R50/53 "while you're in there" list
#1
07-08-2020, 03:02 PM
"while you're in there" list
I thought I'd make a new thread for advice on the "while you're in there" items to address during a major service (for me, a clutch replacement on a new-to-me 200K 2004 R53) I'm pretty sure I'm going to add a Quaife at the same time - you know, while I'm in there.
- But since I'm new here; what is the common wisdom for items that should/could/ought to be addressed while everything is that far apart?
(OK, go)
- But since I'm new here; what is the common wisdom for items that should/could/ought to be addressed while everything is that far apart?
(OK, go)
#2
07-08-2020, 03:55 PM
ok, I've updated this with what I think (hope) is an exhaustive list of "while you are in there" parts to inspect/replace during a flywheel conversion. I'm hoping you guys can help me cull down this list, as it is going to cost me 2x the purchase price of the mini!:
(part numbers and quantities included)
Some of this stuff will be overkill; I have ZERO practical knowledge of the longevity of these parts. However, my car has 200K+ miles, needs a clutch, and has a stripped oil plug/pan - so I'm trying to take those things into account here and create a "do it once" list.
If some of this stuff is easy to service without going into front end service mode, please let me know and I'll cross it off the list.
->
(part numbers and quantities included)
Some of this stuff will be overkill; I have ZERO practical knowledge of the longevity of these parts. However, my car has 200K+ miles, needs a clutch, and has a stripped oil plug/pan - so I'm trying to take those things into account here and create a "do it once" list.
If some of this stuff is easy to service without going into front end service mode, please let me know and I'll cross it off the list.
->
12-14-1-485-845 Camshaft Sensor with O-ring 1
11-24-1-492-122 Connecting Rod Bearing, Std 44.00mm 8
13-72-1-491-737 Crankcase Vent Hose - VC to IB 1
11-12-7-829-990 Crankcase Vent Valve 1
B1184590 Crank Counter Holder Tool 1
11-23-7-525-135 Crank Pulley 1
11-23-7-829-918 Crank Bolt 1
11-11-1-485-171 Crank Seal, Front 1
11-11-1-492-244 Crank Seal, Rear 1
12-14-1-485-844 Crank Sensor with O-ring 1
ADK0041P Drive Belt Kit (includes tensioner, pulley) 1
26-1221-010 Powerflex Belt Tensioner Bushing Kit 1
83-30-0-494-252 Drive Belt tensioner Tool 1
11-11-0-147-562 Engine Gasket Set - Engine Block 1
22-11-6-778-610 Engine Mount, Front 1
22-11-6-766-753 Engine Mount Bolt 1
2169-36 Engine Oil Filter Socket 1
11-13-7-513-061 Engine Oil Pan 1
07-11-9-903-956 Engine Oil Pan Bolt 1
07-11-9-904-996 Engine Oil Pan Bolt 1
07-13-1-500-896 Engine Oil Pan Bolt 11
12-61-7-513-068 Oil Pressure Switch 1
11-14-2-463-752 Oil Pump and Timing Cover 1
11-65-1-504-943 MAP Sensor Hose 1
12-14-0-872-679 MAP Sensor (TMAP) 1
13-62-7-515-272 MAP sensor O-ring 1
11-611-173-671 Intake Manifold Gasket 1
17-51-1-524-319 Manifold to Intercooler Gasket 1
17-51-7-639-959 Intercooler Boot, Right 1
17-51-7-639-960 Intercooler Boot, Left 1
11-61-7-568-423 Supercharger cutoff valve 1
26-0874-010 Supercharger Oil 1
11-31-1-485-400 Timing Chain 1
11-31-1-485-397 Timing Chain Guide Rail 1
11-31-8-648-241 Timing Chain Tensioning Rail 1
11-31-7-510-801 Timing Chain Tensioner 1
07-10-1-485-186 Timing Cover Bolt 1
07-131-485-184 Timing Cover Bolt with Seal Ring 1
07-13-1-50-895 Timing Cover Bolt with Washer 8
11-14-1-485-162 Timing Cover Gasket 1
B118250K Timing Tool Set - Cam Alignment Set 1
11-12-1-487-178 Valve Cover Bolt with Seal 4
11-12-1-487-179 Valve Cover Bolt with Seal 8
26-5500-010 Valve Cover Gasket Set 1
51-71-7-039-760 Vehicle Lift Pad 4
12-13-7-510-738 Ignition Coil 1
12-14-1-487-246 Knock Sensor 1
12-12-7-513-032 Spark Plug Wire Set 1
26-0893-100 Ball Joint Kit, Powerflex 1
31-12-6-783-443 Ball Joint for Wheel Carrier 2
4912-3 Suspension Strut Mount Tool 1
26-7624-010 Sway Bar Bushing Set - 24mm, Powerflex 1
