So far I have planned:

- Fill/check supercharger PTO gear drive
- Water pump gasket (for re mounting water pump after servicing s/c)
- Coolant flush
- Crank position sensor gasket (maybe replace the whole thing )
- Transmission input shaft seal
- Crankshaft rear main seal
- Transmission driveshaft seals
- Driver side driveshaft circlip
- Clutch slave cylinder
- Limited slip differential

I will be dropping the subframe to get the transmission out. Is there anything else that I should be doing while disassembled? Thanks in advance!

 

That crank sensor o-ring is odd, it seemed flattened and not a normal o-ring. I just used anaerobic sealant on the old oneI had lying around and that seemed to work. So you need the mini part if you want an o-ring.

You can get that green seal for the plastic intake tube and a new tube as they can melt.

The anaerobic sealant mentions a prep spray that was expensive, but I ran out and got some since I figured I didn't want to do it again.

I wouldn't touch the seals if they look good since new doesn't always mean no leaks.

You can get the throw out bearing guide tube since it sounds like it is coming off. I had one but didn't use it since it looked good.

LCA bushings and sway bar bushings are right there, so you might as well.

Redline MTL

You should do an oil change if it's time as that is simple without a subframe.

If you are going to change the trans mount, now is the time.

 

Duly noted. I've done the LCA bushings before (and threw some Powerflex ones in there for good measure), but didn't see any purpose in replacing the OEM swaybar bushings. They looked okay to me, anyway.

The green seal you mentioned, I imagine, is for the tube connecting the throttle body to the S/C inlet? Sounds like a common boost leak spot (especially suspect since I've been throwing P0108 codes since it got cold ).

I forgot to mention the TOB guide tube, I ordered one of those as well, since the Haynes book called for it.

The reason I ordered seals was because I seem to be weeping (motor?) oil from the transmission bellhousing.

I put in Royal Purple 75W140 in the transmission last oil change, but I was thinking I'd spring for Redline Lightweight Shockproof instead of MTL. I run MT90 in the transmission and Shockproof in the transfer case in my Talon AWD and love it. I suppose I'll do some research around here to see which is best ...

Would you recommend a specific sealant for the crank position sensor?

Oh, next question: Should I do anything to the power steering system while I have the subframe off?

Thanks!

 

I used the anaerobic stuff you need to seal the trans case. I think it worked.

According to Dave at redline, the MTL is what you should use, though you could go to the next thicker one (I forget if it is 80 or 85 or 90) if you have a LSD with perhaps a little tougher shift when cold.

Royal purple has really bad shear numbers and unless you race and change the oil every race day, you should consider another oil. Amsoil, mobil 1, etc.

 

[quote]The green seal you mentioned, I imagine, is for the tube connecting the throttle body to the S/C inlet? Sounds like a common boost leak spot (especially suspect since I've been throwing P0108 codes since it got cold )[\quote]

That is on the unboosted side of the supercharger. The only thing you will ever get from that is a vacuum leak, which is very common as you suggest. When I pulled that off of mine that gasket was shot.