yeah, that's what I figured you were saying. Honestly I don't think you're wrong, after using that paint I think you're right, but I had time and really wanted them to look good. I'm happy with the result, but did have some paint come off near the bleed nipple where some brake fluid sat on it for a while. The good thing about G2 is they have a lifetime warranty on their paint, So I think they'll send me some more for free to fix it.

The pads and discs are finally getting broken in, and I'm starting to really like them, can't wait for warmer weather and track days!

 

Those are nice but people like me LOVE our 15in rims so until I commit on new rim setup I gotta get the best out of the stockers...
cooling ducts come soon too

 

Not an option at all. 17" minimum. This what's on my car; & I tell people, I don't have brakes, I have an anchor! My car doesn't slow down, it stops!...on a dime!...& gives you nine cents change!

Honestly, I don't know how you guys are racing on those little stock brakes. I would think after 9 or 10 good hard slow downs you'd be completely faded.

The nicest part about the JCW GP brakes is they bolt right up! It's one of the easiest mods you'll ever do.

 

What pad compound are you guys running?

 

carbon ceramic for me...have not yet tested mine other than a few miles yet either OR my coilovers and other suspension mods THOUGH I GET TO TUESDAY after the alignment !
but the few miles after breakin they felt wayyy better than my stockers but my stock ones WERE brembo rotors and pads and imo they SUUUUUUUUUCKED. Felt like they were too hard of a compound or were glazed over though they weren't glazed and had like 75% life left.. I sold them and guy who bought them said even those were better than his oem so I can't imagine how much stock/oem must suck.

 

How does that work on the street? A lot of times a good race compound has really low µ (coefficient of friction) until they get good & hot.

 

If you swapped in some brembo blanks, that would be a much better setup. Your cross-drilled rotors are a worse performing rotor than a solid rotor.

For future viewers, for the love of god, don't do what minimanadam did, his example is lazy and half-assed.
The retaining clips weren't even removed and were painted over. He is a muppet who's advice shouldn't be followed.

 

Umm...Where do I start? You are incorrect on so many levels. I'm not even going to try to school you because:
a) It would just turn into a big argument, & I have not the time nor the inclination to deal with such.
and,
b) I get the impression (from your post & what I inferred from your screen-name) that you wouldn't listen anyway.

I usually don't like to pull my trump card on forums, but in the interest of nipping this in the bud, I have a Masters degree in Mechanical Engineering (& one in Electrical Engineering as well). I know more about thermodynamics than any 10 people you will run into. So unless you have a PhD in thermodynamics, you have no place trying to correct me.

I noticed you deleted most of your original post. Serendipitously, it is immortalized in my quote.

Also, I don't know MiniManAdam — or for that matter, anyone else on this thread — but unless he's your bestie, & you're just razzing him, talking smack about people on the internet is considered bad form.

 

You and I both know that waving a couple of masters degrees around doesn’t mean anything in an argument unless you can back it up with actual knowledge.

 

​​​​​​I'm certainly open to you disproving decades of research, experience, and race results by amateur racers to professional racers, as well as engineers in various forms of racing, that your ebay cross-drilled rotors are better at brake fade resistance than solid rotors, degree or not withstanding.

But, you're not here to have a discussion, you're here to brag. Brag about how much better your brakes are over the OPs.
How much better you think you are because of your degree.

But, you seem to have more questions than answers in this thread.

So, you can play the **** measuring game where you get to brag about your 13" **** that's never been used or understand there are likely some **** stars here who have the experiences/results/careers to help guide you thru your first experience.

Oh the irony. You won't see it, like how you can't see past your own ego.

"How dare he bring up thermal dynamics blah blah, doesn't he know who I am!!"

Adorably, you have no clue of my background or education, but just assumed yours is simply "better".


But, my original point is this:
You bragging about your brakes being so much better, is 100% pointless in this topic about painting brakes. We get it, you have something to prove due to insecurity issues.

