In the middle of a tensioner/pulley/belt/idler swap, got it all out, did not have to pull the motor mount or lower engine mount or get the engine high enough for the upper tensioner bolt to come out. It wiggled out with patients.

So, I've had a minor vib that has been present since the axle swap, originally thought it might have been the other axle but it was previously replaced so I held off on buying anything until this work was done. Now that the tensioner is out, I grab a hold of the crank balancer and give it a once over, turns out it wiggles. So, found my vibration problem.

As any of you guys who have done this work know, it is such a joy to do What I want to know is, besides the crank pulley & crank seal...

what else can I tackle while I am in here at the front of the motor? (already previously swapped the cam sensor that went bad)

Timing Chain tensioner?

Oil pump/filter/cooler o-rings?

Have the 17% pulley still on the ground (Alta 15% installed & 17% is another Alta)

On a side note after working on the MINI today... "Hey, no blood!"

 

Steve,

Since you're already in there with a lot of stuff apart. You might also make sure the timing chain cover is not leaking. There's a rubber seal behind where the balancer mounts to the crank. If you take that cover off, you can also inspect the timing chain, the guides, and tensioner. I don't recall how many miles your R53 has, but since you're just a few bolts away, that's one seal that is 'right there'. I regret not doing this when we did the PRW balancer. Now I have to buy a tool just to remove the balancer to replace the timing cover seal....yeah, I'm gonna let it weep for a little longer.

Yes to oil cooler o-rings if they're leaking, but that can be done independent of the the work you are doing with the belt drive system.

 

Sounds like your pointing to the crank seal, I have that coming as well. The timing cover, is that easy enough to pull off the front of the block with it in the engine bay? If yes then I may just swap it anyway


edit: looks like it can be done from the engine bay... https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4344067

 

Crank seal for sure, but what I was referring to is the cover where the crank seal resides in.

Thread on the Timing Chain Cover on NAM.

 

Some other thingies

-Crank position sensor O-ring
-Waterpump
-Dipstick O-ring
-Oil Sump gasket
-Chain spanner
-Oil cooler O-rings
-Oil filter housing gasket

 

Yeah the timing cover... looks to be fairly easy from where I am at.

 

ATI crank pulley in hand, next need to determine if the timing chain cover should be swapped...
...

 

I didnt think of it on my Mini and went ahead with the ATI...

 

.... and deeper I go, timing chain cover appears to be seeping oil so going to change it. Ordered up the part from local store, should be in hand tomorrow.

 

Are you just replacing the timing cover gasket or the whole thing? There are 2 orings on the inside of the cover as well for the oil pump I believe.

 

replacing the gasket & assume the 2 orings are in the kit. also, to get the timing cover off, valve cover comes off or can stay on? the one video i watched did not show the top of the motor... if yes, ugh... lol i know that needs replacing as 2 of the plug seals leak.

 

timing chain tensioner... has anyone root caused this part sticking?

while i dont have any timing chain noises, i would bet the stiction eliminator i use in the ram would clean up any gunk in there and reduce the chance if failure.

 

I agree with the oil filter housing gasket/seal and oil cooler o- rings. I suggest pulling the whole oil filter housing out to do the cooler o-rings. Then do the oil filter housing seal when you reinstall it. I didn't do that on my first try and one of the o-rings had slipped out and I didn't see it. Oil everywhere on first start up. Plus, those torx head bolts can strip easily cuz of the weird angles.

 

An update... Got the pulley off, timing chain off... gasket, crank seal & o-rings swapped and re-installed. One of the o-rings was "loose" & fell out on one install attempt. Added a dab of the black silicon to the channel for the o-ring in an attempt to get it to stick while installing it. Did not see it come out of its spot but heck the cover is blocking the view. Also a nice challenge was getting the oil pump flats lined up, ended up re-installing the crank pulley bolt and rotated the motor until it slid on. Installed the 17% pulley on the SC and called it a day.

Next up will be to re-install the ATI dampner and then the tensioner & belt. Once thats done then all thats left is the engine mount and the vacuum switch. While its up I plan to do the lower engine mount since it is sitting there nice and pretty on the shelf. Cant go having parts looking pretty for too long.

 

Great work Steve. That motor will be leak free at least for a little while.

 

thanks, we will see how long that lasts lol...

 

Is the cooler a known leak spot? <- got it... same as on the ram, heat exchanger fails causing cross contamination, on the ram its with the auto trans... I had this fail on me, fixed it the right way, put a manual trans in it

 

Nice work man!

 

Got the pulley on, read the instructions then searched for others forum input... then found that I should not use power tools. That would have been good to know IN the instructions. Used my electric impact on the bolt and it went right on. But...

Now I cannot torque the crank bolt to 85 ft lbs... tried the method here https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4559910 which did not work, motor just spins. Put it in 1st gear & 6th, spins either way, I think 1st has more leverage. Tried the belt over the pulley method and it just spins. The added in the brake lever apply to the fold and again, motor just spins.


Any suggestions?

As I write this, 1st gear, axle nut plus brake apply is the next step. I am solo here with no one to help in the near future.

Sucks, finally get some time to get back out there and cant get it done. Frustrating. Hoping the alignment is right, looks good belt wise and it appears to be bottomed out. Sooo close, belt tensioner, belt and the stuff on the top side (motor mount etc) left...

 

... and nogo on the followup try.

Tempted to put on the weakest battery onto the impact driver and hit it 1x...

 

Steve,

can you jam a screwdriver in the brake rotor vanes and have it hold at top of caliper?

 

Can you c clamp the pads onto the rotor?

 

Seems like the clutch is slipping as the hub is locked with the breaker bar, I will try the screwdriver method as well as all the rest.

On the open diff trans, which side is the drive side?

 

Got it...pulled the other wheel and put screwdrivers in both rotors & gearbox in 1st, that held it enough to get it torqued down.

BIG THANKS TO YOU GUYS...!!!! Appreciate the input without a doubt!

So close I can smell the exhaust fumes already...! oh no wait, thats a neighbors car lol

 

Bravo! The finish line is in sight!

Take your time on what's left and you will be done before you know it.