wanted to thank all who have taken the time to post their experiences changing the mini coopers lower control arm bushings. i just completed doing mine on my 05 MCS cab today

i did it with out moving the sub frame in 3 hours including doing the lower control arm bushings (power flex), sway bar end links and outer tie rod ends. Used the sawzall method and home made bushing installer (all thread and washers, not the $250 mini/bmw tool)

i would say if you don't have a reason to drop the subframe for other repairs, service the bushing on the car with out pulling/droping subframe, and leave dog bones in car

I was quoted $4500, $900, $550, and $400, the $4500 guy said since have to pull the sub frame and while in there might as well do clutch, flywheel, slave and masters, PS hoses, fan and pump, ball joints, oil filter housing gasket, sway bar bushings and end links, tie rod ends, motor mounts and a few other parts. other three bids were just the bushing labor plus parts (the shops said have to drop subframe, even though they have the tool to do in car, that it didn't work).

i figured fix what's known to be broken if can do it fairly easily. Drives much nicer, reduced clunks and alignment shop said everything right on and no charge

total cost $156.43

 

How was separating the inner ball joints? My bushings are shot, I plan on doing the clutch in a few months but would rather not have to live with bad bushings for a few months if I don’t have to.

 

both the inner and outer all ball joints came off pretty easy. hit the control arm a few times with a healthy hammer and outer ones popped off. harder to get a good spot to hit the inners with hammer so used impact hammer and they came off easy. I don't like to use forks on ball joints as often damages the rubber. but the hammer on the side trick works well and it does on tie rod ends too

 

If you are planning on doing the clutch do the bushings at the same time as it will be so easy with the subframe out.

 

WMW i agree
but if only doing lower control arm bushings and installing power flex type bushings, sawzall method saves some time i think. you
could also do outer ball joints too i think as they are off the control arm and can be un bolted from the strut. inner ball joints may not come out cause i think one of the bolts hits frame.
could also do front sway bar bushings too i think by taking one bolt out and loosening other one and turning bracket sideways

 

yeah, it definitely makes sense to do them then, and I do plan to do the sway bar and steering rack bushings then, but I won't be able to get the clutch done for a few months, and the play from the bushings is driving me nuts, so It'd be nice to be able to knock them out quickly, if I can.

 

racingguy i understand, if u have a two post lift it is pretty easy. i think the lift allows you to get better leverage where needed and apply force easier and see better
in my town there is a do it your self garage that u can rent the hoist and tools, if u have one, rent it for a few hours and take a friend for help to get it done faster. but with the new CV19 problems may just want to wait till clutch. mine doesn't need one yet so glad i did it the way i did