I'm going to be replacing the control arm bushings on my mini.

Since a lot of stuff gets taken apart, what else should I replace down there? I heard ball joints aren't a bad idea.

It's a 2003 S and I just broke 100K miles on her.

Also, any tips or hints to make the job a bit easier? Found this for dropping the sub frame: http://www.minicooperspeed.com/mini-...-r50-r53remov/

And I will have access to a lift.

Thanks in advance!

 

Sway bar bushings are the same nuts.

 

By that many miles there are a lot of suspension parts that get worn out.

Check engine mounts and all suspension bushings front and back.

Stock bushings are not as stiff and polyurethane but offer a less jarring ride for street use.

If you have not done an alignment in 8+ months then that might be good to get done once all the work is done.

Did you replace your clutch yet?

 

Was gonna do all of this with my buddy (He has a lift). Looks like we may have bit off a little more than we can chew... Gonna look into getting a bunch of this stuff done somewhere.

We got it on the lift and the tire rods are definitely bad. I got a quote for just the bushings at the dealer for around 700...

Clutch still feels great. Everyone who takes her for a spin comments on it. Anything I should watch out for?

 

I would suggest replacing the ball joints along with the LCA bushings.
Here is a complete kit:
http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerfl...ll-joints.html

 

Have you done the control arm bushings before? Is it really as difficult as it looks?

I like that kit you have there and want to get it all done. Mini just quoted me $1300 just for the control arm bushing and tirerods.

From what I've read, you need to take the lower the subframe; take the bumper off; do a bunch of stuff. Is this all true?

Any helpful hints would be great.

 

I have the same problem with my 03 S. She needs new front control arm bushings, strut mounts, oil pan and valve cover gaskets, brakes and exhaust. Cars just fall apart after 100k.

 

Honestly, I had the powerflex bushings in new housings and oem sway bar bushings in my garage for months waiting to be installed, I was just worried about the job, but if you follow the walkthrough, it really isn't that bad, but it IS time consuming. I did it on the floor in my garage, took my time, took off the front bumper, fender wells, and dropped the subframe. I did only the control arm bushings though. My car has 58k and I wish I had done ball joints too, but I can get to those later without dropping the whole thing again. big things to look for, make sure you keep track of the power steering res. so it doesn't get snagged, and make sure you remove the pinch bolt from the steering rack and move it completely out of the way so you don't pull the rubber grommet out of the firewall.

This is a great time to check your powersteering hoses for leaks too, since they tend to crack and leak, would be super easy to replace while subframe is out. If you can afford it, do the ball joints too, one of the guides from k-huevo has a tool you can buy for like $18 to pop ball joints and tie rod ends out, works wonders!

The entire job took me about 7 hours, but if I had to do it again, I could probably do it in 3-4.

 

I think i have to replace my right bushing. when my car was lifted, my passenger side wheel was a little "loose". How difficult was this to do?

 

For others reading (kinda old thread), replacing the control arm bushings is not terribly complicated, but unfortunately the subframe has to be dropped: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

-Jorge

 

@PelicanParts - Great article and thanks for sharing.

 

I agree!! I replaced my LCA bushings, and swaybar bushings, upper shock mounts, and installed Koni LSD shocks a few months ago. The one thing I didn't do....replace all the ball joints.

Well...guess what's starting to make noise now? Ball joints.....I wish I would have replaced them when I had the front sub frame out.

Also, check the power steering hoses like the other guys have said.

 

now would also be a good opportunity to replace the power steering intake and return lines if they are leaking

 

anyone done this?

 

If I didn't already have the kit from http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerfl...ll-joints.html I would do it that way just to get rid of the rattle.
I have done the long version of dropping the sub frame.. I installed the ALTA bushings, they rattle after awhile but other than that I was initially very pleased with them.
It's time (131,300 miles) to refresh everything so in the spring, it's all new bushings.
Yes it's a lot of work but it saves me a lot of money.

 

Yes, I did. No, you don't have to drop the sub-frame. No, you don't need to go into "service mode" (pulling the bumper cover). After watching the above video, I figured, why not? I didn't use a torch, tho...just a $20 Sawsall from Harbor Freight. Popped the control arms off the ball joints with a "pickle fork", removed the control arms and reamed out the bushings with the Sawsall. (Not a fun job laying on your back on the garage floor). Replaced the bushings with polyurethane ones using a "tool" I rigged like the one in the video. I used large, thick washers on threaded rod.
Installing the inner ball joints was made easier by a tip I learned from a fellow NAM member who told me to remove the front hubs, thereby allowing the half-shafts to be raised up so you can access the ball joint mounting bolts.
All in all, this was much easier than I expected....and much less expensive!

 

Has anyone tried this tool to remove the contol arm bushings while it is still on the vehicle?

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Cooper-Lo.../dp/B008DPVWBA

 

Sub frame doesn't have to do come out. The on car tool the dealership uses works fine
if u can get your hands on it........ Good Luck

 

I guess you could rationalize buying that tool if you were going to do a bunch of them...or re-sell it after you got through using it.

 

Use stock OEM bushings only!

 

I will agree with this post unless you in the repair line. I did my with out total removal and was not easy, fasteners were tight and difficult to get to. I would recommend to buy the OEM bushing complete with the brackets.

 

This is a great thread. I'm in the process of compiling parts to knock this job out in the spring (or at least until it gets a little warmer). I'm at 192k on the original LCA bushings so I'm planning on replacing a lot while I'm in there. LCA, ball joints, tie-rod ends, sway bar bushings, Koni's, springs?, PS lines and oil pan gasket.

Thanks for the heads up!

 

Why would you want to do that, when there are much better bushings that last longer?

 

x2 I was doing the powerflex. Didn't see the point in replacing them with something that will wear out again in 2 years, unless you don't feel like hacking apart the brackets.

 

I went with the Powerflex bushings......they work great! I would never put the crummy stock bushings back in there.....ever.