reviews to confirm it’s claims vs being a placebo effect, or temp gains from possibly resetting the TCU adaptations so I don’t want to try it with the no refund policy.
I wonder if Adrian can tune the TCU to start in 1st or decrease the shift times.
Since the shift points are a lot higher, around 4-4500 rpm, it might not shift to 6th in sport full auto/SD mode at legal speeds. Once a gear is pulled and the car goes into “full manual” sport mode, the trans will only automatically upshift around 6,000 rpm to keep the engine and trans from damage. I’m still wondering why they made the trans start in 2nd from a stop in both sport and regular modes when starting in 1st would be “sportier” for sport mode.
There’s an aftermarket module that’s supposed to “improve shift times and bypass the torque limiter”, but it’s like $5-600 with no refunds because it says it locks to your VIN at install. It also says it uploads new maps to the engine ECU and gearbox TCU, but doesn’t affect any existing ECU tunes and is not dealer traceable . I can’t find enough posts/reviews to confirm it’s claims vs being a placebo effect, or temp gains from possibly resetting the TCU adaptations so I don’t want to try it with the no refund policy.
I wonder if Adrian can tune the TCU to start in 1st or decrease the shift times.
I guarantee adriancl could adjust stuff like shift pressure and stuff to make it shift better.. I used to buy superchips handheld tuner for my ford 4.6 tBirds I played with and it would allow me to adjust Trans pressure for firmer shifts and either lengthen or shorten each individual gear. Didn't do much for adding power to the engine but it did make the car faster by adjusting the trans and I always liked that.
but this car will just be a flipper so no tune , no intake and no over boosting it.. lol unless I decide to keep it but idk what I'd do with 3x r53's lol
The drain / fill fitting is a way to see if fluid is filled. It goes up, and the idea is to fill it until it flows out due to the level rising up past the tube level. Not a classic dipstick, but a measurement tool.
Well I found a good rebuilt valvebody, they're pretty expensive but I spoke with the ebay seller and he actually gave me 90$ discount on it . So I got it cheaper than used ones go for so wish me luck in this. Gowd how nice that'd be if this is all the trans needs. Then I will do the rest few things and sell it.
I seen the correct fluid but it's 3-4x the price so what alternatives are there?
would type T-iv or dexron VI also be the sane stuff just under different manufacturer ? This is all I can seem to find in stock
Can I run the stuff below ???
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Jan 10, 2022 at 03:12 AM.
I seen the correct fluid but it's 3-4x the price so what alternatives are there?
would type T-iv or dexron VI also be the sane stuff just under different manufacturer ? This is all I can seem to find in stock
Can I run the stuff below ???
T-IV is the correct fluid it's the same as 3309. I don't think dexron is correct I doubt it meats the spec. I used aisin fluid from rockauto.
Reason I been asking about alternative fluid options is I'm trying to use my Amazon gift card , I found a filter and gasket kit for 15$ only so just trying to find 3-4qt of some cheap fluid and keep it under to around 50$..
Liiiiiiiike this fluid says it's a substitute for typle ti-v so it should be good enough rite ? I just don't wanna go spending alot on something that may not even actually fix the car...plus it's a highmile car as it is so I have a limited budget to put into the car befor trying to sell it.. so what about this vavoline or....
Also what about this "performance " fluid for bmw style transmissions ???
Another question, lol sorry..I know NOTHING about this Trans and it's hard finding the info I need unfortunately so you guys are a great help...
Would one of these adapters work to fill the trans with after the new valvebody ..
Another question, lol sorry..I know NOTHING about this Trans and it's hard finding the info I need unfortunately so you guys are a great help...
Would one of these adapters work to fill the trans with after the new valvebody ..
You don't need any adapters just a long skinny funnel or a hose and funnel. There is a fill bolt on the top of the trans you remove no adapters needed.
You don't need any adapters just a long skinny funnel or a hose and funnel. There is a fill bolt on the top of the trans you remove no adapters needed.
ok . I was just wondering because I read it fills stupid slow from the top and it's very very hard to get at that hole too. I guess it's supposed to feed stupid slow because there's a specific tool that will then twist into that top hole abd then fully open it for fluid to enter.. if I can spend 10$ only to save a bunch of crap itle be worth it..plus then it says I just pump it in and it will drain out what ever excess is in so it will get yo the perfect level much easier . Is this correct ?
. I can’t find enough posts/reviews to confirm it’s claims vs being a placebo effect, or temp gains from possibly resetting the TCU adaptations so I don’t want to try it with the no refund policy.
