Hi everyone,

I've got a 2005 R53 that came with 2 keys. The keyless entry feature on both keys was not working when I bought the car so I assumed it was likely the key batteries. But one day both keys keyless entry began working for a couple days, and then stopped again.

So because both started working at the same time I know it's not the keys, but likely an issue with the antenna or some module in the car. All the previous threads I've read have mostly been issues with keys and not the car.

Does anyone have any tips of next steps for me to diagnose? Only reason I'd like to fix this is because the car sadly only has one point for me to physically put a key in, and I don't want to break it and be locked out of the car.

Thanks!

 

In the rear view mirror, is the transmitter/receiver for the key fob. They are a common failure point on gen 1's. Sometimes they can be repaired with cleaning and soldering the ic contacts back on. If not get a new or used one, to replace it.
Here is a thread to look at: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...in-mirror.html
Keep us posted!

 

Can test if your keyfob is OK , no special tools,just a TV.
https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x4jhnwn

 

Thanks! I've removed my rear view mirror but want to make sure I don't break it in the process of getting access to the receiver inside of it. I'll do a bit more reading on the best way to pull the mirror apart.

 

So I was able to get the rear view mirror off the car and pulled it apart to clean the receiver. My receiver had some heavy corrosion on it and was definitely causing an issue with connections. I just wanted to document a few steps for doing this for anyone looking for a solution to their keyless entry if they know the key batteries are fine. After doing this my keyless entry works as it should with both keys

1. Remove the rear view mirror from the car by twisting the base of the mirror (the black plastic covered area) clockwise (if looking at it as if you are driving the car). The mirror should detach from the base.

2. Gently remove the black plastic cover at the base of the now dangling rear view mirror to reveal an electrical connector. Disconnect the electrical connector.




3. At this point you should be able to take the mirror to a more suitable area for taking it apart. If you have a mirror like mine (2005 R53 without auto dimming and without homelink) it should have a plastic ring that will pry away from the rest of the mirror. I used a plastic trim remover tool to gently pry the ring out enough to remove the actual glass mirror from the entire housing. Be patient and take your time here, you do not want to break one of the plastic clips that holds this ring in place.

Once you remove the glass mirror you will be greeted with this:


4. At this point you can gently pry up on the receiver circuit board (the only circuit board in my mirror) and swing it out just enough to have access to the terminals on the board. Sorry for the out of focus picture, but you can see the corrosion present on my circuit board here.



5. To clean this, I ended up spraying small amounts of WD40 on the corrosion and using a plastic brush (like a tooth brush) to scrub away all the corrosion. Then I sprayed the entire circuit board down with electrical cleaner (I got mine from my local Walmart). The bottle says it helps to clean the board and keep corrosion away so hopefully it works as advertised! I would make sure you get all the WD40 off with the electrical cleaner since WD40 may conduct electricity and causes issues on the circuit board. Whatever you end up using to clean the corrosion off, follow up with electrical cleaner that is safe for circuit boards.

6. After cleaning, I let the entire mirror dry in the sun for a few minutes. Then I plugged it into the car to test. I had to perform the key pairing process I found here for both my keys:
https://new.minimania.com/Reprogram_...Keys_R50_52_53

After this pairing, my keyless entry began working again!

7. Put everything back together the way it came out and enjoy your functioning keyless entry!

Let me know if there are any questions!

 

Great! I had a write up, but could not find it, so I am glad you did it. I know it will help many, after they know to look there! Like I said, it is a common issue.
Thanks for the write up!

 

My keyless entry does not work on my '06 R52......I'm suspecting that this may be my problem as well.......

thanks for the write up

Bryan

 

No problem. This job really should take about 30-45 minutes depending on your comfort level. My keyless entry is still working!

 

This thread needs a big boost, possibly pin it to the DIY/common issues page?

Fixed my weak remote signal! Thanks, tej!

