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I'm looking at replacing my front shocks. I currently have oem shocks installed w/lowering springs. Anyone have or familiar with BILSTEIN TOURING B4 shocks?
I am happy with the ride height with these lowering springs but need to be sure the springs will fit/work with the factory specs for new shocks.
I'm really tight on budget (can't really afford new springs, Koni, HR or other topshelf $$ right now) - Recommendations are always welcome.
Thanks.
I've found Bilstein B4 shocks to be too soft, even with factory springs. With lowering springs it will be even worse and I don't think you'll be happy with the results.
I would recommend saving up for something that will be better suited for your springs (B6 or koni adjustables)
B4's are NOT recommended for use with lowering springs.
I personally recommend the B4s for use with stock springs. Combined with other simple mods (RSB, IE camber plates, poly bushings), they provide a fantastically sporty ride.
Koni Special Active shocks seem to be very popular for Minis but as with the B4s, only recommended with stock springs. That's what I plan to install next summer. I mention them in case you are on the fence about whether to stay with lowering springs.
Koni Special Active shocks seem to be very popular for Minis but as with the B4s, only recommended with stock springs. That's what I plan to install next summer. I mention them in case you are on the fence about whether to stay with lowering springs.
I don't think I've ever heard a bad thing about the Special Actives. I've never experienced them myself though.
As an FYI, lowering springs will wipe out stock and most stock replacement shocks really quick, that's why the Koni "Yellows" adjustable are so popular with the lowered crowd on a budget.
Received an email alert from the salvage yard that 2 Mini's ('04 & '05 R50's) hit the lot yesterday.
Despite the crappy weather; I headed out anyway (before they were cannibalized).
To my surprise - The '04 had super clean Bilstein B6's w/green lowering(?) springs...
...tempted.
That is pretty tempting (or it would be if I were in the market for dampers). You're making me want to hit pull-a-part again... Not that I need anything for my R50 though.
Same here.I really never need anything. I just really enjoy seeing things taken apart. Before I start a project on my own car. Discovery and surprise scores are always a plus.
"Salvage yards are like a box of chocolate...".
Received an email alert from the salvage yard that 2 Mini's ('04 & '05 R50's) hit the lot yesterday.
Despite the crappy weather; I headed out anyway (before they were cannibalized).
To my surprise - The '04 had super clean Bilstein B6's w/green lowering(?) springs...
...tempted.
Short version:
Has anyone done the "Strut Tower Sandwich" - Both using Top plates + under plates?
Long version:
I posted a question about NEW Strut rebound rate in the "wheels & brake forum". I didn't get any confirmed responses. Last week, I happened upon a local seller w/ 2 new, in-box Front Bilstein B6's ($400/pair). I held off (saving for Koni Yellows maybe?). Those brand new B6's had drastically different rebound rates. I decided to hit the salvage yard and yank the B6's as [quoted] above. Just to compare. Not surprised -They were gone.
Before leaving, I looked at an '05 and noticed it had brand new strut plates and fairly new stock struts. I noticed the bearing studs were new and longer than stock. Curious; I pulled the struts (OEM), just to compare the rebound rates on a broken in set. To my surprise; what appears to be a Cravenspeed "Underators", fell out from under the tower recess'.
Went home w/the pair + (U)Indurators = $50.
I checked the compression on the salvaged pair and - they compressed firmly and rebounded at the same rate = 8 seconds. Although I don't plan to install the (OEM) salvage yard struts. It's yet another good score for my collection of good backups.
So what do you think about the "sandwich" question?
I feel like I’m always replying to your questions. I swear I’m not just following you around the forum…
Logically I like the idea of sandwiching the tower the best, but I don’t know how good my logic is. I should probably ask one of my ME friends. My towers had some mild mushrooming, and I was on the lightest stock wheels, tallest sidewalls, and softest stock suspension. That makes me believe that the towers were really under-engineered. My camber plates serve as the bottom of the sandwich, so they won’t bend easily like the stock mount.
^^^ Agreed, I read all 1st Gen "New Posts", with all contributors to this topic often replying. Likewise, me too!
Pics I took while swapping front coils on Koni Yellows show thickness of the Helix adjustable camber plates. Too few total miles on my R53 for tower mushrooming, however seems unlikely with such reinforcement.
I feel like I’m always replying to your questions. I swear I’m not just following you around the forum…
Hahahaha, - It's true!...I post a lot, (questions), here on NAM... more than most may want to tolerate. Although I do try and search before posting; You, (as well as others), have been extremely considerate in giving me valuable insight and not making me feel like a total annoyance or complete idiot. Please continue "stalking".
Originally Posted by deepgrey
Logically I like the idea of sandwiching the tower the best, but I don’t know how good my logic is.
I concur with your logic. It makes sense to me that there are 2 parallel forces that are being exerted on the structure. My head thinks plates underneath may work better at taking the brunt forces...(?)
Originally Posted by deepgrey
That makes me believe that the towers were really under-engineered. My camber plates serve as the bottom of the sandwich, so they won’t bend easily like the stock mount.
I thought about camber plates. So far the current lowering springs (1" lower than stock) I have installed, don't seem to be imposing any real (visual) negative camber. I guess I'm just not there yet with adding camber plates.
I have the M7 plates and the salvage strut bearing mounts + Indurators and will do a test fit next weekend. It looks like the CS Indurators are slightly over 1/8" thick. I think the salvage strut mount studs are long enough for a test "sandwich". I also bought/have brand new (OEM) strut mount/bearing plates but oddly - the studs seem to be a bit shorter.
Belaboring my post....
Still comparing my options on purchasing front struts. ' Decided Koni deserve a closer look.
Can anyone shed some clarity as to what the differences between these two Koni adjustable are? The only thing that strikes me is build = painted vs chrome spring seat.
I see the notation "Representative Image - Actual Product May Vary" in the second image. Is there really a difference? The price is negligible. Which one is correct?
Yeah - I concur. The pinch bolt tab on the second image was the dead giveaway for me. Going back to MCS4FUN image - Should have made sense to me before posting.
Thanks!
Short version:
Has anyone done the "Strut Tower Sandwich" - Both using Top plates + under plates?
Long version:
I posted a question about NEW Strut rebound rate in the "wheels & brake forum". I didn't get any confirmed responses. Last week, I happened upon a local seller w/ 2 new, in-box Front Bilstein B6's ($400/pair). I held off (saving for Koni Yellows maybe?). Those brand new B6's had drastically different rebound rates. I decided to hit the salvage yard and yank the B6's as [quoted] above. Just to compare. Not surprised -They were gone.
Before leaving, I looked at an '05 and noticed it had brand new strut plates and fairly new stock struts. I noticed the bearing studs were new and longer than stock. Curious; I pulled the struts (OEM), just to compare the rebound rates on a broken in set. To my surprise; what appears to be a Cravenspeed "Underators", fell out from under the tower recess'.
Went home w/the pair + (U)Indurators = $50.
I checked the compression on the salvaged pair and - they compressed firmly and rebounded at the same rate = 8 seconds. Although I don't plan to install the (OEM) salvage yard struts. It's yet another good score for my collection of good backups.
So what do you think about the "sandwich" question?
I have the sandwich arrangement and it's working fine. I don't recall which plates I'm using.
I'm not sure if you've already bought a shock/strut set, but you shouldn't be putting lowering springs on B4 or B6's. If you need to save $ for a bit longer to get the right thing, do that. There's no value in half-assing it just so you can save $200 and swap the parts a month earlier.
.
