R50/53 What ELSE should I do while replacing clutch?
#1
What ELSE should I do while replacing clutch?
Hi everyone!
I am going to embark on a clutch replacement, maybe this weekend and am wondering what else you would recommend while she is torn all apart. It is a 2006 R53 with 100k on the clock. I drive it like I stole it, and maintain it as well as possible. Aside from the obvious SC oil change, what else would you all recommend? I have new crank pulley, belt, tensioner, supercharger pulley, and timing chain tensioner (the one on the firewall side of the motor).
I'd love to hear what gaskets and parts I should do while in front end service mode! Or steer me to a thread.
I am going to embark on a clutch replacement, maybe this weekend and am wondering what else you would recommend while she is torn all apart. It is a 2006 R53 with 100k on the clock. I drive it like I stole it, and maintain it as well as possible. Aside from the obvious SC oil change, what else would you all recommend? I have new crank pulley, belt, tensioner, supercharger pulley, and timing chain tensioner (the one on the firewall side of the motor).
I'd love to hear what gaskets and parts I should do while in front end service mode! Or steer me to a thread.
#3
I would do the rear main seal and the power steering hoses to the reservoir. I would also get the oil filter adapter gasket as it has to come out to get to the starter (at least on my R50 it does!) . I would also put the car on ramps now, before you are ready to start and give the car a good visual check. Do you have anything that looks bad? Any failing CV axle boots or steering rack boots? Also, get a new O ring for the crank angle sensor as they leak badly and look like a pan gasket leak. Speaking of it, a pan gasket is only like $20 on line, so you might as well get one in case it's needed. Another must do is clean the PS cooling fan. I just did all of it and rebuilt my trans while I was in there ( I also did front struts, bump stops, strut mounts, one motor mount, a ball joint and a 4 wheel brake job too). Count on not having the car to drive for at least a week. Oh, and get a helper to help put the trans back in! It is not flat on the bottom and has no pilot on the input shaft and can be a real pain to do by yourself. BTW, you should also set aside enough cash to buy a new dual mass flywheel if you intend on keeping that system. They run around $500 and cannot be resurfaced if it is badly scarred.
#4
#7
BTW, Valeo is an OEM supplier to many manufacturers, including MINI. High performance parts are but a small part of their business as a parts manufacturer for multiple OEMs.
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#8
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For sure I would do some powerflex control arm bushings since the subframe will be out
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...shing-kit.html
and sway bar bushings
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...-bushings.html
and yes I'd do the rear main seal, guide tube, and fork bushings
https://www.waymotorworks.com/02-06-...-transmission/
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...shing-kit.html
and sway bar bushings
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...-bushings.html
and yes I'd do the rear main seal, guide tube, and fork bushings
https://www.waymotorworks.com/02-06-...-transmission/
#10
I switched to the Valeo clutch kit last year, and overall have been happy with it. Engagement is overall smoother, and clutch pedal feel is lighter as well. I've heard many folks around here, and on YT who have used them, both for stock, and modified cars, and haven't had many issues. The only asterisk I'd put though is longevity in that my OEM clutch lasted 162k miles before I replaced it. I don't know if the Valeo clutch can last as long as OEM, but time will tell.
One thing that did take a little bit to get used to was the slightly lighter flywheel (also a single mass), which has made rev-matching just a little bit easier, so that was a plus for me.
One thing that did take a little bit to get used to was the slightly lighter flywheel (also a single mass), which has made rev-matching just a little bit easier, so that was a plus for me.
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