31-35-6-778-831 Sway Bar End Link 2
82-14-0-031-133 Coolant 1
136-698 Coolant temp Sensor 1
11-53-7-596-787 Thermostat with Gasket - 90.5 C 1
11-53-7-512-733 Thermostat Housing, aluminum 1
11-53-7-509-199 Water Hose - Pump to Pipe 1
17-12-1-475-574 Radiator Hose, Lower 1
17-12-7-515-500 Radiator Hose to Breather Tube 1
17-12-7-515-501 Breather Tube after Radiator 1
17-12-7-518-577 Water Hose from Expansion Tank, Upper 1
17-12-7-518-581 Water Hose from Expansion Tank, Lower 1
11-51-1-490-591 Water Pump (metal impeller) 1
11-51-7-509-170 Water Pump Flange w/ O-ring 1
07-13-6-800-269 Exhaust Manifold Bolt 8
11-62-1-174-968 Exhaust Manifold Gasket to Head 1
52151203 Valeo Flywheel Conversion Kit 1
23-11-7-551-719 Clutch RB Guide Sleeve 1
21-51-6-777-428 Clutch Slave Cylinder 1
21-52-6-774-078 Clutch Master Cylinder 1
35-00-6-878-304 Clutch Master Cylinder Pin 1
23-11-0-530-904 Clutch Release Arm Bushing, Upper 1
23-11-7-509-744 Clutch Release Arm Bushing, Lower 1
83-29-0-429-576 CHF 11S 1
83-22-0-403-247 Manual Transmission Fluid 1
23-11-7-518-633 Manual Trans Input Shaft Seal 1
22-31-6-754-422 Transmission Mount with Support Bracket 1
11-24-1-492-122 Connecting Rod Bearing, Std 44.00mm 8
13-72-1-491-737 Crankcase Vent Hose - VC to IB 1
11-12-7-829-990 Crankcase Vent Valve 1
B1184590 Crank Counter Holder Tool 1
11-23-7-525-135 Crank Pulley 1
11-23-7-829-918 Crank Bolt 1
11-11-1-485-171 Crank Seal, Front 1
11-11-1-492-244 Crank Seal, Rear 1
12-14-1-485-844 Crank Sensor with O-ring 1
ADK0041P Drive Belt Kit (includes tensioner, pulley) 1
26-1221-010 Powerflex Belt Tensioner Bushing Kit 1
83-30-0-494-252 Drive Belt tensioner Tool 1
11-11-0-147-562 Engine Gasket Set - Engine Block 1
22-11-6-778-610 Engine Mount, Front 1
22-11-6-766-753 Engine Mount Bolt 1
2169-36 Engine Oil Filter Socket 1
11-13-7-513-061 Engine Oil Pan 1
07-11-9-903-956 Engine Oil Pan Bolt 1
07-11-9-904-996 Engine Oil Pan Bolt 1
07-13-1-500-896 Engine Oil Pan Bolt 11
12-61-7-513-068 Oil Pressure Switch 1
11-14-2-463-752 Oil Pump and Timing Cover 1
11-65-1-504-943 MAP Sensor Hose 1
12-14-0-872-679 MAP Sensor (TMAP) 1
13-62-7-515-272 MAP sensor O-ring 1
11-611-173-671 Intake Manifold Gasket 1
17-51-1-524-319 Manifold to Intercooler Gasket 1
17-51-7-639-959 Intercooler Boot, Right 1
17-51-7-639-960 Intercooler Boot, Left 1
11-61-7-568-423 Supercharger cutoff valve 1
26-0874-010 Supercharger Oil 1
11-31-1-485-400 Timing Chain 1
11-31-1-485-397 Timing Chain Guide Rail 1
11-31-8-648-241 Timing Chain Tensioning Rail 1
11-31-7-510-801 Timing Chain Tensioner 1
07-10-1-485-186 Timing Cover Bolt 1
07-131-485-184 Timing Cover Bolt with Seal Ring 1
07-13-1-50-895 Timing Cover Bolt with Washer 8
11-14-1-485-162 Timing Cover Gasket 1
B118250K Timing Tool Set - Cam Alignment Set 1
11-12-1-487-178 Valve Cover Bolt with Seal 4
11-12-1-487-179 Valve Cover Bolt with Seal 8
26-5500-010 Valve Cover Gasket Set 1
51-71-7-039-760 Vehicle Lift Pad 4
12-13-7-510-738 Ignition Coil 1
12-14-1-487-246 Knock Sensor 1
12-12-7-513-032 Spark Plug Wire Set 1
26-0893-100 Ball Joint Kit, Powerflex 1
31-12-6-783-443 Ball Joint for Wheel Carrier 2
4912-3 Suspension Strut Mount Tool 1
26-7624-010 Sway Bar Bushing Set - 24mm, Powerflex 1
31-35-6-778-831 Sway Bar End Link 2
82-14-0-031-133 Coolant 1
136-698 Coolant temp Sensor 1
11-53-7-596-787 Thermostat with Gasket - 90.5 C 1
11-53-7-512-733 Thermostat Housing, aluminum 1
11-53-7-509-199 Water Hose - Pump to Pipe 1
17-12-1-475-574 Radiator Hose, Lower 1
17-12-7-515-500 Radiator Hose to Breather Tube 1
17-12-7-515-501 Breather Tube after Radiator 1
17-12-7-518-577 Water Hose from Expansion Tank, Upper 1
17-12-7-518-581 Water Hose from Expansion Tank, Lower 1
11-51-1-490-591 Water Pump (metal impeller) 1
11-51-7-509-170 Water Pump Flange w/ O-ring 1
07-13-6-800-269 Exhaust Manifold Bolt 8
11-62-1-174-968 Exhaust Manifold Gasket to Head 1
52151203 Valeo Flywheel Conversion Kit 1
23-11-7-551-719 Clutch RB Guide Sleeve 1