 

I fixed mine as well. [thanks again Tej!]
There was no visible corrosion but I sprayed the heck out of it with contact cleaner and pushed the plug on and off a few times. I'm not sure which did the trick, but even if there's no visible corrosion, clean it anyway. [My gut feeling is pulling the plug on and off a few times is what did it]
Now it will lock from 15' away.

But it doesn't unlock!
Hit the button to unlock and the car beeps twice and the lights flash twice but the locks don't move. Hit the button for the hatch and the taillights flash once but the hatch doesn't unlock.

Any ideas?
rob

 

Yep. I know zactly what it is. Lectrical Gremlin. Every one of these cars has at least one of them. Mine is in the garage door opener. I programmed 2 of the buttons to each open a different door. Worked great for a day or two, then one button started opening both doors at the same time. Fiddled with programming and reprogramming. Finally cleared everything, then only programmed one button to one door. Remote said "screw it, I'm gonna open both doors anyway, even though I don't know the code for the other one." I've had homelink systems in at least 4 other cars, and never had this problem. Cuz my other cars don't have a Gremlin.

I can offer no practical advice on finding the little bugger.

 

Hmm that’s interesting. Are you able to unlock the doors/hatch using the unlock button inside the car? That is definitely an interesting problem...

 

Great info from tej98, thanks! My remote is working, but my rear view mirror vibrates while driving making the view a bit blurry, but those instructions give me a bit more confidence to take the thing apart and see if there's something to be done about it.

Also good to know that there's a third way to use WD-40, in addition to cleaning exhaust tips and toilets.

BTW, if anyone is wondering if the battery in the key is dead... on the facelift (three button) key the battery is rechargeable, and actually charges while driving. It can of course fail too, but more often it just needs charging, i.e. a longer drive. Some have succesfully charged it with an electric toothbrush charger too.

 

Hmm that’s interesting. Are you able to unlock the doors/hatch using the unlock button inside the car? That is definitely an interesting problem...

Tej,
No, that doesn't work either. When I lock with the center Mini button everything locks. The lights flash and it makes all the right noises.

When I press the unlock button, the lights flash and all the locks make a noise just like they are opening, like a loud definite noise, but the lock buttons don't move and the doors remain locked.

I'm stumped.

rob

 

Sorry I meant to say using the central unlocking switch on the switch panel in front of the shifter. It should be between the two window switches on the switch panel. Does that switch unlock the doors properly?

 

No, that doesn't work either. I did realize that I can press the unlock button and there's a faint noise from the hatch and I can then open that with the button above the license tag.

So at least that's something...

rob

 

Hmm alright I’m not sure but maybe I guess the lock actuators could need some investigating but both at once seems a bit odd...

 

Great thread and I will pull the mirror to check it but my situation is a little different, strange.
My R52 convertible was in storage in a garage on a battery tender - I disconnected the tender and closed the hood. When the hood closed, the exterior lights flashed once and the doors locked. Neither remote works now. The car still functions normally using the key in the door lock.
Anybody come up against this?
Thanks!

 

How long was your car on the tender... maybe the batteries in the keys are dead from sitting too long?

The facelift key used a rechargeable battery that charges by induction while driving. Going for a long drive get your key(s) working again. I would also check with member Valvashon who started a side business for MINI keys. He might know of an alternative way to charge the key, some other things to try, and what he charges to replace the batteries.

 

Thanks! That's an interesting problem. Try driving around since newer models (05-06 I believe) charge the keys when they are in the ignition. If that doesn't work, you can try the pairing process as well: https://new.minimania.com/Reprogram_...Keys_R50_52_53

 

Thanks for this. Mine was just that the connector had vibrated loose, so occasionally it would work, and then it wouldn’t. Dropped mirror, pushed and pulled connector and got it correctly seated and then all the way in, and all is well again.

 

This worked for me, thank you!
I brushed my board with a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol, reinstalled, it's working great.

​​​​On another note, I may have somehow broken my second key fob soldering the battery because I still can't get that one to work...
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