My LCA's are shot.
Did a search on this job and most upgrade to urethane bushings are try to R&R the bushing itself.
However, I wanted to go with the bushing/bracket assembly.
Wanted to know if I went that route if all I need to do is unbolt the bracket, pull off the old assembly and press in the new bracket/bushing?
Thanks!

 

Okay, did a bit more investigating and apparently it's not that easy. :(
Is there a way to remove the bushing/bracket without going having to lower the subframe?

 

The short answer is yes, but it's faster to remove the sub frame.


I've seen one video that pops them out with a torch and an air chisel but pretty much nobody on here can reproduce that. The other option is to cut out the old bushings with a sawsall but most people struggle with that too. It's also hard to get the bushings pressed in straight with all thread

The one option that I haven't looked into too much is lowering just the back of the sub frame enough to get to the bolts. I think it has merit but I'm not sure.

I'm going to need new LCA bushings soon and as much as I don't want to, I think I'm going to drop the sub frame. The upside of lowering the sub frame is you can change the inner ball joints, sway bar bushings and in my case the steering bushing.

Pelican has a good DIY for lowering the sub frame and replacing ball joints and LCA bushings.

 

Mini just amazes me with it's amazingly well thought out design! NOT!
I wonder if it'll be easier to change out the control arm and press out the bushing?
I just want to avoid dropping that subframe!!!

 

Let me know if this makes any sense.
Remove control arm, change out both ball joints (bolt and unbolt each one?) and then R&R bushing?
And resuse control arm itself?

 

Did mine when I did the clutch so my subframe had to come off so I cant comment on the best way to do it.

I do know the sawzall method works really good so I'm not sure how that would be hard for anyone. Watch the mod mini video for reference, takes about 30 seconds to get them out.

Putting the new ones on isnt so easy though. I did a homemade press like mod minis that worked but can't be very fun doing on the car

 

It's not that hard to drop the subframe as you can unhook the steering shaft, p/s tank and all the bolts and pull it down enough to get the brackets off. That is how we do it in our shop.
And if you want to take it out completely you need to pull the front bumper and unbolt the control arms, not hard just a little time. Trying to pull the bushings in the car is hard even with the tool as I've done that and just went back to dropping the subframe.
Go with the powerflex bushings as you won't ever need to replace them and they are easier to go back in.

 

I cut them out with a sawsall. Granted I had the car in the air and was able to position myself appropriately. It will probably be slightly more difficult to do it on your back with the car on stands but I can't imagine much more difficult. Yes as commented above - the makeshift press you're going to use will take some patience. I had a difficult time finding something of the right diameter to use but once you figure it out - it'll click.

 

Actually, the press I plan on using is made specifically for this bushing. Hopefully it'll help make things easier.

 

+1 We have a great guide that can help you with the process. Powerflex is a great investment for bushings for your MINI as they help prolong tire life, improve performance, give you better handling and they are more cost-effective than OEM bushings.

 

+10000 for sawsall.

If you take the brakets off, you have to remove the subframe... Otherwise you won't be able to torque the bolts back on properly.


I bought the OEM tools to do the job. With the sawsall, it goes much easier

 

So you don't remove the subframe completely? I like this idea but I have 2 questions, one do you unhook the p/s lines? or just unhook the tank from the firewall? and 2 is it possible to change the inner ball joints on the lower control arm doing it this way?

 

You don't need to remove the subframe to change the ball joints. I'm not sure what the steering bushings are that you're referring to though. The only old rubber on the front of my car now is the sway bar bushings. I'm a little annoyed but they'll come out in due time I'm sure. Especially if they're the reason for the slight noise I'm hearing.

 

You don't touch the power steering lines. The reservoir just unbolts from the firewal

 

Everyone, thanks for all the info and advice.
But I really just wanted to know if I can sneak past the subframe and just remove the control arm and in the process replace all the ball joints?
Isn't this WAY faster and easier than having to go another step and either drop the subframe completely or even lower it?
I really want to keep this job as simple as possible, especially if I'm going to be on my back and not using a rack.

 

As many have said, it's much faster to just drop the subframe to get the control arm bushings replaced. It's not even that bad of a job. I was doing my clutch and the subframe tool no time at all compared to the rest of the work.

But is it a pain? Yes. I was also on my back with very little clearance. I used Pelican's guide and Mod Mini's videos on YouTube.

 

Unless you have the special tool, the best way is to lower the subframe.

 

It's also the prime time to update the front anti swaybar bushings to urethane.

 

sorry, I've got a bad steering rack mounting bushing that squeaks sometimes when using alot of steering lock at low speed, it's annoying but not worth dropping the sub frame just for that.

 

As a die-hard do-it-yourselfer I too watched the videos and read most of the forums on this topic. I began to remove and replace the control arm bushing assemblies myself. Within a few minutes of unbolting one control arm, I looked at the sub-frame assembly and considered the tight quarters and the weight of the the engine/transmission should something not go right. I came to the realization this is a repair for someone with all the right tools, jacks/hoists and experience. I took my R53 to my local Les Schwab tire store. It took them about 3 hours. I they replaced both control arms bracket assemblies (new oem parts) and completed four wheel alignment all for $380 with a year parts/labor warranty. Money well worth the expense and peace of mind.

 

An honest shop with good prices is a very good thing to have

 

Wow, I'd pay $380 for someone else to do it any day and twice on sunday! did you provide the parts? or did they?

 

Racingguy04,

LST used their parts and I paid them full retail for the parts/labor. I did originally offer to supply my own OEM brackets from my store (ETAParts) inventory, however LST refused to use them because they couldn't warranty the parts/labor.