21-51-6-777-428 Clutch Slave Cylinder 1
21-52-6-774-078 Clutch Master Cylinder 1
35-00-6-878-304 Clutch Master Cylinder Pin 1
23-11-0-530-904 Clutch Release Arm Bushing, Upper 1
23-11-7-509-744 Clutch Release Arm Bushing, Lower 1
83-29-0-429-576 CHF 11S 1
83-22-0-403-247 Manual Transmission Fluid 1
23-11-7-518-633 Manual Trans Input Shaft Seal 1
22-31-6-754-422 Transmission Mount with Support Bracket 1
Last edited by eimkeith; 07-12-2020 at 01:48 PM. Reason: updating
#3
07-08-2020, 04:31 PM
Since you have 200K+ miles...
- Valve cover gasket
- Oil Cooler seals (2 needed)
- Inspect plug wires and coil.
- Clean out PCV if you haven't already (don't recall from your other thread)
- CV axles. If the boots are cracked, might as well replace.
- All the damn ball joints
- Wheel bearings? I think you said yours were okay?
- Wheel speed sensors
- O2 sensors (NTK only)
- Intercooler boots (check the marketplace for used good ones)
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eimkeith (07-08-2020)
#4
07-08-2020, 04:42 PM
Definitely replace the rear engine seal while the trans is out. I'm assuming you're already replacing the throwout bearing and guide tube when doing the clutch. You might also want to check your axle boots for cracks/leaks as well as your powering steering pump. You're going to be dropping the front subframe so it's also a good time to examine and possibly replace ball joints and bushings. Good idea also to check the power steering hoses and reservoir.
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eimkeith (07-08-2020)
#6
07-12-2020, 09:17 PM
I just did my clutch, my while you're in there list grew a little once it came apart, but it included
Clutch
Rear main seal
Quaife lsd
Guide tube, with seal and bolts
transmission input seal
transmission output seals
inner ball joints (outers had been replaced recently)
lower control arm bushings
front sway bar bushings
power steering rack bushing
crank position sensor o-ring
water pump
(change oil on super charger)
green intake gasket
radiator (it was leaking)
thermostat and housing
oil pan gasket
oil filter housing gasket
You definitely could do more depending on mileage and wear, but this was enough for me
Clutch
Rear main seal
Quaife lsd
Guide tube, with seal and bolts
transmission input seal
transmission output seals
inner ball joints (outers had been replaced recently)
lower control arm bushings
front sway bar bushings
power steering rack bushing
crank position sensor o-ring
water pump
(change oil on super charger)
green intake gasket
radiator (it was leaking)
thermostat and housing
oil pan gasket
oil filter housing gasket
You definitely could do more depending on mileage and wear, but this was enough for me
#7
07-12-2020, 10:57 PM
3rd Gear
I just did my clutch, my while you're in there list grew a little once it came apart, but it included
Clutch
Rear main seal
Quaife lsd
Guide tube, with seal and bolts
transmission input seal
transmission output seals
inner ball joints (outers had been replaced recently)
lower control arm bushings
front sway bar bushings
power steering rack bushing
crank position sensor o-ring
water pump
(change oil on super charger)
green intake gasket
radiator (it was leaking)
thermostat and housing
oil pan gasket
oil filter housing gasket
You definitely could do more depending on mileage and wear, but this was enough for me
Clutch
Rear main seal
Quaife lsd
Guide tube, with seal and bolts
transmission input seal
transmission output seals
inner ball joints (outers had been replaced recently)
lower control arm bushings
front sway bar bushings
power steering rack bushing
crank position sensor o-ring
water pump
(change oil on super charger)
green intake gasket
radiator (it was leaking)
thermostat and housing
oil pan gasket
oil filter housing gasket
You definitely could do more depending on mileage and wear, but this was enough for me
- Replace the two clutch shaft release bushings (they're plastic & they wear).