My criticism of minimanadam's laughable attempt at painting his calipers while doing as little as possible to make it look good, is very much on topic.

 

Knock it off guys. This petty bickering is what gets a thread truncated. There is useful information on this and other related threads that future enthusiasts may find useful. T'would be a shame for this one to disappear. If you really want to go at it, PM each other and the best man win.

 

Amen to that!

 

These fronts you have are not from a GP. They are R56 JCW 4 piston fronts. And I agree they are fantastic. They are actually much better than what came on the R53 GP (2 pistons)
R56 GP brakes are even better! They are 6 piston fronts and if you think your Mini ‘stops’ right now, imagine how quick it would come to a standstill with an R56 GP master cylinder and the 6 piston calipers!

 

This is news to me. I've never seen this 6-piston caliper you speak of — not saying it doesn't exist, I've just never seen it. This is the part number for my brake kit: 34 11 0 432 802 (check it out at realoem dot com). When I bought it, I was told by the parts department it was for the JCW GP, now you're saying there's something even better! What is the disk diameter of said caliper? Do you have any pictures?

My car originally came with real JCW 295mm front brakes (not the Gen 2 brakes which have a different hose attachment) but the actual JCW Gen 1 caliper (same brake hose as stock Gen 1 brakes). That's the easiest way to tell the difference between real Gen 1 JCW caliper, & the "poor man's JCW conversion" (Gen 2 caliper). BTW, the disk is the same for Gen 1 JCW & Gen 2 standard. And as far I can tell, there is no difference in performance between the two (given the same pad compound). On that note, there is a difference in performance between the 280mm & 295mm disks.

I will tell you that there is a marked increase in braking power, along with shorter stopping distance with my system (I measured it). I should note that I'm just using an auto parts store brand premium ceramic pad; nothing fancy. When these wear out, I plan on installing EBC Blue pads.

If someone wants to do a side-by-side comparison, please PM me; I love gathering empirical data! I'm in So Cal.

 

The Gen 1 GP should have single piston brakes, and the easiest way to tell them from Poor Mans R56 caliper/assembly are they have a thick, curved bar which follows the shape of the hub, where the R56 have a thin straight bar. This can be seen through the spokes of the wheel.

The GP2 brakes used the same traditional shaped Brembo caliper as a BMW 1M, but in red with JCW logos, where the 2nd Gen JCW upgrade has a MINI "wings" inspired caliper.

 

This thread should be truncated to remove where Cut began bragging about his brakes in a thread about painting calipers. His information is misleading and factually inaccurate -- thus more detrimental than helpful.

Cut's misunderstanding of how brakes work, and him trying to push that misunderstanding out as facts, is what causes myths to perpetuate.

Without derailing this thread even further... this following thread is where all of the braking info is located:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rs-rotors.html

Curiously, no posts from Cut with his vast racing experience and career in brake engineering and development.

 

Took some pics not too long ago on my brake overhaul. 294mm Brembo discs + pads, single piston caliper.

 

Does everyone paint their calipers red? I have a hyper blue Mini with White top and mirrors. I also have black scoop and headlight rings. Considering painting them blue to match the car.

 

I painted my Volvo S80 calipers yellow

 

Those look nice! Did you pain them? or were they already painted?

 

you're not wrong, I come from karting and a formula ford background so when I first drove my MINI on a track, I killed the brakes in 2 laps. I've gotten better at managing them, but I can't brake like I would in a racecar. My brake evolution has been pads, fluid, ducting, and now upgraded calipers, discs, and lines. I'm hoping that some hawk DTC-60's will fight the fade when combined with the other upgrades. Only one way to find out.

 

juuuuust fine..its not like you loose alot of braking ability when they aren't at full temp. Imo they still bite better in any condition vs my brombos and those were a semi metallic pad.. literally by the time your down the road you can feel them bite better buuuuut before then , nooooothing imo to fret or worry over. Id be more concerned with random balljoints I haven't replaced before tge pads being cool even crosses my mind. I'd that tells you how little it effects them.