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The times comes ! I'm going to be doing my head and cam this weekend but need all the tips and stuff you guys wanna give. I already have all the parts purchased so I don't need recommends on them.
the head is a tpr2 and a ns1 cam.
Do I NEED the cam locking tool ? If so anyone wanna borrow me one , ille cover shipping and tip you.
we plan on hanging up the timing chain to the hood trick so I will be 2x securing the hood open with vicegrips under both hood struts..
I'm having a mechanic help me so I'm not going at this alone but you guys are the gurus and know the tips n tricks so throw them my way please .
No, you don't "need" the Cam Lock tool, it just makes it easier, esp if you're doing the job alone.
In gear, someone on the brake, or in gear wheels on the ground, works just fine.
Last edited by BlwnAway; Sep 29, 2020 at 07:17 PM.
Confused on this... are there not TDC marks on the crank pulley and cam marks with the head? Since he is swapping the head, he has to line it all back up anyways... The process has to be the same as if it were on an engine stand...
Does the cam lock tool align the cam for #1 to be @TDC?
There is a complete two series video on the step by step by Mod Mini on YouTube.
I actually just watched it .. he makes it look easy and honestly it doesn't look as involved as id expected.. I will be taking off my sc though too to check the oil and my intake to port match it, might do the throttlebody too.
I actually just watched it .. he makes it look easy and honestly it doesn't look as involved as id expected.. I will be taking off my sc though too to check the oil and my intake to port match it, might do the throttlebody too.
Yup, remove covers, brackets, hoses and wiring runs and it's pretty basic and a lot less intimidating.
Lots of pic's, Ziploc baggies and a Sharpie and you'll be fine.
Yup, remove covers, brackets, hoses and wiring runs and it's pretty basic and a lot less intimidating.
Lots of pic's, Ziploc baggies and a Sharpie and you'll be fine.
lol just bought a roll of tape for putting labels on stuff and a box of zip locks and got the garage all ready too as far as jacks,lights and any tools I need as well as extra lighting.
Why would my valve cover have this sealant stuff underneath it like it does ? Also , is the block number sapose to match the vin ? Either I looked at the wrong numbers but they don't match my vin and the old head is in great condition and my cyl walls the cross hatching is still clearly present. I found the source too of my very seldom oil drip,it was my dipstick tube o ring , lol the engines CAKED in crud I'm gonna scrape off there now n prep everything.
the removal went very easy . Took us only 3.5 hours to get it all off n stuff. So now I'm going to port match my intake and next weekend put it back together.
that stuff on the valve cover is normal, it's for sound deadening I think, everyone has it. Any trouble getting your exhaust manifold off? I'm nervous about breaking those rusty bolts.
that stuff on the valve cover is normal, it's for sound deadening I think, everyone has it. Any trouble getting your exhaust manifold off? I'm nervous about breaking those rusty bolts.
that stuff on the valve cover is normal, it's for sound deadening I think, everyone has it. Any trouble getting your exhaust manifold off? I'm nervous about breaking those rusty bolts.
I was worried about the same thing. Spray some penetrating oil and let it sit overnight. Walk in the park pulling mine out. Easiest header swap I've ever done. I even reused my bolts they were in such good shape, just cleaned them up.
I recommend after doing this the ARP head studs and DEFINITELY the Cam Bolt. The cam bolt is single use. I know several people have reused it but it's not worth it!
o dang, I didn't know the cam bolt was one time use, I will have to order one asap..that'll be only thing i need to buy extra now..
another question , the stock headgasket that came off was a 2 layer and my new one is a 3 layer , is this ok? Also the stock exhaust manifold gasket is a thicker multi-layer semi metalic material and my new one is a thinner single piece of aluminum, is this ok also ?
ported my exhaust manifold and intake manifold and antiheat painted the sc and intake pieces then put on a chrome red with flake paint.
Only thing I had to repair that broke was a coolant Tpipe so I rigged one together. I also fixed my oil leak at my dipstick tube. I also bought some oven cleaner ( my favorite degreaser ) and cleaned up ALL the caked on oil and crud on my engine block and trans. I then cleaned up my block and prepped the top surface to get ready to put the head on
I also put new oil in the sc and inspected it, is it just me or are the rotors in it in amazing condition ? Are they the coated rotors can you tell ?
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Oct 6, 2020 at 01:56 PM.
Personally I wouldn't sweat the Cam a Bolt, I've reused mine so many times I've lost count.
Remember, just like the timing cover head bolts, those bolts don't hold pressure like Head Bolts.
Just a little blue Loctite and go down the road.
AS far as the exhaust gasket goes, I like the thicker ones but have used both with no issues.
Place them both against your two mating surfaces and use your best judgement.
I do however use Permatex Copper Gasket Spray on both my Intake (both Head and Entry) and Exhaust and gaskets every time I install them.
Unrelated to your cam and head swap, but I think you have your plugs 1 and 4 wires swapped. I was fooling around with wires and coils tonight and the coil goes from 1 to 4 starting at the front left terminal and moving counter clockwise. I'm not sure if it matters to be honest, but just a heads up.
Unrelated to your cam and head swap, but I think you have your plugs 1 and 4 wires swapped. I was fooling around with wires and coils tonight and the coil goes from 1 to 4 starting at the front left terminal and moving counter clockwise. I'm not sure if it matters to be honest, but just a heads up.
if it is my cars ran that way since I've had it
and after looking around it looks like they are , how could that be ? Wouldn't it be misfiring like hell ???? Lol it ran perfect and if they were wrong that's the order I followed because I just put them back on the way they were...
now I'm confused...lol
could it be i have a odd kinda coilpack with a different firing order on it?
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Oct 7, 2020 at 10:11 PM.
Omg your totally rite ....
can someone plzplzplz go switch their 1 and 4 wires and see if it runs correctly , mine was running PERRRRRRFECTLY FINE.. now I'm kinda concerned...I wanna put it back together correctly obv but if it was running cross wired should i reinstall it that way? I wonder if it doesn't matter much but what if I was down on power and never knew ??????? I'm so confused rite now , how could it have even been running correctly ? My coilpack is labeled like the ones in the pics too..so WTF ??????
I went and compared to pics and mine WAS FOR SURE CROSSED , PLZ SOMEONE TRY N CROSS YOURS JUST FOR A SECOND N SSE IF IT RUBS FINE PPPPPLLLLLZZZZ.
I also went over everything making sure I have all the gaskets to replace and kinda got things in order to be put back together . I also wrapped the plastic inlet pipe which was my final thing to do before reassembly
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Oct 8, 2020 at 10:08 AM.
Whats this stamp mean , any way to tell if my engine n sc are post face-lift? My sc rotors looked in amazing condition so I'm wondering if the engine was replaced with a newer model one .
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Oct 8, 2020 at 10:16 AM.
Is my motor at correct tdc I swear I read #1 piston should be at the top of its stroke, does mine look correct to you guys...now I'm nervous.
is this the timing mark and line that we're supposed to be lined up with the top of the head ??? If so I'm ****ed
looks like your 180* out. got a pic of the crank gear on the motor with the marks? Yes the #1 piston needs to be at the top of its stroke.
I thought so. My mechanic said wed be fine so I hope this is true... he said because the cam is geared and we have it all marked it should be ok ???
the side im pointing at too was facing towards the passengers side when we removed it, shouldn't it have been facing the drivers side since thats the timing mark. Atleast I've seen it in pics like that...ggggerrrrr