- 2 quarts of Redline MTL for the transmission (after installing the Quaife).
- Replace the coolant hoses and original hose clamps (at 200K miles), and the original-type plastic coolant tank (prone to crack & leak) with a metal one (my preference) or a new plastic one.
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eimkeith (07-13-2020)
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#10
07-13-2020, 08:43 PM
3rd Gear
- Lack of fresh oil. That's either not changing it, letting it run low, or loss of oil pressure (even momentarily). For that last item, a baffled pickup is a good "while I'm in there" candidate if you are getting serious on a track or running race tires for autocross. It's easily replaced since the OP is already changing the pan gasket.
- Detonation. Most common cause is a bad tune, with far too much ignition advance for the fuel being used, though a failed knock-sensor (and not paying attention to the check-engine light that triggers) can do it too.
Last edited by Mini_Crazy; 07-13-2020 at 09:14 PM.
#11
07-14-2020, 06:54 AM
How would I verify the condition without pulling a bearing for inspection?
I bought this car with 200K miles on it and the oil was low - no telling how many times that has been the case before now... It was also 4500 miles past the service interval.
The R53 boasts a quite stout engine, and replacing rod bearings as preventative maintenance is not necessary. If the rod bearings have enough wear to be replaced, the rest of the engine is likely due for a major overhaul also. Here are the two most common ways to damage rod bearings in the R53:
- Lack of fresh oil. That's either not changing it, letting it run low, or loss of oil pressure (even momentarily). For that last item, a baffled pickup is a good "while I'm in there" candidate if you are getting serious on a track or running race tires for autocross. It's easily replaced since the OP is already changing the pan gasket.
- Detonation. Most common cause is a bad tune, with far too much ignition advance for the fuel being used, though a failed knock-sensor (and not paying attention to the check-engine light that triggers) can do it too.
#12
07-14-2020, 08:48 PM
Re the clutch/trans work, I did use MTL in my tranny, it shifts super smooth, and I have no complaints. I've had MTL in it for 40k miles. I kind of toyed with the idea of using redline shockproof, but by the time I'd heard of it, I already had the MTL in my hands, so it wasn't worth returning it.
Also, I don't know which clutch you're thinking of going with, but I have the exedy smf conversion kit and I'm pretty happy with it. There is noticeably increased throttle response with the lighter flywheel and the shifting is effortless. I'm not super wild about how light the pedal is, and I feel like it's a little hard to get a feel for the clutch engagement, but I only have 1,300 miles on the clutch so it might just be that I haven't gotten enough time on it yet.
#13
07-14-2020, 09:41 PM
3rd Gear
. I had thought you were focused on a clutch-job, a Quaife, and "while I'm in there".In my mind with the new info, your pulling the rod bearings isn't about replacing them as preventive maintenance. It's more like a go vs. no-gauge: either the bearings are good and you put them back together, or they show significant wear or scoring that says you should be thinking hard about a rebuilt engine. Adequate oil pressure will usually indicate that the bearings are OK, with most performance engines wanting a minimum of 10PSI per 1000 RPM fully warmed up with 15W-40 oil. (If bearing clearances are sloppy, the pump will have trouble maintaining pressure.)
NOTE: If you pull the rod bearing shells, do replace with new bolts. Torque spec is 20Nm +90 degrees for stock bolts. ARP is different.
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eimkeith (07-15-2020)
#14
07-15-2020, 08:59 AM
In my mind with the new info, your pulling the rod bearings isn't about replacing them as preventive maintenance. It's more like a go vs. no-gauge: either the bearings are good and you put them back together, or they show significant wear or scoring that says you should be thinking hard about a rebuilt engine. Adequate oil pressure will usually indicate that the bearings are OK, with most performance engines wanting a minimum of 10PSI per 1000 RPM fully warmed up with 15W-40 oil. (If bearing clearances are sloppy, the pump will have trouble maintaining pressure.)
NOTE: If you pull the rod bearing shells, do replace with new bolts. Torque spec is 20Nm +90 degrees for stock bolts. ARP is different.
NOTE: If you pull the rod bearing shells, do replace with new bolts. Torque spec is 20Nm +90 degrees for stock bolts. ARP is different.
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